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Old 06-29-2013, 01:57 PM   #1
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Small body lift adding to 2.5

I currently run the TF 2.5 spring and shock lift. Looking to get discos and would like more room for articulation. Understand that flat fenders would be the way to go and looking to cut mine but was wondering if its possible to add a 1-1.5 body lift. What would need to be replaced to do this?

Thanks in advance for any help

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Old 06-29-2013, 02:13 PM   #2
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why not just add some spacers an save yourself some trouble. just add a 1" coil spacer to the front and rear. its cheap, easy, an much more reliable then a body lift

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Old 06-29-2013, 02:16 PM   #3
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why not just add some spacers an save yourself some trouble. just add a 1" coil spacer to the front and rear. its cheap, easy, an much more reliable then a body lift
Doy!! No worries extending anything with this?
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:32 PM   #4
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shouldnt be. maybe longer sway bar links but they may not be needed depeing on what the length of them are set up for and possible longer brake lines
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:10 PM   #5
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I put on the RC 1.25 body lift. Took about half a day to install because you have to do a little modification to the stock mounts. M.O.R.E. makes a nice 1'' aluminum puck BL. You just take out the body mount bolts and jack up the cab and slip the pucks in.
The 1'' coil spacer is also a good idea, but then you may start causing other problems with handeling and possibly drive shaft issues getting up over 3''.
I have a 2.5 suspension lift and the 1.25 BL and the thing drives like the day I drove it off the lot.

Man, I'm telling you, sway bar discos are the way to go offroad. I have an ARB locker in the rear and none in the front, but if you can get that extra articulation and keep both front tires in contact with the ground and let the BLDS do it's job it's amazing how much more traction you can get with the front disconnected. I have the Rough Country 0-2.5'' disco's and its the best $59 I ever spent.
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:18 PM   #6
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Teraflex makes an easy 1.25 body lift that looks simple to install. The great thing about a body lift is that you arent jacking up your drive line angles. I dont know what people keep saying about reliable??? Whats not reliable about a body lift? Especially 1.25". You add 1.25 spacer on top of a 2.5 inch spring now that gets you into trouble with driveline angles. IMO
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:27 PM   #7
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I just put on a 3" BDS lift & was wondering about adding the Teraflex body lift too... From everything I've read it sounds like we really wouldn't have to replace anything. Just jack the body up & stick in the pucks. I hope it's that simple. I have a ton of experience with lowering vehicles but lifting is a totally different universe to me, .
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:43 PM   #8
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Any side rails that bolt to the frame via the body mounts could need modification. I had to get longer body mount bolts to get my ACE rock rails bolted back up.
Also remove the metal brake lines from the attachment points on the frame before jacking the cab up (learned that on the first side).
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoadCam09 View Post
why not just add some spacers an save yourself some trouble. just add a 1" coil spacer to the front and rear. its cheap, easy, an much more reliable then a body lift
After reading the guys above.. Why do you say the coil is more reliable than the body puck.

Thanks for the info btw guys.
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:14 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by damndirtydog View Post
I put on the RC 1.25 body lift. Took about half a day to install because you have to do a little modification to the stock mounts. M.O.R.E. makes a nice 1'' aluminum puck BL. You just take out the body mount bolts and jack up the cab and slip the pucks in.
The 1'' coil spacer is also a good idea, but then you may start causing other problems with handeling and possibly drive shaft issues getting up over 3''.
I have a 2.5 suspension lift and the 1.25 BL and the thing drives like the day I drove it off the lot.

Man, I'm telling you, sway bar discos are the way to go offroad. I have an ARB locker in the rear and none in the front, but if you can get that extra articulation and keep both front tires in contact with the ground and let the BLDS do it's job it's amazing how much more traction you can get with the front disconnected. I have the Rough Country 0-2.5'' disco's and its the best $59 I ever spent.
I'm thinking of going the route of arb air locks too, do you think the front are needed? And I was also thinking jks discos, you mentioned 0-2.5 on the rough countries, what do you mean by that?
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:21 PM   #11
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Any side rails that bolt to the frame via the body mounts could need modification. I had to get longer body mount bolts to get my ACE rock rails bolted back up.
Also remove the metal brake lines from the attachment points on the frame before jacking the cab up (learned that on the first side).
What brand body lift did you get? I got the ACE rock sliders too.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:19 AM   #12
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I decided to put the full locker in the rear since the D44 is the stronger differential, plus you lose some steering control with the front totally locked. I got a killer deal on the D44 ARB and would like another for the front, but can't do the $900 to $1000 price tag. I'm planning to put a Truetrac LSD in the front D30 very soon, those can be picked up for $375. As it is now, I've been able follow all my buddies with Rubicons anywhere and have actually done better than the Rubi's with my current set up.

Rough Country makes 2 size discos. 0"-2.5" and 2.5"-6". the 0-2.5 is what I bought. The other would be way to long.
I did like the JKS a lot, but the RC does the same thing for $90 less.

Teddy, there are no reliability issues for a body lift spacer, once it's bolted in....it's bolted in, there's no moving parts. Sounds reliable to me. Recheck torque on the 8 bolts once or twice after the lift.
I used the Rough Country 1.25 BL. You'll have to pull the mounts out and do a little modification. I did like the price of this kit and I also liked the raised rear bumper mounts included with the kit so you dont have a gap between the rear bumper and tailgate. (re:It Felt So Good)You're going to need longer body mount bolts probably with any brand BL you use, I tried every way to avoid it, but nothing worked to get the rails to bolt back on with enough thread through the rail and frame and into the cab mounting plate. But try the stock bolts first, you may have enough with a 1" BL opposed to the 1.25" that I installed. The Teraflex and M.O.R.E may mount quicker to install, it looks like you don't need to modify the stock mounts with those. You can order the bumper brackets seperate from RC if you go with another brand and dont like the gap between the bumper and tailgate.

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