Teraflex Quick Disconnect problem - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 05-16-2013, 07:34 AM   #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Teraflex Quick Disconnect problem

I've just installed a Teraflex sway bar quick disconnect kit on my 2009 JKU, and the kit seems solid, is relatively easy to install and fits well. The instructions coming with the kit are not clear though, they say add a washer there, but they don't specify which, and it took me a few minutes to understand where to attach the "park" bracket to park the disconnected link.

The problem is that when I disconnect the link, it becomes loose and could hit other parts of the suspension. Teraflex added a "parking" bracket to attach the link to the frame of the jeep, so it would not move, no clunks and not interfere with the suspension. The problem is that I cannot use the park bracket since the sway bar does not go high enough to allow me to park the disconnected link. The sway bar seems to hit the round part of the frame and cannot go further up. I attached a picture to show the problem.

My question to you guys is: did you encounter this problem? If so, how did you solve it? By grinding the round tube of the frame? I don't like this option since I live in Canada and rust is a constant enemy, but if there is no other option...

I also tried to "re-align" the sway bar since it could be mis-aligned i.e. to much to the left or right and hit one of these round parts. It looks like it, but the clearance is so tight that even if I succeed to place it at a place where it won't hit one of the two round parts (one on each side of the jeep), a slight misalignment would bring that problem up again.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo annotated.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	202.0 KB
ID:	249756  

roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 07:51 AM   #2
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 34,179
"Round frame part" lol

Hey, how did you do that ?

__________________
2007 Rubicon/Rock Krawler TR 2.5 coils/rear TB/Rancho 9000 31/32XL shocks/Teraflex monster TB/Synergy highsteer,tie rod, ball joints/Hankook MT 315-75-16 on Level 8 ZX's/MC front SB links/Rancho geo brackets & shocks/Fox ATS stabilizer/Adams front DS/Artec front armor w/ Currie upper bushings=Frankinjeep from hell.

Lifting your JK? Read this!!



Click HERE to become a WranglerForum Supporting Member!
kjeeper10 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
Matador's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,575
I have the same exact disconnect links, but I didn't use the "Parking bracket" for another reason, tire clearance. My Tires would have hit the bracket during full articulation. Instead what I did while disconnected was wrap a bungee cord around the link, swaybar and frame. This ensures that the bar and link are out of the way and don't move around. You only need to do it to one side. On the other side I just sip-tied the link to the sway bar.

But I was still able to rotate the swaybar up and into the upper position, not hitting the "Round Frame part".
__________________
-Lou
'12 JK Rubicon
Matador is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 08:48 AM   #4
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 4,464
The washer goes on the outside of the lower link prior to setting the cotter pin. It also helps do grind the pin down to a point. Makes it easier to reinsert.

And be sure to tighten the crap out the lower mount bolts. Mine came loose and caused a rattle that drove me nuts until I found the issue b
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 08:51 AM   #5
Mmmm. Good Toast.

WF Supporting Member
 
Harleyrider1108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Over the Hills and Far Away
Posts: 8,951
Thanks for the reminder, I need to tighten mine. When disconnected I just zip tie the sway out of the way up top.

I saw a dude that bought two sets and had one placed up higher that he slid the sway on to when disconnected and put the pin back in.
__________________
"It's a fool that looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart" - Ulysses Everett McGill
Harleyrider1108 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 08:54 AM   #6
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 4,464
I know I'm not offering a solution but, I don't have any issues attaching my links the parking nubs.
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 09:00 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
And be sure to tighten the crap out the lower mount bolts. Mine came loose and caused a rattle that drove me nuts until I found the issue b
Thanks for the tip! Teraflex suggests to use red locktite on these bolts, did you? I did not have red locktite when I installed them, but with your comment, I'll go buy some and add it to the bolts. Thanks!
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 09:02 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
"Round frame part" lol

Hey, how did you do that ?
The text add-on? It's a quick annotation software called snag-it that I use for work. Works like a charm...
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 09:02 AM   #9
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 4,464
Quote:
Originally Posted by roger456 View Post

Thanks for the tip! Teraflex suggests to use red locktite on these bolts, did you? I did not have red locktite when I installed them, but with your comment, I'll go buy some and add it to the bolts. Thanks!
I admit I skipped the loctite as I didn't have any handy. If they come lose again I will do that.
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 07:33 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Update: I emailed Teraflex about my issue, and here is their answer:
Quote:
We see this every once in awhile. The cross tube is to wide in some jeeps. I would have to say we have sold thousands of quick disconnect kits and I have had maybe 6 emails referring to this problem. They must be few and far between. This is what I suggest, grind the tube down. It won't hurt anything, spray it with some primer then some Rustoleum, your good to go.
So I guess I'll have to fire up my grinder, and make my JK like the others! Looks like we're not a bunch having this problem.
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #11
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 4,464
This is gonna sound dumb but: perhaps is your sway bar not centered? I'm gonna have to look at mine when I get home as I have the same kit and no issues.
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 10:44 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
This is gonna sound dumb but: perhaps is your sway bar not centered? I'm gonna have to look at mine when I get home as I have the same kit and no issues.
It doesn't I checked for this also, and even if I center it, I either hit one side of the tube or the other. It just does not go in-between. The centering needs to be so precise that when I'll be on the side of the trail ready to go, if it budges only a little (which it will) I'll be unable to reposition it.
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-28-2013, 02:41 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
To finish the story since this forum gave so much to me, I'm tempted to give back. The solution for me was to use an angle grinder, put the front of the jeep on jack stands, and grind the round frame part away. In fact, just cut a part of it, since it was protruding about half an inch. Here is a pic of the removed parts. After this, everything works as described, the "parking" of the sway bar works as the folks at teraflex suggested. Since I had to grind a part of the jeep, it took longer than expected, but now I'm happy! I just have to paint the cut part with rust-proof paint and I'm all set.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo.JPG
Views:	33
Size:	97.6 KB
ID:	254793  
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-28-2013, 02:42 PM   #14
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Barmanvarn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sherwood, AR
Posts: 4,464
Great!
__________________
-Brian
2012 Cherry Red JK
TF 2.5 Coils w/ Billstein 5100 Shocks
17x8 Black Rock D-Window Alloys
315/70/17 GY Duratracs
4:56 Gears - LSD in Rear w/ Ten Factory Chromoly Shafts
TF HD Diff Covers
Barmanvarn is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-07-2013, 07:58 AM   #15
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 39
You are not the only one with this problem. I installed the Teraflex discos this weekend and my swaybar also was hitting the frame tube on both sides. I thought it was a centering issue but it became evident very quickly that the tube was just too long on both sides. I went through a couple of grinding wheels on my dremil before I was able to get the bar up to the park position. My issue now is not enough room to generate the necessary torque to remove the nuts needed for the parking brackets. As others have said, I can always use bungees.
HokieJK is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-07-2013, 09:23 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
You used a dremel to cut that? You, sir, have more patience that I ever will! It was really a job for an angle grinder, but congrats on doing it with a dremel!

To remove the nuts for the parking brackets, I had difficulty too, what I did is use a long extension if I remember correctly, and with this, I was able to put a breaker bar at the end. With this I got enough torque to unscrew those nuts, which were quite hard to remove. Maybe an impact wrench would do the trick too, I did not try it that way, my ratcheting breaker bar did the trick.

Good luck!
roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-07-2013, 11:30 AM   #17
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 39
All I had was a dremel, and since this is my DD I had to finish it before work the next morning! I tried connecting all my socket extensions and that wasn't long enough, so I'll pick up a longer one this week and try again. Deep sockets are a good idea too.
HokieJK is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #18
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Great White North
Posts: 67
Respect for the dremel! You can also buy an angle grinder for a few bucks, and I'm sure you won't regret it, it is so useful for many applications.

For the extension, I have a 12 inch one I bought years ago to remove spark plugs on a vw passat, and I thought it would only be useful for that job. I was mistaken, I used it more than a hundred times since then. Buy a long one, you won't regret it! Also, you're right about the long sockets, it is better.

roger456 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



logo carid shop wrangler parts carid fender flares custom wheels store avs deflectors at carid

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:22 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC