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Old 10-18-2009, 12:36 PM   #1
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traction control compering to lockers

Hi I am new in the forum and would like to know how good is the traction control in my sahara 2008 comparing to a true rear lock in a rock climbing and if its worth to buy arb air rear lockers ?

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Old 10-18-2009, 01:07 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum.

I have the Rubicon with the built in lockers. The only place where I have used them is on the trail and only for a few seconds each instance. While I was using them I was also finding out why the skid plates are necessary because as I was coming off of what was holding me up, I was dragging bottom on the skid plates. So, if your not planning on off roading too much, I would say not necessary. However, if you spend time off road and anticipate possibly needing them, then maybe it would be worth the investment.

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Old 10-18-2009, 01:17 PM   #3
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If you want to do some real offroading a 100% selectable locker is the best way to go.
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:22 PM   #4
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From 1 to 100 how much you would say that the traction control is really locking ?
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:27 PM   #5
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For light to medium offroading the traction control is ok IMO.
I donīt know how the traction control works in a 2008 JK. But in some other cars I drove before it was ok.

I say:
Go out wheeling with your JK and you will see if itīs enough for you.
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:48 PM   #6
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For snow and mix snow ice, loose gravel and mud, the traction control will work well. For off roading where you may get hung up underneath, having a selectable locker is nice. It is what will make the difference between having to have help to get out vs. selecting lock to get out. The trade-off is the price of course. Your Sahara is no slouch on the trail just be careful as you approach more extreme conditions.
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:51 PM   #7
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I agree with nicolas-eric on getting out on the trail and see what it is like. My advice would be not to do it alone. You may need your fellow 4 wheelers to get you out of a difficult spot. I was wheeling on a PUBLISHED ROAD in NH. Got stuck because of a 60 cent plastic bushing in the linkage breaking and the transfer case stuck in neutral. Created about 6 hours of inconvenience for me the result of not being with other wheelers.
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:57 PM   #8
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6 hours?
Why didnīt you grab undre ypour Jeep and shift it back to 4L directly at the TC?

Itīs always safer to go offroding together with other people and never alone.
For mud, sand and some easy trails on rocks the JK is ok.

I wouldnīt trust the stock underbody armor on big rocks.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
6 hours?
Why didnīt you grab undre ypour Jeep and shift it back to 4L directly at the TC?

Itīs always safer to go offroding together with other people and never alone.
For mud, sand and some easy trails on rocks the JK is ok.

I wouldnīt trust the stock underbody armor on big rocks.
It was a long story. I got stuck, called chrysler 24 hour assistance line, flat bed arrives 1 hour later laughs at me when he saw where I was stuck. Told me to have it towed out to a parking lot near by and then he would take it from there. I was in the middle of a huge wash out on a gravel road and really rough getting down into the gully where I was. Got it towed out by a 4wd truck and a tow strap then called the service and arranged to have it towed the next morning. After waiting 4 hours and two phone calls and still no tow truck, got my feathers in an uproar and went under the jeep, temporarily reconnected the linkage (couldn't move the lever on the transfer case to the point where it would shift) and managed to shift it from the inside. Then drove it to the dealer. During the night while the jeep was disabled, I posted on this forum and discovered why it lost its linkage and that is why I decided to get under it and see if I could get it into gear. Thanks to friends on this forum I feel I know my jeep a little better. I put three of those bushings in my glove box for the next time...next time...next time.. etc.
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:20 AM   #10
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As for the OP, there are three main types of "grip" in the automotive off-road world:
Tire grip
Mechanical grip
Electronic "grip"

Tire grip is absolutely the most crucial element. This is what is all comes down to. You can BS your way by with GOBS of mechanical and electronic grip, but if you have no tire under your rig, you're not gonna go far. It's as simple as this: use the right tire for the conditions, with proper inflation, and in good condition (not worn out). Period. This is why mudders run mud terrain tires, sand junkies run sand tires, etc. Tires=life.

Mechanical grip is the sum of the vehicle's mechanical components: suspension bits (also help tire grip by optimizing their contact patch), drive system (FWD, RWD, AWD, 4WD), transmission (part of why I only drive stick), etc. This is where lockers and diffs would come into play. Mechanical and electronic grip work WITH the tires' grip to form the end of the traction/grip equation. They help increase the tires' ability to do their job easily and smoothly. Selectable lockers (like ARB) provide off-road only (and deep snow, as necessary) grip, while LSD's offer anytime grip. Mechanical grip is essential, but secondary to tire grip.

Electronic "grip" is a bit of a tricky subject. It relies on the other two to work properly. Stability control, traction control, ABS, etc. need good tire grip to work, and at least some mechanical grip. Without them, all of the electrons in the world won't do jack. Electronic LSD (NOT the same as a mechanical LSD- this is an ABS sub-system that ACTS like an LSD, but is NOT the same), ESP, ABS, etc. all help work with what mechanical and tire grip they have to help keep your butt on the road. They're a safety net, but not a replacement for REAL grip.
Hope that helps a bit- that's the massively shortened version, but it's a start Mark W.
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:28 PM   #11
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I read in last months JK magazine about lockers and stock.

It said the Rubi dosnt lock in until a good 20 feet. So be sure to lock them before you need them.

You Rubi guys agree?
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Old 10-20-2009, 05:11 PM   #12
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When I got stuck (more than once) and put it in lock, it didn't delay and I was unstuck immediately.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:17 AM   #13
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If you're moving, maybe it takes a few feet for them to lock in some conditions, but I've never noticed when I wheel a Rubi. Now, they sometimes take time to DISENGAGE, but that's most selectables- Mark W.
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:14 PM   #14
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Well its kinda hard to get good info then. They also went on to say the ture lock limited slip isnt worth the price,,,,Its like $300?

And they say off road it act totally like an open diff. Also the clutches wear over time and need to be replaced... and once wornen they are like an open diff.

I guess this is more for heavy off roading,, what this JK magazine in based.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:40 AM   #15
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i agree. the electronic BLD or break lock differential works. i go many places locked jeep make it through and jeeps without BLD or lockers get stuck. lockers are better but your setup is no slouch. go Wheel and see what performance your looking for. i want to get an Aussie locker up front then i will be able to make more obstacles with out having to use too much speed and its about $340. if money is no option the get a selectable locker set up.

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Old 10-26-2009, 09:41 AM   #16
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Traction control works great for keeping you straight and on the road in slippery conditions. Which is really a nice feature on a Jeep with short wheelbase and part-time all wheel drive. It'll make those winter commutes and ski trips nicer.

It will also help with slippery down hill off-roading - it's designed to keep you pointed straight, so it'll subtly brake just the wheel that needs it.

It will not help as much as lockers with serious off road rock crawling - lockers will hold your wheels together regardless of speed, terrain, etc. -- they won't try to make guesses as to what it is you're trying to do, and they won't try to "help" by making one wheel brake.

ARB lockers are definitely "worth it" - but they are expensive and you may not need them for te type of wheeling you want to do. The best way to find out is to go out and get stuck a few times. If you get stuck when you're with buddies and when you have rescue stuff, then it's an adventure!
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:13 PM   #17
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The available LSD on these is very lightly-sprung and not very effective in more than easy mud, not-deep sand, and some snow.
I was humbled by my BLD's again on Saturday while wheeling in some VERY NASTY mud with a pair of 4-cylinder YJ's. Both locked at both ends, of course. The locked YJ with boggers went up and over the slimy hill; the locked YJ with DC muds needed a couple of stabs at the hill. I had to take the bypass; twice.

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