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Old 02-03-2012, 11:13 AM   #271
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What about loktite?

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Old 02-03-2012, 12:37 PM   #272
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I'd say that lock-tite would be fine for extra security. The stover nuts are locking nuts however, specifically designed for automotive use, ie lots of heavy vibration. On another not, home depot did not carry 9/16 and my local true value did not have grade 8 so looks like I'll order the kit. No offence to the venders, you guys really make some good deals for us, but I like to try and support the locals first.

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Old 02-03-2012, 05:57 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by onejsmith View Post
You have made a case for keeping your bolts tight which is hard to argue.

From a lot of experience repairing Jeep Wranglers with death wobble, I KNOW that it doesn't take much wear in just a few parts which, when added together, will be the CAUSE of death wobble. Take a few minutes and read the article Death Wobble for an education about DW that you won't find everyday. It speaks specifically to your thinking about the slack in the bushing and from the elongation caused from loose bolts on the axle end of the track bar. That has been proven to cause DW in several cases.
So if I actually go and intentionally oval out the holes to be slots then torque up the bolts so there is no movement will I still have DW - no, cause nothing is moving. I do fully understand DW, both cause and effect, and if there is no movement, there is no DW. If there were a few mm movement in my trackbar then my centre position of my steering wheel would move. If there were movement in the bolts then I would see the movement evident by the bolts/trackbar not being in the exact some position as I left it.

Bottom line to what I was trying to get at is regardless of the bolt size and the hole size, if they are tight enough to not move there is no problem. When they get loose enough to move, then yes a fully threaded bolt will chew things out very quickly and if left loose will keep chewing out the metal until there is enough movement to allow DW to occur.

Not disagreeing with you, just not totally agreeing if that makes sense!!!
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:14 PM   #274
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So if I actually go and intentionally oval out the holes to be slots then torque up the bolts so there is no movement will I still have DW - no, cause nothing is moving. I do fully understand DW, both cause and effect, and if there is no movement, there is no DW. If there were a few mm movement in my trackbar then my centre position of my steering wheel would move. If there were movement in the bolts then I would see the movement evident by the bolts/trackbar not being in the exact some position as I left it.

Bottom line to what I was trying to get at is regardless of the bolt size and the hole size, if they are tight enough to not move there is no problem. When they get loose enough to move, then yes a fully threaded bolt will chew things out very quickly and if left loose will keep chewing out the metal until there is enough movement to allow DW to occur.

Not disagreeing with you, just not totally agreeing if that makes sense!!!

Tightness has no effect on the forces that are applied to the areas in question. Example not matter how "tight" something is. You put enough force on the links (pop hole, going off road, hitting a ditch to fast/wrong angle, coming down to hard, etc) it will move. There is no question about it. By putting the right size boles to fill up both holes, it may move but it will not move and cause damage OR effect the jeep in a negative way (round out the hole, DW, etc)
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:16 PM   #275
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I Don't mean to nitpick here but I don't think the kit comes with "nylock" nuts, does it? from the description and the picture they are "stover nuts" Which MUST be put on in the correct way. There is a top and bottom to the stover nut.
Yup Stover or deformed nuts (different name for same thing) lol
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Old 02-04-2012, 07:47 PM   #276
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Hardware ordered to replace stock bolts including the upper control arms.
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Old 02-05-2012, 05:25 PM   #277
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EAD has sold out of these, 8 sets sold over the weekend and wiped us out.

The next batch is already on order and is due in around Feb 15th. We are taking pre-orders Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit

If you ordered over the weekend your bolts will ship tomorrow and I've updated the web store to clearly show we are out. All orders bought before I updated the site will be fulfilled in other words.

I kept one set back in case someone has a "bolt emergency"


Thank you WranglerForum for all the sales. I honestly didn't think these would be so popular or I'd have ordered a lot more the first time around.
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #278
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SOOO glad I ordered mine yesterday!
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:59 AM   #279
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SOOO glad I ordered mine yesterday!
Pretty sure you got the last one . Shipping it today for you.
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:01 AM   #280
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We have plenty of our grade 8 bolt kits in stock ready to ship.

Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

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Old 02-06-2012, 10:07 AM   #281
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Originally Posted by EAD Offroad View Post
EAD has sold out of these, 8 sets sold over the weekend and wiped us out.

The next batch is already on order and is due in around Feb 15th. We are taking pre-orders Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit

If you ordered over the weekend your bolts will ship tomorrow and I've updated the web store to clearly show we are out. All orders bought before I updated the site will be fulfilled in other words.

I kept one set back in case someone has a "bolt emergency"


Thank you WranglerForum for all the sales. I honestly didn't think these would be so popular or I'd have ordered a lot more the first time around.
I recieved my Hardware kit Thursday in the mail ,Thank you EAD
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:24 AM   #282
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We have plenty of our grade 8 bolt kits in stock ready to ship.

Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

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Thanks... Think I'll be ordering a set... do we get a discount?
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:06 PM   #283
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Ordered mine Friday got them in the mail yesterday, now thats service especially for free shipping!
Thanks EAD!
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:51 PM   #284
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Ordered mine Friday got them in the mail yesterday, now thats service especially for free shipping!
Thanks EAD!
Same for me. I'm going to go look around on the EAD website, as I'm pretty impressed with my first experience.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:30 PM   #285
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I thought about the Synergy kit, but I would feel much better if a vendor came up with a drilled bolt and crown nut kit. I would pay $50 for just the two bolts and nuts of correct length. But it looks as if nobody but Synergy ever made anything.

By the way, you can also look at the problem from the opposite direction: aftermarket replacement track bar bushings are called "14mm". Hmm!
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:51 PM   #286
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I thought about the Synergy kit, but I would feel much better if a vendor came up with a drilled bolt and crown nut kit. I would pay $50 for just the two bolts and nuts of correct length. But it looks as if nobody but Synergy ever made anything.

By the way, you can also look at the problem from the opposite direction: aftermarket replacement track bar bushings are called "14mm". Hmm!
Why a drilled bolt? For safety wire?
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:37 PM   #287
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Why a drilled bolt? For safety wire?
This sounds like deja vu? I remember someone else asking about the same thing?
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:17 AM   #288
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I thought about the Synergy kit, but I would feel much better if a vendor came up with a drilled bolt and crown nut kit.
At 125 ftlbs there is no way the nut is going to come loose. In comparison the castle nuts on the knuckle side of the drag link are about half that.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:19 AM   #289
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Ordered mine Friday got them in the mail yesterday, now thats service especially for free shipping!
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Same for me.
Thank you for the orders.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #290
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This sounds like deja vu? I remember someone else asking about the same thing?
He must of been talking about safety wire which is not necessary
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:06 PM   #291
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At 125 ftlbs there is no way the nut is going to come loose. In comparison the castle nuts on the knuckle side of the drag link are about half that.
You are probably right. However, my wife had a 1996 Mitsubishi Galant, where the weight of the whole car was on one of those. One day it sheared and the wheel fell off the car. Coincidentially Mitsubishi had a recall on it. There was nothing theoretically bad about the design, it was engineered to take the load. But on a small batch of cars, some Japanese assembly worker put the nut on incorrectly: either too tight or too loose, or maybe cross-threaded it initially. I am not sure that I trust myself to put such a tricky nut on.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:11 PM   #292
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If I ordered one if these kits for my (on route) 2012 Rubicon, do you think the dealer would do the install when it arrives? I'd rather go the dealer route for everything for warranty reasons to start.
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:56 PM   #293
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If I ordered one if these kits for my (on route) 2012 Rubicon, do you think the dealer would do the install when it arrives? I'd rather go the dealer route for everything for warranty reasons to start.
That's not how warranties work. The parts as they came from the factory are covered, parts added later--even by the dealer--are not. I wouldn't pay the dealer to do this simple swap. Find some friendly local Jeepers and buy'em pizza.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #294
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That's not how warranties work. The parts as they came from the factory are covered, parts added later--even by the dealer--are not. I wouldn't pay the dealer to do this simple swap. Find some friendly local Jeepers and buy'em pizza.
That's right and best to just keep it to yourself, so when something does happen, they won't be making excuses as to why, even if it is better. The Dealer is only allowed to do what Chrysler dictates and they will never, never recall this unless forced to, which I can't see happening either. I mean you're going to have to kill one bunch of people, that can be proven to be caused by this bunch of bolts to even get anyone the least bit excited, even if does cause and called DEATH WOBBLE!
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:41 AM   #295
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Got my kit ordered thru Northridge... thanks Dave
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:32 AM   #296
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If I ordered one if these kits for my (on route) 2012 Rubicon, do you think the dealer would do the install when it arrives? I'd rather go the dealer route for everything for warranty reasons to start.
I was actually curious if this was still a problem in the '12. Guess that answers my question. Looks like I'll be ordering a set.
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:50 PM   #297
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My 2012 is on order. I'll have these swapped out within the first 100 miles.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:31 AM   #298
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Anyone done this with Rk control arms... I heard there bushings are a bit smaller... Do u just drill them out? How did u do it? Witchones did ya have to do ?
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:30 AM   #299
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Doggone it. 2011 JKU with only 4,500 miles and I already have an egg shaped hole. Thanks to this thread, I ordered the new bolts from EAD (9/16) and made an appointment at my dealer. They were very kind and accommodating with my concern and the mechanic showed me the damage done.

He couldn't even get the new bolts to go through the hole! What's worse, the hole on the bracket that's part of the frame of the chassis is rounded to an egg shape too where the track bar mounts.

Suffice to say, they're ordering me a new trackbar for the front and rear. What a mess. I will be contacting both Chrysler corporate and the NHTSA and I encourage EVERYONE reading this to do the same. Such a simple fix by using the right hardware to begin with and all of this could've been avoided. Shame on Chrysler. They need to make this right!
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:47 AM   #300
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Anyone want to do a small, quick write up before I get mine in the mail?

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