I took my 2012 JKU Sport into the shop for a couple of things. One big reason being that when I changed the oil I saw that the "Boot" on the Front Driveshaft immediately in front of the transfer case had a tear in it.
Coming down our snow covered hill in 4 wheel drive (two days after I saw the torn boot) I was using my breaks and when the anti-lock kicked in I heard the front driveshaft rattling... not good. So I mentioned both those things to the service manager when I dropped it off.
He called and said that the whole front driveshaft assembly would need to be replaced. He said that because of the tear in the boot the grease/lube had all leaked out, and so it had worn something loose... He wasn't sure exactly what it was that was specifically loose, only that the whole section needed replaced.
I've called my insurance, and I'll be paying out of pocket because they'd consider running over a branch a "collision" a I have a high collision deductible. AS far as I know it could've been a branch or something like that in the road. I don't know how I could've done it. I've taken it off road, but never "offroading". I don't remember ever hitting anything that would've caused the tear.
Estimate: ~$600 Parts. ~$100 Labor etc.
What would you all suggest? Is there a good way to get it rebuilt, or to replace it with something better? The Sales manager said that he couldn't find a cheaper aftermarket part for it.
What would you guys do?
And I don't really have any need for anything other then getting it back the same functional place that it was before this. As in, I'm not looking to put on 35's or regearing, or lockers or anything like that.
If you want to drive to southwest Michigan ill sell you my stock front ds for $100.
2013 JK - Metalcloak 3.5" coils and control arms, Bilstein 5160s, Prorock44, Synergy high steer, drag link, track bar and tie rod, PSC hydro assist, RCV front shafts, Reid knuckles, TEN factory rear shafts, 4.88s, 37" MTR, Tom Woods front and rear, antirock front and rear, etc.
I would think If not modified the boot failed, shojld be a warranty issue.
I wish... The guy at the shop says that because of how its torn it's not covered under warranty. And I can agree with him. It's torn/gouged in such a way that something hit it. kinda crazy cause I've not done anything that should've caused that.
So you're saying you run without the boot and you haven't had any problem with a loose driveshaft? Do you use 4 wheel drive much?
The slip joint boot (the long one kind of in the middle) has been ripped on JKs since '07. They either hit the skid and get torn or the clamp hits the automatic transmission bolt and turns and rips the boot (that's what happened to mine).
I you look at many of the aftermarket shafts you'll notice they don't even include a boot for the slip joint.
If you broke the boot on the end that covers the CV joint (smaller, round, flat) then you do have to replace the shaft.
Yeah, I wheel it all of the time. We got it to go wheeling, so it sits in the garage until we take it out.
2008 Rubicon, 2 Door, Flame Red, Auto, MyGIG, Power Group, Deep Tint
AEV Pintlers, BFG KM2s 35x12.50x17, Bulldog Fab Rear Stubby Bump, Currie F/R Adj Trac Bars, Daystar Upper Dash, FireStik FireFly Antenna, Kilby Rear Shock Skids, LoD Sig Stubby Front Bump, Midland 75-822 CB, Mopar Filler Door & Locking Gas Cap, Rancho LCA Skid, Rancho Oil Pan Armor, Riddler Diff Covers, TeraFlex 2.5" Spring Lift, Warn PowerPlant HD, Woods Evap Can Relo, Woods SS Relo, Yukon 5.38s