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Old 05-23-2013, 12:10 PM   #1141
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I am so sore today from torquing those bolts last night. Still have the track bars to do. May farm that work out.

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Old 05-23-2013, 12:43 PM   #1142
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I assume this bolt issue is still a problem regardless of what year? (I have a 13) If this can cause wobble issues down the road, why don't they use the correct bolts in the factory???

Sorry if this has already been answered, but I am getting ready to head out the door for work and did not have time to read all of the previous post about this.

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Old 05-23-2013, 12:46 PM   #1143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Das_Jeep View Post
I assume this bolt issue is still a problem regardless of what year? (I have a 13) If this can cause wobble issues down the road, why don't they use the correct bolts in the factory???

Sorry if this has already been answered, but I am getting ready to head out the door for work and did not have time to read all of the previous post about this.
I don't know if its so much a wobble issue(could be wrong) but that the bolts can shear and/or tear up the bushings as they are fully threaded.

These bolts are stronger grade and are collared.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:28 PM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Das_Jeep View Post
I assume this bolt issue is still a problem regardless of what year? (I have a 13) If this can cause wobble issues down the road, why don't they use the correct bolts in the factory???

Sorry if this has already been answered, but I am getting ready to head out the door for work and did not have time to read all of the previous post about this.
The factory bolts are 14mm metric grade 10.9 and are plenty strong. But they are fully threaded so the threads can rub the inside of the bushings. Replacement bolts are 9/16" which is a tad bigger than 14mm and are only partially threaded. The unthreaded part of the bolt also provides a bigger surface area against the inside of the bushing.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:41 AM   #1145
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Welp, finally got the front track bar done. All I have left is the rear track bar.

It's raining and I'm bored so hope to finally finish this project today.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #1146
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With the help of a friend we changed out the stock bolts today. We could find little or no wear on the factory bolts or bushings. Four thousand miles on my Jeep. Glad to get that job behind me!
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:41 PM   #1147
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Just a thought

I replaced my track arm and control arm bolts today. One thing I noticed was that the 4" bolts sourced from Synergy and Northridge 4X4 for the control arms do not have enough shoulder to fully go through the bushing sleeve. This may not bother some but I couldn't do it. The 4 1/2 bolts have enough shoulder to go all the way through with an extra washer added on.
David
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:04 AM   #1148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post
I replaced my track arm and control arm bolts today. One thing I noticed was that the 4" bolts sourced from Synergy and Northridge 4X4 for the control arms do not have enough shoulder to fully go through the bushing sleeve. This may not bother some but I couldn't do it. The 4 1/2 bolts have enough shoulder to go all the way through with an extra washer added on.
David
I have the synergy kit, and I noticed the same thing when installing. We looked back through the install, and we used the bolts in a different location. We did a bit of switch-a-roo, and everything came out fine. We had the jeep on a lift so it was easy to see where the bolts were misplaced.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:40 AM   #1149
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I have the synergy kit, and I noticed the same thing when installing. We looked back through the install, and we used the bolts in a different location. We did a bit of switch-a-roo, and everything came out fine. We had the jeep on a lift so it was easy to see where the bolts were misplaced.
I hate to put out bad information so I have to ask. My original bolt purchase was at my local hardware store and I got G8. When I was ready to swap them out and noticed the length of the shoulders I called both Synergy and Northridge. I told them my situation and asked them to measure their bolts and assured them I would buy theirs if they had the ones with the longer shoulders. The bolts for the control arms were the same dimension from mine to theirs with the shoulder portion measuring 2 3/8.
Hoping I don't sound like a jerk, are you saying that your bolts have shoulders long enough to run the full length of the bushing sleeve?
David
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:16 AM   #1150
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The shoulders do not need to go full length.

If they were too long, the nut would stop on the shoulder instead of being able to properly torque the nut/bolt.

If the shoulder makes it 2/3 or more through the bushing, it will tighten things up and reduce wear.
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #1151
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EBAY Item Numbers

Ebay has these bolt upgrade kits:

2007-2011 Wrangler bolt kit for $ 50.00 + shipping.
Item # 171040320692


2012+ Wrangler bolt kit is $ 58.50 + shipping. Item # 171057141109.

Appears to be a BETTER PRICE.
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:32 PM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagg View Post
Ebay has these bolt upgrade kits:

2007-2011 Wrangler bolt kit for $ 50.00 + shipping.
Item # 171040320692

2012+ Wrangler bolt kit is $ 58.50 + shipping. Item # 171057141109.

Appears to be a BETTER PRICE.
The Northridge4x4 kit is $39.95, and shipping is free with a $100 total order.

How do you consider $50+ shipping a better price?
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:46 PM   #1153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post
I hate to put out bad information so I have to ask. My original bolt purchase was at my local hardware store and I got G8. When I was ready to swap them out and noticed the length of the shoulders I called both Synergy and Northridge. I told them my situation and asked them to measure their bolts and assured them I would buy theirs if they had the ones with the longer shoulders. The bolts for the control arms were the same dimension from mine to theirs with the shoulder portion measuring 2 3/8.
Hoping I don't sound like a jerk, are you saying that your bolts have shoulders long enough to run the full length of the bushing sleeve?
David

Just looks like this kit is $ 80.00
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:41 PM   #1154
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Sorry to disagree

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Originally Posted by planman View Post
The shoulders do not need to go full length.

If they were too long, the nut would stop on the shoulder instead of being able to properly torque the nut/bolt.

If the shoulder makes it 2/3 or more through the bushing, it will tighten things up and reduce wear.
What possible reason would it be OK for the bushing sleeve to be supported by 2/3 of the bolt? The whole point is to provide equal and complete contact between the sleeve and bolt.
David
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:28 AM   #1155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post

I hate to put out bad information so I have to ask. My original bolt purchase was at my local hardware store and I got G8. When I was ready to swap them out and noticed the length of the shoulders I called both Synergy and Northridge. I told them my situation and asked them to measure their bolts and assured them I would buy theirs if they had the ones with the longer shoulders. The bolts for the control arms were the same dimension from mine to theirs with the shoulder portion measuring 2 3/8.
Hoping I don't sound like a jerk, are you saying that your bolts have shoulders long enough to run the full length of the bushing sleeve?
David
Yes, they run the full length. We just issues with putting a couple bolts in the wrong location.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:42 AM   #1156
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Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post

What possible reason would it be OK for the bushing sleeve to be supported by 2/3 of the bolt? The whole point is to provide equal and complete contact between the sleeve and bolt.
David
So, without one in front of me, a trackbar bushing is maybe 2" or a little more wide.

The bushing and bolt sleeve are pinched between the bracket at 125 ft lbs.

The bushing bolt sleeve is fairly thick.

The grade 8 bolt is very strong.

0.5" to 0.6" out of 2"+ would not allow the bolt sleeve to flex. Less than 0.5" out of 2" would be just fine.

The bushing is not weight bearing. It holds the axle in place side-to-side (for the trackbar) and absorbs some vibrations.

If it concerns you, you could run a longer shouldered bolt, add grade 8 washers sufficient to ensure the nut isn't stopped by the shoulder, and cut off the excess threaded end of the bolt.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:42 AM   #1157
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I just ordered the kit yesterday, and am planning on installing this weekend....but a question hit me last night. I have a 2011 Unlimited and have 60k miles on it...would the damage already be done and no point to replacing the bolts by now?

thanks,
Mike
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #1158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber07 View Post
I just ordered the kit yesterday, and am planning on installing this weekend....but a question hit me last night. I have a 2011 Unlimited and have 60k miles on it...would the damage already be done and no point to replacing the bolts by now?

thanks,
Mike
If your holes are slightly ovaled and/or bushings eaten into, it would be even more helpful to upgrade--not less.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:28 AM   #1159
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Originally Posted by planman View Post
So, without one in front of me, a trackbar bushing is maybe 2" or a little more wide.

The bushing and bolt sleeve are pinched between the bracket at 125 ft lbs.

The bushing bolt sleeve is fairly thick.

The grade 8 bolt is very strong.

0.5" to 0.6" out of 2"+ would not allow the bolt sleeve to flex. Less than 0.5" out of 2" would be just fine.

The bushing is not weight bearing. It holds the axle in place side-to-side (for the trackbar) and absorbs some vibrations.

If it concerns you, you could run a longer shouldered bolt, add grade 8 washers sufficient to ensure the nut isn't stopped by the shoulder, and cut off the excess threaded end of the bolt.
Agreed, and yes in a perfect world the shoulder would stop at the outside face of the mount on the frame and the thick washer would let the threads "stretch" to the torque spec and the nut would not bind on the shoulder.

Remember these are mass produced stamped steel pieces with paint all over them (if your lucky) and the tolerances are ok but not like a machined surface. IMO only, getting that should most of the way thru at least sets up one side firmly and the torque aligns and holds it to the adjacent mount. Remeber the outside diameter of the threads is not too different than the shoulder dia so its still sets it up fairly well...

Now the real world test that I've noticed after doing my '09 and my '12. I did the 19/60 springs with Bilstein HD's on my '09 with the bolt kit in one shot. Decent OEM results with a much better ride.

Now I just did my '12 and didn't order the bolts in time so I did the same mini lift set up (but without the bolts) on my '12 because I liked the results from my '09. When done it didn't feel as tight and connected as my '09 but I thought different year different feel. So I get around to ordering the bolts and get them in and all snugged down and I have to say the manners of the suspension are far better. It's tight, connected, less vibrations and holds the corners firmer.

Just my experience but for the money and a days worth of bullshit under your ride I'd have it no other way
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #1160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
If your holes are slightly ovaled and/or bushings eaten into, it would be even more helpful to upgrade--not less.
Fair enough...Thanks, Planman
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:36 PM   #1161
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No flame intended.

Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
So, without one in front of me, a trackbar bushing is maybe 2" or a little more wide.

The bushing and bolt sleeve are pinched between the bracket at 125 ft lbs.

The bushing bolt sleeve is fairly thick.

The grade 8 bolt is very strong.

0.5" to 0.6" out of 2"+ would not allow the bolt sleeve to flex. Less than 0.5" out of 2" would be just fine.

The bushing is not weight bearing. It holds the axle in place side-to-side (for the trackbar) and absorbs some vibrations.

If it concerns you, you could run a longer shouldered bolt, add grade 8 washers sufficient to ensure the nut isn't stopped by the shoulder, and cut off the excess threaded end of the bolt.
I wasn't looking for a solution, mine's already done. I was just making sure those with less mechanical experience consider all aspects. I was never concerned about the ability to bear weight, but that the bolt shoulder and bushing have full intimate contact. The whole point was to eliminate the slack from a standard bushing and a metric bolt and then to remove the wear caused by vibration and the sharp edges of the non-shouldered bolts.
Now everyone can be happy.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:11 AM   #1162
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Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post
I wasn't looking for a solution, mine's already done. I was just making sure those with less mechanical experience consider all aspects. I was never concerned about the ability to bear weight, but that the bolt shoulder and bushing have full intimate contact. The whole point was to eliminate the slack from a standard bushing and a metric bolt and then to remove the wear caused by vibration and the sharp edges of the non-shouldered bolts.
Now everyone can be happy.
Any and All aftermarket solutions seem to be an upgrade and I know I'm happy with the results
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:22 AM   #1163
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How would I go about separating a 9/16 nut from a bolt that just keeps soinning? One of my Syenrgy bolts is stripped
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:38 AM   #1164
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How would I go about separating a 9/16 nut from a bolt that just keeps soinning? One of my Syenrgy bolts is stripped
Sawzall?
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #1165
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How would I go about separating a 9/16 nut from a bolt that just keeps soinning? One of my Syenrgy bolts is stripped
You need a tool called a "nutcracker". Cuts the nut on one of the flats.

Bob
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:55 AM   #1166
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You need a tool called a "nutcracker". Cuts the nut on one of the flats.

Bob
Hmm never seen one of these. Thanks
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:48 AM   #1167
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Here's a pic. Actually called a but splitter. Can find at Harbor Freight, hardware stores, Sears, etc...

http://www.dpciwholesale.com/3-pc.-N...itter-Set.html

Good luck!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:19 AM   #1168
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Here's a pic. Actually called a but splitter. Can find at Harbor Freight, hardware stores, Sears, etc...

http://www.dpciwholesale.com/3-pc.-N...itter-Set.html

Good luck!
Perfect
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:42 AM   #1169
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Waiting for my torque wrench to get calibrated then I'm tackling this project. 71k on the odometer-should be interesting to see what's going on down there as I can already hear it.

Crossing myself and i aint religious
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:45 AM   #1170
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Waiting for my torque wrench to get calibrated then I'm tackling this project. 71k on the odometer-should be interesting to see what's going on down there as I can already hear it.

Crossing myself and i aint religious
Start spraying the bolts with pb blaster ASAP. Trust me on this.

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