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Old 08-22-2013, 07:31 AM   #1
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rubicon express drag link flip questions

Went to do my drag link flip yesterday and ran into some problems, well let's just say I wasn't taking my time to figure things out and stripped one of the tie rod ends (knuckle side)


ordering a new end but I also had a question about track bar drop brackets.
RE says in their description this drag link is used track bars that have the drop down bracket used with them, I don't have one and was wondering if it's necessary to order one so I can buy everything at once.
Rubicon Express Part RE2610 - Chromoly Draglink

If that bracket is needed what is everyone running?
If anyone has pointers too on how to install the drag link and recenter the steering wheel I'd appreciate it.

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Old 08-22-2013, 07:41 AM   #2
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yes, you're going to need a bracket if you don't have one. when you flip your drag link, it will no longer be parallel with the track bar. you'll need to raise the track bar at the axle to bring it back inline with your newly raised (flipped) drag link.

i'm running a synergy suspension TB bracket. the TB mount on the axle is notoriously weak. the welds crack... the synergy mount spreads out the load of that stress with the clamp, the added bolts to the axle mount, and added bolts to the sway bar mount).

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Old 08-22-2013, 07:44 AM   #3
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What exactly did you strip ?

YES !!! You need to raise or drop the track bar or you will induce bump steer.

If you can raise the TB, that's a better option. What's a drag link flip/kit ?
http://youtu.be/0RRjZAP8UkI
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:06 AM   #4
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What exactly did you strip ?

YES !!! You need to raise or drop the track bar or you will induce bump steer.

If you can raise the TB, that's a better option. What's a drag link flip/kit ? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Synergy highsteer/jeep Jk - YouTube
the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint, I think I stripped the threads because it won't tighten or come off. It just spins freely on the bolt now

Tabber is synergies tb mount a weld on? Seen one where you have to cut the existing mount of the axle and weld theirs on (trying to avoid all that if possible).

kjjeep what's the bracket you're using in that thread you linked?

do yinz think it's better to lift the trackbar or get one of those drop brackets?
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:26 AM   #5
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nope... it's bolt on KJeeper has the same bracket, you can see it pretty good in the youtube video
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabber02 View Post
nope... it's bolt on KJeeper has the same bracket, you can see it pretty good in the youtube video


Did you oversize the hole ? Can you back it with a washer on the nut side ? Sometimes that works .
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #7
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dont think I over sized hole, I got one of those sleeves in there now.


I think my problem started when I was just trying to get the balls joint in the sleeve. It didn't want to go down in on it's own so I put the castle nut on to try and pull it down into the sleeve by tightening. It got to a point where it was getting tough so I put a new battery on my impact wrench and that's when it just stripped. When I get home from work I'll take a pic and show yinz what I mean.

Is this the bracket you guys got? I want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff so I don't make another mistake haha
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-16402.html
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:54 AM   #8
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i can't see the picture.. at work... stupid IT policies..

EDIT: see the link now - yes that's the one I have. make sure you don't order the RHD one though!
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
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i can't see the picture.. at work... stupid IT policies..

EDIT: see the link now - yes that's the one I have. make sure you don't order the RHD one though!
Cool, thanks for help. Going to have to order that Tuesday but already got my other parts on the way. I'll make sure not the get the RHD one (hopefully )
Thank god I can peddle to work when the jeep is down
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:27 AM   #10
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Ok... The RE sleeve is solid. Synergy's is split.
Problem some folks were having. They were over sizing the hole. The TRE would fall through the sleeve and the cotter pin would not line up.
The instructions were revised to use a 13/16 drill bit and a bigger adopter was made for the oversized holes.
My problem was the same as yours. I drilled the hole but perfectly and the adapter fit tight. The tre would not seat. I ruined the adapter and needed a new one.

What size bit and target hole side does RE ask for ?

I would remove the adapter and make sure it fits around the TRE. You might have to drill the hole bigger or Dremil to size.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:48 AM   #11
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RE only told me to ream it out and i didn't have one so i just drilled the 13/16" hold and put synergy's adapter in there. It fits snug and the sleeve isn't moving. it's just i think the tre wasn't lined up properly when i was installing it so it was kind of crooked in there. I also had the other end of the DL bolted to the pitman arm when I was doing this.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #12
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That's synergy a adapter ?
Then I believe you need to open the hole. The slot should not be closed up
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:37 AM   #13
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Yea it was opened at first before I put it in. So are you saying I need to drill the hole out bigger?
1/2"-1" Tapered Reamer is required for install. That's all the info they RE gives you on their web page. I can look at the directions when I get home later on. I know synergy makes a 7/8" sleeve to but not sure if that's to one I need. Google isn't helping me today unless I'm over looking something

edit
1-1/2" per foot and the major diameter is 3/4" for the tapered reamer
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:00 AM   #14
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5. If using an 8001-02-01 TRE adapter, drill the factory steering knuckle using a 13/16” drill bit and install the flip adapter from the top. Be careful when drilling out the hole to not oblong or enlarge the hole over .880”
6. The 13/16” (.8125&rdquo drill bit should equate to about a .850” hole due to hand drilling. If additional clearance is needed, use a small dremel tool or die grinder to clearance the hole for the flip adapter to gently tap into position.
• Any larger than .880” and the flip adapter will not seat correctly in the knuckle. The target finished hole size is between .845” and .875” See Pictures 5.1 and 5.2 for reference.
• Once the hole is drilled to size, gently tap the flip adapter into place. Gently pinching close the gap before tapping in will help get the adapter started.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:02 PM   #15
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Seems like I did it right buy those instructions. That's what I did to get the adapter into the knuckle. My new TRE should be in this weekend or Monday so I'll have go at it again soon.
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:45 PM   #16
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I was just wondering what TB you have? I was going to get the RE flip kit but not only was I going to have to get the flip kit but buy a different TB also. This made the RE option about $200 more than any other kit.

I currently have the adjustable TB that came with the RE lift.
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:06 AM   #17
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I have the JKS adjustable track bars front and rear.

I hope my parts come in tomorrow so I can get my jeep back on the road
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoJK View Post
I have the JKS adjustable track bars front and rear.

I hope my parts come in tomorrow so I can get my jeep back on the road
what'd you wind up ordering? the synergy TB mount, what else?
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:01 PM   #19
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what'd you wind up ordering? the synergy TB mount, what else?
I just got new TRE's for the my drag link and ordering the TB mount Tuesday when I get paid.
My buddy I bought this off said he has a heavy duty TB mount welded on there now but when I look at it, it doesn't seem like there is any after market mount on there. I'll have to look again.

When you re install your DL do you guys do it with the passenger tire still jacked up, or do you sit it back down on level ground?
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:38 AM   #20
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Well I may as well update this.
Haven't been able to work on the jeep much the past 2 weeks but this is what happened.
-coudn't fit the TRE end into the knuckle no matter what I tried, ordered the 7/8" sleeve (and the track bar relo bracket) to try that out. both on back order so had to wait a while.
-Called my dad's buddy who has a garage and asked him for a drill bit and he said bring the jeep here and we'll look at it.
-Well we put my jeep on a lift and I noticed my stub shaft had some grinding marks on it like it was hitting the knuckle sometime when it was rotating. grabbed my wheel and it had waaay to much play in it. Both unit bearing were shot (fml). So now I have some Timken bearings coming in.
-Got the RE drag link sort of in where it needs to be and me and Him both didn't like the way it looked. Hit my passenger side sway link with any little flex at all. He found me a steering knuckle so I'm prob going to switch it back to stock for now (still kept my stock DL)
-So as of now I'm thinking about ditching this Rubicon Express DL for the time being till I feel like doing this again.
I should have waited till I actually had time (and the right tools) to do this. between my wedding and two of my friends getting married this month it's getting a little hectic. Leaving to go to west Virginia in a couple hours for my Bach party so I won't be getting back to this till maybe Wednesday next week.
I'll update when I either get this RE draglink to work or if I just end up putting my stock one back on for the time being.

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