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Old 10-01-2012, 10:50 AM   #1
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Rock Krawler Quick Disconnects make clunking noise.

Why on earth are the Rock Krawler's screw/s (bolt/s) that holds the RK quick disconnects threaded all the way through???.

Those bolts are far from perfect fit making My JK clunk every bounce!!

I can stand beside and bounce my JK and hear that annoying clunk sound coming from Quick Disconnects.


I have removed the bolts and they are threaded all the way!!!!
I haven't take picture of if, but its just a regular screw.

Shouldn't it look like or similar to the one on this picture???
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:00 AM   #2
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those are JKS QD holders. Mine would clunk if the nut wasn't tight. no reason for it to be threaded all the way through.

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Old 10-01-2012, 11:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
those are JKS QD holders. Mine would clunk if the nut wasn't tight. no reason for it to be threaded all the way through.
this picture is of bolt from another manufacturer. The ones that I have that came with RK lift are threaded all the way making the clunking noise because of the thread and its not good fit.

ant i have a safety pin there (NOT nut) as they are quick discos.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:36 AM   #4
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here are few pictures of what my Quick Discos bolts look like:
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:02 PM   #5
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Pete, if you remember the kit came with nuts for the bolts also. I suggest you use the nuts and whenever you plan on going off road I would take the nuts off and use the pin.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:40 PM   #6
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Pete, if you remember the kit came with nuts for the bolts also. I suggest you use the nuts and whenever you plan on going off road I would take the nuts off and use the pin.

Hey Lou,

I understand that. My concern is why the bolt where the quick disconnect slides on is threaded?? why not of a solid rod and then at the end threaded if nut is proffered??

Because of that, the quick disconnect slides on a threaded surface and that makes that clunk noise.

See the first picture when a guy applies a blue locklite and the nicely polished surface for the quick disconnect to slide on and then my pictures of what I have with RK.

--- adding the two pictures again for comparison:
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:50 PM   #7
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This is what i would expect it to look like or with some thread at the end for nut application. However NOT threaded where the Quick Disconnect sleeve slides.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #8
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i get what your saying. thats just how rk does things. perhaps why their $50 cheaper.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #9
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So there is slop In the joint itself ?
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
i get what your saying. thats just how rk does things. perhaps why their $50 cheaper.

Fair enough.
Now, since this is so annoying (at least for me), is there a replacement screw/bolt that would work with RK quick disconnect sleeve and not being threaded.

I have tried looking at Home Depot and did not find exact fit. Any metal/milling shop would be able to do it, but no one I know.
Is there a aftermarket–aftermarket replacement for this??
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki

Fair enough.
Now, since this is so annoying (at least for me), is there a replacement screw/bolt that would work with RK quick disconnect sleeve and not being threaded.

I have tried looking at Home Depot and did not find exact fit. Any metal/milling shop would be able to do it, but no one I know.
Is there a aftermarket–aftermarket replacement for this??
Measure the joint itself and start comparing. Even a bigger bolt can be easily machined down to size.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:08 PM   #12
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Did some one say machined?? Lol
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
i get what your saying. thats just how rk does things. perhaps why their $50 cheaper.


Mine is a regular bolt threaded all the way through. When quick Disconnect sleeve slides on the threaded surface, you cannot expect a good fit. The bolt supplied and the Quick Disconnect feels like they are NOT for each other. Its not a tight fit. Even if i would use nut instead of safety pin to tighten it up it would still clunk as the thread and machined polished surface are not for each other.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfdjason7620
Did some one say machined?? Lol
Dude .... I almost dropped your name
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:19 PM   #15
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Lol!!
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfdjason7620
Lol!!
Well that worked rofl
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:57 AM   #17
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I think i will upgrade to JKS Quick Discos. I have exchanged several emails with JKS support Team and was told these will make NO sound!!!
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16160_10X_PG.htm

I still don’t understand why RK would use a fully threaded bolt to slide inside the QD sleeve!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:41 AM   #18
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Pete, why not just bolt up the links with the nut provided and then remove the nut when you plan on off-roading? I think any quick disconnect link will have the potential for a clunking noise.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Pete, why not just bolt up the links with the nut provided and then remove the nut when you plan on off-roading? I think any quick disconnect link will have the potential for a clunking noise.

Hey Lou,

I haven’t tried that, but even if I tighten it up with a nut the fact remains the same that the QD sleeve would still stay on threaded surface. Not only this, the QD sleeve and the threaded bolt are not the same size. Even when tightly secured by nut, it would still move up and down, however you are probably right that the clunking noise would go away or mostly go away.

Now, from another approach, few months/years down the road don’t you think that the threaded surface will slowly damage the quick disconnect sleeve??
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

Measure the joint itself and start comparing. Even a bigger bolt can be easily machined down to size.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kfdjason7620
Did some one say machined?? Lol
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:03 AM   #21
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How should i understand this??? Are you suggesting kfdjason7620 could make me two of these bolts to my specs??

if so, what would it cost, since the set of QD JKS cost roughly $100.00
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki

How should i understand this??? Are you suggesting kfdjason7620 could make me two of these bolts to my specs??

if so, what would it cost, since the set of QD JKS cost roughly $100.00
Jason's the man.... He makes those key racks in his avatar (mine BTW )
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:54 AM   #23
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Pete, is yours moving up and down or side to side? If it is the side to side (which I doubt) the nut should fix. If it is the up and down, how much movement or room are we talking? Could you run some teflon tape around the threads to stop it or something to that fact? Maybe even silicon? I have never seen anyone have any clunking though from the front discos. So, I am just throwing out ideas...

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Old 10-03-2012, 10:03 AM   #24
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Pete, is yours moving up and down or side to side? If it is the side to side (which I doubt) the nut should fix. If it is the up and down, how much movement or room are we talking? Could you run some teflon tape around the threads to stop it or something to that fact? Maybe even silicon? I have never seen anyone have any clunking though from the front discos. So, I am just throwing out ideas...

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Hello Jason,
It’s moving UP and DOWN. Not a lot maybe 1/16 of an inch. Did not measure it. Enough to feel it right away. I removed the bolt and the quick disconnect and in my hand it feels like these two (threaded bolt and quick disconnect) are not made for each other. The bolt should not be threaded there (where the QD slides on and stay) in the first place but different- smaller diameter ----cannot swallow that!!

I am surprised myself that other people do not complain about this. Maybe if you tighten it with a nut, the clunking sound would be less if not eliminated however the bolt should NOT be threaded where is in contact with QD sleeve.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:13 AM   #25
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i would agree with this...why have the threaded part all the way through? i would think the threads would just grind on the QD sleeves over time making them even looser for more up and down motion.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #26
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i would agree with this...why have the threaded part all the way through? i would think the threads would just grind on the QD sleeves over time making them even looser for more up and down motion.

Exactly my point!! Thank you!!!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:41 AM   #27
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I don't think that much pressure would be put on the sleeve for it to wear away the threads on the bolt. Remember, you can slide the link off with your hand whenever you need to disconnect the sway bar. The amount of pressure for this to be a problem would prevent you from even disconnecting the link. Pete, just try the nut and see how that goes, I'm pretty sure that will solve the clunking issue and its a quick, easy, free solution.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #28
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I don't think that much pressure would be put on the sleeve for it to wear away the threads on the bolt. Remember, you can slide the link off with your hand whenever you need to disconnect the sway bar. The amount of pressure for this to be a problem would prevent you from even disconnecting the link. Pete, just try the nut and see how that goes, I'm pretty sure that will solve the clunking issue and its a quick, easy, free solution.

I will try this.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:15 PM   #29
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I like the teflon tape idea.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:45 PM   #30
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I like the teflon tape idea.
+1

I'm installing the front portion of my RK 2.5" MT Pro kit tonight. I'm going to throw a couple wraps of teflon tape on the lower sway bar link threads.

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