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Old 02-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #1
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The buildup in on!

Ok first, thank you to everyone for the input - good stuff

Contacted Steve at Stevesjeepcountry.com in Epson NH - Steve came highly recommended, and does dozens of lifts.

Slated for Feb 14 he is doing the following to my otherwise stock 2010 Rubicon -

4" Rough Country Lift (complete with everything)
2.2 Rough County shocks
Woods Driveshafts
5.13 gears
Skid plates
Dual Steering Stabilizer
Wheel Spacers
35" Dick Cepak Mud Country's
ARB Differential Covers

My wallet is bleeding lol and yes I know I didn't need the dual stabilizers, I just wanted them. The ARB covers have dipsticks to check for water and metal, and drain plugs so no more pulling the covers to change fluid - sweet.

Now I just have to wait a week to bring it in? It's going to be a loooong week! Pics of before and after coming.

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Old 02-05-2011, 01:04 PM   #2
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The ARB covers have dipsticks to check for water and metal, and drain plugs so no more pulling the covers to change fluid - sweet.
Why not put those one yourself? If you've already pulled the covers to change fluid, it's the same thing. BTW the stock covers have drain plugs.

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Old 02-05-2011, 01:17 PM   #3
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Yea I know - the install was thrown in with everything else so why not - figured a one stop shop // drop it off before, pick it up complete - I live in the city, and doing mechanical work in the parking garage is generally frowned upon.

I'm thinking of cutting the front bumper back to increase my approach also, but one thing at a time.

I know you mentioned the steering stabilizer wasn't needed, but honestly? I like the look I guess - hell I can always take it off and eBay it if it proves a mistake.

And I ended up going Rough Country over Rock Krawler - I don't beat my rig, just light to moderate mud and obstacles so I saved a grand and went with the dealers suggestion. He noted years back Rough Country had issues with bushings and the like, and today they are a great kit for your weekend driver like myself.

So that's the short and skinny as of right now
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:34 PM   #4
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Happy Valentines day!
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:45 PM   #5
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Well .... EXACTLY ha ha ha ha thanks Tom - I have to be nice to the Jeep, she never let's me down. A little rough in the sack though
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:57 PM   #6
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Ok so the planets are aligned, and the tax refund due lol ... Ordered an AEV snorkel, breather return kit via river raider, and some d hooks for the front winch bumper. I'm about one transaction from disaster lol - so I hate my soft top - or more to the point I leave it in my living room with my doors most of the summer. I bought a cover, but really, it's for when you are parked. Is there anything that snaps on in seconds and at least keeps my seat sort of dry? Not completely, just some coverage for light rains coming home ... Thoughts?
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:59 AM   #7
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I use the Bestop trail cover. Once you get the hang of it, you can put it on very quickly.
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:20 AM   #8
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Yea Tom I completely mis worded that - beer, chix wings and the superbowl will do that to you - I meant a nap on top you could use while driving that was recommended by other users ... Something that would just cover the front two seats perhaps (as there is no backseat, or carpet for that matter) I looked at quadratec but was looking for opinions -
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:21 PM   #9
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OK so the extended breathers from River Raider came in today, along with the AEV Snorkle Kit w Ram Air - expecting the ProCAL Module in the morning and heading the little blue box to an Inspection Station this afternoon. Things are getting exciting.

Starting Sunday it all somes together at Steves Jeep Country in Epson NH. 4inch X Mid Range Lift (Rough Country-shocks, springs, mid arms everything), 17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic II's, 35 inch DC Mud Countrys, extended brake lines, Woods Drive Shafts, ARB Differential covers, 5.13 gears, dual stabilizers, AEV Procal, extended breathers to the airbox, AEV Snorkle etc.

It seems to me that there is a repeated thread about lifts with 33's and 35's - I am guilty of it. I NEVER knew going from a 33 to a 35 correctly could be so expensive when the lift hit above 2.5 inches, so I went big and my credit card melted (thank god I have a tax refund coming)

I am going to put it down on paper from beginning to end on the decision process, what I found impacted certain decisions, the costs involved, the finsihed product, and a road test with feedback on the change and driveability. And yes PICS.

I did so much research, I hope it helps anyone else following in my shoes - and I wanted to say thanks to Daggo and the rest for the support and information. Good Stuff for sure, but then, that's why I love this place

Look out MUD! weeeeeeeeeeeee
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:28 PM   #10
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I had the River Raider breather extender install yesterday
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:44 PM   #11
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Did you do it yourself? Was it hard? Curious ... I love the mud and water and with the snorkel and breather kit I expect I won't absolve myself of responsibility in a hydrolock situation but mitigating the possibility is always worthwhile
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:07 PM   #12
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I was getting other work done anyways so I let them do it. Wish I did though because the tech was so worried about keeping it away from the exhaust(the original fronts axle line not the kit line), that he let it loop to close to the front driveline and it wore a hole in it before I even got it home. They took care of it though. They charge 1/2 hour labor so it must not been too hard
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:27 PM   #13
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Man I can't wait to see the pics of you jeep. Hope all goes well. I am gonna be following this thread very carefully for my own build. What made you decide on the snorkel??
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:17 PM   #14
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What made you decide on the snorkel??

I'm paranoid. I love crashing through water and mud and having it blow up and over the Jeep. I am also VERY aware of hydrolocking. Last week at the guy doing my works place, he mentioned a 2010 with 8k on the odometer hydrolocking after crashing through some water. He didn't mention depth, it's somewhat irrelevant. Anyway it was 5K to rebuild.

So AEV seemed to be my best choice, though it still requires some cutting of sheetmetal - for $350.00 it's cheap insurance. Not that it is foolproof, and no you still cant be stupid, but it DOES provide some measure against hydrolocking. While I was at it, I ordered the River Raider Breather Kit which ties everything together back to the seal air box. So cool looking black proboscis sticking out of the Jeep sucking cool air from high, and a sealed breather tube system making sure water doesn't get into my differentials. The ARB covers are so I can check for contamination anyway with the dipstick.

And there it is -
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:44 AM   #15
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OK a progress report - talked to Steve about trimming fenders as opposed to flat fenders. He sort of reinforced my fears on trimming stock, and we spoke about Xenon and Bushwhacker Flat Fenders. I decided on the Bushwackers (I just like the style and the 2dr with 35's and a 4" lift coupled with the visual of a flat fender scenario was too good to passup.

So yesterday I gassed up, steam cleaned the undercarriage (as much as I could reach anyway), gave it a quick wash to get the salt off, and drove 90 minutes north to drop it off.

This morning I awoke to the realization I did not leave the lock for the locking lugs with the vehicle and I have no way of getting it to them I suck

WOW
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:58 PM   #16
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33’s or 35’s – My Experience

OK in a nutshell I have the following vehicle;

2010 Jeep Rubicon JK 2dr 6spd 32” tires

Shop: Steves Jeep Country, Epson NH (Jeep Home Steves Jeep Country - Epsom NH )

I wanted to lift it so questions started flowing – 33’s from a 32 just didn’t seem right. So here was scenario #1

2.5” suspension lift, 33” DC Mud Country tires

2.5 -3” was the max a 2dr could be lifted without serious driveshaft issues – 4drs can get away with it because their wheelbase is longer and the drive shafts have less of an angle of approach to the differential accordingly.

For the money I wanted more than a 1” change in tire -

No, I wanted 35’s. I could have gone with a 2.5 inch lift with 35’s also but with full articulation, I wanted a full 4” – besides, I like the look.

And here is where it got expensive – Scenario #2 (and what is going on right now)

Dick Cepak Mud Country in a 35” were more expensive – multiply it by 5 (spare). They could squeeze it onto my 17.5” wide rims, but 9” is a better fit. Mickey Thompson Classic II rims – multiply it by 5. Now add labor for mounting and balancing.

I opted out of Rock Krawler, I’m just a weekend warrior and don’t need that level of kit. Steve mentioned the bushing issues with RC are a dead issue, and their quality has come a long way. That being said, I opted for an 4” X Series Rough Country Setup (coils, springs, control arms, 2.2 shocks etc etc etc). Jeep JK Wrangler Suspension Lift $1200.00 plus labor.

With a 2DR, the minute the lift goes in, it’s going to need slip drives hafts as the stock U Joints will fail eventually. Tom Woods Drive Shafts (a grand not including labor). If you have a JKU, in most cases you are good to go without them. Check this out Fatal Angle Tom Woods JK Wrangler Driveshafts - Jp Magazine

So you are lifted 4”, things look great, new drive shafts, springs, control arms, shocks, wheel and tires. You need to RE-GEAR at this point. For the 6spd we went with a 5.13 for mixed driving to compensate for the bigger tires (up from the stock Rubicon 4.10) – look at around $1600.00 for both axles.

Crap what the hell happened to the speedometer?? – ask yourself a bigger question “what happens to the ABS, Skid Control, and Stability when the Jeep is doing 60 and the computer is thinking it is doing 30mph? Time for an AEV ProCal for 150 or so – it recalibrates your speedometer, centers the steering wheel, activate/deactivates daytime running lights, activates/deactivates one touch turn signals and best of all, allows for high idle for winching and what not (activated with the ebrake on, module in OBD, and using the dimmer switch to raise or lower to 2000rpm 10 minutes at a time)

I also added a Rough Country Dual Steering Stabilizer - there seems to be several camps on necessity. They recommended one, I went with the recommendation. I can always remove it.

Each change, necessitated another change –

So that’s what I found in going from 33’s to 35’s properly – serious money when done properly. I never knew it, so I figured I would jot it down for others to see. The JK is at Steve’s now getting the full boat press. I like to do everything at once, and again his reputation and sales back up his work, so I am definitely sleeping well knowing it is being done right. When I get it back Thursday, it will be time for the road test review … stay tuned …
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Old 02-14-2011, 09:46 PM   #17
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What about a tire carrier for the spare? That's quite a gamble to put a 35 on there.
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vze2372e
33’s or 35’s – My Experience

. . . .
Great summary. Got to keep this on hand for all the "I just got 35s . . ." or "What do I need to put on 35s . . ." threads that come along every few weeks!
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:20 PM   #19
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@ZOMBIE - it already has an aftermarket swing away spare tire carrier, I wouldn't hang a 35" off the tailgate. I simply popped a 2" spacer into the spot the 3rd taillight bolted on to raise it for the new tire.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:22 PM   #20
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@ZOMBIE - it already has an aftermarket swing away spare tire carrier, I wouldn't hang a 35" off the tailgate. I simply popped a 2" spacer into the spot the 3rd taillight bolted on to raise it for the new tire.
Nice!

Looks like you have all the angles covered

I keep my full size spare in the garage till I plan on going up north for the weekend and wheeling it. Then it goes in the cargo area. I had it mounted on the rear for about 24hrs till I worried that it would fly off on the highway and end up in someones windshield.

I planned on ordering a tire carrier with this years tax return, but my furnace bit the dust last sunday

Looking forward to seeing some pics!
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:29 PM   #21
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@MTH - thanks - yea I noticed eberyone has the same sort of question so I figured I would document it all this time around. Fact is I was looking at around 1750.00 (5x33" tires and a $500.00 basic lift) When I went to 35's, is when the price jumped. It would be the same for a 2dr as a 4dr with the exception of driveshafts for the 2dr. After I got done shopping I needed wider rims to do it right, gears, shafts etc etc. It all went up from there as each change necessitated another change and eventually I was up around $7500.00. I mean if you look at just the gears and driveshafts, you are at $2600.00 before you even lift it or buy a tire/rim combination. With 33's you can avoid all that and just lift it as long as you don't go higher than 2.5 in the 2dr and 3.5 in the 4dr. Things to think about - it adds up quick but if you want to do it right, you need to know the cost involved which is something I never knew. It was an eye opener to be blunt.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:31 PM   #22
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@ZOMBIE - I wanted to do this last summer. It wasn't a furnace however, it was a wedding for my little one and relocating the newlyweds to Denver so yea, I know your pain lmfao SUCKS - good luck with your furnace!
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:56 PM   #23
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Nice build - it looks like you are doing your 4” lift right.

Just a note on the 35s…

Quote:
Originally Posted by vze2372e View Post
...I could have gone with a 2.5 inch lift with 35’s…

Quote:
Originally Posted by vze2372e View Post
...When I went to 35's, is when the price jumped...

Given that someone is going to get at least a 2.5” spring lift, new 33” tires, new wheels and the ProCal anyway, I think the 4” lift causes a bigger price increase (over getting 35s vs. 33s). I know a number of rigs with 35s and a 2.5” lift (my 2 door included), that don’t require the more expensive lift with arms or new diveshafts. I do agree the 35s are nice with new gears - I got 5.38s with my automatic.

Now that you are getting a 4” lift you should get 37s, then the 37s would really be the cause for all of the extra upgrades (plus more)! Anyway, looking forward to the pics.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:00 AM   #24
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anybody know a good jeep shop up by me!!!!!!!! 10956 my area sucks for this kind of stuff and there are barely any trails unless i go to penn...... cant wait to see some pics though i wanna get a 4" eventually
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:16 AM   #25
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@Joe - I hear ya. The two costs no one thinks about are the gears and driveshafts. Or at least I never really thought about it until the shop told me the bad news. If you have a 4dr and keep it under 3.5 inches (4) or so, you can get away without the driveshafts which are $500.00 apiece. In a 2 dr above 2.5 inches, you are basically screwed - I could have skipped the extra grand by going 35's with a 2.5 inch lift but in reality, I just "wanted" the 4" and with the kids out of the house, I had a certain amount of disposable income to do that. 33's (as I am told) can still be had without regearing (again, another 700-900 per axle). I like the look of the 35's however and with them, regearing was NOT an option. So yea if you go 33's and a 2.5 inch lift on a 2dr, or up to a 3.5 inch lift on a 4 dr, you can save $2400-2800 dollars right there. I had the means, liked the look so went big

As for the lift itself? You can do 4" for 400-600 dollars depending on what you are looking for. I went in looking at Rock Krawler but after getting some good advice, I chose Rough Country. Its like thinking about a Ferrari when you are cruising the Mall - Steve was quite upfront about need versus use, despite it cutting into his sale. I went with the 1299 kit because it contains EVERYTHING including the shocks, something the cheaper kits don't always have. So instead of piece mealing it, I bought the complete kit including;

Front: Lifted coil springs, upper and lower adjustable control arms with X-Flex joints, adjustable track bar, quick disconnects, and stainless steel brake lines.

Rear: Lifted coils springs, upper and lower adjustable control arms with X-Flex joints, track bar drop bracket, sway bar links, and stainless steel brake lines.

Shocks: Features (4) Performance 2.2 series shocks

And there you go ... just my perspective, I could be wrong. I'm sure if I am, Daggo will cut my legs out from under me lmfao
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:02 AM   #26
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vze2372e - Yeah, you can get an inexpensive 4” lift (there’s really cheap 2.5” lifts too), but to do it right (like you’re doing), you need to get the arms, track bars, springs, shocks, brake lines, links, drop brackets, and yeah shafts.
I ran my 4.10s with my 35s for a while and finally broke down and got 5.38s. The gears ended up being one of my favorite upgrades. They make driving offroad even more fun and on the freeway the transmission stays in OD until I actually hit a good sized hill.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:34 AM   #27
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Joe thats good to hear - my one concern is where my RPMS will be in 6th at freeway speeds with the 5.13's and the 35's - sounds like I am doing the right thing in gear selection. Thanks for the input!
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Old 02-15-2011, 12:36 PM   #28
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vze2372e - I have a spreadsheet on my computer at home that I made for an automatic transmission that calculates the RPMs that I would have with different gear rations and different speeds – I used it when I was debating on what gears to get. It ended up pretty close to the real life numbers (the numbers are off a little because 35” tires are not 35”).
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:12 PM   #29
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Not much to look at yet but ...



The full Rough Country Kit 4"



Mickey Thompson 17x9 Classic II's and 35" DC Mud Countrys



My front end gutted - lift kit going in, differential open awaiting 5.13 gears and ARB differential cover



Rearend showing some components installed including the 2.2 shocks

Thanks Steve!
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:58 PM   #30
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More pics as the build moves along more...it is looking awesome!

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