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Old 01-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #31
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Crap I just ordered these today before I saw this.

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Old 01-19-2013, 06:08 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matador View Post
It just looks worse the more you unveil. I would cut my loses and return these POS I wouldn't run the risk of a short in the wiring and either damaging the lights or an electrical fire. Those adapters are hideously put together.
Exactly.

I Ordered a sPod the other Day, so I'm just gonna Run my Headlights Off one of the Circuits that I'm not gonna Use. That way, the Lights will get Direct Power, and it'll be done the RIGHT way.

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Old 01-19-2013, 09:09 PM   #33
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I decided to go with a relay setup so I can drive the headlights directly off battery power and just use the factory headlight signal to drive the relay.

I dropped by Radio Shack and picked up a couple of parts:

2x 100uF electrolytic capacitors
2x 1N4001 diodes

The capacitors will keep the relays from flickering. The diodes will keep the current from bleeding back to the Jeep harness and prevent a fault from registering.

I also picked up a couple of relays, some wire, and split loom tubing from the auto parts store.

I bought H13 to H4 adapters when I got my lights so I'm cutting them and using them to wire up everything without having to cut into the factory harness.

I set up the two relays exactly the same. One to drive the low beams, the other to drive the high beams.

I put a ground wire and one leg of the capacitor into a crimp terminal and soldered them in. This one connects to the 86 terminal on the relay. The ground wire from both relays goes to the ground wire of the headlight adapter harness. (middle wire in the H13 plug, white in my harness)

I put the other leg of the capacitor into another crimp terminal along with the diode (band toward the connector) and soldered them in. I then soldered a wire to the other end of the diode. This connector goes on the 85 terminal on the relay. The wire from one relay goes to the low beam wire (the green middle wire in my H4 harness), the other to the high beam wire (the one wire that isn't the ground or the low beam, red in my harness). These trigger the relays.

For power to the 30 terminal on the relay I will run a single wire from the battery (with a fuse right at the battery terminal) to wherever I end up mounting the relays. I have a split near the relays to supply power to both of them from that single wire. Since it's driving LED lights, I don't need heavy wire but if you're running HID lights or something else with a high amp draw, make sure you run heavy enough wire and big enough fuses.

For each of the 87 terminals I'll connect two wires. One wire will go to the driver side and one to the passenger side lights. I won't have it wired up until I install the lights and I know how long I need to make the wires.

I'll whip up a schematic when I get to work on Monday.

Here's a picture of my partially assembled harness. Click on it for a bigger copy of the picture:



I'll be using the fully cut harness on the passenger side so I have access to both ends of each wire. The Jeep side of the cut harness will supply signal and ground for the relays and passenger side headlight. On the driver side I'll cut the green and red wire so I can run a connection to the relays but I'll leave the white wire intact and plug it into the Jeep harness so I don't have to run a separate ground wire for that side.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derf
I decided to go with a relay setup so I can drive the headlights directly off battery power and just use the factory headlight signal to drive the relay.

I dropped by Radio Shack and picked up a couple of parts:

2x 100uF electrolytic capacitors
2x 1N4001 diodes

The capacitors will keep the relays from flickering. The diodes will keep the current from bleeding back to the Jeep harness and prevent a fault from registering.

I also picked up a couple of relays, some wire, and split loom tubing from the auto parts store.

I bought H13 to H4 adapters when I got my lights so I'm cutting them and using them to wire up everything without having to cut into the factory harness.

I set up the two relays exactly the same. One to drive the low beams, the other to drive the high beams.

I put a ground wire and one leg of the capacitor into a crimp terminal and soldered them in. This one connects to the 86 terminal on the relay. The ground wire from both relays goes to the ground wire of the headlight adapter harness. (middle wire in the H13 plug, white in my harness)

I put the other leg of the capacitor into another crimp terminal along with the diode (band toward the connector) and soldered them in. I then soldered a wire to the other end of the diode. This connector goes on the 85 terminal on the relay. The wire from one relay goes to the low beam wire (the green middle wire in my H4 harness), the other to the high beam wire (the one wire that isn't the ground or the low beam, red in my harness). These trigger the relays.

For power to the 30 terminal on the relay I will run a single wire from the battery (with a fuse right at the battery terminal) to wherever I end up mounting the relays. I have a split near the relays to supply power to both of them from that single wire. Since it's driving LED lights, I don't need heavy wire but if you're running HID lights or something else with a high amp draw, make sure you run heavy enough wire and big enough fuses.

For each of the 87 terminals I'll connect two wires. One wire will go to the driver side and one to the passenger side lights. I won't have it wired up until I install the lights and I know how long I need to make the wires.

I'll whip up a schematic when I get to work on Monday.

Here's a picture of my partially assembled harness. Click on it for a bigger copy of the picture:



I'll be using the fully cut harness on the passenger side so I have access to both ends of each wire. The Jeep side of the cut harness will supply signal and ground for the relays and passenger side headlight. On the driver side I'll cut the green and red wire so I can run a connection to the relays but I'll leave the white wire intact and plug it into the Jeep harness so I don't have to run a separate ground wire for that side.
Can't wait to see the finish.
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:03 PM   #35
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Can't wait to see the finish.
Well, the temperature will have dropped at least 30+ degrees by tomorrow morning. It'll be in the mid teens tomorrow with some significant wind and my truck is taking up the whole garage right now. I may not have enough motivation to finish it unless I can talk a friend into letting me use their garage for a couple of hours.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:17 PM   #36
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Well, it decided to start snowing here so I'm certainly not going to get the harness finished today. I'll see what I can work out over the next week or next weekend.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derf
Well, it decided to start snowing here so I'm certainly not going to get the harness finished today. I'll see what I can work out over the next week or next weekend.
During weekend I got my replacement light from a dealer. My first one was on driver side flashes like dance club light and another side come on like it should. After the one bad one was replaced. It works
awesome. No more flicker and I can really read street sign at night. When it fog out, you don't really see the light pointing. It spread out nicely. The picture was taken after the frozen night


Click image for larger version

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Old 01-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duramaxxed View Post
Ok, Unwrapped the Harness Today, and here's what is Inside:

Now...there is NO Flicker on Low Beam at or Off Idle. There IS Flicker on High Beam at Idle and if you Left Off the Gas, Off Idle, go figure...

Another Interesting thing is that the Voltage out of the OE Plug is 13.xxV, however...the Voltage out of THIS Harness Adapter is 12.xxV...I don't have the Exact Decimal Numbers, but there was a Solid 1V Difference.
Can't make it out, but if there's a diode in there that accounts for
the voltage drop (and if there is a diode in there, it's GOING TO FAIL;
if it isn't visible in the photo it is far too small).

As mentioned in earlier posts, components mounted in this fashion
will not survive the vibration environment under the hood.

Cheap aluminium caps are typically -40C to +85C (although you can
get extended temperature range for a bit more) and rated for a ripple current
of less than an amp (again, for a bit more you can get higher
ratings). Heat and overstress will take them out. This isn't a
clean solution, it's a hack...

These comments apply to "derf"s setup as well, parts from RS
aren't reliable in the environment under the hood, and the
1N400x diodes are not intended to be hanging by their leads
(the plastic package will eventually fracture, the diode will fall
apart, relay drive will fail and off go the lights...)

1000uF with a 150mA coil draw and 8VDC drop out
give you less than 60mS hold time on the coil of the relay.

The cap in the headlamp harness is essentially useless
it will supply current to the lamp for all of about 2mS
(once you get to the size of a soda can, it might help
for a headlamp)

-W
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:46 PM   #39
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I emailed them last month asking what their guarantee is that their harness will resolve this flickering issue, and never got a response. I even tried calling them and no one picked up.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:01 PM   #40
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K got the TLG harness. Pretty shoddy quality, but none of the wires are frayed or anything that I feel would be dangerous. No apparent flicker at idle, but flicker on high beam and still some drain down time on the high beams nothing horrible, just doesn't seem like you can flash your high beams as quickly. My plan is to hold onto these until Trucklite releases theirs, this is a good interim fix, but honestly unless the flicker really bothers you as much as it did me, just wait.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:13 PM   #41
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Never Heard back from TLG after I Asked for a Replacement to be Sent Out to me, so I just Filed a Claim against them for my Money Back or a Replacement.

Let's see if that gets a Response.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:52 AM   #42
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I just ordered the Gen 2 harness, and I'm just hoping the problems outlined above are fixed now. I'll report back when I get the harness and get the lights installed.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:07 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by sporty952 View Post
Can't make it out, but if there's a diode in there that accounts for
the voltage drop (and if there is a diode in there, it's GOING TO FAIL;
if it isn't visible in the photo it is far too small).

As mentioned in earlier posts, components mounted in this fashion
will not survive the vibration environment under the hood.

Cheap aluminium caps are typically -40C to +85C (although you can
get extended temperature range for a bit more) and rated for a ripple current
of less than an amp (again, for a bit more you can get higher
ratings). Heat and overstress will take them out. This isn't a
clean solution, it's a hack...

These comments apply to "derf"s setup as well, parts from RS
aren't reliable in the environment under the hood, and the
1N400x diodes are not intended to be hanging by their leads
(the plastic package will eventually fracture, the diode will fall
apart, relay drive will fail and off go the lights...)

1000uF with a 150mA coil draw and 8VDC drop out
give you less than 60mS hold time on the coil of the relay.

The cap in the headlamp harness is essentially useless
it will supply current to the lamp for all of about 2mS
(once you get to the size of a soda can, it might help
for a headlamp)

-W
Nice input. I'm not an electronics expert, but I have seen a cheap cap fail once and it failed in fire. I'm gonna stay away from this solution when I get my LED headlights.
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:23 AM   #44
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Had to File a Claim to get a Response from them.

I'm just gonna Send it Back and get my Money Back.

They even openly Admitted on their Facebook Page that these DO WORK for the JW Lights but the Trucklites still have a Problem.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #45
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Bringing this back alive again, I live in Canada and have the New truck Lite LED headlights.
Now by law i must run the Day Time Running Lights, but i am trying to figure out how to fix the massive flickering i get when i am running these LED's on DTRL mode.

Right now i just run my headlights, but when wifey drives my Jeep she does not remember and it flickers like crazy.

My thought is the rule just says to have DTRL's not what lights will light up, anyone have any ideas on how to power up my stock driving lights in the front bumper?

Or if anyone knows of a fix for the DTRL, i would go that way in a heartbeat.

Thanks for any input, below are the lights in question.

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Old 03-17-2013, 01:23 PM   #46
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Buy a ProCal and change it. I fixed the flicker by making my own harness but then instead of flicker I had full-power hi-beams on my DRL. I bought a ProCal and changed the DRL to lo-beams, took all of 30 seconds.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #47
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I'm in Canada with trucklites, rally light harness and a procal. I have no flicker and use my signal lights as DRL. I love it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:56 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by JKUCRUSHMIKE View Post
I'm in Canada with trucklites, rally light harness and a procal. I have no flicker and use my signal lights as DRL. I love it.
So i have looked into the Rally Light Harness, i just emailed them actually.
It worked using that harness?
The one i have is just an adapter from the old lights to the new lights sold with the kit.

How much was the harness you got and do you know the part number ?
Just so i know which one to get as the have quite a few.

Thanks Guys ;-)
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:59 PM   #49
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Buy a ProCal and change it. I fixed the flicker by making my own harness but then instead of flicker I had full-power hi-beams on my DRL. I bought a ProCal and changed the DRL to lo-beams, took all of 30 seconds.
Just to look at all options where would i find the ProCal, and any parts number would be great.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:46 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by BCJKJeep View Post

So i have looked into the Rally Light Harness, i just emailed them actually.
It worked using that harness?
The one i have is just an adapter from the old lights to the new lights sold with the kit.

How much was the harness you got and do you know the part number ?
Just so i know which one to get as the have quite a few.

Thanks Guys ;-)
I emailed them once, it they wrote back with total cost about $160. I forgot to save the email since I was waiting for news from JW speaker harness. http://www.rallylights.com/.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:09 PM   #51
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I emailed them once, it they wrote back with total cost about $160. I forgot to save the email since I was waiting for news from JW speaker harness. Susquehanna MotorSports - High Performance Vehicle Lighting and Competition Accessories.
JW speaker told me it would be two weeks about three weeks ago. I'm waiting to see what they do before deciding what to do.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:30 PM   #52
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Ya after I have more intel, I will get the stuff mentioned above and let others know how it works.
With the stock lights being so pathetic I need to keep what I have kow and fix the DRL asap.

The new Truck Lites I have are such I great improvement I cannot go back to the stock ones.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #53
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I got the "New" Harness from them in the Mail the other Day.

Dunno why they sent it to me either?

The Plugs are of better Quality (Not just Bulbs with the Glass Broke Off and Wire Soldered to the Leads by a 2nd Grader like the last POS's I got from them), but it's still just 2 Caps in some Heat-Shrink that is so stiff you can't Bend it, so even IF I was going to Install them, I dunno how good it would work without something on the Harness Breaking from being too Stiff.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #54
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This harness shown here looks better than what i have seen pictured in this thread so far,

Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:38 AM   #55
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It still Baffles me at how much these Companies Charge for a Simple Relay Harness.

Something that Costs Less than $20 to make, and they Charge almost $175...and people ACTUALLY Buy it.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:51 AM   #56
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Ya i agree, but some of us (me sadly included) are scared to blow up their Jeeps
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:08 PM   #57
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It still Baffles me at how much these Companies Charge for a Simple Relay Harness.

Something that Costs Less than $20 to make, and they Charge almost $175...and people ACTUALLY Buy it.
With that much margin it's almost worth it to sit and make them while I watch the idiot box in the evenings....
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:30 PM   #58
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Ya i agree, but some of us (me sadly included) are scared to blow up their Jeeps
All you need to make sure you get right is Hooking Up the Relay.

That Info can be Found here: http://www.mp3car.com/imagehosting/1...9129233622.bmp

Everything else is Self Explanatory.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #59
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Okay i will take a look back and see if i can find the material needed, i see your picture and the parts is that all that is needed, i ordered the ProCal it looks like i can change my programming through that.

If you have a better break down or a shopping list of the parts that would help me alot.

Appreciate it guys.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:49 PM   #60
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When you install the harness, the DRL's will go from 'flickering' to being full-power brights. In Canada, Jeep programs our lights so that the DRL's are actually our brights at half-power. The harness will eliminate the flicker, but you'll need the Procal to reprogram the Jeep so you're not blinding everyone. Take all of this from someone who JUST went through this.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/diy...ss-226867.html

^ That thread might help you out in terms of building your own harness.

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