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Old 04-08-2013, 09:24 PM   #1
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running 40 inch tires

i was looking into running 40 inch tires on my jk and was wondering what i would need to do to successfully run them on my jk. Currently i am running a 6.5 inch lift with a dana 44 rear and dana 30 front. I am looking at the mopar dana 44f and dana 60r axles for the military from quadratec for axles. i was wondering if i would need a bigger lift to accommodate the 40 inch tires or what kind of trimming and where would i trim to fit the 40s with out going higher.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:32 PM   #2
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A 6.5" lift should be plenty of height for 40's. If you plan on wheeling I would go with a D60 F & R, as well as hydraulic assist for the steering. I'm sure there is other stuff as well, but hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. Good luck and post a pic when its finished!

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Old 04-08-2013, 09:41 PM   #3
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PM Wester on here, he's running that size lift and tires.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #4
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You would be better off with a 60 front that dose not use unit bearings and just chrome moly axles in the rearend if you dont want to drop a lot of coin at once. It all depends on how hard you plan on wheeling it.

Give us a good honest awnser about how hard you plan on wheeling it or if you even plan in wheeling it any at all.

I have plenty of room for 40's but chose to stick to 37's for now. If I just drove up and down the streat I would be sporting 42's. You just have to be honest about what you are going to do with it to yourself.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:54 PM   #5
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Wheeling it or just on road? Wheeling is a little different. The hydraulic assist for instance is great offroad, but onroad can be a little tricky. Are you turning this into a trailer queen? What do you currently run with 6.5" of lift??
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerumble View Post
Wheeling it or just on road? Wheeling is a little different. The hydraulic assist for instance is great offroad, but onroad can be a little tricky.
That my friend is an understatement, especially when you run a high output PS pump with one. There are very few people that I will let drive my jeep anywhere that they have to go over 25MPH. Sneezing could be a life ending event at 70MPH if you don't know what you are doing.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:41 PM   #7
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Here are the two axles I'm looking at

Front Dana 44 (Dana 30 needs replacing because c is bent)

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_104_T.htm

Rear Dana 60

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_103_T.htm.

I am fine with changing my bolt pattern btw so there is no problem there


Also this jeep will mostly be street driven because I am building a tj for my offroad fun
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #8
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To be honest with you a 60 in the rear is pointless. Especially if you are not going to wheel it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doghound93 View Post
Here are the two axles I'm looking at

Front Dana 44 (Dana 30 needs replacing because c is bent)

MOPAR P5155084 - MOPAR® Performance Military Spec Front Dana 44 Axle Assembly for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Rear Dana 60

MOPAR P5155083 - MOPAR® Performance Military Spec Rear Dana 60 Axle Assembly for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec.

I am fine with changing my bolt pattern btw so there is no problem there


Also this jeep will mostly be street driven because I am building a tj for my offroad fun
You do realize that that D60 is set up for leaf springs? If you were gonna go through the hassle of fabbing brackets, I would start looking in the junkyards for axles.

One of the vendors here just recently did a full blown overhaul on his personal jeep with RJ60s, coilovers, PSC steering, etc etc and is running 40s. I got to see his rig in person and it is clean. He may be able to throw some info your way.

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Old 04-09-2013, 05:00 PM   #10
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To be honest I didn't know they were set up for lead springs guess I will keep looking what's people's opinion about g2 axles
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:55 AM   #11
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I talked to quadratec about those axles and there is a misprint on the website about the rear Dana 60 it was already converted to coil springs and it has the 5.5 bolt pattern so that clears some of this up
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doghound93 View Post
I talked to quadratec about those axles and there is a misprint on the website about the rear Dana 60 it was already converted to coil springs and it has the 5.5 bolt pattern so that clears some of this up
You may research that a little more. Don't completely rely on them on their info. I think Q-tec is a decent place to order stuff, but I dont always feel that staff is aware of stuff like this. There has been more than one occasion I have heard from people (myself included) that were told one thing, only to find out that its wrong info. The mil spec JKs (JK8) that I saw articles for were definitely leaf sprung rear ends.




From what I can see...this is a leaf sprung axle. A pic straight from that link you posted. So if they are, in fact, correct, that is a typo AND a wrong pic.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:13 PM   #13
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I would pass on the mopar dana 60..as I recall its a clip axle and I think only has 30 spline shafts... Call dynatrac and get some prorock 60's with 35 spline or maybe even 40 spline shafts.. 40's a big ass tires....
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:44 PM   #14
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Sure is a lot of talk of big coin being thrown around for a build that is not going to see any abuse.

If you want to run a 60 in the rear that is fine. But don't think you HAVE to do it to run 40's on the street.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchThis! View Post
Sure is a lot of talk of big coin being thrown around for a build that is not going to see any abuse.

If you want to run a 60 in the rear that is fine. But don't think you HAVE to do it to run 40's on the street.
I agree. You are talking about hardcore offroad only style setup and then saying that it is a street only rig. Watch the drivability factor too. Like stated earlier, once you get to a certain point you are going to lose the ease of onroad driving.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:33 PM   #16
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Go Dana 60's

Loving my G2/Currie Rock Jock Dana 60 in the rear, I ran my stock Dana 44 in the rear for about a year before I completely thrashed it playing at a local Rock Quarry (though I was being stupid). Point being if it's very mild offroading the 44 will suffice but if your'e going to wheel it frequently and moderately it ain't going to last. As for up front, no way in hell a Dana 30 is going to hold up to 40's even on road only.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:57 PM   #17
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I was wondering what the difference is between full hydronic and hydronic assist I was getting a little confused between it I know what full hydronic is but is hydronic assist the same? Also if running the 40s would this work on the street and offroad as we'll > http://www.pscmotorsports.com/07-10-...-kit-7418.html
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doghound93 View Post
I was wondering what the difference is between full hydronic and hydronic assist I was getting a little confused between it I know what full hydronic is but is hydronic assist the same? Also if running the 40s would this work on the street and offroad as we'll > http://www.pscmotorsports.com/07-10-...-kit-7418.html
The assist mounts to your tie rod and helps push/pull it. The setup in the link is the one I run. It is super sensitive and I would suggest something with a smaller piston and lower output pump for just going down the highway. If you call PSC and tell them what you need out of a setup they can get you hooked up.

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Old 05-01-2013, 02:28 PM   #19
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Hydro assist is a ram that uses your steering fluid from your gear box to push your tie rod in either direction to assist in steering. It takes a lot of strain off the sector shaft and makes turning big tires a non issue. It really shines in 4 low.

^^^ beat me to it
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:28 PM   #20
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I want to resurrect this thread, I'm doing 40's.....not looking for the nah sayers. I know I need power assist steering, sleeved tubes, new axles, trusses, gussets, blah blah blah. I need to know if I definitely need -38mm offset (3.5 B.S.) or can you do 4.5 B.S. I will be running 40x13.5x17 procomp tires.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:46 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Alwayslooking View Post
I want to resurrect this thread, I'm doing 40's.....not looking for the nah sayers. I know I need power assist steering, sleeved tubes, new axles, trusses, gussets, blah blah blah. I need to know if I definitely need -38mm offset (3.5 B.S.) or can you do 4.5 B.S. I will be running 40x13.5x17 procomp tires.
I have 37x12.50x17 Pitbulls and they rub at full lock with 17x9 wheels 4.75BS .. As it stands it looks like I need at least 4"BS to clear so I'm gonna say you will need the 3.5"BS at least for 40s
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:16 PM   #22
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Yea which is making me lean toward the Method 105 beadlocks they are 3.5BS
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesterM3 View Post
Loving my G2/Currie Rock Jock Dana 60 in the rear, I ran my stock Dana 44 in the rear for about a year before I completely thrashed it playing at a local Rock Quarry (though I was being stupid). Point being if it's very mild offroading the 44 will suffice but if your'e going to wheel it frequently and moderately it ain't going to last. As for up front, no way in hell a Dana 30 is going to hold up to 40's even on road only.
FYI the D30 has the same tubes and c and unit bearings as a D44. For street use the D30 will hold up exactly the same as a D44.
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alwayslooking View Post
I want to resurrect this thread, I'm doing 40's.....not looking for the nah sayers. I know I need power assist steering, sleeved tubes, new axles, trusses, gussets, blah blah blah. I need to know if I definitely need -38mm offset (3.5 B.S.) or can you do 4.5 B.S. I will be running 40x13.5x17 procomp tires.
I ran 38x13.50r17 Yokohama Geolandar MTs with 4.5 backspacing and they rubbed when turning.

I'm currently running the Pro Comp Xtreme MT2 in 40x13.50r17. They run big. They are closer to 14.50 wide. I am running 3.0 backspacing with them.

Based on the Yokohamas rubbing the Pro Comps would be a nightmare.

I would strongly suggest running a smaller tire. I will go back to 38s on my next build.
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Old 12-20-2016, 04:42 PM   #25
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Not the best picture but it's is a 40 inch Pro Comp vs a 37 inch tire. It takes a ton more room and money to run a 40.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:00 PM   #26
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Well it's too late now, RL Carriers called today to say we have tires being delivered tomorrow to you. Procomp 40's along with KMC XD229 bead-locks. Have a feeling I will be waiting on my new TPMS's to get here in order to mount them. Oh well gives me some extra time to trim things out. They come in 3.5 BS so I should be good.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:13 PM   #27
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Well it's too late now, RL Carriers called today to say we have tires being delivered tomorrow to you. Procomp 40's along with KMC XD229 bead-locks. Have a feeling I will be waiting on my new TPMS's to get here in order to mount them. Oh well gives me some extra time to trim things out. They come in 3.5 BS so I should be good.
I think you will be doing more then a little trimming. Do you have longer driveshafts and all 8 adjustable control arms. You will have to push the rear diff back and the front diff forward.

I am curious to see what you'll have to do to get them to fit.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:16 PM   #28
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I have front adjust and was about to order rear adjustable links. Figured by my measurements that I would need to push the rear back about an inch, along with shortening the factory rubi bars.
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:22 PM   #29
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I have the Rock Krawler adjustable lower fronts, would you buy the Rock Krawler adjustable lower rears of just go for a complete set of Core 4x4 arms all the way around?
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:32 PM   #30
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If you get it in the right spot, a true 40 will fit in the wheel well with very little trimming.

Before

after a tiny bit of trimming.

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