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Stainless steel bolts. Bad idea?

7K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  EddieRod 
#1 ·
I've rebuilt a nonworking sway bar off a rubicon. As part of the rebuild I've repainted the entire assembly ( not just the bar).

I was thinking of replacing the stock bolts with stainless steel, just to dress it up a bit.

I did a little research and it seems stainless bolts aren't very strong?

Your input is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Grade 8 bolts are super strong and they are steel, just not as shiny. Have you considered them?
 
#3 ·
I wanted shiny. Hence the reason I asked about stainless. :)

I hate shiny on my rig but in this case I personally think the stainless would look good.

If they're a bad idea I'll just paint the stock bolts a different color and call it done.
 
#4 ·
Sorry! What about a chrome nail polish on the head of the bolt? No overspray and it comes with a detail brush. :)
 
#5 ·
LOL. I suppose that could be done, BUT that would require me going out and buying nail polish.

That ain't gonna happen bub. :rofl:
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
They just hold the halves of the assembly together.

I don't see an issue personally with going stainless but I like to get opinions to make sure I'm not missing something.
 
#11 ·
I personally would use them there. I don't see a problem with that.

Where not to use them:
Corvette Forum - View Single Post - Replacing Chassis/Suspension Bolts with Stainless

For example, I wouldn't use stainless for things like crankshaft pulley bolts, bolts holding the engine to the transmission case, bolts for the control arms, track bar, etc. Why? Because they are under constant stress (and I'm not referring to just the clamping force that any bolt would be under when secured to a threaded hole or a nut).

But as for the bolts simply holding the electrical disco assembly case together, I really don't think those bolts are going to be under a lot of stress. To me, that would be like the bolts holding a throttle body to an intake manifold.

Do you know the thread pitch and dimensions of the bolts in question? Can you post a pic of one? What would look pretty killer is using stainless steel allen head cap screws. :)

 
#12 ·
Don't know the pitch or dimensions. Will find out tomorrow when I stop by the hardware store.

I also read something that recommended using anti sieze on stainless. Thoughts?
 
#21 ·
I would not use stainless on anything if I did I would use lots of anti-seize as stainless tends to gall more then other materials. I learned my lesson long ago using stainless fasteners on motorcycles. Stainless not only is more brittle and less strong it is hard to drill to remove when one breaks.
 
#23 ·
Think I'm just going to go with steel and not worry about stainless.

My local hardware store didn't have the correct size so I'll have to hit up HD after work.
 
#24 ·
Wow. Don't ever lose these bolts.

They're #15 metric, with a 10mm thread.

Only bolts I could find with this thread were #17 which is too large to fit into the recess in the housing.

Guess I'll just paint the existing bolts and call it done.
 
#25 ·
Apparently the existing bolts are an OEM size so they're impossible to find.

Ending up going with stainless hex cap bolts.

Auto part
 
#26 ·
I wouldn't use stainless on anything that is structural ever. They are just not very strong. Stainless will rust, it just happens to take longer than a normal bolt would. If you want something brighter that wont rust you can have all the heads powder coated any color you can imagine. The threads will be protected in the housing and only the bolt head would be exposed. You should expect to spend anywhere from $1 to $2 per bolt to have them done.

I have done 1000's of bolts for people. Anything from cars, to big rigs, to bikes. It always holds up better than stainless or other options.

A silver or a chrome would easily fit what you are looking for. I personally did all of mine textured black
 
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