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Old 03-28-2011, 11:31 AM   #61
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and like I said earlier, I *get* the light offroading part - he also said he may do more down the road ... even 5 minutes off road can test every aspect of the vehicle and driver, whether they chose to be in the situation or not. So "light offroading" doesn't mean much to me in that explanation, as long as "offroad" is mentioned.

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Old 03-28-2011, 11:56 AM   #62
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I was in the same boat back in January and test drove X's, Sahara's & Rubi's at several dealers and liked them all. I was looking for a DD that I could use to haul the family around, never get stuck in sand or snow around here and wheel when I can get away. For me, time is a luxury that I do not have enough of, I'm eating lunch as I read & write on this so I don't have time to swap axles, gears, etc.. myself nor do I have time to interview shops, be without a vehicle, etc.. for however long all this takes. I get off work and go straight to scouts twice a week, weekend events, etc...

The Rubi works for me, down the road on another construction project, maybe I won't be working 50+ hours/wk and I'll have time to buy another Jeep and set it up and pass the Rubi to the wife or daughter. They both like it and I know it's a safe vehicle free of the quirks I'm used to having with aftermarket products.

This is what worked for me, good luck with whatever you decide and no matter which Wrangler you get, I'll wave at ya!

PS - I believe the resale will be better on a Rubi, mostly because when I considered getting a used Jeep, I saw almost no Rubi's and those I did see seemed way overpriced.

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Old 04-25-2011, 08:53 PM   #63
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Speaking of Rubi's is this a good deal, a great deal, or a so-so deal? Thinking I am finally going. 2012's can suck it!



Also even though the photo doesn't show it, it would be the softtop.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:12 PM   #64
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This debate was hashed out in one of the magazines last month. Basicaly, they said if you are NOT going to mod the heck out of it BUT still want a extremely capable rig, right off the showroom floor, go Rubicon.

If you ARE going to mod it, like 35's, or 37's, lower gears, (yes, lower than 4.10's)stronger axles etc... Then you are wasting you money going Rubi!!!

Nuff Said!!
I have a plain old X with the rear locked & the front axle sleeved & gusseted. It goes amazing places & I saved a boatload of cash.

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Old 04-25-2011, 10:15 PM   #65
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IMHO - If you'd keep the Rubi stuff, get the Rubi. If you'd swap it out for other stuff (different locker, gears, tires, etc.) get the Sport.

Resale was mentioned and that's the key. Say the Rubi is 8k more off the lot and worth 5k more 5 years from now when you trade it in. Now say it takes 5k to bring a Sport up to Rubi level. So you pay 3k more for the Rubi up front. But when you go to trade it in, all the aftermarket stuff isn't going to make much of a difference on that Sport. Here's a hypo:

Rubi - 30k, no mods, trade in for 20k in 5 years = 10k lost.
Sport - 22k, 5k mods = 27k up front, trade in for 15k in 5 years = 12k lost.

Just an example but you get the idea. Basically the extra $ you pay for the stuff on the Rubi up front you get back a fairly high %. Not so for aftermarket add-ons. Play with KBB if you want to see what I mean.

All that changes if you're going to keep the thing for a long time. Or if you'd mod the rubi stuff anyway. That was just my best shot at an "average buyer" example.

PS: This is from a guy who has played the "cheapest off the lot" game before. For an average buyer, it doesn't work out in your favor over the long haul.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:51 PM   #66
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One other thing. The Rubi comes with a super low 4 to 1 reduction transfer case. For me, with my 5.13's, this would be way too low for most of my wheeling. If your a slow crawling, obstacle tackling type it may be fine for you. I do trails mainly. I like to keep it in 4 low. My top speed is 22 mph. Perfect for trails & it crawls plenty slow for the types of obstacles I do. Once in a blue moon I'd use the 4 to 1 if I had it.
I would not swap for a new Rubi transfer case if you gave it to me.

So, moral is, take the time to figure out what exactly you are going to do with this jeep, & what kinds of wheeling you will be doing. Once you start building you can get going in a different direction real fast.

I will also say this, open differentials suck so bad. I mean really bad. I think all jeeps should come standard with locking diffs. At least the rear. That is where the Rubi's really shine. I can't imagine flipping three switches & being locked/locked/ disconected.

If I inherited a Rubi I think I would just put a 2.5 Terraflex lift on it & stay with 33's. Then keep the rest stock. Once you go 35's or bigger I think the stock 4.10's get a bit tall.

Bla bla bla...................
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:13 PM   #67
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Like I said, do what you want - but if all the upgrades needed to turn a sport into a rubicon (which it will never be, in much the same way dropping a V8 into a 6 cylinder Mustang will never make it a GT) are considered, not to mention your time, warranty coverage and costs are factored in, I just don't see the point of nickle and diming things.
Gotta say, I agree with you. I wonder how many millions of dollars and thousands of hours have gone into research and development for the Rubi. Everything is designed to work together and function well.

I can understand the appeal of customizing your vehicle to your own taste, but in many cases I would imagine the aftermarket parts on these custom rigs do not function well together as a complete unit. Or it takes many, many mods and lots of money to get it to a point where the parts do work well together. And there goes the warranty, reliability, etc.

Anyway, to each his own. I appreciate all the Jeeps out there.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:00 AM   #68
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Nice 15" on the JK, those 18" and 17" inch wheels are so expensive to get big tires compared to 15"
nice ballsy looking JK bud...simple, clean and mean.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:02 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door View Post
This debate was hashed out in one of the magazines last month. Basicaly, they said if you are NOT going to mod the heck out of it BUT still want a extremely capable rig, right off the showroom floor, go Rubicon.

If you ARE going to mod it, like 35's, or 37's, lower gears, (yes, lower than 4.10's)stronger axles etc... Then you are wasting you money going Rubi!!!

Nuff Said!!
I have a plain old X with the rear locked & the front axle sleeved & gusseted. It goes amazing places & I saved a boatload of cash.

nice climbing. sharp looking Jeep
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:40 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door View Post
If I inherited a Rubi I think I would just put a 2.5 Terraflex lift on it & stay with 33's. Then keep the rest stock. Once you go 35's or bigger I think the stock 4.10's get a bit tall.

Bla bla bla...................
yea the 4.10's would be too tall in a 35 // I ended up going to a 5.13 with the 6spd. As for the 33's, Rubi's come with 32's - not that it makes much of a difference, the idea is the same
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:20 PM   #71
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nice climbing. sharp looking Jeep
Thanks. Thanks a lot!!

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Originally Posted by vze2372e View Post
yea the 4.10's would be too tall in a 35 // I ended up going to a 5.13 with the 6spd. As for the 33's, Rubi's come with 32's - not that it makes much of a difference, the idea is the same
Do you think the 4.10's would be OK with 33's? I'm asking you cuz you know. Most people get these with 3.21's & think they are cool, lol.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:30 PM   #72
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4:10s are fine with 33s just don't be adding heavy bumpers and amor. I had 4:10s and 33s and it was great till I added a SRC front bumper and XRC 10k winch then I lost 2mpgs and hills started making me down shift out of OD. But spend $1,200 on 5:38 gears and u will have All the power u need on that baby lol :handsup
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:46 PM   #73
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4:10s are fine with 33s just don't be adding heavy bumpers and amor. I had 4:10s and 33s and it was great till I added a SRC front bumper and XRC 10k winch then I lost 2mpgs and hills started making me down shift out of OD. But spend $1,200 on 5:38 gears and u will have All the power u need on that baby lol :handsup
Gatcha, thanks. I used to race motorcycles & did all I could to shave weight of the bike as well as myself. I think it took 1 hp to move 7 lbs. When building my jeep I tried to keep the weight off. Hence the stock bumpers, no winch, no rear seat, no 4 door, etc... Got a buddy with Dana 60's, thick skids, 37's and extra roll protection. His jeep is sooooooooooooo slow on the freeway. It's a beast off road but he wants the Hemi now.
Lite is might!!!
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:19 AM   #74
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Now why didn't I think of that ??


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Originally Posted by Rexacon View Post
4:10s are fine with 33s just don't be adding heavy bumpers and amor. I had 4:10s and 33s and it was great till I added a SRC front bumper and XRC 10k winch then I lost 2mpgs and hills started making me down shift out of OD. But spend $1,200 on 5:38 gears and u will have All the power u need on that baby lol :handsup
Heh Heh, good idea !

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Old 04-28-2011, 11:43 AM   #75
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To the original poster,

I think all Wranglers are great DDs, So if you choose a Sport,Sahara or Rubicon,I believe your going to be very very happy.
Don't buy a Grand cherokee, they are not as much fun.

Enjoy your new Jeep Wrangler


AJ
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:45 PM   #76
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More mods = more weight, more weight = less HP, more HP = more you can Carry , but any way you put it always = more money spent, more mods and money spent = awesome trailered Offroad only Rigged Jeep, And awesome Rigged Jeep= most Likely Divorced lol

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