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Rubicon Hardrock Hood Vent Mod (Done)

180K views 539 replies 194 participants last post by  Old Dogger 
#1 ·
Wasn't a question as to whether it was getting done so - today.

Step #1- Take your vents out. Slow/Easy wins the race. You have Four(4) tabs. Two you can get to easily and one is a sort of. Press the two in and as you apply gentle pressure out on the vent Have some folded cardboard to put between the vent and the hood to keep them from re-seating. Then take a screwdriver and gently ease it in the third tab and the ven pops out. Repeat other side.
Before I removed them I used a Sharpie and marked the outline.

Here is what is under your vents:




Here is how much venting we get


Here is the back before cutting, outlines I drew while still in



Fronts before cutting (Darkness)



Hood porn


OK, opened up. ALL three Grates are open air now. Used a Dremel cut-off wheel and an exacto knife to trim. EZ-PZ.


From the Top


Back installed, Pic from under


"Rubiville Garage" as seen thru the "Hood Vents"


Now for my Un-Scientific opinion, First Off I'm not one to have a tupee or implants or Fake Hood Vents so, they were getting opened no matter what but... went for a ride this morning and took notice the entire ride of the EVIC temps and I was 203-206.
AFTER the Mod took the same ride and I was 197-201. Doesn't sound dramatic but, the early ride pre-mod was 74* outside.
Later ride it was 89* outside so I say that is Dramatic.
Got back and did the hand test, holding my hand over the venst and it is remarkable and very noticeable how much Heat comes out now.

So, Glad I did it. EZ Mod. I am a Firm believer that Heat and Heat retention IS a Huge enemy of a Motor and I will do anything reasonable to mitigate heat build up. Will it enable me to fly or date the chick off of MadMen? No.
But the Hood (IMO) and in the opinion of others here on WF was designed (by AEV) to be a functional hood. Why Mopar kept the vents sealed, who knows but they made them easy to open.

Peace. If you decide to do it and have questions, let me know.
Rubi
 
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#4 · (Edited)
From the look of the picture, you didn't need to cut as much as you did, is the a reason why you cut as much as you did? And each side looks like you cut them differently, is there a reason why?

Could the section of between the lines be removed and accomplished the same opening?

The reason I am asking, is I don't see any venting on the front opening. (Never mind I saw my answer) :)

Automotive lighting Yellow Light Bumper Footwear


Also wondering if you have ran water on the hood now and what happens?
 
#6 ·
Good questions.
On my phone now so this is tougher.

- left and right vent are slightly different shape but the reason for the difference in cuts is, after I did my first one (no complaints) I made two observations and employed the very slight adjustment in the second vent.

BOTH vents while not visible with light - the front most vent is open as well albeit via 1/2" gap. If you do the Mod you'll see what I mean.

I will report back when I water test it. I do not expect any issues. The Entire engine bay is a declared "wet zone" is open from underneath and is open in this fashion in every other vented Hood application with zero issues.
 
#7 ·
Looks fantastic, well done!!! You now have RubiFlow, I would have RubiFlow too if I had such a bad ass hood...
 
#8 ·
Just got back from evening ride (same route) and the air temps are down to what they were this morning.
EVIC ran 185 - 193 but when I returned and popped the bonnet the lack of under hood heat was what was most noticeable. Literally as if it had been sitting for a couple hours after a normal ride warm not hot.
Interesting.

I will water test it tomorrow. spray the hose down on it for a couple minutes or until the first mosquito bite.
I think someone asked about the "wire looms" beneath. I assume they may have been referring to the nylon mesh that surrounds the misc. hoses which aren't going to be effected either way by water If it comes in.
We'll see. I'll report - You decide. :)
 
#9 ·
Excellent post! Was looking at them today. Will be doing this for sure. Had an 03 Cobra Mustang and did a mod to utilize "heat extractors" in the hood. This is easier and cheaper as I bought aluminum pieces then.
 
#11 ·
Absolutely. No Fans, thermostats, belts - just nicely positioned "vents" that very easily can be turned into Vents.
I imagine the whole fast air/ slow air creating a low pressure blah blah is going to prove effective as well.
I love looking at the Hood even more now.
 
#12 ·
Absolutely. No Fans, thermostats, belts - just nicely positioned "vents" that very easily can be turned into Vents. I imagine the whole fast air/ slow air creating a low pressure blah blah is going to prove effective as well. I love looking at the Hood even more now.
Was my favorite after doing the mod to the cobra. Sitting at the track or at a stop light and seeing that heat rise out was awesome!
 
#18 ·
I will be water testing today. Certainly not a Mod for everyone and possibly not for those who have not wrapped their mind around the true nature of the engine bay on a Jeep. If one is driving in severe rainstorms they are probably encountering puddles, standing water and spray coming thru the Grill.
The motor is a "wet zone" IMO Heat has more potential than rain water.
But, not my intent to convince just inform.
We'll see how it does under the hose.

Just occurred to me and I failed to mention, I do (and always have) hose down/wash my engine about every third wash or as needed. Wash it and then use a leaf blower shop vac to blow it off. That is how I dry my Jeep as well.
I never towel dry a vehicle, always leaf blower.
Less is more when it comes to touching (a vehicle finish) IMO.
So, my Engines have been getting "drenched" for years.
 
#19 ·
It must be a military thing to keep the engine area clean. (21 yrs USA RET CW2 OD Corps) I too wash it down from time to time. I hose the whole engine bay down with Simple Green. Then let is soak as I wash the vehicle. Then I go back to the engine bay and rinse it down. It comes out looking like new every time. Grunge and grime buildup on the engine acts as an insulator. It's best to keep it clean.
 
#22 ·
Just completed this. I took the blanket off the hood while doing this for easier access and I didn't want to damage it. Very easy and should do a lot to reduce engine bay temps. Keep in mind by keeping the overall temps down keep performance up too (not saying this by itself will keep intake temps down but it helps).
 
#27 ·
Looks sweet!
 
#28 ·
Ok. As promised "the Water Test". Some before and after Pics. Like I said, draw your own conclusions - I'm simply showing beginning to end of a project. With the exception of an update after a drive in the rain, this is my end.
I tried to do a driving test but my Wife couldn't keep up with the hose and the camera running along side the Jeep (she kept falling).

Ok, Hose Full spray pressure and ran it until I was frigging soaked (3-5 minutes) my observations, the Factory drain holes aren't very well thought out. I should have dried the hood before I opened it because most of the water in the one pic came after the hose was off and the hood got opened.
anyway....

Before Shots

(I even stood on a step stool to get the right angle for you guys)



My Victim





After





There ya go, as promised. You can decide.
 
#30 ·
Just went to store about 20 minutes one mountain to climb. Ran about 195* on avg.
I remember reading someone mentioning the hood prop getting Hot ( I think I read that) just popped Hood, again engine bay warm (not Hot) and Hood prop is Temp of my garage I just left very cool to the touch.
I don't think the coolant Temp tells the story of this Mod.
This may be more about engine bay temps.
Which is all I ever really noticed as an issue for me. I never had an over-heating complaint even pounding the beach for 12 miles in sugar Sand and 100* temps.
 
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