Teraflex QDC Swaybar link kit (Disappointed) - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:40 AM   #1
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Teraflex QDC Swaybar link kit (Disappointed)

So today I decided to install my Teraflex Quick Sway Bar Disconnect System on my 2012 JK 2 dr sport, what a PITA!


The kit came from ORW in San Diego, which I had recieved last week, and just hadn't had time to put it on till today.

The kit came complete with all needed items, along with instructions of which weren't even worth the paper they were printed on...

I'm guessing Teraflex revised the kits contents, yet never bothered to revise the instructions included with the kit.

I ran into a few issues one being that the bottom rubber bushing on the linkage is to wide for the machined shaft it sits on, making it impossible for the locking pin to be inserted, with out compressing the rubber bushing to death with channel locks. The second being the instructions all together. The kit shows the linkages having open ends, yet they were studded at the top, the included washers were a mystery as to where they go since they aren't even mentioned in the instructions.

Needless to say I got the kit on there, however it's still not a true "quick disconnect" system, since I will need to use channel locks to insert the pin every time along with a prybar to remove the bottom link from the QDC post. I feel I may have been better off undoing the 18mm bolt every time I DC and used the $120 for gas.

I am a pretty mechanically inclined person, so I am pretty darn sure it wasn't me. I just hope they fix these issues, so the next guy doesn't pull all his hair out and spend 4 hours doing an install that should have taken an hour according to the included instructions.


Sorry for the rant, however I needed to vent

I just hope the Teraflex 2.5 coil kit sitting in my garage is nothing like their QDC kit...


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Old 07-14-2012, 02:55 AM   #2
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Deleting post, swear I saw "JKS" in there somewhere. Derp.

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Old 07-14-2012, 03:33 AM   #3
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use some lube or grease on the post,,, mine slide on and off without any issues at all. the large washers are to put between the bushing and the quick pin. also they will wear in a bit.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:25 AM   #4
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Teraflex in my experiences have top notch CS.

I installed my 2.5 lift and later found out they don't use the frame side TB bracket in that kit. They upgraded to a stronger bracket that mounts to the axle.
I wanted to know what the difference was and was just going to buy the new bracket so I emailed TF.

I was sent the new bracket free of charge.
I guess there was a few stray kits that our there with the old bracket.

That was actually the second issue and They were quick to make it right.

Don't be afraid to shoot them an email or call. TF is awesome
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Teraflex in my experiences have top notch CS.

I installed my 2.5 lift and later found out they don't use the frame side TB bracket in that kit. They upgraded to a stronger bracket that mounts to the axle.
I wanted to know what the difference was and was just going to buy the new bracket so I emailed TF.

I was sent the new bracket free of charge.
I guess there was a few stray kits that our there with the old bracket.

That was actually the second issue and They were quick to make it right.

Don't be afraid to shoot them an email or call. TF is awesome
Yep they are pretty well known for making things right like this.
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:00 AM   #6
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There is nothing wrong here guys. That is typical of tight tolerances. After you drive the Jeep for a week the bushings will break in. You will still need to grab the pin with a channel lock, but would you want pins so loose they pull out easily.

Make sure the washer is on there. You do have the stud with two flats on the linkage right? Not the 4 flat upper stud that is used for storage when disconnected.
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:40 AM   #7
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I agree the instructions that came with the kit were terrible but the bushings do loosen up and the grease helps. I keep a rubber mallet in my tool bag and i used that the first few times but not I can do it by hand. I also have their 2.5 kit and we had no issues when we installed it.

Like Kjeeper mentioned you should double check that you received the heavier rear trackbar bracket with your 2.5 kit because a few of us received the earlier cheaper version but TF will send you the heavier one with the u-bolts if you contact them.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:18 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies guys. I took them off today to see if the bushing wore in some, however they were still a bear to remove. It took a pry bar to get them on and off. I did grease the zerks prior to installing them as well as after sliding them over the post. Still no luck, they are un removable unless you use a pry bar. Installing the pins were the same story. I took off the links and dremel'd the inside of the bushing just enough to slide them over the post with some muscle. I also filed some off the bushings side to be able to insert the pin by hand. I will give them a call on Monday to inform them on these issues anyway.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:25 PM   #9
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As for the studs, yes they are in the correct locations, large one for when the sway link is attached to the axle, small post for storage when not in use. You can't mix them up as the storage bracket is tapped to fit the smaller stud.

As for the track arm bracket, I am sure I got the most current version as the kit was drop shipped directly from Tera Flex on Tuesday.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:18 PM   #10
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What a coincidence I just put that same kit in yesterday. Ran into the same problems. Sucky instructions with unintelligible pictures, mysterious extra washers, and sticky disconnects. I finally did get it together before dark. I can get it disconnected/reconnected fairly quickly but I do need a crow bar to wrench it free.

Where you able to mount the storage bracket anywhere? If I mounted it where it was recommended the sway bar would be about 3" away. I'd really like to have that mounted so I don't have to zip tie each time.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #11
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I actually ended up sending my kit back. It was actually missing at least half the nuts & washers needed to full install everything and we couldn't even get the passenger side link onto the axle mount. A few months later I picked up the JKS kit and it was a breeze to install last weekend. It was missing nothing, and had excellent instructions.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:54 PM   #12
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all disconnects are going to be "sticky".

When you get the process down, meaning when you learn and figure out the tricks to taking off the disconnects it will get simpler as you go.

when i first installed my JKS quick disconnects I would always get lazy and not take off both sides. after a while i got use to it and now i'm so good at it that i can take both sides off in a matter of a minute and put them back on. i still have to use a hammer but i know the tricks and it's a hell of a lot better then wrenching.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodyaks
What a coincidence I just put that same kit in yesterday. Ran into the same problems. Sucky instructions with unintelligible pictures, mysterious extra washers, and sticky disconnects. I finally did get it together before dark. I can get it disconnected/reconnected fairly quickly but I do need a crow bar to wrench it free.

Where you able to mount the storage bracket anywhere? If I mounted it where it was recommended the sway bar would be about 3" away. I'd really like to have that mounted so I don't have to zip tie each time.
I thought the same thing about the storage brackets mounted to the body bolts but if you push the sway bar up past the brackets the disconnects will actually line up. The sway bar is so far up that the disconnects are angled about 45 degrees down instead of level or up.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:51 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kssting View Post
I thought the same thing about the storage brackets mounted to the body bolts but if you push the sway bar up past the brackets the disconnects will actually line up. The sway bar is so far up that the disconnects are angled about 45 degrees down instead of level or up.
Aha! Never thought to push the sway bar up. I'll have to check that out.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:28 PM   #15
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For anyone else in my situation. I just spent 10minutes trying to figure out how to tighten my disconnects onto the swaybar. The kit has been updated but the instructions haven't. Instead of reusing the stock swaybar bolts the bolt is built into the link now. I could not figure out how to tighten the nut onto the bolt because the bolt just spins in the link. Finally I noticed that there is a allen slot in the end of the bolt. Which means you can't use a ratchet to tighten it you must use a wrench. Pain in the ass if you ask me.
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:39 PM   #16
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Oh another question. Do i actually need to grease this single bushing? There was already some white grease in there when I got the kit. I'd rather save the $20 on buying a grease gun if its not needed.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
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For anyone else in my situation. I just spent 10minutes trying to figure out how to tighten my disconnects onto the swaybar. The kit has been updated but the instructions haven't. Instead of reusing the stock swaybar bolts the bolt is built into the link now. I could not figure out how to tighten the nut onto the bolt because the bolt just spins in the link. Finally I noticed that there is a allen slot in the end of the bolt. Which means you can't use a ratchet to tighten it you must use a wrench. Pain in the ass if you ask me.
I just installed this on a stock 2013 JKU Sport S (17" wheels), and this tip was incredibly helpful; thanks!

I noticed that the sway bar is pretty far "up", as the jeep has a stock ride height. Moreover, the sway bar can't rotate much further, as it seems to run into a tubular cross rail that is part of the frame. Is this normal? I did a quick test drive on some bumps, etc., and it didn't seem to "crash" but it doesn't seem quite right.

Along the same lines, I cannot figure out how to get the sway bar into the disco'd, locked position. Due to the tubular cross rail, I have limited ability to further rotate the sway bar up. What am I missing, here?

Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:38 PM   #18
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I had some of these issues with my Teraflex swaybar disconnects. I called them and they quickly acknowledged the problem and sent me two new parts they call pins, I would call them the part that the sway bar slides onto and is connected to at the bottom end.

My problem was the sway bar was almost impossible to remove because this "pin" was either to large or the rubber bushing was too small. Tereaflex said these new pins were smaller.

I got the parts in a couple of days and now everything works perfect. If anyone else has this problem, just call Tereflex, explain your issue to customer service. In my case it was super easy to change out and free. The tech support and phone service excellent.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DitPun View Post
I noticed that the sway bar is pretty far "up", as the jeep has a stock ride height. Moreover, the sway bar can't rotate much further, as it seems to run into a tubular cross rail that is part of the frame. Is this normal? I did a quick test drive on some bumps, etc., and it didn't seem to "crash" but it doesn't seem quite right.

Along the same lines, I cannot figure out how to get the sway bar into the disco'd, locked position. Due to the tubular cross rail, I have limited ability to further rotate the sway bar up. What am I missing, here?

Thanks!
I got the exact same issue. The swaybar seems to touch the tubular part of the frame, preventing me from pushing the swaybar up far enough to be able to "park" the quick disconnects in their supports. Will I have to grind the tubular part to make way? I don't like to grind this part because of the rust issue, but if nothing else helps... The swaybar seems to be out of alignment, I tried to push it from side to side to make it pass, to no avail yet. Otherwise, the kit is great, but the swaybar does not go high enough to park it.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:36 PM   #20
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About to install these tomorrow morning. From what I'm reading it sounds like I am going to be frustrated! Question for everybody, where did you use the thin washer? I have thick washers for the nut side of the bottom pin bolt, thick washers with big openings for on the bottom pins, and then some thin washers. Also, there aren't any thick washers for the top integrated bolt. Did you use the thin one here or use no washer? Only other place to possibly use it is on the storage pin bracket.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DitPun View Post

I noticed that the sway bar is pretty far "up", as the jeep has a stock ride height. Moreover, the sway bar can't rotate much further, as it seems to run into a tubular cross rail that is part of the frame. Is this normal? I did a quick test drive on some bumps, etc., and it didn't seem to "crash" but it doesn't seem quite right.

Along the same lines, I cannot figure out how to get the sway bar into the disco'd, locked position. Due to the tubular cross rail, I have limited ability to further rotate the sway bar up. What am I missing, here?
Update on that issue: I did email TF about this, since I got the same problem. Their answer was that I needed to grind this tubular cross-rail to avoid having it interfere with the sway bar. I caved in finally and I did, and everything works now. Details of their email and pictures: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ter...em-242986.html

Good luck!

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