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Old 03-16-2012, 12:24 PM   #721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fm jump
Which is needed? 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive on the torque wrench? I have to buy one.
I'd get a 1/2" for this much torque. A 3/8" may work but why.

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Old 03-16-2012, 12:24 PM   #722
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Originally Posted by fm jump View Post
Which is needed? 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive on the torque wrench? I have to buy one.
1/2" Drive

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Old 03-16-2012, 12:28 PM   #723
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Originally Posted by fm jump View Post
Which is needed? 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive on the torque wrench? I have to buy one.
1/2". Extra leverage is needed. Those 125 ft/lb specs aren't easy, especially when the day grows long and you are tired. I have had no problem getting the handle of my wrench into tighter spots, though you do need to get creative on the axle side CA's in the rear.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:51 PM   #724
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good info thanks is this the same for 2012 models
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:52 PM   #725
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There was mention a page or so ago about the tighter fitting bolts generating heat and the heat causing issues - there is no heat as there is (should be) no movement in anything but the twisting of the rubber mounts.

All changing from the smaller 14mm threaded bolts to the larger 9/16 shoulder bolts will achieve is the reduction in any damage done to mounting brackets if the bolts do move under load (which they are not supposed to...) If the bolts are not tight enough it will also reduce the amount the components can move under load.

If all bolts were torqued to correct setting before the changover, there should be no difference in ride 'feel' at all. If there is a difference, either the original bolts were not to correct torque, or the replacements have not been put in correctly.

Remember this bolt change out is a preventative measure only, not a cure for wobbles or vibrations of any sort.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:02 PM   #726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bama2012rubicon View Post
I used my floor Jack to lift the frame or axle to allow the factory bolts to slide right out without binding. Doing this allowed the Senergy bolts to slide in with no pressure or binding. I then lowered the Jeep to perform all torqueing. The problem was breaking them loose from the factory torque. I gave up for the day after trying for a while to get the axle side LCA in the rear loose with my impact wrench. I was worried about doing damage to the inside of the rim.
I was just curious because the unthreaded part of the bolts in your pics showed circular marks. Thought maybe you threaded them out. Were they any marks inside the metal sleeve in asny of the bushings?
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:24 PM   #727
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I was just curious because the unthreaded part of the bolts in your pics showed circular marks. Thought maybe you threaded them out. Were they any marks inside the metal sleeve in asny of the bushings?
No, they were completely smooth. I'm not sure what cause those marks on the shouldered part of the factory bolts. I have been trying to figure that one out. but i'll tell you the reason my factory bolts aren't worn any was they were put on by a big a** gorilla. My 1/2" impact wrench with 100psi had a hard time with getting them loose.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:36 PM   #728
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Glad to hear no wear.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:46 PM   #729
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Driving for the first time since changing the bolts I notice today a very high frequency vibe that felt like tires coming and going above 65 to 70 mph and going away above 75mph. I had not notice it be for I changed those four bolts. Just coincidence or what.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:46 PM   #730
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I think I missed something....I bought the poly synergy kit and noticed that it says>> Note: The front Track Bar on 2012 and up Jeep JKs utilize a sealed spherical bearing joint at the frame side attachment point of the track bar. This bearing has a smaller ID than the 9/16" replacement bolts provided in the kit. Thus the OEM bolt must be retained in this location.
...what are you guys doing about this..? Just leave the oem??
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:51 PM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fm jump View Post
I think I missed something....I bought the poly synergy kit and noticed that it says>> Note: The front Track Bar on 2012 and up Jeep JKs utilize a sealed spherical bearing joint at the frame side attachment point of the track bar. This bearing has a smaller ID than the 9/16" replacement bolts provided in the kit. Thus the OEM bolt must be retained in this location.
...what are you guys doing about this..? Just leave the oem??

I'm thinking I'll probably go with a Synergy track bars ( front and rear) before its all over with. The Guys at Synergy said there track bars were 9/16".
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:54 PM   #732
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Is it necessary to replace the sealed spherical bearing joint on the frame side too?
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:17 PM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fm jump View Post
I think I missed something....I bought the poly synergy kit and noticed that it says>> Note: The front Track Bar on 2012 and up Jeep JKs utilize a sealed spherical bearing joint at the frame side attachment point of the track bar. This bearing has a smaller ID than the 9/16" replacement bolts provided in the kit. Thus the OEM bolt must be retained in this location.
...what are you guys doing about this..? Just leave the oem??

We fount the 14mm 10.9 bolt at NAPA, they had the good washers also, ours
was out of the lock nut but we got it somewhere else. It is a shouldered bolt
just like the rest of the bolts in the synergy kit.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:28 PM   #734
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okay! thanks Ill get it.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:35 PM   #735
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Originally Posted by bama2012rubicon View Post
Driving for the first time since changing the bolts I notice today a very high frequency vibe that felt like tires coming and going above 65 to 70 mph and going away above 75mph. I had not notice it be for I changed those four bolts. Just coincidence or what.
In an earlier post you said you put your Jeep back on the floor to torque the bolts so I would think just coincidence.
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Old 03-18-2012, 01:08 AM   #736
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Originally Posted by fm jump View Post
Which is needed? 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive on the torque wrench? I have to buy one.
1/2 is best for the 125ftlbs specs. There are a few spots that the 3/8 is best on 75 ftlbs or less because of space. I have a Craftsman 1/2 and a SnapOn 3/8 and used both on my install.
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:28 PM   #737
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To keep me from reading through 25 pages of links, can someone post a link to the store which is selling the complete set of bolts, etc., the Jeepist?
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:50 PM   #738
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THeres a link to poly performance on the first page.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #739
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I saw that, but $60+ bucks plus shipping for bolts, washers, and nuts? Geeze Louise. Anything better out there?


Quote:
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THeres a link to poly performance on the first page.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:16 PM   #740
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:39 PM   #741
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$5.41 per unit (bolt, nut, and washer) is unacceptable to me. Sounds like something Saddam would have in his palace.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:55 PM   #742
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$5.41 per unit (bolt, nut, and washer) is unacceptable to me. Sounds like something Saddam would have in his palace.

giving the grade is substantially higher the price is on par with the mark.

Grade 8 will work fine.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:07 PM   #743
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$5.41 per unit (bolt, nut, and washer) is unacceptable to me. Sounds like something Saddam would have in his palace.
That $65 is for F9 grade hardware.

If you are fine with Grade 8 hardware, Northridge4x4's kit is $45, and shipping is free with a $100 total order:

Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

Most people will find it difficult to find Stover lock nuts from their local hardware store. As a result, they buy split lock washers with regular nuts. Most people would spend more than $45 locally, even without Stover lock nuts.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:11 PM   #744
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I was lucky then, true value carried the stover nuts and all the other stuff. Ended up costing about $30.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:06 PM   #745
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With shipping, this is better at $4.58 per unit. I have a bolt supply place nearby which has everything you can imagine for the Chemical Plants in Baytown. I'll take the list down there tomorrow and see what they can do.

Thanks for the input fellas.

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That $65 is for F9 grade hardware.

If you are fine with Grade 8 hardware, Northridge4x4's kit is $45, and shipping is free with a $100 total order:

Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:01 PM   #746
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I saw that, but $60+ bucks plus shipping for bolts, washers, and nuts? Geeze Louise. Anything better out there?
head to home depot and build your own kit. I'm captain cheapass of the USS cheapass, but I still went through one of our vendors for the 60ish kit with free shipping to save myself the headache. And darn, I wound up not using 2 of the washer, so I guess I wasted money. and theres even a HD less then 5 minutes away. I just know from experience digging through the grade 8 drawers sucks, so I just opted to get the kit.

if you have a local store or something to get this hardware from, go ahead. The stock bolts are nothing sexy, just nuts with built in washers, and bolts. the kits? same thing, nothing sexy, just shouldered bolts, and washers and nuts to match. One thing to note, for anyone running aftermarket brackets is the replacement bolts are the same length as stock; using a double washer on each side cuts down on the total useable bolt length. Doesn't matter for most, but I used the EVO rockstars (rear lca skid + shock relocation) and it made the total setup too wide to be able to use the supplied bolts and double washers. I had no issue using the kit with my woods steering stabilizer relocation bracket or my rear trackbar bracket, so no worries there
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:37 AM   #747
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The idea behind the kits is to make it easy for people who don't have access to places that sell F911 hardware locally. Or for those that don't want to figure out exactly what they need and drive around town trying to find them. Like anything in life, if you pay someone else to do something for you, it costs a little more.


We ship free 2 day priority mail and have plenty in stock now. Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:12 AM   #748
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Hey all! I just bought my 2012 JKU 2 weeks ago, found this forum, and this was the first thread I read. Initially in this thread there was some confusion as to if the 2012's were affected (I was hoping not) but unfortunately they are. Needless to say it was kind of upsetting that for a first time jeep owner that I had to make a somewhat significant replacement like this. Oh well, as several people have posted, this is a good way to get to learn the underside of your jeep if you've never done something like this before.

Now keep in mind that I'm not much of a wrench turner. I'm more for mods that are easy and normally do not have the ability to really screw things up if I mess up so obviously this was a somewhat daunting task in my mind but I knew was something that I wanted to do. After a long yesterday, I successfully changed out all the bolts with no issues. So I guess what I'm saying is if I can do it then anyone can. Here is some info just to make it easier for anyone planning on doing this as well:

THE PROBLEM:

In a nutshell, the bolts mounting your front and rear track bars are a tiny bit smaller than the track bar holes so with this little movement and over time will basically stretch out the holes in the track bar which could potentially lead to further problems. This issue has been noted for a while and is not a TSB, Recall or a warranty issue with the dealership so this replacement is more of a proactive approach to avoid potential future issues.


BOLTS:

The two available options (That have been posted within this thread) for purchasing the replacement bolts online are:

EADOffroad.com Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit

Included:
(8 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long F911 bolts (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long F911 bolts (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 UNF G9 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick G9 hardened flat washers

Northridge4x4.com Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

Included:
Grade 8 Jeep JK Hardware kit
(8 each) 9/16-18 x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers


The difference between the two bolt packages is the EADoffroad package contains a higher grade bolt at a cost of about $20 more but the Northridge kit bolt grade is at recommended spec for this application so really either kit will work (I purchased the EADoffroad kit). You can go the option to purchase these bolts from another online vendor or your local hardware store but just make sure you're getting a minimum of grade 8 bolts. You may notice that you're getting bolts to replace your Lower Control Arms (LCAs) along with your Track bars (TBs), that's because these are actually suspension hardware upgrade kits. If you're really short on dime you could just buy hardware to replace the TB bolts since this is where the problem is but since you're going to be down there, might as well knock them all out. You can also replace your Upper Control Arm (UCA) bolts but I decided to wait on those since they aren't under the same stress as the TBs and LCAs.

Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through (I still tried anyway and no luck) so you have three options with this:
1) Buy an aftermarket TB to replace the stock TB which can accommodate the 9/16 bolts at each attachment point.
2) Continue using the stock bolt, just loosen it up and torque it to the proper level.
3) (This is what I did) Go to NAPA or ACE hardware (I found the correct size at both stores) and purchase a 14mm 3.0" Grade 10.9 bolt as a replacement. I purchased the bolt, 2 lock washers, 2 hardened flat washers, and a lock nut which all fit fine. I could have left out the 2 lock washers but figured what the hell.

Note: I don't recommend drilling it out, it kind of defeats the purpose of what you're doing plus it would just be a pain.

TOOLS:

These are the tools I used:

- 1/2" Torque wrench - Able to torque to at least 125 ft-lbs
- 22mm open ended wrench
- 21mm open ended wrench
- 1/2" Breaker Bar
- 21mm Deep socket
- 7/8" socket
- 13/16" socket
- I had a torque wrench but it was too big so I didn't even bother with it.

Some may say that you don't need all of this but I used every piece. When you're lying on your back with crap falling on your face and you don't have anyone helping it's easier to have an abundance of tools. One thing I do recommend is the 1/2" drive size on the torque wrench because with the limited space you have to work with, getting to the proper torque specs is a pain to reach.


INSTALLATION:

I did the bolt install with the Jeep all four wheels on the ground in my garage. Some people have used lifts / ramps but it seems the general consensus is to only replace these bolts with all four tires on the ground so that your vehicle is sitting at the proper ride height.

The first thing I did was remove the plastic covering under the front of the vehicle in order make access to everything underneath easier (Just 6 plastic tabs that you pop out to remove it). After you do this then you can use this photo as a reference for identifying each component: http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main....serialNumber=2

Basically all I did was pop out the old bolt and replaced it with new one; I had no fitting issues, each of the new bolts slid right in. There were a couple instances with the LCAs that I stuck a screwdriver into the mounting hole to align properly for the bolt to go in but that's really it. I installed the new bolts and just tightened them a little (Not all the way) and rocked the Jeep all around (Left-Right / Back- Forward) just to make sure everything settled right then I torqued each bolt to the proper specs:

TBs - 125ft-lbs
LCAs - 125fl-lbs

If you did the UCAs then:

Front UCAs - 75ft-lbs
Rear UCAs - 125ft-lbs

Trust me; doing this on your back with the Jeep on the ground is a pain to get the torque to the proper spec. I had to contort my body into all different positions to get the right leverage on some bolts and now my body is aching so be prepared. Some on this thread have recommended a ratchet strap so this may help you or if you have a buddy who can assist. Again, I did this by myself so it is doable solo.

One issue I did encounter is last night when I took the Jeep out for a test drive, I noticed that my steering wheel was no longer centered. Initial I kind of freaked out and thought that I had bent something while torqueing all the bolts but after some searching found that, short of bending a tie rod, the steering wheel getting knocked out of center is a common thing while messing with suspension components. No worries though, it took me just 5 minutes to fix by following this nice guide: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

NOTE: Please understand that I'm not a mechanic and I pulled some of info from this thread and throughout other forums so the following may be my or others opinions and please be gentle if I've misspoken. I want to also thank all the people who have contributed to this thread which allowed me to consolidate this info, THANKS!

That's pretty much it. Hope this helps and good luck!
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:04 PM   #749
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Wow!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Nice Summary. Thanks for putting all the info in one post. Will be doing mine this week.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:18 PM   #750
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New jeeper takin charge!!!!!! Woohoo **thumbs up** ...I appreciate it and have been waiting for a summery of the thread! Kudos!

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