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Old 12-01-2011, 06:09 AM   #1
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Rustproofing help for you guys....PLASTIDIP

In anticipation of my JKU which should arrive at the dealer in less than a week, I've been reading almost every thread in the JK section (up to page 30!). Anywho, I have seen that a lot of the members here attempt to rustproof their undersides with spray paint of various brands.

First, I would like to tell all of you that your efforts are worthless. Not only does paint breathe, but if you actually put enough paint on to form a "seal," the metal will STILL rust, but be nicely hidden from view, and you won't be able to maintain the rust, since you can't see it, and by the time you MIGHT discover your cancer, it's too late. So, you want a solution?

The greatest invention since sliced bread...well, maybe not...plastidip. It is available in black at home depot, black or white at ACE, and a rainbow of colors online, including Amazon.

Plastidip is aerosolyzed rubber. It sprays like paint but.....

1)It creates a moistureproof barrier.
2)It can be layered, meaning, you can spray 4 coats, and get 4 times the protection, unlike paint, when the amount of coats does NOT equal x times the protection.
3)It peels off like...I dunno, wax off your skin.
4)It's cheap.
5)Far superior to spray paint for protection.
4)Matte finish, no gloss.
5)Provides a pleasant touch surface
6)Can be used on the body, with absolutely no damage to paint. You can paint your jeep black for an offroad session, come home, and peel it off.
7)You can coat your wheels in it to protect them.
8)Touches up seamlessly. If you have a small nick, shoot that spot, and it blends in with ease.

Examples...



Removal:


Stop spending money and hours of masking and taping to turn your "Jeep" emblems black....use plastidip


It is FAR more durable than any spraypaint you are going to buy.

Overspray? No problem. For tiny spots, just clay bar it, but large hits, just peel it off. If you can peel a candy, you can peel this off.

You can paint your ENTIRE CAR!





Member above got bored, peeled off the black, and sprayed it white instead.




Try it, you will be glad you did. It's cheap, much easier to work with than paint (much less prep required, although a clean surface makes results flawless and most effective) and if you mess up, no biggie, peel it off, and try again.

Hope you guys give it a shot, it really is a great product!


P.S. I do not work for, own stock in, or even know an employee of plastidip. I just really REALLY like their products. Also, there are a few other companies of this stuff out there, but buy the original, it really is the best.

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Old 12-01-2011, 06:18 AM   #2
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U used plasti dip too.door and hood hinges.put plasti dip on roof inside the jeep.look very cool

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Old 12-01-2011, 06:55 AM   #3
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How does this clean up? Looks like it might clean better then bed liner spray.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:05 AM   #4
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Thanks for the tip but I question its usefulness for rustproofing. The same issue of hidden rust applies here. With its ability to peel off easily, wouldn't it be more likely to harbor hidden rust?

I can think of many uses for the product but I'm not ready to spray the undercarriage.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:05 AM   #5
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is this actually more durable then spray paint or bedliner? I guess i didnt listen to the videos, but if you can just peel it off with your fingernails, how is it ever going to hold up offroad?
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:01 AM   #6
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is this actually more durable then spray paint or bedliner? I guess i didnt listen to the videos, but if you can just peel it off with your fingernails, how is it ever going to hold up offroad?
Listen, try it yourself. Buy a box of oreos or any cookies. Buy a can of this stuff at home depot. It should be about $7.25 a can. Coat the cookie with 3 coats all around and let it dry. Drop in a bucket of water. Let soak, remove, dry the outside, and peel it off. You will see the cookie is bone dry. Furthermore, I have a friend that has this stuff on his BMW track wheels, and has been running them for an entire track season, and the coating is still 100% intact. He just removed it for the winter, and the wheels don't have a speck of anything on them. I guarantee it protects better than any spray paint you can buy.

As for the removal, the pulling action cannot be duplicated without a person, so it will not remove on it's own. Also, you need to make a slit in it for you to be able to grab it.

Again, give it a shot, you have nothing to lose but $7.

BTW, it is NOT more "durable" than bedliner, but bedliner is HEAVY and permanent. IT can also crack. Also, bedliner in a can is not that great IMHO. IT is NOT the same stuff that they paint truck beds with.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:35 AM   #7
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Well if it passes the cookie test...
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:53 AM   #8
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What about prepping the under carriage if there is some rust there
already?
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:59 AM   #9
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Yeah I used plastidip to black out the JEEP lettering on my grill a few months ago and its still holding up really well. no chips or anything. I've been kind of tempted to do the whole grill haha
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:29 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Tfrisch90 View Post
Yeah I used plastidip to black out the JEEP lettering on my grill a few months ago and its still holding up really well. no chips or anything. I've been kind of tempted to do the whole grill haha
Just do it. If you don't like it, it will take you 30 seconds to peel it off.
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:30 PM   #11
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What about prepping the under carriage if there is some rust there
already?
Ideally, you want to clean the rust if you want to rustPROOF a part. If you just want it for appearances, then don't bother. Plastidip sticks to anything.
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:31 PM   #12
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Well if it passes the cookie test...
A cookie is a very easy way to test for moisture, since you can clearly see it and feel it. You can use cardboard, but IMHO, the cookie test is like the "as seen on TV tests"...if it passes that then, you know.....
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbtb87 View Post
What about prepping the under carriage if there is some rust there
already?
OSPHO

this is the best stuff for treating rust

can be purchased at NAPA or your local paint store


Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:33 PM   #14
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OSPHO

this is the best stuff for treating rust

can be purchased at NAPA or your local paint store


Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
If you say this stuff works, you can use this, then when dry, throw a few coats of plastidip on it, and every season change, throw an extra coat to maintain.
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:35 PM   #15
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For rustproofing, I am a big believer in Ziebart.

I had my brand new, 2006 Wrangler undercoated at Ziebart when it was new. I got the Ziebart undercoat only, (no spraying inside doors, etc) and it now has 98,000, Northeast Ohio miles on it. Very little rust on the underside.

They use lots and lots or road salt in my area.

I had it re-sprayed at Ziebart last March and it still looks great.



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Old 12-01-2011, 04:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
If you say this stuff works, you can use this, then when dry, throw a few coats of plastidip on it, and every season change, throw an extra coat to maintain.
Yes the ospho only treats the rust, actually chemically changes it to a primer, it needs to be covered/painted/plastidiped or something after treatment
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:01 PM   #17
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I have to tell ya...I wouldn't mind trying this on my wheels.
edit
-and my Jeep emblem!

-and you know, this stuff would probably kick butt blacking out the stock radio antenna for folks who want to keep it but bring everything into the black trim scheme, since it is so flexible.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:12 PM   #18
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Well now I know what I will be using for the inside of the hard top
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:45 PM   #19
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How does it hold up with heath? Just an extreme example: could you be 'plasti-dipping' your exhaust? Since it is plastic/rubber, I assume it will melt?
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:05 PM   #20
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How does it hold up with heath? Just an extreme example: could you be 'plasti-dipping' your exhaust? Since it is plastic/rubber, I assume it will melt?
No. Since it is a rubberized plastic, the exhaust is just too hot. You would have to use something like VHT engine enamel for exhaust. I use it on my wheels for track sessions on my sports car to prevent wheel damage, and it stands up to abuse without a problem, but wheels don't get NEARLY as hot as exhausts do.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Listen, try it yourself. Buy a box of oreos or any cookies. Buy a can of this stuff at home depot. It should be about $7.25 a can. Coat the cookie with 3 coats all around and let it dry. Drop in a bucket of water. Let soak, remove, dry the outside, and peel it off. You will see the cookie is bone dry. Furthermore, I have a friend that has this stuff on his BMW track wheels, and has been running them for an entire track season, and the coating is still 100% intact. He just removed it for the winter, and the wheels don't have a speck of anything on them. I guarantee it protects better than any spray paint you can buy.

As for the removal, the pulling action cannot be duplicated without a person, so it will not remove on it's own. Also, you need to make a slit in it for you to be able to grab it.

Again, give it a shot, you have nothing to lose but $7.

BTW, it is NOT more "durable" than bedliner, but bedliner is HEAVY and permanent. IT can also crack. Also, bedliner in a can is not that great IMHO. IT is NOT the same stuff that they paint truck beds with.
answer this: have you ever sold vacume cleaners dood to door? The cookie bit sounds tricky.
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:01 PM   #22
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Id have to think it will only work if you have fresh/new paint to go over. For those of us who work with older junk its not feasible.....por or chassiscoat is much more suited
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Tfrisch90 View Post
Yeah I used plastidip to black out the JEEP lettering on my grill a few months ago and its still holding up really well. no chips or anything. I've been kind of tempted to do the whole grill haha
How long did it take to mask the lettering and when you peeled off the masking tape why did the plasidip not come off too? Sounds like something I would like to do but I don't want to waste my time if it does not look perfect.

Do you have pictures?
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:56 PM   #24
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I have used the original plasti-dip, in a can that you actually dip into. Used it on tool handles and screwdriver shafts....works for that, but there's no way that I'm using it on my frame or any other part under my JK....

I would much rather see where the rust is and deal with it...not cover it up, cuz it'll still be there....

I live in the rust belt, so I have been dealing with rust issues all my life, just like Mabar...and for more than $7 a can, no way......

OP...aren't you the guy that wants to put Rolls Royce lights in your JK?
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:12 PM   #25
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I have used the original plasti-dip, in a can that you actually dip into. Used it on tool handles and screwdriver shafts....works for that, but there's no way that I'm using it on my frame or any other part under my JK....

I would much rather see where the rust is and deal with it...not cover it up, cuz it'll still be there....

I live in the rust belt, so I have been dealing with rust issues all my life, just like Mabar...and for more than $7 a can, no way......

OP...aren't you the guy that wants to put Rolls Royce lights in your JK?
Yea, I want "Rolls Royce" lights in my JK. Maybe you can go back and actually read the post.
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:48 PM   #26
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Yeah I can't really see where the two are connected other than the forward thinking and open mindedness that the OP has shown towards dealing with certain issues.

It seems like doing the Jeep emblem up front might be the trickiest.
I'm also concerned about it coming out perfect though. It's black it out or remove it entirely, and I'd really rather keep it.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:11 PM   #27
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Thanks for the tip but I question its usefulness for rustproofing. The same issue of hidden rust applies here. With its ability to peel off easily, wouldn't it be more likely to harbor hidden rust?

I can think of many uses for the product but I'm not ready to spray the undercarriage.
Yeah for rustproofing its a very bad idea. same with bedlining. For decorating its fine, but as a protectant its a real bad idea. you would be better off just doing nothing than using it, atleast you can see the rust. In the undercarraige you will have a bunch of small holes develop and you will get rust that will actually penetrate deeper into the metal.
For real rust protection por15 is the way to go.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:31 PM   #28
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Yeah I can't really see where the two are connected other than the forward thinking and open mindedness that the OP has shown towards dealing with certain issues.

It seems like doing the Jeep emblem up front might be the trickiest.
I'm also concerned about it coming out perfect though. It's black it out or remove it entirely, and I'd really rather keep it.
It's actually not that bad. You spray away, then when dry, it will want to rip at the seams on it's own. You can use a toothpick to help it tear in the correct spots. I've done a number of badges for friends, and never really had an issue. On one application, I accidentally tore too far, so I just peeled the whole thing off and did it again. That's why I love the product, it has absolutely no permanent damaging effects.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:32 PM   #29
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I usually don't like to debate and argue these things, but you do realize that if no one ever tries anything, or come up with new solutions for a common problem, no products would come to market and nothing would get done. Just something to think about before you call someone out.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:44 PM   #30
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I did my antenna a few months ago and it has held up great! Highly recommended if you want a black antenna.

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