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Old 10-11-2011, 07:15 AM   #31
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@mr. sinister: thanks, i will give that try and report back.

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Old 10-11-2011, 07:21 AM   #32
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It's pretty easy to feel the slip, it will feel like you're taking your foot off the gas a bit.

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Old 10-11-2011, 08:06 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10to10 View Post
Well I'm having this same spark knock issue in my 2011 JKU Rubicon, but I have an automatc. I seem to notice it 2000 rpm to about 3000 rpm. Since I can't control shift points in an auto, wat can I do?

I've tried 89 octane instead of 87 but still have the knock. I only have 5000 miles total but this sound is pretty sick to hear on a 38K rig...sounds like an out of tune engine. I did bring it to dealer 2 weeks ago to get checked but they said everything is normal..ugg. I've done 3 oil changes of mobil 1 synth 5-20, new air filter, and even though the knocking is there, the perfrmance of the engine seems good. I will try 93 octane but frankly if it calls for 87 octane, I don't feel I should have to spend the extra cash to keep my new engine from sounding like an old out of tune engine...help?
What are you running for an air filter? Stock? Aftermarket? Just curious... if changing the gas coming in does not help, maybe changing the air will?
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:24 AM   #34
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What are you running for an air filter? Stock? Aftermarket? Just curious... if changing the gas coming in does not help, maybe changing the air will?
Well I just put in a STP air filter, but it is stock design..I didn't put any sort of CAI on it...paper filters suit my needs best for now...nothing fancy.

I'm going to try a tank of 93 octane next fill up, and if that doesn't work I have a station nearby that sells non ethanol 93 so I might give that a try as well.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:46 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10to10

Well I just put in a STP air filter, but it is stock design..I didn't put any sort of CAI on it...paper filters suit my needs best for now...nothing fancy.

I'm going to try a tank of 93 octane next fill up, and if that doesn't work I have a station nearby that sells non ethanol 93 so I might give that a try as well.
You sure it will be fine running a higher octane?

I just bought a banks CAI and it does help a bit at higher rpms.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:03 AM   #36
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just an update:
higher octane did nothing
the clutch is not slipping

decided that we need to regear...guess i'll have to hold off on the new bumpers and rock rails for a while.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:24 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracie
just an update:
higher octane did nothing
the clutch is not slipping

decided that we need to regear...guess i'll have to hold off on the new bumpers and rock rails for a while.
So "lugging" was the final answer?
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:53 AM   #38
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Try to get a video if it can pick it up with the camera.

I get a fuel ping/ knock that sounds exactly like Sins. I only noticed mine in 4 lo at higher elevation climbing some steep hills. If I let my rpms drop under 2000 rpms I get it under those circumstances. But never on the streets around where I live. When I drive around town I am also shifting between 2000-2300 rpms. I have no problems running the motor at lower rpms and have been averaging 18 mpg local city driving. I'd just look into other options before you regear, $1500 to do something thats not really needed since you have 4.10's seems a bit drastic.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:55 AM   #39
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something doesn't sound right. you shouldn't NEED to regear. even if it made the sound go away, you should find out what is causing the sound first.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:02 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHolliday
Try to get a video if it can pick it up with the camera.

I get a fuel ping/ knock that sounds exactly like Sins. I only noticed mine in 4 lo at higher elevation climbing some steep hills. If I let my rpms drop under 2000 rpms I get it under those circumstances. But never on the streets around where I live. When I drive around town I am also shifting between 2000-2300 rpms. I have no problems running the motor at lower rpms and have been averaging 18 mpg local city driving. I'd just look into other options before you regear, $1500 to do something thats not really needed since you have 4.10's seems a bit drastic.
The op has larger tires and is driving at lower RPM's we all no the 3.8 (cough) "power" is up in the rpm range.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:10 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
The op has larger tires and is driving at lower RPM's we all no the 3.8 (cough) "power" is up in the rpm range.
I can see that if it was 35's. But 33's on a smaller 16" wheel can't be much heavier then the stock 32's on an 18. the final drive ratio would be effected very little.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:18 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHolliday

I can see that if it was 35's. But 33's on a smaller 16" wheel can't be much heavier then the stock 32's on an 18. the final drive ratio would be effected very little.
Guess that depends on the tire/wheel combo but--

With a 6speed, ya--a regear is usually not required because you can shift at higher rpms.
I lug at or slightly under 2000 (stock) With 33's I would assume that you would have to keep it at 2300-2400 plus
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:10 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister View Post
something doesn't sound right. you shouldn't NEED to regear. even if it made the sound go away, you should find out what is causing the sound first.
all the research i did before adding the bigger tires suggested that i would not need to regear, but, there is not enough power at low RPM. spark knock or ping that occurs when accelerating or going up a hill, then goes away,(which mine does) usually means the engine is laboring, correct? so regearing seems to be the answer.



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Old 10-18-2011, 11:22 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracie

all the research i did before adding the bigger tires suggested that i would not need to regear, but, there is not enough power at low RPM. spark knock or ping that occurs when accelerating or going up a hill, then goes away,(which mine does) usually means the engine is laboring, correct? so regearing seems to be the answer.


Yep.

When I event move up to 33's I would go to 4.88's.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:30 AM   #45
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Actually going to 4.88's would give you a bit more pep, a little better than 4.56 stock. I can't wait to have the opportunity to regear to 4.88's and 33's. Going to 4.56 stock would be a waste of money.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:53 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracie View Post
all the research i did before adding the bigger tires suggested that i would not need to regear, but, there is not enough power at low RPM. spark knock or ping that occurs when accelerating or going up a hill, then goes away,(which mine does) usually means the engine is laboring, correct? so regearing seems to be the answer.



i thought we had ruled out spark knock?
a full tank of 93 should have fixed it, even if you are under an increased load. driving through deep snow or mud increases load dramatically, does the 3.8 ping in these scenarios as well? probably more load than a (not even http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit ) 1" increase in overall diameter.
if the 93 octane didn't cure it, i would seriously recommend having it looked at. it should not ping on 93 in any instance, larger diameter tires or not. something is not right. this isn't a high compression performance engine we're talking about. it still sounds odd to me. by all means do what you think is right, but don't be surprised when a regear doesn't fix the problem.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:40 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister

i thought we had ruled out spark knock?
a full tank of 93 should have fixed it, even if you are under an increased load. driving through deep snow or mud increases load dramatically, does the 3.8 ping in these scenarios as well? probably more load than a (not even http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCal...?action=submit ) 1" increase in overall diameter.
if the 93 octane didn't cure it, i would seriously recommend having it looked at. it should not ping on 93 in any instance, larger diameter tires or not. something is not right. this isn't a high compression performance engine we're talking about. it still sounds odd to me. by all means do what you think is right, but don't be surprised when a regear doesn't fix the problem.
Im thinking the op is using "ping or knock"
As an example--in that post.
Whatever the engine does when--well lets say start in 3rd gear from a stop.
I call it lugging, would there be a technical term for that? And that's what she/he is talking about.

So pinging or knocking has been ruled out.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:49 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10

You sure it will be fine running a higher octane?

I just bought a banks CAI and it does help a bit at higher rpms.
Well i put in 92 octae 2 days ago and I've noticed a few changes. First off my mileage has went from 16.2 to 18.6, which doesn't sound like much but it is a difference. Secondly I don't notice nearly as much pinging. I've only had about 180 miles in 2 days with the new fuel but think I'm going to start a new thread with my observations so no to distract from the OP's isues.
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Old 10-18-2011, 02:16 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10to10

Well i put in 92 octae 2 days ago and I've noticed a few changes. First off my mileage has went from 16.2 to 18.6, which doesn't sound like much but it is a difference. Secondly I don't notice nearly as much pinging. I've only had about 180 miles in 2 days with the new fuel but think I'm going to start a new thread with my observations so no to distract from the OP's isues.
Curious to see how that goes. I don't hear much of going to an higher octane unless a tuner is used
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Old 10-18-2011, 02:25 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10

Curious to see how that goes. I don't hear much of going to an higher octane unless a tuner is used
Yah I'm not sure what to think. I know the jeep is rated for 87 octane and without a tuner and 92 octane I was thinking I would see no results. To see over 2mpg improvement with no change in driving really has me wondering what's up. I've done lots of tuning on my motorcycles and I know what to or what not to expect so this change in the jeep has me very curious.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:58 PM   #51
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i just got a response from a club member ( jeep club i belong too ) and he said:
'Those new tires equate to 33x12.2. The first thing you need to do is get your speedometer recalibrated, your computer doesn't know what true speed and RPM you are doing so it doesn't know how to adjust the ignition. Hence the knock. It also isn't doing your mileage any favors.'


so this brings me back to one of my original thoughts which would a superchip programmer help. and it seems clear to me that spending the $300 to adjust my speedomoter, which is off by 2-3 MPH, will be worth it especially if it helps with the bigger issue.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracie
i just got a response from a club member ( jeep club i belong too ) and he said:
'Those new tires equate to 33x12.2. The first thing you need to do is get your speedometer recalibrated, your computer doesn't know what true speed and RPM you are doing so it doesn't know how to adjust the ignition. Hence the knock. It also isn't doing your mileage any favors.'

so this brings me back to one of my original thoughts which would a superchip programmer help. and it seems clear to me that spending the $300 to adjust my speedomoter, which is off by 2-3 MPH, will be worth it especially if it helps with the bigger issue.
I thought that's only for an automatic tranny?

I've never heard of anybody--with a manual trans-- going to a bigger tire and having anything but the odometer needing to be adjusted. A AEV procal will do that for you.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:37 PM   #53
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I thought that's only for an automatic tranny?

I've never heard of anybody--with a manual trans-- going to a bigger tire and having anything but the odometer needing to be adjusted. A AEV procal will do that for you.
got me, i don't know.

just to make things even more confusing check this out - The Official Superchips Forum

its worth a lookie-loo for me.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:55 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracie

got me, i don't know.

just to make things even more confusing check this out - The Official Superchips Forum

its worth a lookie-loo for me.
When going to a bigger tire-- yes your speedo/Odometer will be off.

Shift points will be off if you have a automatic trans, it will screw everything up like you are describing. It is different with a manual cause you decide the shift points.

A flashpac might work for you-- It will fix you speedo/odometer and might help with some of the lost performance you have with the larger tires. One positive is it's a lot cheaper then regearing. No guarantee that it will work, I've read mixed reviews.
If money is not an option I would still regear

I could be wrong here, I hope someone chimes in
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:14 PM   #55
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well, i just went and looked to see if by some miracle it was the heat shield ( see my link in last post ) but it wasn't. crap!

and yes, i knew the speedometer would be off moving to bigger tires.

i have a feeling that my husband is going to opt for the regear too, but i wouldn't mind trying the flashpaq first.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:38 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by tracie
well, i just went and looked to see if by some miracle it was the heat shield ( see my link in last post ) but it wasn't. crap!

and yes, i knew the speedometer would be off moving to bigger tires.

i have a feeling that my husband is going to opt for the regear too, but i wouldn't mind trying the flashpaq first.
I did not look at that link at first.
That's crazy haha

I just saw "flashpac" and thought you were eyeballing a tuner.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:50 PM   #57
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just an update:
higher octane did nothing
the clutch is not slipping

decided that we need to regear...guess i'll have to hold off on the new bumpers and rock rails for a while.
Don't know how much higher octane you run before making that decision but I am sure it will take a couple tanks to clear up that clatter.

It's funny, I didn't see your post before I posted about the same thing a few days later.

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Believe me I don't want to start a thread like back in June this year, What grade of gas do you use?. I just simply have noticed that my engine clatters a bit when I give it a little gas at lower RPMs. At first I thought it was the throw out bearing or something. I decided to try the higher octane gas and at the end of that tank the clatter went away. I ran another tank and all seems well. After two tanks of high octane I went back to the cheaper gas and after about 50 miles the clatter is back. I am now down to about 1/4 tank and think about going back to the high octane. I know this jeep should not need the premium gas.

It has about 44000 miles on it and I got it when it had 36000. Any suggestions?
I didn't get near the response you did here. There is a lot of good info in this thread. I think high octane fuel is the answer for me and probably you too. I am half way thru my first tank of 89 since running one tank of 87 and already I hear and feel a difference. I didn't mention before I am running 35's with a 3.21 ratio.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:34 PM   #58
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How many mikes you two have a your jeeps?

There are TSB's or recalls (not sure) on earlier JK's concerning bad spark plugs or mis gapped plugs from the factory. Would this cause a problem like your having?
I bought my 07 w/ 35,000, it runs fine but really suffered when hot. my idle is a bit choppy at times but runs ok now that the weather is cooler out. I know ambient air temp plays a role in performance--how much, I don't know. I been putting off changing the factory plugs. I put 3000 on it since I bought it. I guess these plugs can go 100k but I've always replaced every 30,000, Over kill? I don't care. I don't know what the symptoms are of plugs that are not gapped correctly or burnt up. Just looking at them will tell you a lot about how the engine is running.

Thought I would throw that out there and if it has nothing to do with our problems.i'll
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:17 PM   #59
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
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2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler triple rate 2.5" coils/RK rear TB w/ a teraflex raised bracket/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Synergy flipped draglink,ball joints,tie rod /Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/Rancho geo brackets/Ruff stuff uppers/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS/Artec front armor w/ Currie upper bushings/Rancho cat back exhaust.

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