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Old 09-09-2012, 08:50 PM   #1
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Rubi Discos Busted

I was out wheeling today. Had the sway bar disconnected and was cruising around some roads. Got up above 18 for a brief time as the spot where we aired down and disconnected (for those that aren't button pushers) was about a mile or 2 from the start of the trail. Eventually got to a gnarly loose hill and I hit the lockers, got to the top and we hung out for bit while one guy fixed a flat from the loose razor rocks. Got going again and hit the lockers off and the sway bar light started flashing. I stopped, backed, up, inched forward rocked it on level ground, stopped and went to 2wd and back, even beat on it lightly with a rubber mallet, basically all the obvious fixes and nothing took. Continued on figuring it would sort itself out but it never did. It felt like while driving that the sway bar was connected, or at least mostly connected as the ride was noticeably more bouncy. I got under it but it looks like the break point is inside the motor, or some components of the motor, so I couldn't really tell if it was definitely connected. Its still flashing and I don't hear the motor engage when I hit the button.
Whats my best bet for diagnosing/fixing this? I'm not much of a mechanic but I've been learning. Not really interested in paying someone to repair the motor if thats the issue as I would probably just go with quick disconnects when I put on a full lift in the spring. I'm up for anyone's best guestimate on this. I'm sure its come up before but I couldn't find a thread on it so also feel free to point me in that direction if you remember one on this topic. Thanks for your help.

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Old 09-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #2
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Mine does this from time to time. I have let it flash for a few days and then it will go off. I have found out lately that if I flex the front end while connected the sway bar will make a poping sound then go back to working right. This is what works for me, good luck figuring it out.

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Old 09-09-2012, 11:29 PM   #3
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Good tip.

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Old 09-10-2012, 04:27 AM   #4
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Check this out (if it is broke)

http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...d=EVO-NOLIMITS


It may still be a good idea to disconnect fully to save your disconnects. I do believe you will get more flex also.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:39 AM   #5
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The idea that you can't run in 2-hi or 4-hi disconnected in a JK rubicon isn't quite true. If you're in 4-lo and disconnect, then put it in 2/4-hi when you're not level, it will not reconnect immediately. AFAIK it will be disconnected until your jeep is level and stable enough for it to reconnect. That being said, I've never had mine flash like that for that long...once I get back to civilization and stop somewhere and shut it down, when I start it back up it's been reconnected and the light stopped flashing.

Let us know if you try the flex trick mentioned above and whether it works.

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Old 09-10-2012, 11:02 AM   #6
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Thanks for the responses, I'll go out and try to flex it on something and leave it for a bit but I'm pretty sure I flexed the hell out of it yesterday on the way down the hill and got nothing. I don't hear the motor tring to engage at all anymore and it definitely felt like it was a bit surfy on the way to work this morning. Seems like it might stuck half connected if that's possible.
Some other friends have sent me that link for changing over the electro disconnects. Is it better than just taking the motor out and going to JKS quick discos? It would still seemt like that system would give you better articulation.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCJK
Thanks for the responses, I'll go out and try to flex it on something and leave it for a bit but I'm pretty sure I flexed the hell out of it yesterday on the way down the hill and got nothing. I don't hear the motor tring to engage at all anymore and it definitely felt like it was a bit surfy on the way to work this morning. Seems like it might stuck half connected if that's possible.
Some other friends have sent me that link for changing over the electro disconnects. Is it better than just taking the motor out and going to JKS quick discos? It would still seemt like that system would give you better articulation.
Quick disco's will give you the best articulation and will save your motor in extreme conditions.

Just leave the motor in and add quick disco's. You want to still be able to use it but can fully disconnect when/if needed.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:20 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Quick disco's will give you the best articulation and will save your motor in extreme conditions.

Just leave the motor in and add quick disco's. You want to still be able to use it but can fully disconnect when/if needed.
Yeah but if the motor is busted what's the point? Then I'm spending $90 on the conversion kit plus $100 on the quick discos. I could probably fix the motor for close to that amount.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCJK

Yeah but if the motor is busted what's the point? Then I'm spending $90 on the conversion kit plus $100 on the quick discos. I could probably fix the motor for close to that amount.
Sure about that ? I read some horror stories...... Really expensive
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:29 AM   #10
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No I'm not sure about that. Either way, if the motor is busted why wouldn't I just take it out and go with a standard quick disco system? The nice thing about the electro disconnect is being able to push a button, if I take that function away what would the benefit be of installing the conversion kit along with the quick disco? Sorry if I'm runing this in circles but I feel like I'm missing something....
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Sure about that ? I read some horror stories...... Really expensive
$1,760.00
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:38 AM   #12
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$1,760.00
No way, who the hell would pay that?
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:48 AM   #13
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I'd just use this opportunity to remove that stock junk and replace it with something that will actually benefit you.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:51 AM   #14
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No way, who the hell would pay that?
Not me. LOL
Sounds like the $90 manual disconnect + quick discos might be the way to go.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #15
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Not me. LOL
Sounds like the $90 manual disconnect + quick discos might be the way to go.
So at the risk being redundantly redundant why wouldn't I just take the motor out and put the quick discos on? What would the benefit of the $90 manual disconnect PLUS the quick discos?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
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So at the risk being redundantly redundant why wouldn't I just take the motor out and put the quick discos on? What would the benefit of the $90 manual disconnect PLUS the quick discos?
Brain fart on my part. So to be redundantly redundant clear, you could replace the whole assembly with a solid sway bar and use quick discos on each end.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:16 PM   #17
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Brain fart on my part. So to be redundantly redundant clear, you could replace the whole assembly with a solid sway bar and use quick discos on each end.
Thank you! So now I know what my options are and I just have to figure out exactly if the motor is completely busted or not.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:21 PM   #18
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Thank you! So now I know what my options are and I just have to figure out exactly if the motor is completely busted or not.
Another brain fart. If the motor is busted, BUT the bar is connected, just throw on the QDs.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:25 PM   #19
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Another, much better option that nobody has mentioned for some reason.....

Currie AntiRock.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversport

another brain fart. If the motor is busted, but the bar is connected, just throw on the qds.
x2
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:38 PM   #21
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Okay this may be a stupid question but how can i tell if it is connected? Offroad it felt like it was connected, highway at 50mph I would said maybe not. Looking at it its hard to tell as the break point is inside the housing as far as I can tell.
What's the benefit of the Currie AntiRock?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCJK
Okay this may be a stupid question but how can i tell if it is connected? Offroad it felt like it was connected, highway at 50mph I would said maybe not. Looking at it its hard to tell as the break point is inside the housing as far as I can tell.
What's the benefit of the Currie AntiRock?
Flex it out.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:45 PM   #23
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Disconnect both sides links and see if you can move the sway bar. Then try the switch/motor. You need to debug this process one step at a time.

What year is it?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Okay this may be a stupid question but how can i tell if it is connected? Offroad it felt like it was connected, highway at 50mph I would said maybe not. Looking at it its hard to tell as the break point is inside the housing as far as I can tell.
What's the benefit of the Currie AntiRock?
I run the Currie anti rock on my JK and I love it. I finally found a way to be lazier then a Rubicon button masher lol. But seriously... You don't have to touch it at all. It drives great on road and doesn't feel floaty like a full disconnect but when it's time to flex it does it's job and let's the axles articulate while pushing the tires to the ground.

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Old 09-10-2012, 12:55 PM   #25
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Disconnect both sides links and see if you can move the sway bar. Then try the switch/motor. You need to debug this process one step at a time.

What year is it?
Cool, will do that tonight.
Its an 07.

Interesting about the Currie AntiRock. I'll have to do a little research on that.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:10 PM   #26
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I discussed torsion bars like the AR over on JKO. Here are a couple threads:

Anyone used a rear sway bar on the front? Poor-man's anti-rock? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
Question about Currie Anti-rock - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

Do note that there's also a lot of misinformation and ignorance out there on the subject of torsion bars. The inability to think logically and apply basic physics runs rampant in this community so do your best to ignore those who are lacking in those subjects. The best possible thing you can do is educate yourself....then you'll realize how useless running without a sway bar is. You absolutely cannot argue against proper torsion bars--it works better on paper AND in the real world.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:41 PM   #27
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Thanks Imped, those look like great reads. Maybe I'll have to join that forum too cause I certainly don't waste enough time on this one....
I wouldn't consider rolling with no sway bar. Spend most of my time on high mountain passes with lots of sharp curves and definitely need the torsional rigidity provided by a sway bar.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:53 PM   #28
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I wouldn't consider rolling with no sway bar.
That's exactly what you do when the front is disconnected.

Doesn't make much sense once you have a good understanding of what's going on, does it?
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:17 PM   #29
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Having run the same trails completely disconnected and with the AR. I felt with the AR the tires were "driven" to the ground while articulating as apposed to just rolling over. Not sure if that makes sense. the extra"roll" on the street is negligible to me and I also spend time on windy mountain roads. But that is my opinion, if you are ever in the springs area and want to feel it on the street hit me with a pm.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:28 PM   #30
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That's exactly what you do when the front is disconnected.

Doesn't make much sense once you have a good understanding of what's going on, does it?
Yes I understand that. I just meant I wouldn't consider going without a sway bar on the road on an ongoing basis. Maybe I misunderstood your previous post......

Good info Jager. I'm going to look into this option and see if it makes the most sense once I figure out if my motor is busted or just being a pain in the ass for the time being.
Are you going to the BV Poker Run? I'm sure I'll have this fixed before then but depending on which route I go maybe I'll check out your AR that weekend.

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