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Old 07-24-2011, 05:01 AM   #1
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Trading in 2011 Wrangler for the 2012 Wrangler

I knew I should have waited to get the 2012 wrangler.

Better gas milage and power and I can get the options I rather have.

Anybody have a 2011 wrangler and trading it in to a jeep dealership for the 2012 ?

If so how much are the giving you for your 2011 wrangler?

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Old 07-24-2011, 06:35 AM   #2
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i have a '10 and I'm gonna trade up.. Also wondering how bad they are gonna hit us on trade values. It has alreaday been established that you can get a '12 for at 2% under invoice, which is great if you have no trade. I am having the oil changed next week, and am going to see if I can get a trade-in value for my '10 Rubi.

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Old 07-24-2011, 07:10 AM   #3
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A few factors will go into that deal, not the least of which is how much do you owe on a relatively new Wrangler '10 or '11 model year? Unless you put a sizeable down payment down on the vehicle and or took out a relatively short loan, the average person at that stage of a vehicle's life owes more on the vehicle than it's actually worth--even considering the high resale value of the Wrangler family of vehicles.

Chances are the dealer will tell you sure, he'll take it in trade, he'll give you blue book for it and then whatever else is owed above that, he'll tack on to your new vehicle. Completely different story if you own your '10 or '11 model outright.

I'm not sure I'd recommend to a friend to do a trade that soon, it doesn't make good financial sense to me. You may have better luck attempting to sell outright or seeing if someone can assume the loan, which may not be feasible either as your vehicle is now "used" and will fall under different loan rates than a new vehicle would.
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:33 AM   #4
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^^Yep.

The principal difference for anyone trading in an almost new JK for a 2012 is going to be power. I suppose there's also "getting to choose your options," but realistically you can add almost anything to a jeep aftermarket.

Just spend $5k and get a supercharger for your current jeep. That'll have more power than a new one with the 3.6 anyway.
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:43 AM   #5
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Last weekend, my local dealership offered me $25,750 for my 2009 Rubicon Unlimited with only 11,600 miles, hard top, 6 disk changer, and tow package. Needless to say, I was pretty disappointed in the offer. I walked away.

Yesterday, I decided to try another dealership. At first, they offered $24,500. I shocked that in one week's time, another dealership offered me over $1200 less! They came up to $26,500, however, I walked from that offer, too. I was looking to be at $28k. KBB has dealer trade-in at nearly $30k excellent condition, and over $28k good condition, but I don't think they give a rats arse about KBB...

What's interesting is that both dealers used Autotrader's online appraisal system. I found it hard to believe that Autotrader thinks the value has dropped over $1200 in one week!

Anyhow, long story short, give Autotrader's online appraisal system a whirl. Doesn't cost a dime, and you'll receive a number in less than 5 minutes. That number should serve as a good baseline.

Hope this helps...
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:08 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by MTH View Post
^^Yep.

The principal difference for anyone trading in an almost new JK for a 2012 is going to be power. I suppose there's also "getting to choose your options," but realistically you can add almost anything to a jeep aftermarket.

Just spend $5k and get a supercharger for your current jeep. That'll have more power than a new one with the 3.6 anyway.

I'm going to check the 2012's out. I own my 2010 rubi auto outright and pamper it. I think the supercharger is a good option, but was wondering if the 5 speed automatic makes that big of difference also. I'm reasonably close to Ripp i should check to see if they have something similar to mine to test drive. I only have 12k on mine and I love the color. Someone must be able to get more than 202 hp out of a 3.8 without the supercharger?
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:36 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by deepbluerubi

I'm going to check the 2012's out. I own my 2010 rubi auto outright and pamper it. I think the supercharger is a good option, but was wondering if the 5 speed automatic makes that big of difference also. I'm reasonably close to Ripp i should check to see if they have something similar to mine to test drive. I only have 12k on mine and I love the color. Someone must be able to get more than 202 hp out of a 3.8 without the supercharger?
Ask RIPP. I recall them saying somewhere that their dynos indicate that the combo of intake, long flow headers, and exhaust can net 30 horses or so. My recollection is the headers were the key to the puzzle, and incidentally the most expensive one as well. I'd think $1500 for the air stuff along with another $1200 or so to regear to 4.56s would yield a pretty darn different driving experience.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:50 AM   #8
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Here we go again--

If you have a Rubi/auto--there's no gears in the 4.56/4.88 range that will do anything except WASTE MONEY--

With HD Dana 44s the gear change HAS to be 5.13or 5.38 that will increase APPLID HP by 25 to 35 HP--

Then any change to tires size (below 37") will result in a completely different jeep (BETTER) including better gas mileage and performance, not even counting off-road-or towing-and there's ALMOST no warranty/computer infringement !!

Don't you guys read anything !!

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Old 07-24-2011, 09:54 AM   #9
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With the recent change to the Pentastar engine, and 5 speed AT for those interested in an AT, the value of late model used Wranglers took a bigger hit than they normally would at the end of a model year. I think a private sale would be the best thing to do, live with what you have, modify what you have, or bite the bullet and take the hit if you can afford it. Ouch!

When I was selling cars many times people would come in with trades, and quote KBB. The used car manager putting a number on the trade told many customers to sell it to Mr. Kelly for the KBB price. KBB really doesn't mean a whole lot to many dealerships, as they are guidlines and nothing more.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:55 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by JIMBOX
Here we go again--

If you have a Rubi/auto--there's no gears in the 4.56/4.88 range that will do anything except WASTE MONEY--

With HD Dana 44s the gear change HAS to be 5.13or 5.38 that will increase APPLID HP by 25 to 35 HP--

Then any change to tires size (below 37") will result in a completely different jeep (BETTER) including better gas mileage and performance, not even counting off-road-or towing-and there's ALMOST no warranty/computer infringement !!

Don't you guys read anything !!

JIMBO
Yep yep yep--I missed that you had an auto. Jimbo's right.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:27 AM   #11
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Thanx counslor-you usually have TOTAL RECALL memory too-


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Yep yep yep--I missed that you had an auto. Jimbo's right.

This JK forum has a BUNCH of regearing threads in the past 6-months, with testimony's from other regear proponents other than me--

A good idea is just google JKU Rubi auto regear 5.13/5.38--many opinions !

Keepyerpowderdry

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Old 07-24-2011, 12:43 PM   #12
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My advice would be waiting till some bought a 2012 and traded it with low miles then u can buy it with losing $5k by buying off the line. I bought my wife's 10' Sahara with 7k and it was 8k less than a new one.

I have a 07 Rubicon and I did some engine mods for more power so heres what I done.
First I got a programer "Superchips", E3sparks,OReilys high performance wires,Banks Air Ram,Gibson Ceramic headers, straight flow Cherry Bomb comp muffler,Yukon 5:38 gears.
These mods made my 3.8 come alive now I can smoke my 35's
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:17 PM   #13
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My advice would be waiting till some bought a 2012 and traded it with low miles then u can buy it with losing $5k by buying off the line. I bought my wife's 10' Sahara with 7k and it was 8k less than a new one.

I have a 07 Rubicon and I did some engine mods for more power so heres what I done.
First I got a programer "Superchips", E3sparks,OReilys high performance wires,Banks Air Ram,Gibson Ceramic headers, straight flow Cherry Bomb comp muffler,Yukon 5:38 gears.
These mods made my 3.8 come alive now I can smoke my 35's
^^^^
good advise...
there will always be one somewhere!!! or just mod yours and make it your own... / my 2011 was my first jeep.. I love it, and cannot believe how much you can change them... all you need is money
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:37 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by roxbury29

^^^^
good advise...
there will always be one somewhere!!! or just mod yours and make it your own... / my 2011 was my first jeep.. I love it, and cannot believe how much you can change them... all you need is money
You are absolutely right $$ lol. Heres some cheap power mods E3 sparks and Get ORielys auto parts premium wires $60. Trim your muffler back half way under your Jeep and install $30 Cherry Bomb Inline muffler it's "round" and put down facing tip. Look for a Banks Ram
Air pull off you can get one for around $150. Other jeeps take them off to pull a snorkel on so just be on a look out. Btw I picked Banks cuz I don't get water and hot air in it well unless u go drive in a river lol. Also your manafloid will eventually will crack in two then replace them with Gibson Ceramic Headers there the best for your money btw if you ever get those header make sure you go to a hardware store and pick up some locking washers this will keep you from losing your bolts that cinch up your headers to your exhaust. If you get a programer get one that does every thing incuding that it does an diagnostic test. That will save you alot a money in the future and time trying figure what wrong with your jeep
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:43 PM   #15
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Hears a pic of the headers. Notice I trimmed the corner of it, do this cuz your steering rod will hang up on this.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:45 PM   #16
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Here's my Banks Ram Air notice that how it's made from other bands that only get water and suck hot air.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:48 PM   #17
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OReilys wires there are much lager than the stock ones ,on the wire holders the top holder will not fit due to the lager wires.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:51 PM   #18
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Cherry bomb muffler strait flow now you have extra space unsure the rear where the stock muffler once was, you utilize this space by installing a air tank under there.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:21 AM   #19
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A few factors will go into that deal, not the least of which is how much do you owe on a relatively new Wrangler '10 or '11 model year? Unless you put a sizeable down payment down on the vehicle and or took out a relatively short loan, the average person at that stage of a vehicle's life owes more on the vehicle than it's actually worth--even considering the high resale value of the Wrangler family of vehicles...d.
Whether you finance or pay cash, the math is the same. Prepare for a terrible beating -- something on the order of 25% to 35% of what you paid for Jeep is gone, and it might well be more.

If you buy the first vehicle at invoice and go to trade it in six months later, you can expect an average loss of over 20% of the vehicle value, give or take, and that's assuming the sales on the new model aren't sluggish enough to generate big factory rebates, because they kill trade-in value. I've seen auction prices on beautiful 6,000 to 10,000 mile Tahoes and Suburbans at over 35% below original invoice.

You're proposing to trade a vehicle you've already taken a beating on, and then sign up for another beating on the new one. Ouch! If you bought a stripper the first time, and you're planning on buying a loaded Rubicon on the swap, it might come slightly closer to penciling out, but you can buy a LOT of mods/options/goodies for the "old" Jeep for real net cost difference on the swap.

Having said all that, if you're wealthy enough so losing ten grand isn't a big deal, we'll all celebrate you getting what you want. I did just what you propose on a motorcycle swap a few years ago. I bought an R1200GS and then traded up to an R1200GS-A the following year when I realized that I wanted a bunch of options that were ridiculously expensive to buy separately. I reduced the pain slightly by retailing the first bike, but I still ended up with a heck of a spanking. I love the bike I bought, but I sure wish I still had the extra $6,000 I pissed away. I could use it to put a supercharger on the Rubicon today!
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:02 AM   #20
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I have had my truck for 3 years now... but my dealer refuses to look at it until the Jeep is on the lot.... I'm sure he has plans on trying to pay all of his overhead this month on me biting at the deal... Unless he gets hits my payoff he isn't getting this sale....
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:16 AM   #21
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What I noticed when we were shopping for our JK was that there seems to be a huge depreciation hit the first year to 18 months, then it levels out for several years. Actually back to the redesign in '07. Our plan is to pay off this Jeep and then trade it in as soon as the powertrain warranty expires. That should net us a new Jeep every 5 years that costs us about $10-12,000. The trick seems to be getting a vehicle paid off before it's worth nothing and then trading it in. There aren't many vehicles out there that are still worth something when the loan is paid off, but the Wrangler is one of them.
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:31 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by silverjeep1 View Post
I knew I should have waited to get the 2012 wrangler.

Better gas milage and power and I can get the options I rather have.

Anybody have a 2011 wrangler and trading it in to a jeep dealership for the 2012 ?

If so how much are the giving you for your 2011 wrangler?
I've done that. I traded an 03 Sahara for an 04 Rubicon. I know how you feel,go ahead get it done,just don't make a habit out of those kind of transactions.

"ah to be young again"

Everybody should drive what they really want ,if possible.


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Old 07-25-2011, 11:41 AM   #23
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You're proposing to trade a vehicle you've already taken a beating on, and then sign up for another beating on the new one. Ouch!
+1

By the way, the R1200GSA is an awesome bike. Can't blame you for wanting to trade up to it, but I hear you about taking a financial beating. And welcome to the forum!
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:41 AM   #24
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everybody should drive what they really want ,if possible.

^^this!!!^^
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:46 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by silverjeep1 View Post
I knew I should have waited to get the 2012 wrangler.

Better gas milage and power and I can get the options I rather have.

Anybody have a 2011 wrangler and trading it in to a jeep dealership for the 2012 ?

If so how much are the giving you for your 2011 wrangler?
Just my $.02, but "better gas mileage" shouldn't be a factor in the decision. You are going to end up spending at least several thousand dollars on the transaction, so it will take you 10 years of driving to make that money back.
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:00 PM   #26
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Just my $.02, but "better gas mileage" shouldn't be a factor in the decision. You are going to end up spending at least several thousand dollars on the transaction, so it will take you 10 years of driving to make that money back.

Exactly. Not only that, the new 3.6L numbers sound good but at normal driving speeds, they only produce 4-5 more horsepower and the maybe 2-3 mpg increase will take years to get back form the money lost. There is no way, I would trade in a 2010 or 11 for the 2012 just for the new engine. The cost effectiveness just isn't there. Regearing and superchips can get you more for less. Besides the new 6 speed auto and design changes are coming in either 2013 or 14. Seems like a better time for a trade for a 2010-11 models and time for any bugs to be worked out.
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:36 PM   #27
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Exactly. Not only that, the new 3.6L numbers sound good but at normal driving speeds, they only produce 4-5 more horsepower and the maybe 2-3 mpg increase will take years to get back form the money lost. There is no way, I would trade in a 2010 or 11 for the 2012 just for the new engine. The cost effectiveness just isn't there. Regearing and superchips can get you more for less. Besides the new 6 speed auto and design changes are coming in either 2013 or 14. Seems like a better time for a trade for a 2010-11 models and time for any bugs to be worked out.
Agreed
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:47 PM   #28
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If you really want the new Wrangler, I would wait couple of months until they are on the lots (it is difficult to negotiate when the vehicle is not even out yet). Also, I would deal with the dealer who gives me the most amount for my trade and if you are not that happy with what they offer you, go lower on the price for the 2012 Wrangler (they really can go below invoice without even TL discounts - I was able to have my dealer go $500 below invoice without any TL discounts but remember that you are in stronger position if you wait a little bit and who knows maybe once the 2012 Wrangler is out, you will test drive it and you might realize that the difference between yours and the new one is not worth the extra money. Again, the decision is yours and 'god bless credit'
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:17 PM   #29
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If you must, do it now. 5 or 10 years from now, it would be a no brainer decision... NO WAY! Oh!!! if I had every dollar I wasted on similar choices when I was younger!
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:36 PM   #30
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I just did it myself...completely decked out 2011 4 door rubicon for a 2012 one configured identically. I still have the 2011, working on selling it but I have a guarantee from the dealer to give me $29k for it if I don't sell it in x amount of time.

I know I definitely took a bit of a beating, but honestly I think it was worth it. I no longer have to fight to get it up to and keep it at 70 mph, in fact I've found I have to watch my speed now as it effortlessly goes 80+ mph...additionally on steep hills its no longer absolutely required to drop a gear to get up the hill, it just goes.

I paid $37k for the 2011 and a little over $39k for the 2012, got a better deal on the 2011 than I did the 2012 but both were under invoice. I put the same down on the 2012 as I will get back on the 2011 (I will get at least that much, possibly more if I can sell it for more than the dealers $29k offer) and my payment went up about $60/month.

Maybe my math abilities suck, but I'm thinking I'm paying $60/month more to have something with a LOT more power (really nothing out of pocket since I'm getting my down payment back when my 2011 sells)...also, knowing the 2011 was gutless I was planning on doing a HEMI conversion down the road, now I no longer see a need to do that...money saved then (HEMI conversion for $15k vs an additional $60/month for a few years totaling a couple grand?)...

Of course I could also be trying to reassure myself that what I just did was not a horrible decision

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