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Old 08-09-2013, 08:00 AM   #1201
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thank you and yes it's a salty hell here in the winter. Delaware's solution for winter weather is lay down a crap ton of salt and if that doesn't work add more. I will put a dab of antiseize on them so in the spring or summer when I finally lift it the bolts won't be too bad. The Jeep is only 3.5 months old so I hope they are not ovaled already! Freaking Jeep, nice work on the threading tearing up the holes. Seriously in 6 years they couldn't get on board with not installing the 14mm bolts fully threaded.....
What's up, fellow 10A runner? I am installing my Northridge G8 kit today. Let me know how yours turns out.

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Old 08-10-2013, 08:20 PM   #1202
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Been doing some reading... what's the benefit of using Synergy grade 9 vs. Northridge grade 8 kit?

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Old 08-10-2013, 09:14 PM   #1203
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Been doing some reading... what's the benefit of using Synergy grade 9 vs. Northridge grade 8 kit?

.
$$$

I asked this question to a friend who's a engineer and a engineer I work with. The grade 9 is stronger but complete overkill for our JK. Harder to source also.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:43 PM   #1204
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What's up, fellow 10A runner? I am installing my Northridge G8 kit today. Let me know how yours turns out.
did you get the kit on? I am postponing mine another week at least. I had surgery 5 wks ago and was supposed to be restricted from lifting pushing or pulling >20lbs for 6 wks total so I am going to hold out another week or so before I go cranking on these bolts. Figure 125ft lbs even on a long clicker style torque wrench may be close to overdoing it for me. I am paranoid now though that the holes are going to be jacked up already.

With regard to the grade 8 vs grade 9, someone posted a link to the description of what makes the bolts either grade and grade 8 was like 120,000lbs shear force and the grade 9s were like 150,000 or something. Unless you are doing some serious high speed baja style jumping/running 120,000 seems like it should more then cover these individual joints.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:55 PM   #1205
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$$$

I asked this question to a friend who's a engineer and a engineer I work with. The grade 9 is stronger but complete overkill for our JK. Harder to source also.
I googled the question this morning and found a link that took me to a write up on Pirate4x4 which ultimately led me to a book on Amazon.

Your friend is spot on ...



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Old 08-10-2013, 10:12 PM   #1206
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The stock bolts are 10.9 grade which have the same tensile strength as grade 8

Bet most don't know this? It's the size difference and the shoulder that fit the Jk mount holes better and don't wear the mounts/bushings

Probably why they started offering the 9 because the tensile strength is stronger then 10.9/8 even though its overkill.
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:52 AM   #1207
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I am curious, is there a correct sequence to getting to the bolts on the TB and LCAs? I understand that the job can be done while the Jeep is on the ground, but I was wondering about what comes first. Thanks.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:51 AM   #1208
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I am curious, is there a correct sequence to getting to the bolts on the TB and LCAs? I understand that the job can be done while the Jeep is on the ground, but I was wondering about what comes first. Thanks.
It doesn't matter. As long as you replace just one bolt at a time, you are good.

The torquing of bolts absolutely must be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the springs.

The job is easier if you have a heavy duty ratchet strap handy--in case anything shifts or a bolt is binding from a load.

The front trackbar bolts are easier if you have a helper to turn the steering system to help line up bracket bolt holes and bushing holes if their is some sort of binding or load on them.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:11 PM   #1209
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I was able to position a jack under the CA mount then push the tire in and chuck to hold in place.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:02 AM   #1210
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I've only had my 2012 JKU CoD for 6 weeks. I've got 14k miles and no wobble. Are all JK's affected? Should I do this ASAP to prevent any ovaling or additional damage? Thanks for a great thread!!
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:12 AM   #1211
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I've only had my 2012 JKU CoD for 6 weeks. I've got 14k miles and no wobble. Are all JK's affected? Should I do this ASAP to prevent any ovaling or additional damage? Thanks for a great thread!!
Oh I also have the rough country 2.5" lift (installed already when I bought it). Maybe they did the bolt swap already??
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:08 PM   #1212
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I've only had my 2012 JKU CoD for 6 weeks. I've got 14k miles and no wobble. Are all JK's affected? Should I do this ASAP to prevent any ovaling or additional damage? Thanks for a great thread!!
I own a 2013 and as far as I can tell from this thread it affects all JK's. I will be checking my bolts tomorrow to confirm if I have 14mm or 9/16 bolt.
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:05 AM   #1213
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All JKs have 14 mm trackbar bolts from the factory. The purpose is to facilitate the assembly process, and keep most everything metric.
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:20 PM   #1214
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Is it worth it to do the uppers at the same time? I know getting there is gonna be a pita but if its worth it I'm gonna do it. I think I have more time offroad then on and can only imagine what the bushings look like already
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:47 PM   #1215
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The primary ones that I suggest are the front trackbar bolts.

The lower arms and rear trackbar are nice to do but not as critical.

The upper arm bolts don't see as much force as the lowers.

If you are going to install upper arms or inspect the bushings anyway, it certainly is an upgrade to go with shouldered bolts.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:54 PM   #1216
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Have read every post in this thread. Major kudos to planman and all the other pioneers for their efforts into diagnosing and (hopefully!) resolving this situation.

I've ordered the Northridge kit, and will be looking to do the install on my 2013 JKUR once it arrives this Friday (gives me time to acquire the necessary tools).

Peace!
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:02 AM   #1217
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Bought my JKUS two months ago...have read this thread through and am somewhat concerned but have a few questions. At the moment, mine is on road only. Plan on doing some mudding with a friend, but thats all for now. Sometime in the next year or so, I am wanting to take it out to Colorado to visit some family and hopefully take the Jeep out for some fun while there. Is this something I should be concerned with in the short term, being predominately on road for now?

Thanks for any advice!
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:11 PM   #1218
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Bought my JKUS two months ago...have read this thread through and am somewhat concerned but have a few questions. At the moment, mine is on road only. Plan on doing some mudding with a friend, but thats all for now. Sometime in the next year or so, I am wanting to take it out to Colorado to visit some family and hopefully take the Jeep out for some fun while there. Is this something I should be concerned with in the short term, being predominately on road for now?

Thanks for any advice!
The primary concern is that you should retorque your front trackbar bolts at the very least at every oil change interval.

If you want to upgrade, then do a 9/16" bolt kit.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:16 AM   #1219
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The primary ones that I suggest are the front trackbar bolts.

The lower arms and rear trackbar are nice to do but not as critical.

The upper arm bolts don't see as much force as the lowers.

If you are going to install upper arms or inspect the bushings anyway, it certainly is an upgrade to go with shouldered bolts.
Ok thanks much planman. I'm gonna be looking at doing this this comming weekend.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:27 PM   #1220
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I'm new to this thread and I was hoping someone could save me from having to read all 41 pages. Is this still an issue on the '14 LCA's? I also plan on installing a RK lift at some point but it looks like from what I've read the newer RK control arms no longer need to be reamed out, is that correct?
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:10 PM   #1221
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I'm new to this thread and I was hoping someone could save me from having to read all 41 pages. Is this still an issue on the '14 LCA's? I also plan on installing a RK lift at some point but it looks like from what I've read the newer RK control arms no longer need to be reamed out, is that correct?
Yes and yes.

They use smaller bolts to facilitate the manufacturing process. I don't know why they use fully threaded bolts.

As long as the factory bolts are regularly retorqued, they don't pose a significant problem. However, at least upgrading the front trackbar bolts is what I recommend.

If you are installing a lift, there is no reason not to spend a little extra money and upgrade the bolts at the same time.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:37 AM   #1222
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Just changed out the axle side front track bar bolt with flagged nut. Bolt/nut coming out was 21mm and the Northridge 9/16th's bolt/nut going on are 22mm (probably 7/8th's but 22mm fit really well).

I did notice that the bushing in the track bar after 3500 easy miles was starting to show signs of the threads chewing into it already. Once loosened there was a tremendous amount of play in the with stock bolt in hole. The 9/16's fit like a glove in the bushing but the bracket holes are horribly ovalized and probably had 3mm or more of play! Is this normal or did they ovalize since production? Wow is all I have to say, it's almost like the bracket holes were ovalized on purpose to allow for adjustment but I can't imagine the need in this application.
I'll post picture with the 9/16th's bolt in and the extra space in the bracket hole because it's really shocking to me at least.

Torqued down to 125ft lbs with 22mm box wrench on the nut wedged on something up there to prevent it from moving.

1 down 9 to go

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Old 10-16-2013, 12:10 PM   #1223
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:00 PM   #1224
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I saw this thread before I bought my 2012. I ordered the bolt kit before I even had the Jeep, and replaced them the first week I had it. After nearly two years, I have never had a single issue having to do with suspension, including even the SLIGHTEST hint of death wobble. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade IMHO.
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:58 PM   #1225
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Can anyone indicate where exactly these replacement bolts go? Is there a picture or schematic showing this?
I just ordered a kit, want to make sure I know which ones to replace.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:29 PM   #1226
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All the lower control arms and the front and rear track bar
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:28 PM   #1227
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Track bar bracket axle side

2012 JKU with 47,000 miles.
Stock except for aluminum front bumper, winch and front leveling puck. Stock tire size but switched out to snow tire tread.
Experienced death wobble. Suspension bolt upgrade done previous to the DW by a garage. Not sure they did the best job, rear control arm bolt fell out a few days latter. They forced a 9/16 bolt through the 14mm frame side track bar bushing and 14mm bracket hole.
Looked at Planman's videos and diagnosed:
Bad ball joints.
Bad drag link ends.
Bad tie rod ends.
Bad track bar bushings.
Ovaled out track bar bracket bolt holes - axle and frame ends.

Have not checked the upper and lower control arms, but will.
Have checked wheels and tires for balance and roundness.

Seeking advise on:
The best axle side track bar bracket. Would prefer a bolt on since I don't weld. Not much to choose from for a non lifted Jeep.
Or would weld nuts be the way to go.
Teraflex track bar.
Tie rod ends.
Drag link ends.

Also looking for a shop in Montgomery County MD to weld the track bar bracket or weld nuts.

Thanks,
Michael
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:38 AM   #1228
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Anyone change out the bolts using the RK lca's? How is it drilling them to fit the 9/16" shouldered bolts?
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #1229
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I saw this thread before I bought my 2012. I ordered the bolt kit before I even had the Jeep, and replaced them the first week I had it. After nearly two years, I have never had a single issue having to do with suspension, including even the SLIGHTEST hint of death wobble. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade IMHO.

However, that doesn't mean a problem was necessarily averted. I have 92k on a lifted 09 with the stock bolts and not the slightest issue as well. Definitely a worthwhile pass IMHO.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:08 AM   #1230
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Odd that a lot of dealers have no idea this issue even exists. One of the deciding factors for me when choosing a dealer was the fact that the dealer knew about this and included the bolt kit with the purchase.

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