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Old 02-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #1
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Sport towing capacity

I was looking to put a tow hitch on my 2013 sport. After some searching, I found this. Hitch Receiver, 3500Lb Tow And 350Lb Tongue Rating 82210230

I know that the sport is rated for only 2k based on the Jeep web site.

Anyone put this on their sport?

I plan on towing about 3800 lbs around a parking area, and maybe a local trip or two. No freeway driving.

Overkill? I see a lot of cheeper tow receivers out there, but I don't want to waste my money on too much towing capacity or too little.

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Old 02-23-2013, 09:27 PM   #2
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The fact that it's a Sport means nothing. The 2k rating is for the 2 door and the 3.5k for the 4.

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Old 02-23-2013, 09:36 PM   #3
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Sorry. I meant that it was a two door sport model, with the 6 speed stick and the 6 cyl engine.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:53 PM   #4
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Here's a much better deal: Quadratec Premium 2" Receiver Hitch with Wiring Kit & Jeep® Logo Plug for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Search for it through Google Shopping and get free shipping as well.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
The fact that it's a Sport means nothing. The 2k rating is for the 2 door and the 3.5k for the 4.
^This...

Quote:
Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
Here's a much better deal: Quadratec Premium 2" Receiver Hitch with Wiring Kit & Jeep® Logo Plug for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Search for it through Google Shopping and get free shipping as well.
^And this... (I have that Qtec hitch and harness myself)

(Or go through the hassle of PM'ing Qtec to get an order number to get free shipping, blah, blah, blah...)
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:03 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
The fact that it's a Sport means nothing. The 2k rating is for the 2 door and the 3.5k for the 4.
...Except for the 3.21 rear end 4 doors.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:16 AM   #7
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There's a reason why a 2 door is rated to tow 2000 lbs. Why do you think you should take the risk and tow almost double that. I'd love to be the lawyer that sues you when you cause a wreck.
Stick with the factory rating. Want to tow more, buy a truck.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:25 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by rirrgang
There's a reason why a 2 door is rated to tow 2000 lbs. Why do you think you should take the risk and tow almost double that. I'd love to be the lawyer that sues you when you cause a wreck.
Stick with the factory rating. Want to tow more, buy a truck.
/\ 2x This
Pulling 3800# with a 2 door??
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cphilip

...Except for the 3.21 rear end 4 doors.
Huh? Sports come as a 2 door version as well, and can be had with 3.73 gears . . . so Daggo's right--the "sport" designation is untethered to towing capacity.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:33 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by MTH

Huh? Sports come as a 2 door version as well, and can be had with 3.73 gears . . . so Daggo's right--the "sport" designation is untethered to towing capacity.
Just to clarify for this thread:
2 door is 2000# regardless of gears
4 door is 2000# with 3.21
4 door is 3500# with 3.73 and up

Model designation does not matter
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:53 AM   #11
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Huh? Sports come as a 2 door version as well, and can be had with 3.73 gears . . . so Daggo's right--the "sport" designation is untethered to towing capacity.
See Mcrocks explanation above. 4 doors with 3.21 are relegated to 2000 pounds. My point being is that NOT ALL 4 doors get 3500 rating.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:57 AM   #12
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I think you will be ok towing around the parking area as you stated, just take it easy.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cphilip

See Mcrocks explanation above. 4 doors with 3.21 are relegated to 2000 pounds. My point being is that NOT ALL 4 doors get 3500 rating.
Yes, I see now I misunderstood you.

I thought what you were trying to say is that by saying he had a sport, the OP was indicating he had 3.21s and a 4 door. I didn't understand you to be drawing a distinction among 4 doors.

Now I got it.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:18 PM   #14
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I was just pointing out the model designation was not a factor. I was going to add the gearing disclaimer, but didn't want to give Panthermark fits since we've been getting along lately.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mcrock View Post

Just to clarify for this thread:
2 door is 2000# regardless of gears
4 door is 2000# with 3.21
4 door is 3500# with 3.73 and up

Model designation does not matter
Do these numbers stay the same without the tow package? I don't have tow package but have a 4 door with 3.21. Trying to decide btw class III or class II.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:11 PM   #16
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Do these numbers stay the same without the tow package? I don't have tow package but have a 4 door with 3.21. Trying to decide btw class III or class II.

yup even with a tow package if you have 3.21's you can only tow the equavalant of a small tent trailer.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbot View Post
I was looking to put a tow hitch on my 2013 sport. After some searching, I found this. Hitch Receiver, 3500Lb Tow And 350Lb Tongue Rating 82210230

I know that the sport is rated for only 2k based on the Jeep web site.

Anyone put this on their sport?

I plan on towing about 3800 lbs around a parking area, and maybe a local trip or two. No freeway driving.

Overkill? I see a lot of cheeper tow receivers out there, but I don't want to waste my money on too much towing capacity or too little.
I think that Mopar receiver and the aftermarket ones that look like it are not up to the job of towing 3800 lbs. It is a Class II hitch that is at the limits of its design at 3500 lbs. (note that the description says it is only good for 2000 without a weight distribution hitch) Get a DrawTite Max Frame ClassIII/IV (same receiver sold as Hidden Hitch and Reese). It is also sold by Quadratec and they have the best price by far that I found on it.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I think that Mopar receiver and the aftermarket ones that look like it are not up to the job of towing 3800 lbs. It is a Class II hitch that is at the limits of its design at 3500 lbs. (note that the description says it is only good for 2000 without a weight distribution hitch) Get a DrawTite Max Frame ClassIII/IV (same receiver sold as Hidden Hitch and Reese). It is also sold by Quadratec and they have the best price by far that I found on it.
These work the same exact way as the mopar ones. The mopar ones bolt to a cross member which is thicker and stronger than the tubing used on the drawtite hitches to tie into the frame.

Both get tied into the frame, but the mopar one uses a stronger crossmember than added tubing. And the 4 Grade 8 bolts is more than enough to hold the hitch tight and support tongue weight
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:02 PM   #19
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Do these numbers stay the same without the tow package? I don't have tow package but have a 4 door with 3.21. Trying to decide btw class III or class II.
as others have stated... i'd recommend you go with the class III hitch. i've found the larger receiver works well not just for towing but random things...

-tongue weight - for steps, seats, grills... anything involving tailgating and the hitch mounted cargo rack...
-hitch receiver bike racks
-universal fitment when short handed and borrowing someones receiver or tow hook (if you've removed the stock tow hook) on the trail...
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:18 PM   #20
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These work the same exact way as the mopar ones. The mopar ones bolt to a cross member which is thicker and stronger than the tubing used on the drawtite hitches to tie into the frame.

Both get tied into the frame, but the mopar one uses a stronger crossmember than added tubing. And the 4 Grade 8 bolts is more than enough to hold the hitch tight and support tongue weight
I can't be sure from your post if we are talking about the same thing. The DrawTite MaxFrame attaches to the cross member just like the Mopar hitch does. It does not attach at the frame. MaxFrame is just a trade name for their high strength receiver line. It is made of heavier gauge metal and the receiver tube is supported differently in a better design for weight transfer than is the stock receiver. There is a reason it is rated as a ClassIII/IV while the Mopar is a Class II and if you compare the two you can see it. The DrawTite also sticks out a couple more inches giving better support to the draw bar (and reducing the need for an extension to clear the tire which really cuts down on capacity) and is drilled for both a 5/8 and a 1/2 pin. The price compares favorably with the Mopar while the quality and strength of the DrawTite is clearly superior and has a rating to prove it. As noted above, the DrawTite is the same as the Hidden Hitch and Reese of the same construction. Quadratec has a kit, I believe with a light adaptor and this hitch in the Hidden Hitch name. One can tell it in the picture from the standard design by the extended receiver tube.

I tow 4200 lbs with my JKU. I took off the factory receiver and replaced it with the DrawTite. I feel better knowing my receiver rating STARTS at 3500 lbs instead of topping out there.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:25 PM   #21
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I can't be sure from your post if we are talking about the same thing.
No you're right. I was thinking of a different hitch I saw online. That one does look good however I don't think the hitch is the weak point of the towing system. It does look stronger but I wouldn't say that putting that on makes me feel safer about pulling a heavier load. Bigger brakes would make me feel much safer than a bigger hitch
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:36 PM   #22
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No you're right. I was thinking of a different hitch I saw online. That one does look good however I don't think the hitch is the weak point of the towing system. It does look stronger but I wouldn't say that putting that on makes me feel safer about pulling a heavier load. Bigger brakes would make me feel much safer than a bigger hitch
Well, you may be right on the hitch. I would not be the first Jeeper to take off a factory part and replace it with an aftermarket one when the factory one was completely up to the task .

I don't think anyone should be towing 3000 plus without some supplemental brakes. Many states require them at lower limits than that. I have brakes on my boat trailer and my utility. I had to wire up a Prodigy controller and 7 pin for the utility with a 5 pin for the surge brakes on the boat IPO the 4 pin.

It tows well, but towing a boat is a lot easier than an RV as the tongue weight is much lower and it has less wind resistance. I don't think I would want to pull a 4000lb RV.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:48 PM   #23
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I just took off my dealer supplied, cross member mounted hitch when my new bumper came in. The new bumper has an integrated hitch and mounts to the frame and cross member so the original receiver is now a paperweight in my barn.

PM me if you want it a lot cheaper than a new one.
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:59 PM   #24
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i tow a 2300 lb boat with a two door strictly local its ok not great but ok not so much the power or even the stopping straight but braking on curves it lets you know its there with the short wheel base and the high center of gravity 3800 seems like asking for trouble

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