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Old 05-02-2013, 11:26 PM   #1
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the REAL way to upgrade the factory audio in '13 JK

SO LETS GET RID OF THE CRAP FACTORY AUDIO SYSTEM!


i know there are a lot of threads on audio. searched high and low but didnt find what i want to discuss. here is the deal, and im guessing there are several of you in the same boat... I paid a lot for the 730N (2013 Rubi 10th Anniversary) with 'Premium Audio' so i want to keep the head unit (and i actually like the sirius integration and related functionality). However, i want to upgrade EVERYTHING else.

Many recommendations in several threads on speakers, amps, line converters, dynamat, etc etc yada yada. great, SO i ordered all that and its sitting here at my house in a pile:

AudioControl LC7i - Line Converter
Polk MM651 speakers for the sound bar
Polk MM6501 component speakers for the dash
Polk MM840 sub for the factory enclosure
Alpine PDXV9 to power all the speakers and sub

I started looking at exactly how im going to wire this setup... but one thing has left me dumbfounded. I cant find info on how to wire up the AudioControl LC7i line converter (many have said this is the way to go - and really the ONLY way to keep the head unit and get great sound)

From what i have read, i need to attach the speaker wires that are coming out of the factory amp under the dash, to the Speaker Level Inputs on the LC7i. I plan to place the LC7i right next to the factory amp under the dash. From there i can run my RCA cables to the new Amp which will be under the drivers seat. I would love to hear from someone that has done this, so i can figure out the best way to do the following:

- The LC7i needs a 12V power source. What do i tap into to get this? I am assuming i can use an existing 12v wire running to the factory amp? right? Or do i have to go to the battery? i also read that i can tap into the 12v outlet in the center console. Im confused here. whats the 'right' way to do this?

- The LC7i has an input for 'Remote In'. the instructions say that this 'may not be needed' for certain cars. what about our JKs? Do i need to wire this, and if so, what existing wire do i use for this? I am assuming the 'Remote Out' would host the wire that will go to my new amp.

Im not exactly a moron, but i am little hesitant to start cutting wires and ripping up my beloved rubicon and then end up standing in front of the mess scratching my head. Im no electrician.

thanks for reading this and I hope to hear back from you guys!

Thanks!

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Old 05-03-2013, 07:35 AM   #2
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Does the line converter hook up after the amp, or before? Before seems like it would make more sense to me... Or can you wire up your RCAs to the 730 output? If those go directly into an amp, are they line level already?

Double check the voltage the amp uses for the signal turn on, it might be 7v or something wierd, my current F-150 is so i had to look elsewhere.

I would run main amp power straight from the battery, it will more than likely pull more power than the stocker, and if the factory amp has to remain in there, then it is still pulling power over that wire too.

Sounds awesome, take lots of pics!!!

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Old 05-03-2013, 08:01 AM   #3
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Also unimpressed that a $40 k vehicle wouldn't come standard with some of the best audio equipment available. I will be stalking here.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:19 AM   #4
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Does the line converter hook up after the amp, or before? Before seems like it would make more sense to me... Or can you wire up your RCAs to the 730 output? If those go directly into an amp, are they line level already?

Double check the voltage the amp uses for the signal turn on, it might be 7v or something wierd, my current F-150 is so i had to look elsewhere.

I would run main amp power straight from the battery, it will more than likely pull more power than the stocker, and if the factory amp has to remain in there, then it is still pulling power over that wire too.

Sounds awesome, take lots of pics!!!
It made sense to me as well that we should be able to just remove the factory amp. apparently the head units dont have RCA outs to go to our new amps (among other things like retaining balance/fade, etc), so the factory amp needs to stay. that is the reason for the LC7i, which is made to hook into an existing factory amp. it cleans everything coming out of the factory amp, so the new amp gets clear frequencies to work with.

yes, the new amp battery will def hook into the battery. Do you know if i can just hook the 12v wire for the LC7i into the power wire used by the new amp? I see my new alpine amp has an input voltage of 14.4v. Im trying to translate the little bit i know about electricity in my house - 120v vs 12v lights - which of course require a transformer. Does that come into play here? Can i intermix 12v and 14.4v? damn i feel dumb. Years ago i did a full system replacement in my 2003 rubi, and that was simple... mostly because i just plugged the new amp into the new head unit.

Im guessing there's got to be a 12v wire or circuit somewhere close to the radio or under the dash. that would be ideal. i think this is the only missing link in this install. If i can figure out the 12v and Remote In issues, i'll get the install started and take pics.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:33 PM   #5
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14.4v is the real voltage of a nominal 12v system when the engine is running, about 13.6 just a fully charged battery, so yes.

Is the cigarette lighter switched?

I don't have mine for another week or so so I cannot go look for myself.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:46 PM   #6
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Ok cool... good info on the 14.4v stuff!

Steve, yes, looks like we could go to the cig lighter, but i dont think we need to...

after some reading, it seems like the best option to power the line converter is to go to the fuse box. this is the least intrusive option I have found. No splicing of wires, etc. Plus we get a dedicated fuse, which is good. So i will plan to run the 12v wire for the LC7i through the firewall, with the amp wire. While the amp wire goes to the battery, i'll use this Add-A-Fuse gadget for the line converter. Seem super simple. I'll just need to find the right available fuse slot - thats a TBD. The fuse will need to be on with the key in the ignition, but the engine doesnt need to be started to draw power for this. not sure if that impacts which fuse slot i use. thoughts?

google Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse for more info. Amazon sells this for $4. looks like most auto parts stores will have it too.

Now, just need to figure out what to do about the Remote In wire. Needed or not? if so, what wire do i use??


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Old 05-03-2013, 12:56 PM   #7
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:03 PM   #8
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Ok cool... good info on the 14.4v stuff!

Steve, yes, looks like we could go to the cig lighter, but i dont think we need to...

after some reading, it seems like the best option to power the line converter is to go to the fuse box. this is the least intrusive option I have found. No splicing of wires, etc. Plus we get a dedicated fuse, which is good. So i will plan to run the 12v wire for the LC7i through the firewall, with the amp wire. While the amp wire goes to the battery, i'll use this Add-A-Fuse gadget for the line converter. Seem super simple. I'll just need to find the right available fuse slot - thats a TBD. The fuse will need to be on with the key in the ignition, but the engine doesnt need to be started to draw power for this. not sure if that impacts which fuse slot i use. thoughts?

google Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse for more info. Amazon sells this for $4. looks like most auto parts stores will have it too.

Now, just need to figure out what to do about the Remote In wire. Needed or not? if so, what wire do i use??
Used the cig lighter for a remote. I did and it works fine.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:05 PM   #9
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And for running the speaker wire to and from the in line converter, it helps to order a few feet of speed wire. Makes a much cleaner set up and easier to install.

link to speedwire http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...peed-wire.html
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #10
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Used the cig lighter for a remote. I did and it works fine.
Ok, cool thanks for the info. Looks like a good option.

Do you know anything about the 'Remote In'? Im assuming it turns the line converter on/off when the head unit is on/off. Not sure if this is needed when using the LC7i.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:11 PM   #11
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And for running the speaker wire to and from the in line converter, it helps to order a few feet of speed wire. Makes a much cleaner set up and easier to install.

link to speedwire 9 Conductor Speed Wire Speaker Cable at Sonic Electronix
What did you use this wire for? I am thinking that i have to cut the speaker wires coming out of the factory amp, and stick them into the line converter. i hope to do this alongside the factory amp, so i shouldnt need any additional wire. then, after i have the new amp hooked in, i'll run new speaker wire from the amp to the four new speakers and sub. thoughts?
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:11 PM   #12
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Ok, cool thanks for the info. Looks like a good option.

Do you know anything about the 'Remote In'? Im assuming it turns the line converter on/off when the head unit is on/off. Not sure if this is needed when using the LC7i.
Yes, remote in turns the converter and your amps on when the vehicle ignition is on, and off when the vehicle is off. Thay way they are not constantly running.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:13 PM   #13
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Yes, remote in turns the converter and your amps on when the vehicle ignition is on, and off when the vehicle is off. Thay way they are not constantly running.
which wire do i use for this? Is this a certain color on the wire going into the factory amp? if so, would i just splice the existing wire?
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:30 PM   #14
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so i read up on this more. looks like many have taken power from the cig lighter, and also from the fuse box.

Since the LC7i needs both a Remote In wire AND a power wire, can the two wires come from the same source? so basically you could splice into the cig lighter wire, and then splice that new wire so you have two inputs - one for power, and one for remote. Or is that completely stupid? if i just dont hook up the remote wire on the LC7i, will it just turn on whenever the cig lighter is on (assuming im getting power from the lighter)? If it worked that way, i think it would be fine. just wondering if thats do-able.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:11 PM   #15
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You call this thread the REAL way and your not running a new +12v line to your new amp or no new speaker wiring? Shame shame..

You should run a dedicated line from the battery to the inside of the cabin. You will need a large gauge +12v line for your new amp regardless. Probably an 8 gauge at a minimum (depending on aftermarket amp requirements).

From there you should run a relay that can be triggered from the switched +12v from the cig A/C adaptor plug. That is the easiest way to get switched power. That or the fuse box as you mentioned (if that fuse location is switched +12v). The relay will flip on, the power from the battery will go through the relay and onto your items (amp, LCi). Then you can split power (using a fused d-block) to run your LCi. You can use powered for both power and remote as each just needs +12v.

As mentioned you need to direct the speaker inputs post amp into the LCi then RCA to your new amp. Then run new wire to each speaker. You will want new and bigger gauge wiring for speakers. Stock gauge is too small IMO.

Do it right and get the supplies you need ahead of time. Then map it out and begin the process. Dedicate a weekend for it. Have fun and take your time. DO a search on my posts for my audio install. I have been through all of this before using an LCi and I hated it (previous vehicle). Going to the Jeep I got the cheapo 130 stereo knowing it was gonna last about 5 hours.

Update: That alpine amp requires 4 gauge. You need to get a nice 4 gauge install kit. I recommend Knuconcepts. That is what I have. You have a lot of work ahead of you my friend.

Lastly I prefer to never run anything off of the Jeep CANBus system. Every single item of electronics (and I have a shitload) run off of the battery through a relay that is powered by switched power. In my system I am using a harness for my aftermarket HU and I grab the switched from there. No issues with frying anything and can never have a deny in warranty if something goes bad.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:21 PM   #16
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yes yes, i am of course running a dedicated 4 gauge cable from the battery to the new amp, and rewiring the new speakers

thanks for the info! super helpful. cant wait to get this done!

so what part of this work is the biggest pain in the ass?

also, how much tweaking did you end up doing with the LC7i? i would think it would be nice to leave it to its 'defaults' and do the tuning with gain/xover on the amp.
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:21 PM   #17
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:35 PM   #18
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Lynskey, also, do you see a need to use the Remote In on the LC7i? i see now that it will automatically detect a signal from the factory amp. if it does, im not sure its worth dealing with the remote wire. also, i assume i can run a wire from the Remote Out on the LC7i to the alpine amp, regardless if i wire the remote in on the LC7i...
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Old 05-03-2013, 04:50 PM   #19
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How far away are you from 11762? I could help if you wanted it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:21 PM   #20
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How far away are you from 11762? I could help if you wanted it.
thanks dude! but im in minneapolis. loooong ways.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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thanks dude! but im in minneapolis. loooong ways.
Yeah it is. Sorry, never mind.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:10 PM   #22
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Yes, you can daisy chain remote wires.

For a single amp install, full blown switched relays is overkill. Let the amp and its internal switching do its job. I can't imagine running new 18 gauge wire in a Jeep can be all that difficult, you don't even have to wire into doors!

You're going to run unswitched 12v to the amp, switched power over 22g wire to the amp and LC7. This is not a difficult install, don't over think it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:50 PM   #23
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Y'all are making it was too hard lol. Too much over thinking! How and where are the subs gonna be? The stereo system will e my first mod and I'm trying like hell to find a way to maximize space without sacrificing quality. Stealthbox good idea but not
Enough bump with one sub in my opinion, atleast two but I think I'm gonna go with three ten" JL subs but gotta get my jeep to do some measuring! I've built boxes for all my other vehicles so this wont be a problem I'm more worried about amp placement! Want to keep it out of the elements as much as possible, keep it cool (which with a jeep is too hard lol) and would like to keep it some where I can still spray the jeep out and pull the drain plugs with out worrying. Might be too much to ask but ill see what I can come up with!! Any ideas
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:28 AM   #24
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SO LETS GET RID OF THE CRAP FACTORY AUDIO SYSTEM!


i know there are a lot of threads on audio. searched high and low but didnt find what i want to discuss. here is the deal, and im guessing there are several of you in the same boat... I paid a lot for the 730N (2013 Rubi 10th Anniversary) with 'Premium Audio' so i want to keep the head unit (and i actually like the sirius integration and related functionality). However, i want to upgrade EVERYTHING else.

Many recommendations in several threads on speakers, amps, line converters, dynamat, etc etc yada yada. great, SO i ordered all that and its sitting here at my house in a pile:

AudioControl LC7i - Line Converter
Polk MM651 speakers for the sound bar
Polk MM6501 component speakers for the dash
Polk MM840 sub for the factory enclosure
Alpine PDXV9 to power all the speakers and sub

I started looking at exactly how im going to wire this setup... but one thing has left me dumbfounded. I cant find info on how to wire up the AudioControl LC7i line converter (many have said this is the way to go - and really the ONLY way to keep the head unit and get great sound)

From what i have read, i need to attach the speaker wires that are coming out of the factory amp under the dash, to the Speaker Level Inputs on the LC7i. I plan to place the LC7i right next to the factory amp under the dash. From there i can run my RCA cables to the new Amp which will be under the drivers seat. I would love to hear from someone that has done this, so i can figure out the best way to do the following:

- The LC7i needs a 12V power source. What do i tap into to get this? I am assuming i can use an existing 12v wire running to the factory amp? right? Or do i have to go to the battery? i also read that i can tap into the 12v outlet in the center console. Im confused here. whats the 'right' way to do this?

- The LC7i has an input for 'Remote In'. the instructions say that this 'may not be needed' for certain cars. what about our JKs? Do i need to wire this, and if so, what existing wire do i use for this? I am assuming the 'Remote Out' would host the wire that will go to my new amp.

Im not exactly a moron, but i am little hesitant to start cutting wires and ripping up my beloved rubicon and then end up standing in front of the mess scratching my head. Im no electrician.

thanks for reading this and I hope to hear back from you guys!

Thanks!
Thanks CCBB, Just added this forum to required reading
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:43 AM   #25
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Y'all are making it was too hard lol. Too much over thinking! How and where are the subs gonna be? The stereo system will e my first mod and I'm trying like hell to find a way to maximize space without sacrificing quality. Stealthbox good idea but not
Enough bump with one sub in my opinion, atleast two but I think I'm gonna go with three ten" JL subs but gotta get my jeep to do some measuring! I've built boxes for all my other vehicles so this wont be a problem I'm more worried about amp placement! Want to keep it out of the elements as much as possible, keep it cool (which with a jeep is too hard lol) and would like to keep it some where I can still spray the jeep out and pull the drain plugs with out worrying. Might be too much to ask but ill see what I can come up with!! Any ideas
Good luck with all that. I dont think you can get all those options together in one package in a wrangler. Especially the still wash out the rig part.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:05 AM   #26
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Y'all are making it was too hard lol. Too much over thinking! How and where are the subs gonna be? The stereo system will e my first mod and I'm trying like hell to find a way to maximize space without sacrificing quality. Stealthbox good idea but not
Enough bump with one sub in my opinion, atleast two but I think I'm gonna go with three ten" JL subs but gotta get my jeep to do some measuring! I've built boxes for all my other vehicles so this wont be a problem I'm more worried about amp placement! Want to keep it out of the elements as much as possible, keep it cool (which with a jeep is too hard lol) and would like to keep it some where I can still spray the jeep out and pull the drain plugs with out worrying. Might be too much to ask but ill see what I can come up with!! Any ideas
Best bet there might be to install the amp on the inside of the tailgate. I'm going to be doing exactly that in the next couple of weeks.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:37 PM   #27
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how much room is behind/under the glove box?
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #28
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Following this for sure
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:20 PM   #29
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:34 PM   #30
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how much room is behind/under the glove box?
Not sure there's much, and I'd be concerned about cooling in there.

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