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Old 06-28-2013, 06:11 PM   #1171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaprio View Post
Here's a pic. Actually called a but splitter. Can find at Harbor Freight, hardware stores, Sears, etc...

http://www.dpciwholesale.com/3-pc.-N...itter-Set.html

Good luck!
Picked up a splitter but it was too small. The nut is a 22 mm and I need a 22 mm/7/8 max splitter.
I just found one on Amazon and ordered it up for 2 day.

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Old 06-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #1172
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So apparently I should've read the whole threead. The synergy bolt upgrade is NOT compatible with RK control arms? The 9/16 bolt would not fit. Had to put the stock ones back in. What did I miss?
My research skills need some serious help.

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Old 06-29-2013, 04:03 AM   #1173
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Originally Posted by JOCJK View Post
So apparently I should've read the whole threead. The synergy bolt upgrade is NOT compatible with RK control arms? The 9/16 bolt would not fit. Had to put the stock ones back in. What did I miss?
My research skills need some serious help.
I assume you have the older style ?
RK just released a new joint and will work with 9/16 hardware.

You should be able to ream the old style to work easily.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:36 AM   #1174
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Butt splitters and reaming?

This thread has taken an odd turn.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:54 AM   #1175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Picked up a splitter but it was too small. The nut is a 22 mm and I need a 22 mm/7/8 max splitter.
I just found one on Amazon and ordered it up for 2 day.
Bam
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:20 AM   #1176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Bam
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:23 AM   #1177
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Best freakin tool in the world. I can't count how many times this would have come in handy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:35 AM   #1178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCJK View Post
So apparently I should've read the whole threead. The synergy bolt upgrade is NOT compatible with RK control arms? The 9/16 bolt would not fit. Had to put the stock ones back in. What did I miss?
My research skills need some serious help.


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Drill out joint to 9/16"
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:51 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
Butt splitters and reaming?

This thread has taken an odd turn.
LOL, right there with ya.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:05 PM   #1180
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Ok, finally did the rear track bar today, meaning my install is now complete.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:11 PM   #1181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmanvarn View Post
Ok, finally did the rear track bar today, meaning my install is now complete.


Question for the thread. I have had these bolts loosened/removed a hundred times. I want to replace the nuts. All I am finding is grade 8
Will these be ok... Or where can I find 9's ?
Ty

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:22 PM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post


Question for the thread. I have had these bolts loosened/removed a hundred times. I want to replace the nuts. All I am finding is grade 8
Will these be ok... Or where can I find 9's ?
Ty

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Grade 8 fasteners are equivalent to stock 10.9. Even if they weren't the bolts in the JK suspension resist force perpendicular to the long axis of the bolt; this is called shear. There is minimal clamping force the bolt and nut provide. Just think about your receiver trailer hitch, that main pin is retained by the little pin because there is no force applied in that direction. I have grade 5 top lock nuts on my suspension.
David

Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:34 PM   #1183
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Originally Posted by Happy515Camper View Post
Grade 8 fasteners are equivalent to stock 10.9. Even if they weren't the bolts in the JK suspension resist force perpendicular to the long axis of the bolt; this is called shear. There is minimal clamping force the bolt and nut provide. Just think about your receiver trailer hitch, that main pin is retained by the little pin because there is no force applied in that direction. I have grade 5 top lock nuts on my suspension.
David

Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart
So yes ... It's fine ? and from how i understand this, Even grade 9 bolts/nuts is overkill?

I was looking at it at-as for as the 125 torque spec.
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:37 PM   #1184
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Sorry if this has been covered... What TB bolts would I use on a '13 with JKS track bars?
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:18 PM   #1185
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So yes ... It's fine ? and from how i understand this, Even grade 9 bolts/nuts is overkill?

I was looking at it at-as for as the 125 torque spec.
Sorry, Yes in my opinion replacement grade 8 bolts are equivalent to the stock 10.9 bolts.
David
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:15 PM   #1186
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I assume you have the older style ?
RK just released a new joint and will work with 9/16 hardware.

You should be able to ream the old style to work easily.
I have a RK 3.5" dual sport sitting in my garage. Pretty sure it is the new joints too. So I should be good with the 9/16s as well you think?
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:53 AM   #1187
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Is there a set of torque specs for the bolts? or is it in the kit (which I do not have in-hand yet)?
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #1188
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Is there a set of torque specs for the bolts? or is it in the kit (which I do not have in-hand yet)?
All lower CA's and 4 Tb bolts 125 ft lbs. upper front CA's 75 ft lbs. upper rear CA's 125 ft lbs.
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:36 AM   #1189
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Originally Posted by Raiderfan001 View Post
I have a RK 3.5" dual sport sitting in my garage. Pretty sure it is the new joints too. So I should be good with the 9/16s as well you think?
Won't hurt since the new joints take 9/16
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:46 AM   #1190
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Does anyone know what the difference between the northridge kit and the synergy kit is? Besides the price difference? Thanks!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:25 PM   #1191
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Does anyone know what the difference between the northridge kit and the synergy kit is? Besides the price difference? Thanks!
Synergy are F9 bolts and Northridge are grade 8--F9s are more expensive.

One of the Synergy kits also replaces the upper control arm bolts.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:29 PM   #1192
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I'm sure this has been posted but just in case... The Mopar 2" lift uses 9/16" width bolts so we aren't crazy after all.

http://www.mopar.com/assets/pdf/lift...183-JK%202.pdf
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:40 PM   #1193
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Thank you for this information. I can't believe that the Jeep design could possibly have moving parts on threads...

I just ordered the complete synergy set (upper/lower and both track bar bolt upgrades) from poly performance. Free shipping.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:20 PM   #1194
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Disregard...
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:23 PM   #1195
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Edit: lol ^^

Listen, grade 8 is fine. People found kits elsewhere cheaper.


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Old 08-08-2013, 11:11 AM   #1196
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Just got the Northridge Grade 8 kit. For installation is it advisable to use any anti-seize or thread locking compound on them?

Can I install this kit while the Jeep is on the ground without affecting alignment or pre-load on any of the bushings. Replace them 1 by 1 I assume to make sure no geometry changes but before I tackle this project this weekend I wanted to be prepared with thread locker if needed.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:18 AM   #1197
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Just got the Northridge Grade 8 kit. For installation is it advisable to use any anti-seize or thread locking compound on them?

Can I install this kit while the Jeep is on the ground without affecting alignment or pre-load on any of the bushings. Replace them 1 by 1 I assume to make sure no geometry changes but before I tackle this project this weekend I wanted to be prepared with thread locker if needed.
Flat ground yes. It's actually a must to do so OR the bushings will be preloaded.
Anti seize? I don't think so. Iirc it will affect the ability to hold torque.

The nuts supplied are locking.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:09 PM   #1198
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Just got the Northridge Grade 8 kit. For installation is it advisable to use any anti-seize or thread locking compound on them?

Can I install this kit while the Jeep is on the ground without affecting alignment or pre-load on any of the bushings. Replace them 1 by 1 I assume to make sure no geometry changes but before I tackle this project this weekend I wanted to be prepared with thread locker if needed.
If your bracket bolt holes are ovaled, it may affect your steering wheel center a small amount, but it won't affect your alignment.

If you live where they salt and chemical the roads extremely heavy in the winter, I would use anti seize on the bolts. At 125 ft lbs, it won't affect your torque spec.

I use anti seize on all my suspension bolts and jam nuts, and I regularly retorque the bolts after big wheeling trips and after every oil change.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:16 PM   #1199
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If your bracket bolt holes are ovaled, it may affect your steering wheel center a small amount, but it won't affect your alignment.

If you live where they salt and chemical the roads extremely heavy in the winter, I would use anti seize on the bolts. At 125 ft lbs, it won't affect your torque spec.

I use anti seize on all my suspension bolts and jam nuts, and I regularly retorque the bolts after big wheeling trips and after every oil change.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:14 PM   #1200
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If your bracket bolt holes are ovaled, it may affect your steering wheel center a small amount, but it won't affect your alignment.

If you live where they salt and chemical the roads extremely heavy in the winter, I would use anti seize on the bolts. At 125 ft lbs, it won't affect your torque spec.

I use anti seize on all my suspension bolts and jam nuts, and I regularly retorque the bolts after big wheeling trips and after every oil change.
thank you and yes it's a salty hell here in the winter. Delaware's solution for winter weather is lay down a crap ton of salt and if that doesn't work add more. I will put a dab of antiseize on them so in the spring or summer when I finally lift it the bolts won't be too bad. The Jeep is only 3.5 months old so I hope they are not ovaled already! Freaking Jeep, nice work on the threading tearing up the holes. Seriously in 6 years they couldn't get on board with not installing the 14mm bolts fully threaded.....

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