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Old 05-09-2013, 02:24 AM   #61
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Not exactly clear how far you are now, but using a line converter you'll want to hook all the respective outputs of the factory amp to the LOC. LOC output goes to RCA connections for the amplifier. I would run 2 amps, 1 for sub and 1 for speakers. I can't tell you how many 5 channels I've blown. I only run alpine amps now, and I've had good luck, so maybe you'll be OK.
My recommend would be:
1) going with the MRX-F65 4-chan which has more power to push the 4 components
2) going with the DVC 8" polk sub rather than the SVC
3) wiring the coils in parallel and pushing with the TINY alpine MRV-250

Now, check the factory wire gauge where you tapped in with the LOC. As you're going to be pushing a lot more power to those 4 speaker locations, you'll need 16ga at minimum, preferably 14ga. Unfortunately, my guess is it's going to be 20 or 22ga.
If it is 16ga, that's lucky, and you should be fine. In that case I would simply cut the wires -- 1 end will go into the LOC, and the other end will be spliced to the new amp output. Sub wire need to be 14ga at minimum, hook up the same way.

If the wire gauge is too small, you'll need to route wire directly from the amplifier to the speakers. Use all the same lengths.

As for wiring, run the speaker power wires and amp power far away from the LOC and the LOC outputs. It shouldn't matter if you have shielded RCA cables, but why take the chance, right?

For the remote in, put a tester to the factory amp power cable to check to see if it turns on/off with the radio, if so, daisy chain your remote wires to that and you are done.

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Old 05-09-2013, 04:55 PM   #62
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What is the max size mid bass speaker you all think would fit in the sound bar?

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Old 05-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #63
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What is the max size mid bass speaker you all think would fit in the sound bar?
Without modification? 6 3/4". 6 1/2" if you want a better selection.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #64
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I'm sure a 7" speaker may fit (Kenwood makes one) as well... I took mine out and measured the woofer and it's pretty large. Definitely not a real 6.5" as listed, closer to a 6.75" or even larger. Again, there might be issues with mounting depth depending on what you try to put in there.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:00 PM   #65
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I'm sure a 7" speaker may fit (Kenwood makes one) as well... I took mine out and measured the woofer and it's pretty large. Definitely not a real 6.5" as listed, closer to a 6.75" or even larger. Again, there might be issues with mounting depth depending on what you try to put in there.
You're really not gaining anything with a poorer quality 7" and 6.75" // 6.5" are the same really.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:27 PM   #66
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I'm probably going to just remove the sport bar speakers. With a good set of front components, powered properly, and a sub all should be good.

I have a 12w6v2 that I can reuse from my last car. I don't think that stealth box is worth the money.

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Old 05-10-2013, 11:52 PM   #67
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You're really not gaining anything with a poorer quality 7" and 6.75" // 6.5" are the same really.
My point was that the woofer is not a real 6.5", it's an uncommon size and most speakers will need a bracket anyway. Only the Kickers that were made for Mopar are direct fit without a bracket (that I know of). Won't get much mid-bass response out of the shallow soundbar anyway...

When I replace I'll put 6.5" with brackets.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:54 AM   #68
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My point was that the woofer is not a real 6.5", it's an uncommon size and most speakers will need a bracket anyway. Only the Kickers that were made for Mopar are direct fit without a bracket (that I know of). Won't get much mid-bass response out of the shallow soundbar anyway...

When I replace I'll put 6.5" with brackets.
Wouldn't trust kicker as far as I could throw em
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:07 AM   #69
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The real way would be to start from scratch. The speakers, speaker placement, weak amp, etc all has to go.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:26 AM   #70
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I know I never cared for the Kicker systems in the SRTs...

The Boston Acoustics sounded WAY better.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:41 AM   #71
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I've run a front sound stage only in previous cars. Frankly, having full range speakers over your head or behind you is a bit unnatural. When was the last concert you went to that someone sang from behind you?

Good front component set powered properly (3 way with midbass) and a nice sub should be all anyone needs. I don't care about my passengers.


Where are people hiding their amps other than under seats?
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:53 AM   #72
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I've run a front sound stage only in previous cars. Frankly, having full range speakers over your head or behind you is a bit unnatural. When was the last concert you went to that someone sang from behind you?

Good front component set powered properly (3 way with midbass) and a nice sub should be all anyone needs. I don't care about my passengers.


Where are people hiding their amps other than under seats?
This absolutely is the right way to do it. Rear should be nothing or just fill, but it's pretty tough to do that without unless you do an extreme fade to the front or have a DSP of sorts.

Re: amps, I was thinking a false floor could be a good way to go.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:55 AM   #73
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This absolutely is the right way to do it. Rear should be nothing or just fill, but it's pretty tough to do that without unless you do an extreme fade to the front or have a DSP of sorts.

Re: amps, I was thinking a false floor could be a good way to go.

I'm trying to find a dry location just in case. Under seat seems like a good place but I was hoping someone had found a place under the dash.

It would also be nice to know what the max mounting depth for the dash would be.

6.5" seems reasonable but some of the better components have deep mounting midbass due to magnet size.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #74
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Also unimpressed that a $40 k vehicle wouldn't come standard with some of the best audio equipment available. I will be stalking here.
Then you must be unimpressed with Chrysler in general... have you looked at their $50K and $60K vehicles?



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Old 05-11-2013, 09:47 AM   #75
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Most factory audio systems are trash, this is why guys like us swap good stuff in. Not just Chrysler. They put the cheapest stuff in that will be adequate for most of the buyers. Those like us who want good sound can swap.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:47 PM   #76
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Most factory audio systems are trash, this is why guys like us swap good stuff in. Not just Chrysler. They put the cheapest stuff in that will be adequate for most of the buyers. Those like us who want good sound can swap.
Confirmed. Ford was no better. At least on the 2010 Escape it was crappy too....

I went through the same thought process in the Escape - keep the stock HU. Did the Lc6i route, amp, sub and new speakers. Ended up doing a new DD Pioneer unit to drive the goods.

As far as rear fill, I personally like a bit of rear fill. Most of the sound is coming from the front components. I do rear fill to blend in the sound to how I like it and not at all for any other guests (no rear seat). The concert comparison is sort of useless as you don't have rear tire/wheel well noise and traffic noise at a concert.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:48 PM   #77
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Has anybody used Hertz speakers? My local audio guy, recommended them to replace factory speakers. Also he is quoting $450 labor to install the amp, LCI, 4 Gauge, speakers, Lockpick, front and rear cameras. CB radio with antenna and LED fog lights to boot. Good deal?
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:52 PM   #78
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Has anybody used Hertz speakers? My local audio guy, recommended them to replace factory speakers. Also he is quoting $450 labor to install the amp, LCI, 4 Gauge, speakers, Lockpick, front and rear cameras. CB radio with antenna and LED fog lights to boot. Good deal?
yeah I think that is worth the price of labor .
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:59 PM   #79
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You call this thread the REAL way and your not running a new +12v line to your new amp or no new speaker wiring? Shame shame..

You should run a dedicated line from the battery to the inside of the cabin. You will need a large gauge +12v line for your new amp regardless. Probably an 8 gauge at a minimum (depending on aftermarket amp requirements).

From there you should run a relay that can be triggered from the switched +12v from the cig A/C adaptor plug. That is the easiest way to get switched power. That or the fuse box as you mentioned (if that fuse location is switched +12v). The relay will flip on, the power from the battery will go through the relay and onto your items (amp, LCi). Then you can split power (using a fused d-block) to run your LCi. You can use powered for both power and remote as each just needs +12v.

As mentioned you need to direct the speaker inputs post amp into the LCi then RCA to your new amp. Then run new wire to each speaker. You will want new and bigger gauge wiring for speakers. Stock gauge is too small IMO.

Do it right and get the supplies you need ahead of time. Then map it out and begin the process. Dedicate a weekend for it. Have fun and take your time. DO a search on my posts for my audio install. I have been through all of this before using an LCi and I hated it (previous vehicle). Going to the Jeep I got the cheapo 130 stereo knowing it was gonna last about 5 hours.

Update: That alpine amp requires 4 gauge. You need to get a nice 4 gauge install kit. I recommend Knuconcepts. That is what I have. You have a lot of work ahead of you my friend.

Lastly I prefer to never run anything off of the Jeep CANBus system. Every single item of electronics (and I have a shitload) run off of the battery through a relay that is powered by switched power. In my system I am using a harness for my aftermarket HU and I grab the switched from there. No issues with frying anything and can never have a deny in warranty if something goes bad.
I've got 2013, stay away from tapping into canbus, I tried just to change my dome lights to LED, Canbus didn't like that!
I'd leave all factory wiring alone, and just run new separate wiring, then you ever want to go back its easy......
Good luck
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:00 PM   #80
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Labour price seems very reasonable, I would say that's most of a day's work there.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:11 PM   #81
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I've run a front sound stage only in previous cars. Frankly, having full range speakers over your head or behind you is a bit unnatural. When was the last concert you went to that someone sang from behind you?
Good point but I`ve always used and liked the rears for 'fill'. Unfortunately the rears in the JK are in an unnatural position due to the soundbar. Overall, the acoustics in the JK are quite poor in my opinion. However, with sound dampening material and good speakers (with sufficient power) I see no reason why good sound cannot be made in the soundbar.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:02 PM   #82
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I've run a front sound stage only in previous cars. Frankly, having full range speakers over your head or behind you is a bit unnatural. When was the last concert you went to that someone sang from behind you?

Good front component set powered properly (3 way with midbass) and a nice sub should be all anyone needs. I don't care about my passengers.


Where are people hiding their amps other than under seats?
When was the last concert you went to where you had wind howling past the top of your head at 70mph? I'm not sure it's a fair comparison to make.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:09 PM   #83
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When was the last concert you went to where you had wind howling past the top of your head at 70mph? I'm not sure it's a fair comparison to make.
I agree. I think most are looking for better sound that you can actually hear when you put the top down. Getting "concert" or a tube amp session in a vehicle isn't going to happen.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:34 PM   #84
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I still think the overhead sport bar is a waste of money to invest in. A good set of front components with a sub should be all you need. Top down sound is all about volume, so I agree with you on that point.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:37 AM   #85
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I put the amp for my sub in the little cubby bin in the back. Couldn't be easier or more stealthy! No overheating or any other problems. Short of ripping the dash apart, I looked and looked but there just doesn't appear to be anywhere under there that is good for mounting an amp.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:47 AM   #86
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The real way would be to start from scratch. The speakers, speaker placement, weak amp, etc all has to go.
^This...
If you want the best sound, tear it all out.

If you want to keep the factory HU for stealth and/or Connectivity.....work down stream of the factory amp and its issues.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:50 PM   #87
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I got everything installed and configured this weekend. It sounds incredible - 100% worth all the time and money. I never thought a wrangler could sound this good.

Pictures and more info coming.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:02 PM   #88
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Use all the same lengths.
????
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:25 PM   #89
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Probably referring to setting up full audiophile systems, you use speaker wire all the same length so there are no timing differences introduced by the delay for the signal to get down a short wire vs a long one.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:29 PM   #90
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Probably referring to setting up full audiophile systems, you use speaker wire all the same length so there are no timing differences introduced by the delay for the signal to get down a short wire vs a long one.
Perhaps, but we're talking about a Jeep here, so the lengths aren't much of an issue. Secondly, you won't notice any sort of timing issue outside of extreme length differences. Thirdly, audiophile + Jeep = lol.

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