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Old 02-11-2014, 01:02 PM   #1
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teraflex 2.5" to 3"...why so drastic!?

Ok so I hate to make another lift thread but after searching I'm having trouble finding an answer to my question. I'm also having trouble figuring out how to ask this question so bare with me...
OK I want 35s. bam
I want Teraflex. bam

so Teraflex 1251000 - TeraFlex 2.5" Lift Kit with Shocks for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec
Their 2.5 inch lift. Comes with shocks, springs and the little stuff.
None of the 2.5 inch lift options include the options for the flex arms..

ok

so TeraFlex 3" Suspension System with 8 FlexArms with Shocks for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
Their 3 inch lift. comes with shocks, springs, flex arms, and the little stuff.
you can also get the three inch lift with just the springs and shocks.

Here is where I get confused on what to do.

but first let me get this out of the way..
This will be a DD 99% of the time, But I still want to do this right in case I move or get into doing more trails.

My wallet tells me to get the 2.5 inch lift and a 1 inch body lift...
I know I don't need to do all of that to run 35s but I like the look of 3 inches of lift.

My brain says well if they are offering those flex arms and all the other stuff that comes with a 3 inch lift, then the 2.5" kit is taking the cheap way out and Im going to have problems....

its just such a big jump from 2.5" at 750$ to 3" at 2029$

and why is there a 3 inch with out the flex arms!?

Im sorry to make another thread but I promise I searched!

I just really don't want to fuzzy bunny this up

Any input about the ideal of the 2.5 with 1 inch body would be great
pictures if your bored. links. anything. Thanks for being patient with the noobs guys!

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Old 02-11-2014, 01:08 PM   #2
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First, I would stay away from a body lift. Never really been a good idea on a JK.

Second, you can do 35's on a 2.5" but if you want to do a 3", lets go 3"! LOL...

Teraflex and other companies make different starting points for their lifts. If you WANT a 2.5" with all 8 arms or 4 arms, we can build a custom TF setup for you. That is no issue. WHY you see the arms with the taller lifts is because the higher you go on the JK's the more out of wack everything becomes. The ARMS but everything back to where they need to be. There is more too it but that is basically why.

If you want, feel free to PM, email, or call us at anytime and we would be more than happy to talk lifts with you!

TERAFLEX

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Old 02-11-2014, 01:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrawlOff-Road.com View Post
WHY you see the arms with the taller lifts is because the higher you go on the JK's the more out of wack everything becomes. The ARMS but everything back to where they need to be. There is more too it but that is basically why.

-Jason
^^ this.

I went with tha same lift, the Teraflex 3" full flex arm kit.. ended up with very close to 3 1/2" from it.. I wanted to stay away from the 4" lift to hopefully save my drive shafts... so far so good..

I have about 8200 miles on it and do like it alot.. I went with Ranch 7000 shocks..
I am running 34's (took them off my first Jeep) I will probably go with 35's when I have to get new tires..


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Old 02-11-2014, 01:26 PM   #4
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so what Im gathering is...if I go with the three in lift.. it would but dumb not to go with all 8 arms just to keep everything in line?
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:36 PM   #5
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thats just the look I want jkjeepit! just trying to find the most cost affective way to get er done! thanks!
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmcw91 View Post
thats just the look I want jkjeepit! just trying to find the most cost affective way to get er done! thanks!
I'm no expert and did a lot of reading about lifts.
The research I did led me to control arms. After 2.5" things start going out to much for my comfort. I tried to build it to get it to where I had my 2DR which had a 2 1/2" lift. It's close but a little low as to the high centering spot
It was worth the $$$. But I also do a lot of off roading.
For me it was more for the function of what I wanted the jeep to do and the looks followed with it
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:20 PM   #7
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Depending on your budget, an alternative is to get the Rancho control arm brackets. They will correct things some on a 3" to the point you don't NEED CAs out of the gate. Especially if you don't go off road much. I have a different lift, but the CA brackets lined things up pretty good.
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:06 PM   #8
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Thanks for the pointers, I never thought about getting different CAs
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:05 PM   #9
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Go 2.5" I just ordered my kit with shocks. I had the same issues as you and this is my DD as well. From what I've read and heard from people, 3" may put a strain on your drive shaft not to mention its more $$$.
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:03 AM   #10
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I'll go against the masses here. A small 1" BL is ok if one truly feels they need it, but people need to consider "actual" lift height. Not what is listed on the kit. Coil rating/weight (bumpers/winch/Etc) play into how much lift the coils will get you. 3" of actual lift is about tops before you need to look at drive shafts, control arms, track bars, etc. The 1" BL will give you a small bump without messing with control arm geometry, but many will trim or run flat flares for the clearance if instead. Choose a tire size then lift. Generally 2.5" is about right for a 35" with stock flares. Research is your best friend http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/ne...jk-298665.html I posted this to help people like yourself.

I will add. Control arms can be run at any height. The adjustment allows you to tune in caster/pinion angles, centering the tires in the well and lessen bind as the suspension flexes. Typically aftermarket arms have better joints and bent for tire clearance. It's not uncommon for people to run all 8 short arms and longer shocks at smaller heights. This will allows the suspension flex and to work freely without binding. What's often done, adding a single set (front/rear) to adjust caster and pinion angles. Drop brackets are a nice addition, but You will sacrifice ground clearance if a concern.
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:02 PM   #11
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Thank you for taking the time Kjeeper and austin. The input is greatly appreciated!
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:04 PM   #12
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Which lift???

First of all, like Jason, I'm not a big fan of body lifts. Also, geometry correction is very important. Unfortunately, a lot of folks will let it go with "Well, it's only off a little.", or "It's not that much.", because of their personal budget constraints. I totally get that! However, the one piece of advise that I am constantly giving: Don't shortcut or settle for less! If you can't get what you want, WAIT! Save your money until you can afford to get the right stuff. When it comes to mods, in most cases it's not a necessity. So, be patient. Save up your money and get what you want the first time. Believe me, you will have enough mods that you will think, "Maybe I should have gone bigger." It seems to be our nature.

As for your dilemma, you don't have to get everything all at once. I started with the TeraFlex 2.5" Suspension Lift with Bilstein Shocks. Later I added the TeraFlex HD Track Bar, and most recently the TeraFlex Complete Flexarm Kit (8). This was all in preparation to add 315/75R16s (VERY SOON). I have done all of the mods myself. This is another consideration...are you going to do the mod installation, or will you have to pay a shop?

Whatever you decide to do, don't forget to post pics!
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:55 PM   #13
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Thanks for the input mpjdrizzt! I will probably follow down your foot steps ish. Now I'm looking into a crawler lift? I was told with 2.5" lift springs You get more "actual" lift than the teraflex lift. Specially since Im planning on beefy bumpers and such
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:44 AM   #14
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Hi. Rather than add another thread I thought I'd ask my questions here as well. I've got a stock 2011 sport.

What I think i want to do...

Primarily a daily(weekend) driver. I will get in some rough roads over the summer but nothing like that a stock jeep shouldn't be able to handle. So the lift is for looks.

2.5 inches of lift and 33's
keep my stock 16 wheels (budget thing)
1) is that a big deal? Is there a reason people move up to 17 or is it mainly looks? I see that there a ton more options at 17 but I'm not really that concerned with the looks of my tires.
The lift has me so damn confused and I have read as much as I can. example..besides the shocks and ~100 bucks, what's the diff between these two sets?
Rubicon Express Part RE7121M - 2.5 Inch Standard Coil Lift Kit with Mono Tube Shocks - - 4 Wheel Parts

and

Rubicon Express Part RE7121T - 2.5 Inch Standard Coil Lift Kit with Twin Tube Shocks - - 4 Wheel Parts

Like what??? If I want to keep the handling and ride as close as possible to the stock ride, is there something I'm looking for in a suspension kit that I should be identifying? I'm not partial to any brand..those two just seemed like easy compares.

Also, they both say easily upgradeable. Upgradeable to what? What would i be missing?

If in a couple years or a couple bonus checks later I move up to 35's how much re-work is involved. I beleive the 2.5 is enough for 35's though the jeep might look a little out of balance.

Finally..there's a lot of chatter about gear ratios that are way over my head. When I go into that store they're going to sell me a ton of stuff and me being afraid of creating a jeep that's going to blow up will most likely buy everything and then have remorse. Help me stop that? And last question..what's a flashcal?

I just want to go camping...thanks for any clear and dumbed down advice.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:55 AM   #15
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So many questions...

Masonthedog: I'm somewhat confused. You said you want the lift for looks, but then you said that you don't care about how your wheels look Your choice of lifts is pretty much endless depending upon what you want and how much you're willing to spend. 2.5" and 33's is a very common combination. It looks good and works well. However, you also stated that you might want to go with 35's somewhere down the road. 2.5" will certainly accommodate 35's.

Steel Wheels: (Just my opinion) spend a few extra dollars and get aluminum. They weigh less and are easier to maintain. You DON'T have to spend a fortune to get wheels that look good. Yes, 17" rims do give you more tire choices, but, tires get more expensive as your rims increase in size! I like 16", but again, that's just my personal preference. As an added note, 17" will allow you the room needed should you ever chose to go with a Big Brake Kit (larger rotors).

Mono vs. Twin Tube Shocks: It's all about the plumbing! And, plumbing costs money. You can Google this subject and get a wealth of information. Again, it's going to be determined by your performance needs in a lift.

Upgradeable: The ability to change, add to, or alter your lift. I have added a piece at a time to my lift, upgrading my lift as I go along. I also have the option of increasing my spring size should I have the need.

Gears: Gears can be quite an expensive mod! And, unless you are a very competent mechanic, you will need to find a qualified shop to perform this task! As for choosing the correct gears, it all depends upon what gears you're currently running, your tire choice (size), and your driving requirements.

Whatever you chose to do, research, research, research! Talk to others. Find out What they did, Why they made a particular choice, what they would do differently and Why.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:48 PM   #16
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I think i can ask my question more clear after reading your response.

Performance wise- is there an issue with having a 33x16 vs a 33x17. Sounds like the answer is no.

I should have said I'm not concerned with the look of the tires. I'm not one to spend +50 more bucks per tire on a set of 5 to get lettering or a specific brand. If that 50 dollars is material in the quality of the tire that's a different issue. though I have know idea where to find honest quality reviews of tires so i'll probably just stick with duratracs.

On my lift question, You're telling me that shock quality is the main determiner of the retail difference. Got it. I'll go read up on that.

Last one on gearing..when a jeep gets lifted/new tires does it automatically need new gearing or is gearing an optional thing depending on the purpose of the vehicle?, would probably be the way to ask the question. Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:58 PM   #17
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Gearing for tires...

Quote:
Originally Posted by masonthedog View Post
Last one on gearing..when a jeep gets lifted/new tires does it automatically need new gearing or is gearing an optional thing depending on the purpose of the vehicle?, would probably be the way to ask the question. Thanks!
This is one of the "Great Debates" here on Wrangler Forum! The really simple answer is not so simple. You definitely need to take numerous factors into consideration (some of which you have already mentioned).

Which Jeep do you have? Yes, it does make a difference. The year of your vehicle will tell you which motor (hp and torque numbers are different in the 3.8l vs. 3.6l). Your transmission (manual or automatic) will also make a difference, i.e. 4.10 and 35s is a common combo with a stick, while 4.56 is often the answer for an automatic. However, this can also vary depending upon how and where you intend to drive your Jeep.

So, is regearing something you're going to have to do? Not necessarily. I will give my personal situation. I am currently sitting on stock 32s and 3.73 gears with a manual. I am getting ready to order 315/75R16 (34.6"). This should be manageable (again...the Great Debate). Is this the optimal gear ration? NO! However, I'm doing this thing one step at a time. Eventually, yes, I do plan to regear and that will most likely be 4.10 and I's like to add lockers at the same time.

Now, let's look at this hypothetically. If, instead of 3.73, I was running 3.21 with my 32s, I would most likely already be at the very edge of tolerable performance. By increasing my tire size to 34.6, I would most likely be very unhappy with my rig's performance.

All of this (and more) is why it's tough to give a yes or no answer. This is a chart that should help give you an idea.
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:21 AM   #18
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My Teraflex Lift

Here is my Teraflex 3" lift with 8 control arms and 35's on my 2014 auto. I bit the bullet and decided to just pay for everything at once including a new drive shaft. I didn't want the worry about breaking down somewhere. The lift runs a little high. I got about 3 1/2" of lift.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:29 AM   #19
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I went with the Teraflex 2 1/2" and got 3" out of it. I still have the stock bumpers on though.
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