TF's paper instructions are a bit sparse and do need some updating to make things a bit clearer at certain points. However, I have seen where Teraflex has prepared some very nice instructional videos for installing it's 2.5" budget boost kit as well as it's 2.5" coil lift.
Lots of good info in each of these that can be applied to similar TF lift/leveling products. Probably need a couple comments added to the videos about some of the updated designs in their product lines.
The instructions have always driven me nuts. I work with "propeller heads" (Engineers) every day and when ever they are writing instructions I tell them they need to be written in a manner of making a peanut butter and jelly sandwhich. They all look at me like I'm crazy until I point out how it works. You cannot just put peanut butter on the bread. You have to pick up the peanut butter with one hand, use your other hand and put it on the lid. Then twist to open. Then put the lid down and grab a knife. Put the knife in the peanut butter container and swipe with the knife to put a tablespoons worth of peanut butter on the knife. Oh crap, forgot to get the bread out........see what I mean?
2012 Silver 2-Door JK. Smittybuilt SRC Side Armor, KC Hilites, Rancho Sport 2 inch lift, 285x70x17 Duratracs. DeceptiJeep.
Planning to do my TF 1.5 performance kit soon. Question: If I have just two jack stands and a floor jack -- how do I support the axle when the jeep is up on the stands ? Is axle support not needed ?
OK so I put the jack under the axle, but wheres the best location ?
Dumb question #2: Wouldn't it be easier to just use a spring compressor instead of unbolting everything ?
The reason for loosening the control arms etc is to avoid binding the bushings, in my opinion using a spring compressor is making the process much harder than simply unbolting the shocks and brake line brackets. Simply jack the Jeep up, put it on the jack stands then use the floor jack on the center of the axle... Unbolt the shocks and brakeline brackets and loosen the control arms and slowly lower the axle, then just pull the old springs out and put the new ones in... Shouldn't take more than a couple hours even for someone inexperienced. Honestly hardest part is retorqueing everything afterwards
"Opinions are like like a**holes everyone has one"
2012 jk 6sp
35" Hankook MT's, 1.5" RK lift, Rancho 9000's, bushwacker flatties, F&R Dana 44's w RCV's, chromoly shafts, 5.13 gears, factory lockers, Ace sliders & rear bumper, RR front bumper Q9000 winch