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Old 07-21-2013, 04:49 PM   #1
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Ok so I'm about to purchase a lift kit and have questions on size. This is my daily driver and I want to notice my lift. I've heard 2.5" I won't and I should just go with 4". I will
Be running 33 tires and I don't want them to look stupid. Thoughts? I've also heard it will cause U-joint issues in the future if I do go with 4"?

Second part is what companies do you recommend for being on a budget? Are rough country good? Rancho? Help please

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Old 07-21-2013, 05:03 PM   #2
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Just messaged somebody regarding their wheel and lift because mine too is the daily drive and it looked to be what I wanted And pretty sweet. They were running 33 too With a TeraFlex leveling kit If that helps and his ride did not look stupid but rather hot

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Old 07-21-2013, 05:14 PM   #3
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Dude, you want to do it right the first time!....... You Gotta go Balls To Da Wall! Evo 4" Long arm with Evo coilovers. 37" Toyo's and every chick will be checking out your chit. If you want to run with the Big Dog's and you do not want to sit on your front proch any longer then stand up, pull your pants up and get ready! ($$$$$$$) It's gonna be a kick ass ride. Now let's go party like it's 1999!
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:23 PM   #4
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4" Lift and saving money are not to be combined - truly. If this is your DD and all you want is to look cool (which is how I interpret "noticing" your lift, sorry if I am off there) what you need to do is grab a decent 2.5 inch lift and throw some 35" tires on - maybe with some flat fenders. Definitely noticeable and WAY less involved than doing a 4" lift properly.

Understand that a 4" lift is going to significantly alter your Jeep's performance - if it is done well, this can be a real boon. If it's done poorly, you will have a Jeep that is miserable as a daily driver. Coming into it with the idea that all you want is to look good and save money is fine - lots of folks like that - but what is your budget, realistically?

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Originally Posted by Austin_FL View Post
Ok so I'm about to purchase a lift kit and have questions on size. This is my daily driver and I want to notice my lift. I've heard 2.5" I won't and I should just go with 4". I will
Be running 33 tires and I don't want them to look stupid. Thoughts? I've also heard it will cause U-joint issues in the future if I do go with 4"?

Second part is what companies do you recommend for being on a budget? Are rough country good? Rancho? Help please
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #5
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Dude, you want to do it right the first time!....... You Gotta go Balls To Da Wall! Evo 4" Long arm with Evo coilovers. 37" Toyo's and every chick will be checking out your chit. If you want to run with the Big Dog's and you do not want to sit on your front proch any longer then stand up, pull your pants up and get ready! ($$$$$$$) It's gonna be a kick ass ride. Now let's go party like it's 1999!
Do chicks really gawk at dudes in jeeps?
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:52 PM   #6
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People will complain about Rough Country being too rough, but I know a lot of people that run their stuff, and I'm about to purchase one, and it's really not bad.Saying you'll be running 33's, probably the best Rough Country set-up for you would be the 3.25" lift. It's cheap and great for on trails and daily-driving. It's also a quite bit cheaper so you can buy other Jeep things!
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:53 PM   #7
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Do chicks really gawk at dudes in jeeps?
Hell ya!
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #8
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Hell ya!
Bahahaha :-) nice! I must be the odd chick out
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:58 PM   #9
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This thread is a fail with the replies so far.

If your goal is 33s, look at a leveling kit or nothing more then a 2.5" lift.
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:01 PM   #10
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This thread is a fail with the replies so far.

If your goal is 33s, look at a leveling kit or nothing more then a 2.5" lift.
I don't see how it's a 'fail' when I replied to his thread with the same exact thing you had just mentioned
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:04 PM   #11
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Do chicks really gawk at dudes in jeeps?
Not sure if they are checking me out or my Jeep...
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #12
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who are you people? noobs?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:25 PM   #13
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who are you people? noobs?
Sorry, I felt it was okay since I already did my part.
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:26 PM   #14
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I don't see how it's a 'fail' when I replied to his thread with the same exact thing you had just mentioned
I was referring to about 50% of the replies
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:28 PM   #15
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who are you people? noobs?
People. like everyone else here. The last I checked anyway
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:37 PM   #16
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Age old debate... Everyone says something different, imo go with the 2.5 and 33's. There is far b/s involved.
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
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Age old debate... Everyone says something different, imo go with the 2.5 and 33's. There is far b/s involved.
Is there enough flex room for 33's on a 2.5"?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:11 PM   #18
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The static ride height does not determine the articulation or "flex" of a lift. That is the purview of the shocks and, to some extent, suspension linkages (i.e. control arms). Your static ride height, and thus your lift, determine you running ground clearance, approach and departure angles and break over angle. Tires determine clearance under your diffs as well as under the Jeep as a whole.

Thus why there are so many people that run a 2.5" lift and 35" tires. There are a few things to consider - what is your shock's collapsed length and how much bump stop does it require? How much clearance do you have to your fenders and does that require a bump stop? How much shock travel do you have overall and where in the travel range are you at static ride height?

Ideally, you want a bunch of complimentary answer to those questions. For example:

1.) I run tire size HIJ and I need XYZ inches of bump stop for my fenders.
2.) Oh, look, I need XYZ inches of bump stop for my shocks.

Wow! That means I can run a bump stop that protects my fenders and my shocks without wasting articulation (up travel)!

Now, when you start going bigger and with longer shocks you need things like brake line extensions, coil retainers (possibly), etc.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:24 PM   #19
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Right, I've already extended my brake lines before installing my 3.25 just because I'm afraid of stressing them when I flex out.
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:58 PM   #20
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2.5" lift for 33's and 3.5" for 35" that is what I would recommend.

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This is 32" with 4" lift, would be similar to 33's. IMO looks stupid.



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35" with 3.5" lift
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
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2.5" lift for 33's and 3.5" for 35" that is what I would recommend.

This is 32" with 4" lift, would be similar to 33's. IMO looks stupid.

35" with 3.5" lift
Happen to have what 33's look like on a 2 or 2.5? Def. do not want the huge gap
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:05 AM   #22
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Happen to have what 33's look like on a 2 or 2.5? Def. do not want the huge gap
This is 33" Goodyears on 2.5" teraflex with rancho 9000 shocks.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #23
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Happen to have what 33's look like on a 2 or 2.5? Def. do not want the huge gap

2.5 inches of lift (roughly) or more accurately in my case 25 inches from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the front fender.

on 33" tires without additional weight (like aftermarket bumpers) should look something like this (these happen to be 33" tires on 15" wheels, so they look a little chubby, rather than the new school look with the larger 17" wheels)

The camera was a little crooked in this shot, but I'm right around 25 25 on both axels.

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FWIW, I am a fan of using the least amount of lift required to run the tire you want to run and still allow full flex/stuff with swaybars disconnected. .
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #24
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@OP its all up to you on looks. Dont think about a 4" lift if yourr talkint budget, mostly DD, and seeing that youre in florida; there aint no rock climing. Plus again preference but 33 may look a tad small in the well of a 4" plus dude all the drive line parts go out of wack when your that high.

I run a 2.5 and have a heavy front armor and winch. 35" tires filled up the well so i cut the fenders flat for more of that gap look (looks lifted highrr) and more flex room
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:22 AM   #25
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From my research if it's a DD and the goal is the look of a lifted vehicle and larger tires I would say spacer lift/budget boost and 33's. That is entirely affordable as the cost would be about $1200-1500 in grand total.

Now a spring lift to 2.5" (shock extenders on stock shocks) is going to get you a little better ride a touch more flex and run you $1600-$2000 with 33's.

2.5" spring lift with shocks on 33's brings it up again to right around $2500 all in

2.5" spring lift with 35's now your either talking new rims or spacers which adds $300-$500 extra in tires and $700-$1200 in wheels (or $200 in spacers) grand total now is $3000-$4000.

you get where this is going...
Tack on another 1500$ to the last two to go 3.5" for supporting parts and driveshafts (although many state the JKU can run 3.5" without shafts but with some simple exhaust mods)

My suggestion would be budget boost on 33's, will look good raised up a bit, nice and affordable so if you end up not liking it for one reason or another it's little lost and if you want to upgrade the budget boost can be removed and sold during your 3.5" lift install but get ready to open your wallet pretty large if you go 3.5"
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:29 AM   #26
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if you're on a budget get rc's BB. I ran this over 2 years with 35's and didn't have any problems. It was my Daily driver also
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:46 AM   #27
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Okay, I admit, I skipped 90% of this thread. So, if this has been said, just move on passed this comment...

33's and 4" of lift, no way. It will be way to tall and you will have issues with the driveline at 4"...

If your going to offroad it, I would do 33-35's and a 2.5" coil lift. I would forgo the BB or spacers lifts especially if your planning on adding bumpers, tire carriers, etc to your setup. The stock coils are not rated for the heavier loads and will sag over time. I would look at something like this:
Rock Krawler JK 2.5 Flex System

It is a GREAT DD lift. It will run 33-35's without any issues. You will not have any driveline issues either. Plus, it will handle just about anything you could throw at it offroad.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! PM, email, or call us at anytime!

-Jason
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by live_slow View Post

2.5 inches of lift (roughly) or more accurately in my case 25 inches from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of the front fender.

on 33" tires without additional weight (like aftermarket bumpers) should look something like this (these happen to be 33" tires on 15" wheels, so they look a little chubby, rather than the new school look with the larger 17" wheels)

The camera was a little crooked in this shot, but I'm right around 25 25 on both axels.

FWIW, I am a fan of using the least amount of lift required to run the tire you want to run and still allow full flex/stuff with swaybars disconnected. .
See this i like!!! Thank you! There are a TON of "what's the right lift" on youtube, so i learned alot. The more lift, the more money required for other things.. Something I personally don't want.

Just want a little something like this. Getting the 33 dura on 17" rims. Want a little lift, but don 't want to worry about anything when it's done. Just drive. Thanks!!!
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:03 PM   #29
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Op... These videos are so so helpful.. And he's funny to boot :-)



Teraflex has so many

Hope this helps
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #30
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See this i like!!! Thank you! There are a TON of "what's the right lift" on youtube, so i learned alot. The more lift, the more money required for other things.. Something I personally don't want.

Just want a little something like this. Getting the 33 dura on 17" rims. Want a little lift, but don 't want to worry about anything when it's done. Just drive. Thanks!!!

Are you going to be offroading you JK? What do you have plans for down the road as far as bumpers and such go?

-Jason

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