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Old 06-26-2013, 09:33 AM   #1
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Sorry, another lift question...

Hey everyone, I have been reading the forums and reviews on a few different lift kits now for about two weeks. I know there are threads out there but some of them seem kind of old, so I decided to start a different one.

I have a 2007 Sarah Unlimited AUTO with 4.10 gears and stock everything. I want the ability to do mild off-roading with only 33's-not looking to re-gear for a few years-so the max lift I want is 2.5".

The wheels I found are backspaced 4.28" and the tires I am going to go with are 33x12.50 (or 11.50) 17's duratrac or Toyo Mt's.

Not a daily driver, only drive the Jeep about 100 miles a weekend if that.

A lot of people say BB, but I am thinking coil lift. Is a RC 2-1/2" lift OK or should I do Teraflex? Rubicon Express?

Or is it OK to do a BB?

Anything will help. Thanks!

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Old 06-26-2013, 07:02 PM   #2
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Okay, I would steer clear of RC first and foremost.

I typically recommend a spring lift over a spacer for the vast improvement in ride quality over stock and because most quality spring lifts will not sag after adding a bumper, winch or anything else to it.
If adding weight is not in the cards and you are happy with the stock ride then go budget boost.
I am a firm believer that a lifted jeep should ride and handle better than stock.
I typically recommend teraflex and aev. Well designed and great ride quality. Rub exp is good too and there are several other good lifts out there as well. I'm sure there will be quite a few more responses to this.

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Old 06-26-2013, 07:05 PM   #3
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Of the choices you gave Teraflex. But I'd recommend looking at Old Man Emu.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:09 PM   #4
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what jrussblues said. it will mostly depend on your budget too.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #5
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what jrussblues said. it will mostly depend on your budget too.
Obviously cheapest is best for me right now but don't want junk. Is there anything cheaper than tf and just as good?
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:14 PM   #6
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I think that a leveling kit and those wheels would be fine.. Been running mine with 35's for a year and been happy so far. It's time for me to do a proper lift though..

btw.. how do you have 4.10s on a sahara? I wasn't aware that that was even an option
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:28 PM   #7
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I think that a leveling kit and those wheels would be fine.. Been running mine with 35's for a year and been happy so far. It's time for me to do a proper lift though..

btw.. how do you have 4.10s on a sahara? I wasn't aware that that was even an option
It was an option on the 2007 and 2008 Sahara's.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:30 PM   #8
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I think that a leveling kit and those wheels would be fine.. Been running mine with 35's for a year and been happy so far. It's time for me to do a proper lift though..

btw.. how do you have 4.10s on a sahara? I wasn't aware that that was even an option
Sorry, 4.10 was an option on the 2007 auto's only.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #9
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Would this be OK or would I need something else?

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits..._pn=TER1352000
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:57 PM   #10
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Any word on this lift? Comes with shocks. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...t_pn=EXPK3099B
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:03 PM   #11
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I'm also at the researching lifts stage. Right now I'm thinking OME HD 2.5 on my JKUR.
I would love to know if this lift is sufficient in the parts that you get, just basically new coils and shocks. There are lots of other 2.5 kits that seem to replace many other parts (at much higher cost) and I'm wondering how much you would be missing out on with just the OME lift. i.e. is my DD going to suffer? Based on what others think of the OME, I'm guessing no, but hoping someone can chime in with some good data.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:13 PM   #12
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i personally wouldn't go with any 2.5+ lift without some sort of adjustable front control arms. I'm doing my 2.5 RK stock mod this weekend and picked up a set of MC UCAs so I can adjust the caster. I went for the OME long travel shocks because of all the good feedback.

If anyone is interested in a teraflex leveling kit I know a guy who will have one available this weekend :cough:cough:
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:20 AM   #13
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I'm also at the researching lifts stage. Right now I'm thinking OME HD 2.5 on my JKUR.
I would love to know if this lift is sufficient in the parts that you get, just basically new coils and shocks. There are lots of other 2.5 kits that seem to replace many other parts (at much higher cost) and I'm wondering how much you would be missing out on with just the OME lift. i.e. is my DD going to suffer? Based on what others think of the OME, I'm guessing no, but hoping someone can chime in with some good data.
This kit does not address the sway bar end links and leads to a lot of body roll in on road cornering...Ome makes great stuff but its the reason I never suggest their lifts. Nothing worse than finding out you need extra parts to make something ride nicely.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:26 AM   #14
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i personally wouldn't go with any 2.5+ lift without some sort of adjustable front control arms. I'm doing my 2.5 RK stock mod this weekend and picked up a set of MC UCAs so I can adjust the caster. I went for the OME long travel shocks because of all the good feedback.

If anyone is interested in a teraflex leveling kit I know a guy who will have one available this weekend :cough:cough:
Typically no caster adjustment is needed at that lift height.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:37 AM   #15
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Typically no caster adjustment is needed at that lift height.
Not needed, but nicely recommended. Just like you dont need longer sway bar links, or center the trackbars with a bracket or adjustable bars, or extended bumpstops, or relocate brake lines, or adjust the toe, or center the steering wheel.

Sure, if the jeep will never see highway or long pavement roads, caster is overrated. Its probably not even needed at 3.5" for these 98% offroad conditions, screw the pinion angle.

This 4wheelparts marginal kind of mentality is stressing me out, surry
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:28 AM   #16
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Not needed, but nicely recommended. Just like you dont need longer sway bar links, or center the trackbars with a bracket or adjustable bars, or extended bumpstops, or relocate brake lines, or adjust the toe, or center the steering wheel.

Sure, if the jeep will never see highway or long pavement roads, caster is overrated. Its probably not even needed at 3.5" for these 98% offroad conditions, screw the pinion angle.

This 4wheelparts marginal kind of mentality is stressing me out, surry
Based on what you are saying, it sounds like the TF 2.5 is better suited to handle these needs as it does come with rear sway links and move the existing rears to the front, does come with rear trackbar bracket, does come with extended bumpstops and a brake line relocation bracket.

Is this what you're hinting at?
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:10 AM   #17
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Basically what I get from this post and any other posts is that Teraflex, EMU, Rubicon Express and Rock Krawler are the clear-cut favorites for coil lifts.

So, that being said...what one of those can I get for under $800 that includes EVERYTHING I need?

Remember, I am primarily driving on hwy. 95%/5% (off-road)
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:56 AM   #18
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....

So, that being said...what one of those can I get for under $800 that includes EVERYTHING I need?

Remember, I am primarily driving on hwy. 95%/5% (off-road)
DON"T BE A CHINTZ! Why compromise the handling of your $30k Jeep over a couple of hundred dollars. I respectfully say to you and every other Jeeper that starts dipping their toes into the pool of lifts; Don't be a chintz!

AEV 2.5 lift - $1000 includes everything incl. shocks and geo correction brackets. if you're doing 95% hwy., its the best solution for price, quality, and performance. Don't chintz on suspension. As always, you get what you pay for.
We will all argue till the cows come home about which brand is the best. If you can read, then there a literally hundreds of threads asking and answering this very question. If you're paying any attention at all, you will note that TeraFlex & AEV are the favored lifts at 2.5". You'll get a smattering of others chiming in for EMU, RK, and on & on..

Spend $1000, get TeraFlex or AEV, and enjoy. You'll never regret paying more for quality.

Take short cuts and you will likely pay, unless you know what you're doing. By the very existence of this thread, you're in the category of "not knowing".

Heed the words of experience, Grasshopper!
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #19
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #20
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You'll be fine with the TeraFlex 2.5" lift. We've been running them since 2008 with no issues.. Solid Kit and has all the required parts to handle properly on and off road..
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:49 AM   #21
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:42 PM   #22
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DON"T BE A CHINTZ! Why compromise the handling of your $30k Jeep over a couple of hundred dollars. I respectfully say to you and every other Jeeper that starts dipping their toes into the pool of lifts; Don't be a chintz!

AEV 2.5 lift - $1000 includes everything incl. shocks and geo correction brackets. if you're doing 95% hwy., its the best solution for price, quality, and performance. Don't chintz on suspension. As always, you get what you pay for.
We will all argue till the cows come home about which brand is the best. If you can read, then there a literally hundreds of threads asking and answering this very question. If you're paying any attention at all, you will note that TeraFlex & AEV are the favored lifts at 2.5". You'll get a smattering of others chiming in for EMU, RK, and on & on..

Spend $1000, get TeraFlex or AEV, and enjoy. You'll never regret paying more for quality.

Take short cuts and you will likely pay, unless you know what you're doing. By the very existence of this thread, you're in the category of "not knowing".

Heed the words of experience, Grasshopper!

Jeep was only $13K after trade LOL. I hear ya, I may just wait then to save up some extra coin for the AEV.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:59 PM   #23
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Not needed, but nicely recommended. Just like you dont need longer sway bar links, or center the trackbars with a bracket or adjustable bars, or extended bumpstops, or relocate brake lines, or adjust the toe, or center the steering wheel.

Sure, if the jeep will never see highway or long pavement roads, caster is overrated. Its probably not even needed at 3.5" for these 98% offroad conditions, screw the pinion angle.

This 4wheelparts marginal kind of mentality is stressing me out, surry
Okay, so there is a lot going on here.

1. Please feel free to verify this but front pinion takes a back seat to caster. Caster comes first in the front.
2. Front adjustable uca's are not needed or recommended because the 2.5 doesn't throw caster out of spec.
3. Longer end links are needed not recommended, which is why I keep any rear take offs I can get to sell to those who have bought Ome, older re and other incomplete lifts and don't understand why their jeep doesn't handle well.
4. I think the dig at the end is funny, if you can't tell from #3, one of us does this for a living.

I have no problem explaining things and helping out, but lets keep it helpful and not result to snarky comments because you disagree.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:03 AM   #24
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Basically what I get from this post and any other posts is that Teraflex, EMU, Rubicon Express and Rock Krawler are the clear-cut favorites for coil lifts.

So, that being said...what one of those can I get for under $800 that includes EVERYTHING I need?

Remember, I am primarily driving on hwy. 95%/5% (off-road)
Teraflex will come with everything you need for about 740, aev is also fantastic. Next down would be rk followed by re, I wouldn't buy Ome without planning on spending extra for parts that they don't include.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:23 AM   #25
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Okay, so there is a lot going on here.

1. Please feel free to verify this but front pinion takes a back seat to caster. Caster comes first in the front.
2. Front adjustable uca's are not needed or recommended because the 2.5 doesn't throw caster out of spec.
3. Longer end links are needed not recommended, which is why I keep any rear take offs I can get to sell to those who have bought Ome, older re and other incomplete lifts and don't understand why their jeep doesn't handle well.
4. I think the dig at the end is funny, if you can't tell from #3, one of us does this for a living.

I have no problem explaining things and helping out, but lets keep it helpful and not result to snarky comments because you disagree.
Oh lord jesus there is a fire, snarky comments vs seating high on a horse, wonder which one is worse. /Troll mode on

Now that we jumped to speaking on a broader base in an alternate topic line. Correct, caster comes first in the front... when using the stock driveshaft, and-or, when you do not have a low enough gearing to cause a driveline vibration, because a stupid misalignment in the pinion can be multiplied much more with a driveshaft spinning faster. Blow dem transfeh caseh nao. If they have to ask about it, there is a good chance they won't recheck when they regear, or swap the driveshaft, or even when the lift yields more than advertised, because they still believe caster takes over pinion. Thus, it generates people complaining about weird driveline vibrations in the front after lifting, regearing or installing a sweet new driveshaft. Not saying that pinion angle will come ahead always either, but there is usually that sweet angle between both that will give yoga-like harmony. So now, someone reads/hears that caster in front takes precedence and is stirred away from possibly finding the trivial answer to the driveline problem. But don't worry, I dont do installs for a living so I speak all lies. I got all this info from a gameboy color game.

Going back...

And yet, all the people I've seen, heard, read and personally helped about flightly steering on the highway or any long trip through solid roads with a 2.5 lift, be it RK, synergy, tera, metalcloak coils, are probably smoking pot 99% of the time, so much that when the caster is adjusted they have a purely placebo effect from the marihuana and exclaim "oh man, it holds so much better on the highway". Caster is changed, not drastically, but still changed. If you read carefully and try to understand, I never disagreed with what you said, I just applied your own way of thinking into other scenarios, where the point still stands.

You can very certainly run without longer sway links or replacing anything else other than shocks and coils, whatever you feel after that is subjective, the argument is not about how it feels, but whether how good is skipping things. If anything, what you posted is a fix and you are actually agreeing with me, not really much of a point actually. Its like me saying, I help those with a flighly steering by adjusting the caster angle, since they dont understand why their steering is a bit loose on the highway when going to work. Put some coils and shocks, it will run, now, how well, that's another topic.

I'm not disagreeing, my point still stands, JKs can run with incomplete mods, but is "nicely" recommended to "upgrade" other parts, to "avoid" problems in the future and-or to provide a better driving experience which you very well agreed on with changing the links, that you think sway bar links are more important than the pinion and caster angle is different. Its not like the sway bar has a dramatic massive change of angle on a 2.5 lift either :\ however, both body roll and steering changes can be felt on it.
Snarky comments are snarky comments, and trolling is trolling, neither is backing anything. But, you should take a few brain-steps back before posting "i do this for a living" on an internet forum, since that lost credibility many many years ago, it doesn't really prove anything. If I have to count the amount of people that do things for a living but don't do it well, I would probably need the entire US covered with server farms keep track of the count, and if I have to count the ones that lie, I would need the entire world covered. Not trying to discredit you in any way just in case, for what I know, you can be a fine-ass suspension installer. Kthnxbuhbai.

I'm not even going to read what I posted, sh*t is too long and is too late, grammar nazis beware.

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Based on what you are saying, it sounds like the TF 2.5 is better suited to handle these needs as it does come with rear sway links and move the existing rears to the front, does come with rear trackbar bracket, does come with extended bumpstops and a brake line relocation bracket.

Is this what you're hinting at?
Not really hinting on any brand, the more the parts it upgrades to correct geometry, the better. At least for me and for the people I have swapped stuff from stock. If you like TF for what it has, then I'm sure you will be happy. Many people run TF lifts and they work fine, not to mention is a well known brand.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:53 AM   #26
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If the max "actual" lift you want is 2.5" then BB may be the best way to go. At near stock weight likely your going to get at least 3" from any 2.5" coil lift. Rock Krawler, while awesome, seems to give a good amount extra for example. This is off there 2.5" coil lift site.

QUOTE***** 4 doors will generally achieve 3" of front lift and 2" of rear lift. 2 doors will generally achieve 3.5" of front lift and 2.5" of rear lift. These dimensions are based on fully upfitted JK's!

A winch and steel bumper will often lower the front 3/4". Skids would take it down a bit further for reference.

I would only get a BB from Rough Country, and then I would add at least a rear adjustable trackbar. Otherwise you axles are going to be around 1/4"-1/2" shifted sideways. I've heard a good amount of threads about the coils sagging over time.

3" and over from just reading through lots of threads, seems to be where you start needing extra adjustable parts, trackbar and lower control arms, and possibly shorter driveline life. In my opinion if you do a basic coil lift, especially at stock weight, you should have an extra grand stored away. Just in case issues pop up. My main worry would be a $500+ driveline failure. Of course there are 2 drivelines= grand. I think
the axles being a bit off center is driveable , so adjustable trackbars might be able to be dodged with extra lift. AEV makes lower control arm brackets for about $100 if the steering gets flighty. The trade off is that it lowers (or retains stock) ground clearance there. Coils are better for flex, but add to the mystery of "will it work for me" factor.

With 33" tires Teraflex Leveling kit (BB) should work for you. Without any doubt on-road. I would imagine even with the sway bars disconnected and flexing. That gives 2" in front and 1" in the back with a coil spacer. They only run about $130.
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:13 PM   #27
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Which teraflex kit comes with everything for 7-800 that we are talking about not the teraflex bb right?
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:03 PM   #28
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Which teraflex kit comes with everything for 7-800 that we are talking about not the teraflex bb right?
The spring lift with 9550 shocks is about 730-750 from most Tera dealers.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:21 PM   #29
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u could also do RE with monotube shocks. Get some discos, and aev geometry brackets for under a grand. If urs is a 2012, getter exhaust spacer. Still under a grand. A budget coil lift with a lot of room to upgrade. I'm not saying it cuz I have it...I'm saying it bcuz its the cheapest go route. Teraflex is a bit more and their using twin tube shocks. Aev is priced under a grand...the aev geo brackets will run u over a grand.

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