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Skid plates, where to start?

2K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  Reave 
#1 ·
I'm taking my 2013 JKU off road for the first time on a few beginner trails in northern Ontario. The trails have detours around most of the rocky sections but I want to see what my Jeep can do. What areas need to be protected first, can't afford to do everything all at once.
 
#5 ·
I'm going to agree with Mike he hit the nail on the head.

Honestly these are the only things I've added, where there was a stock skid it has proven to be good enough for me.

I will say the evap (even with stock skid over it) is a bit more open on a 4 door than a 2.
 
#3 ·
I've done these in this order.

  1. Engine/Transmission Skid (RockHard)
  2. Transfer Case Skid (RockHard)
  3. Evaporation Canister Skid (Poison Spyder)
  4. Front and Rear Lower Control Arm Skids (Artec Front & TeraFlex Rear)

Next I'm looking at diff skids or gas tank skid as my stock gas tank skid is getting dented up.

If I had to do it all over again I would do my front and rear LCA skids after the engine/transmission skid and then everything else in the same order after that.
 
#4 ·
If you have a automatic transmission, I would get that covered along with a heavy duty oil pan or skid plate. Another part that's gets beat up is the evap canister. The stock transfer case skid plate works like a champ. Personally I would hold off on replacing the gas tank skid and pumpkin skids. I have beat the hell out of both and I only replaced the pumpkin cover with heavy duty ones. I have a 2008jku manual which was stock for 3 yrs before I did any mods and the only thing I covered is the evap canister. The stock skids do get dented but they hold. Off market skids add Extra weight you don't need.
 
#7 ·
I have a different view. Impacts on the oil pan and transmission pan are less common, but disastrous. Impacts on the JKU gas skid are very, very common. At least there is a skid, but it is relatively light weight. On my previous Jeep (as well as my new one) I've never dinged the evap, though it is possible. I've also heard of folks peeling off their stock diff covers. Some of the rock crawlers should respond, but I'd protect the oil/tranny first--unlikey to get dinged, but disastrous if it happens. You'll sleep better having a serious gas tank skid, but can likely get away without having it to start (with the understanding that you are going to really bugger up your stock skid). I'd do better diff covers (or skids) next, and transfer case after that. I think the evap can wait till the end.

FWIW, after reading tons of posts and taking to a host of folks, I did oil/trans, transfer, and gas tank skids, as well as diff covers. I also have a bumper (Rock Hard) that protects the sway bar. Given my intended use (not hard core rock crawling) I am stopping there until I see the need for something else.
 
#9 ·
I did mine in this order:

(Factory) Rubi rails...best investment ever.
1) diff covers
2) engine/oil skid
3) gas tank.
Still to do:
Evap, sliders, control arms.
I beat the hell out of the stock gas tank skid and I've repeatedly been thankful that I have the bombshell diff covers... There are some nasty rocks out there!!
Biggest damage-limiter is the rails by far though. I smack them hard 3-4 times per trip, so 6-8 times per month. Worth their weight in gold. I'd have a bill for a new body by now without them
 
#11 ·
Make sure you actually get diff covers and not just skids.. The skids will still run the risk of being torn off if you have to back off (or slide off) a rock.
 
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