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Thoughts on this sPod/SP/DBox alternative?

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24K views 69 replies 27 participants last post by  Apex_seeking  
#1 ·
Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay

I am doing alot of research on wiring setups for various lights, and the SPod/Switch Pros/etc are just way out of the budget. Wiring a couple of things up is one thing but when you start getting to 3-4-5-6 accessories it can turn into a mess. I've seen the DIY builds of these distribution blocks and thought about it...I first considered the DBox but havent gotten any reply communication from them. I stumbled across the item in the link above. For $129 is seems reasonable. Any thoughts? Has anyone by chance also bought from this seller?
 
#2 ·
That looks quite nice for the price. I like you would love an SPod, but I'm not going to pay the kind of money they're asking for it. I'm looking for a simple solution for a set of driving lights and reverse lights, and this option looks like it could work very well especially for the price.
 
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#5 ·
The housing looks like a waterproof enclosure (rubber seal). The wiring connections to each accessory would use heat shrink connectors (I would anyway). I think it would be just as good as any other setup.
 
#4 ·
It's my thinking too, especially when this one is setup for 10 total accessories. Just hoping to get some feedback (if lucky enough) for someone on here who may have bought from this seller. It looks like a quality DIY build, uses solid materials and looks like good labeling/setup. I sort of want to get the wiring in place before I get all my lights and accessories over time.
 
C
#6 ·
#7 ·
Depending on your level of skill, you can probably put something similar together for a lot less than $129.

I've got about $50-$60 in my set up, and I'm able to modify or change it if the need arises. With a canned set up, you might be limited in the amount of modification you're able to do.

I chose to build my own for the ability to change or modify in the future, and I also did it because I enjoy figuring out stuff like that.

If it works for you, and you don't see the need for future changes, then go for it.

good luck

Exco
 
#8 ·
Excoastie said:
Depending on your level of skill...

...good luck
Click to expand...
I highlighted the relevant parts for me :D I have wired up many things in the past, but I'm honestly a bit scared to mess with the Jeep and screw something up. I only did my own work in the past with my CJ and XJs, but lately I don't have the time or expertise really any more to be comfortable I'm not going to cause collateral damage. That said, I'm still not going to pay SPod prices because I don't see enough substance over what the OP posted for $129 for my particular application.
 
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#9 ·
I like doing projects too, but I thought about buying the parts and following a number of DIYs out there, but for the time spent and money involved (especially buying some of the stuff in bulk) I dont think i can beat $129. It works up to 10 (5 switches/5 hot) peripheral which is all I think I will ever need. I think I am going to throw a few things on eBay to offset some cost and pull the trigger on this guy. I liked the DBox concept and this beats that 15-20% and is frankly a better quality setup. The sooner I get this the sooner I can buy some extra lights.

I'd still like more input and conversation though :)
 
T
#11 ·
I bought this box from this seller. The main power wire is 8 gauge and I think that could be a little on the small side if you use all 10 circuits so I changed it to a 4 gauge that I found at Tractor Supply. One of my co-workers built the same box. He said he had around $120 in his because all the connectors have to be bought in bulk.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the reply! It's nice seeing a picture of it in place.

thompsjk said:
I bought this box from this seller. The main power wire is 8 gauge and I think that could be a little on the small side if you use all 10 circuits so I changed it to a 4 gauge that I found at Tractor Supply. One of my co-workers built the same box. He said he had around $120 in his because all the connectors have to be bought in bulk.

View attachment 2891465
Click to expand...
 
#16 ·
For some reason my mobile app won't let me post more than one picture per reply but here is one more mounting picture. I just used 2 - 1/4" bolts through the plastic. To make is a bit easier I ran a tap through the plastic to hold the bolts in until i got nuts on. Made it a one person job to install.
 

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#17 ·
That's a really good idea, nice use of space and materials. That location makes it easier from a switch/firewall standpoint also (I like the drivers side firewall point over the small one through foam on the passenger side.)

Thank you for the input!
 
#20 ·
Well I was literally about to ask if it was the same one. Found that on Facebook before but wasn't sure. That answers my question.

I was thinking of maybe going this route later when I add more stuff. Right now one accessory is not enough to warrant it. Lol. I like it though. And even though I could build my own system for less, I doubt I could make it look as clean for much less. Plus I don't really like wiring.

My question is can this system be wired up so that the switches are ignition switched? I dont want people turning on my crap when my doors are off.
 
#21 ·
Simple answer, yes. That is mostly dependent on the switches you get. If you get say a 3 pronged switch this is easy:
* Accessory prong - goes to the light/accessory (in this relay box it would be one of the 5 switch wires, corresponding color goes to the same color wire run to your light/accessory)
* Negative prong - ground
* Positive prong - rather than run to the battery (or this case you could use one of the 5 always hot fused/non-relay wires also) you can run this to a switched fuse in the fuse box. This way the switch will only work when the ignition is on
 
#22 ·
I got the box this past week and installed yesterday! Really nice quality and a great fit next to the battery (I think anyway). MY notes/comments:

* Decided to place to the right (when facing engine) of the battery
* The battery plastic case/housing actually serves as a good mounting point of sorts
* I used a couple of existing metal brackets: One 4"x4" angle bracket and 2 (stacked together and bolted) 3" metal straps
* I cut down the angle bracket to about 1.5"x3.5", and drilled a hole matching the metal bracket on the relay box; one whole on the bracket lined up perfectly with the hole in the battery plastic case
* I plastidipped the brackets and the bolts/nuts; I also used nylon locking nuts to prevent any slipping
* The very edge of the box/brackets rest on the battery, if at all. I am pretty sure if I need to take the battery out I can slide it right out from under the box (I think). If not, easy enough to remove with 2 nuts.
* I took alot of time to really zip tie, run, hide wires, etc. Used extra flexible tubing to hide wires. For example, put some around the entire positive wire up to the 80amp inline fuse.
* Ran the gang of 5 accessories wires to the left, by the battery.
* Ran the gang of 5 switch wires and 5 fused/non-relay wires along the stock wire loom along the back of the engine over to the firewall on the drivers side. He made these longer for me (I think) and they seem to be the perfect length (will be installing switches above the drivers speaker
* Tested everything and seems to be working good. Note my switches I ordered are still in the mail so I couldnt hook up 2 sets of lights. Once I do will run my switch positive wires to a ignition switchable fuse in the stock fuse box...I prefer all my items be switched by ignition (as noted in a post above)

Overall, you cannot beat the price and quality of this compared to an sPod or Switch Pro, and frankly the quality is 100% better than the DBox.

Pics now...I tried to insert labels to help out. Hopefully I didn't miss anything!
 
#27 ·
Some basic round 25amp rocker switches. I dont care for the daystar panels on the a-pillar or down by the gear shifter. Nor do I want to run wires to the middle of the console. The a-pillar replacement panel is OK but I just dont like the look.

I considered push button style buttons, such as plasma glow ones, but they are very long/deep. I plan to put them in the dash to the lower/left of the steering wheel...above the speaker. I ordered a set of 4 in 4 different led colors. I will likely buy 1 more so all 5 are in place and can be wired up, but still deciding.
 

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#28 ·
Finally was able to finish my install today, had to wait for my switched to arrive. I installed the 4 I ordered...I also have 16 others because I was sent 20 of them lol :jawdrop:

I ran 2 wires to the rear, 1 for my OR-Fab bumper leds, and another for some future cubes to mount above the spare tire. I ran these through the rubber grommet where the rear wiper and fluid lines run into the drivers side taillight well. I have the bumper wires running in there from the underside along the trailer harness cables. I have the lights grounded in there as well. For the future wire I have a male spade terminal on the wire to connect power easy once I get lights.

I ran 2 to the front, 1 for a-pillar cubes and the other for a 20" lightbar (which I have but am waiting to install once I get a new front bumper).

Notes:
* I have 1 extra wire from the box for another switch at some point
* I put all my rockers above the front driver speaker, left of the steering wheel, 1 of each color...ordered left to right as the lights are front to rear
* I made jumpers for the ground and power wires to the switches (this saved a ton of wire and hassle)
* Each switch wire from the relay box went to the load prong on the switches
* For power I ran a line with an add-a-circuit to the stock fuse box and connected to unused fuse spot M9. This is switched so they will only come one with the accessory on (don't need to start the engine). I wanted this on purpose just incase were to flip a switch by accident.
* The blue led switch is bright as hell! I may need try a dab of tinted epoxy to try and dim the light, or maybe even swap the switch out.
* I used a 15/16 flat spade drill bit for the wholes.

I think I covered everything. This box and my switch choice saved a ton of $ and was as simple as an sPod at a fraction of the cost...very affordable alternative, and works just as good!

Few more pics...
 
#37 ·
lwclancers said:
* For power I ran a line with an add-a-circuit to the stock fuse box and connected to unused fuse spot M9. This is switched so they will only come one with the accessory on (don't need to start the engine). I wanted this on purpose just incase were to flip a switch by accident.
Click to expand...
Looks very nice. So you were able to use fuse M9? Do you have heated seats? When I was looking for a switched fuse point I tested all the heated seat fuses and got no reading on them no matter what position the ignition was in.

In fact I couldn't find anything to use that didn't require something else be on. Like the tail lights. Even the cig lighter required me to have something plugged in to it before the fuse read as energized. Gave up and wired it to battery but I don't like it.

Maybe I'm over thinking it with the multimeter. But I just assumed since I didn't get a reading, jeep didn't put wiring to accessories I don't have. Or is it like the cig lighter and would only read once the accessory is turned on?
 
#31 ·
That looks nice! It wouldn't work on a Rubicon though unfortunately since the lockers/sway bar switches are there. I just drilled a similar hole to those in my factory A pillar for a Rigid switch that looks very close to those for my LED off road lights.
 
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