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Old 09-11-2012, 09:29 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramer2k
That's the way I'm understanding it too. Thanks for putting it in layman's terms so I can get it.

Thanks for the input Imped. Learning some stuff here.
Did not even think I made sense lol

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Old 09-11-2012, 09:30 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
When you are running disconnected wouldn't the tire just flop to the ground with no real support of the jeep?

Where the AR fully plants all tires and holds the weight evenly ?

I'm trying to understand it all
Not really.....but you're getting there.

Think about all forces acting on the axle and the frame.

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Old 09-11-2012, 11:02 AM   #63
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back to the OP's problem, did he disconnect the links and see if the motor is operable or the sway bar's arms are movable.?
Yes, I disconnected the links but as far as I can tell the motor is not operable. It appears to be connected but I'm not convinced its 100% connected, if thats even possible. I can move the sway bar a little bit but not drastically. I'm completely guessing here but it would appear one end of the bar fits into the other end of the and the motor pulls that apart? My complete amatuer guess would say that it is not all the way together.

KJeep, I was pretty close to tearing that plastic thing off but decided to see if there was a way to take it off and put it back first. I guess I shouldn't worry about it as the whole bumper is gonna go sometime this winter anyhow.

Good discussion here, even if Imped is getting a little frustrated that some us laymen apparently don't fully understand all the torsional physics in play with AR sway bar.....
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:14 PM   #64
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I think I got it now. Hopefully what I say here makes sense. For the most part I understood how sway bars worked (or anti-sway to be more correct).

The springs support the weight of the vehicle and the shocks help control up and down movement of the suspension. As one wheel wants to drop (pothole, crevice, etc) the sway bar makes the opposite wheel "attempt" to drop. If one wheel goes up the sway attempts to make the other wheel go up. So in effect it trys to keep the Jeep level.

Now since there is more weight in the front plus steering, it makes sense that the front sway bar would be thicker than the rear. This provides good on road handling but offroad, it resists axle articulation and limits traction in certain situations. The rear moves more than the front so there isn't quite an equal balance so to speak.

With the front disconnected, the axle can articulate freely, but again there isn't a balance between front and rear because the rear isn't disconnected. Also, on rough terrain, there is no sway control in front. This could lead to accidents.

Now something like the AR is used. It provides a better balance between front and rear AND also has more flexibility than stock so there is more axle movement. But it is more controlled.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:22 PM   #65
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That splash panel will come off with a pair of sidecut pliers on the pushpins (screws or whatever). That way you can reinstall it if you decide to put it back to stock and/or sell.

I'd remove it and start looking at whether the motor functions. See that it's getting power, next step might be pulling it apart and see that it functions. I'm sure you can find a link to a cutaway of the device.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:24 PM   #66
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The whole AR/sway bar/torsion bar is a distraction. You guys should start a new thread rather than (respectfully) hijack one with an current repair issue.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:40 PM   #67
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That splash panel will come off with a pair of sidecut pliers on the pushpins (screws or whatever). That way you can reinstall it if you decide to put it back to stock and/or sell.

I'd remove it and start looking at whether the motor functions. See that it's getting power, next step might be pulling it apart and see that it functions. I'm sure you can find a link to a cutaway of the device.
Any suggestions on how to do that? It didnt appear to me that it was getting any power. Thinking I could've blown a fuse cause theres a chance I fat fingered the locker and sway bar buttons. As much as I'm not a mechanic I'm certainly not an electrician so that's a blind guess.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:47 PM   #68
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As you turn the Phillips head screw in the pushpin, place a flat tip screwdriver under the head and pry up. The screws will come out and you don't have to destroy the pushpins. Check your fuses.

Also disconnect the sway bar links. Pull up or push down while a friend holds the opposite end of the sway bar. If you can freely move your side and the other side doesn't move, the SB isn't connected. If the friend's side of the sway bar wants to move the same direction as yours, its connected.

I willa ttempt to dig up a wiring schematic for the e-disco.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #69
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J11, 30 Amp Pink. Page #100, Users Guide

Check/and or replace.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:52 PM   #70
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That splash panel will come off with a pair of sidecut pliers on the pushpins (screws or whatever). That way you can reinstall it if you decide to put it back to stock and/or sell.

Don't ditch the air dam or especially the little black plastic piece that fills the gap on the top of the stock bumper. I think it was the OP that mentioned getting a replacement bumper- the little black plastic piece might come in handy. I had a small gap with my new bumper- I reversed the plastic piece and re-installed it. Covered the gap. Caught this idea on another helpful Forum thread otherwise I would've tossed the piece.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:03 PM   #71
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Here's what I could find for the e-disco. There are 3 fuses you need to check.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Automatic Sway Bar System.pdf (28.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: pdf Computer Data Lines.pdf (45.5 KB, 14 views)
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:00 PM   #72
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Thanks Silversport but honestly I dont even know what I'm looking at. Might have to run this one to the shop and have them tell me if a fuse is blown or if the motor is blown. I'm learning but very slowly as I come from a family who never so much as changed a flat tire.......Suspension work I can understand to a degree, wiring schematics? Not so much....
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #73
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Check fuses before throwing in towel.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:11 PM   #74
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Thanks Silversport but honestly I dont even know what I'm looking at. Might have to run this one to the shop and have them tell me if a fuse is blown or if the motor is blown. I'm learning but very slowly as I come from a family who never so much as changed a flat tire.......Suspension work I can understand to a degree, wiring schematics? Not so much....
Understood. But at least open the cover of the TIPM and check the fuses.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:30 PM   #75
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That splash panel will come off with a pair of sidecut pliers on the pushpins (screws or whatever). That way you can reinstall it if you decide to put it back to stock and/or sell.

Don't ditch the air dam or especially the little black plastic piece that fills the gap on the top of the stock bumper. I think it was the OP that mentioned getting a replacement bumper- the little black plastic piece might come in handy. I had a small gap with my new bumper- I reversed the plastic piece and re-installed it. Covered the gap. Caught this idea on another helpful Forum thread otherwise I would've tossed the piece.
Pics? I have not tossed mine out yet but there is a pile ready for a dump run & given that they are not selling on ebay, it may go too.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:48 PM   #76
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Understood. But at least open the cover of the TIPM and check the fuses.
Yeah I'm gonna take a look at that before throwing in the towel. If the fuses look good then gonna have my buddy who IS an electrician throw a meter on the wiring harness on the motor to see if it is getting power.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:35 PM   #77
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Pics? I have not tossed mine out yet but there is a pile ready for a dump run & given that they are not selling on ebay, it may go too.

This isn't my pic- my Jeep is at home. But the piece between the body and the new bumper is the (stock) long rectangular piece that sits in the same spot with the stock bumper. You flip it then re-install- it covers any gap you might have on your aftermarket bumper. It would depend on what bumper you choose- just mentioning it because I certainly would've thrown mine away with the bumper and the air dam if I hadn't seen the post.

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Old 09-11-2012, 04:40 PM   #78
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interesting. unfortunately that would not work on mine.

Anybody want an extra?
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:27 PM   #79
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Electrician or Magician? I don't really care. I pulled the fuse for the sway bar disco, examined it closely, pulled another (relatively inconsequential) fuse to compare and decided that in my professional opinion it looked fine. Popped it back in, jumped in and turned it on and the sway bar light was gone. So that was good news but not problem solved, hit the sway bar button and immediately heard the motor engage and the sway bar light came back on and stayed on. Had my roommate hit the button I got under it and I could hear the motor engage again but the light would just flash. Had to get in and drive it back and forth a bit which is normal. So I'm going with its fixed at least until it breaks again.
I do have to say that I can't really see how the electric sway bar breaks much and allows for drastically more articulation. I've had the axle pretty dropped out before so I guess it does but I looked at it while it was disconnected and I just dont see much of a difference. Maybe that's just my amateur eye but I CAN see how the quick discos allow the for more articulation. Either way I'm glad it appears to be fixed for now. And thanks for everyone's input on this.

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