Tried to get oil change, dealer said no - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 08-19-2012, 04:29 PM   #61
Jeeper
 
-JC-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wenatchee WA
Posts: 319
I love oil threads. They're almost as much fun as religion.........OH Wait, they ARE religion

So clear something up for me.........engines that now come with sythetic oil from the factory are designed differently from engines that come with dino, such that the dino engines require dino to break in properly, and the synth engines require synth, and there is some magic time peiod where you can switch from one to the other? And just when? is that time period, and is it different depending on which direction you are going?

__________________
'12 JKR
Metalcloak Duroflex 3.5"
OME shocks
35X12.5X17 BFG KM2 on Blackrock Vipers
Hardrock Front and rear full width bumper w tire carrier
M8000s winch
-JC- is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 04:53 PM   #62
Jeeper
 
Rubicondon53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: pennsylvania
Posts: 1,588
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackforestgreen

careful, you are showing your age. New metals and tighter tolarences have change this. You can add syn in the first 10 miles if you choose to. No ill effects.
lol

__________________
04' Rubi, with all the gizmos we need for long range excursions, / home modified excursion trailer;

96' Lexus 450, locked, loaded and ready to roll..
'12 VW New Beetle
Rubicondon53 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #63
Newb
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: broadway va
Posts: 12
just changed oil in my 2012 jku at 1200 miles. i figure 30 dollar oil change cheap insurance.there is something that i didnt see mentioned.moisture in oil from short trips,sitting with temp change,or condinsation.some of my vehicles i change twice a year weather 1000 or 5000 miles.was always told to keep the moisture out.
__________________
2012jeep wrangler unlimited rubi 2004 pontiac gto
nosam is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 06:43 PM   #64
kik
Jeeper
 
kik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,718
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosam View Post
just changed oil in my 2012 jku at 1200 miles. i figure 30 dollar oil change cheap insurance.there is something that i didnt see mentioned.moisture in oil from short trips,sitting with temp change,or condinsation.some of my vehicles i change twice a year weather 1000 or 5000 miles.was always told to keep the moisture out.
Probably because it's in the manual. Chrysler indicates at least twice per year, not based upon mileage.
kik is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 06:56 PM   #65
Newb
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: broadway va
Posts: 12
no i didnt get that from my manual been doing 6 month oil changes in my vehicles last 25 years .
__________________
2012jeep wrangler unlimited rubi 2004 pontiac gto
nosam is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 07:01 PM   #66
Jeeper
 
krawdaddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Roscoe, GA
Posts: 368
I just follow the manual.

  • Wife's 01 Mustang GT.. every 5k. It has 143k miles and is our DD (62 miles round trip). No major problems, all changes at the dealer
  • My 06 Yukon, follow the DIC. Sometimes it's 7k, sometimes it's close to 10k. I went 12k once. First change was at 2500 (3 weeks after purchased, mostly towing!) It now has 135k and is used for runs between ATL and NOLA regularly (just got back, 1700 miles). No major engine problems... don't get me started on the POS transmission. All changes at the dealer
  • When I had my 02 TJ, I changed it myself. Whatever the manual said is what I did. I had about 45k on it when I sold it. Rear main seal leaked
When I get my 13 JK, I'll probably do a 3000 mile initial change and follow the computer after that.


I used to do my own changes, but it's not worth the time or effort anymore. I just take my iPad and watch a movie while I'm waiting
krawdaddy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 08:19 PM   #67
Jeeper
 
DJL2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The center of the universe, NC
Posts: 860
Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC- View Post
I love oil threads. They're almost as much fun as religion.........OH Wait, they ARE religion

So clear something up for me.........engines that now come with sythetic oil from the factory are designed differently from engines that come with dino, such that the dino engines require dino to break in properly, and the synth engines require synth, and there is some magic time peiod where you can switch from one to the other? And just when? is that time period, and is it different depending on which direction you are going?
Generally, engines are not designed for a specific oil...regardless of what the folks asking for your money tell you. Engines are designed for a specific oil viscosity, oil pressure, oil flow rate, lubricity/adhesion/cohesion. Engines might even be designed for a certain additive set, detergents, etc. If you choose an oil that falls within the acceptable performance range for the engine it doesn't matter even one tiny bit whose name is on the bottle and what is on the label.

Key differences between mutli weight/grade oils in both "dino" and synthetic varieties has to do with which grade is used as the base oil and what the additive package looks like. Additives can also be a key differences between brands and a good reason that a certain brand might be preferably to another. The trick is that the manufacturer is not going to publish the spec sheet for the engine with full details on the oil parameters.

I always enjoyed the Castol commercials growing up...you know the ones - you watch the crank/bearing run hot until the oil breaks down and the engine seizes during high temperature operation. (They still like to publicize fun tests)

Engines are pretty impressive if you think about it - for an engine that does 200,000 miles if you assumed that average vehicle speed was 40 mph that's 5000 hours (300,000 minutes) of operation. Even if you averaged only 2500 rpm for your engine speed, that's 750 Million revolutions. How many things can you think of that survive that many load/stress cycles?

I'll not say that an engine that leaves the factory is perfect. I will say that the starting quality of the engine has a lot to do with how long it will last. Folks like BMW and Mercedes will endurance test their engines and oil with continuous operation at 155 mph - they do this because they know that a properly designed and produced engine will not have its parts knocking into one another for any significant part of its life or operating cycle and that running it at high speed, high temperature will expose such a flaw in either design or production.

The reason I point that out is that if you have the sort of engine that, because of design or production, needs to wear its parts together over time there's only so much you can do for it. The sort of stress an engine experiences over its desired 750 million cycle life can only be mitigated so much by simply changing the oil (or driving habits for that matter). At some point, a good engine is a good engine and a bad engine is a bad engine.
DJL2 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 08:36 PM   #68
Jeeper
 
JMC03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 163
IMO your dealer sucks if you get free lifetime oil changes and they told you no. I took mine in at 1000, 4000, 7000. I went for a road trip put 2100 miles on it in a week went to get a part replaced that they dinged up fixing the power doors and they changed it again at 9100 miles even though I didn't ask them, service guy thought I did.They post 5000 miles every time I go in and I change it every 3K.

Had a Cherokee with a straight six, I beat the snot out of it and traded it in at 160K still running good. So I swear by changing it every 3K. I also only put on about 9-10K a year baring long road trips, good amount of stop and go driving with a short drive to work.
JMC03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 09:45 PM   #69
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 46
I posted this on another thread about reguar / synthetic oil - thought it could be useful here too.. copying and pasting:

A month or so ago on Adam Carolla's podcast (good weekly listen) - Lake Speed Jr was on - he's an oil specialist, He is also the general manager and head of technical support at Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil. He gives lots of good information on oil and synthetic Vs. the dinosaur juice.

Follow this link or just look for it on iTunes...

Synthetic Oil with Lake Speed, Jr. & Audi R8 | Adam Carolla's CarCast
CTJeep623 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-19-2012, 09:50 PM   #70
Jeeper
 
-JC-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wenatchee WA
Posts: 319
My question apppears to be difficult to answer.
__________________
'12 JKR
Metalcloak Duroflex 3.5"
OME shocks
35X12.5X17 BFG KM2 on Blackrock Vipers
Hardrock Front and rear full width bumper w tire carrier
M8000s winch
-JC- is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 08:26 AM   #71
Jeeper
 
TJeepman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 676
Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC- View Post
My question apppears to be difficult to answer.
I think the answer is in the above link. Very interesting. I need to listen to it again.
Some other info from that link:
- oil is 85% base oil and 15% additives
- basically 3 companies making synthetic base oil
- basically 4 companies making the additive packages
- break-in oil, from years back, had extra zinc to condition the engine

Since an engine gets conditioned to the oil being used, say conventional oil, you might want to run a new oil, say PAO synthetic, a 1000 miles and then change it, to help remove the left overs from the previous oil. Sort of like a flush, like I said, I need to listen to it again. I wish they had discussed "high mileage" oils, aren't they basically "additional additives" oil?

Question on an exam this oil expert, Lake Speed, had to answer:
Q: When is it appropriate to add aftermarket additives to the crankcase oil?
A: Never
Now, isn't that interesting?
__________________
2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 251,430 kms
2002 and 2007 Grand Caravans - Sport & SXT
TJeepman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 09:07 AM   #72
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
SilverSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 21,191
Send a message via Yahoo to SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC- View Post
My question apppears to be difficult to answer.
Not difficult but false. Engines aren't designed to run on just conventional oil or just synthetic. There is no required break-in period to run synthetic oil either. Synthetic oil is conventional oil that has been engineered so the molecules are uniform in size and then the typical additives added, just like regular conventional oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TJeepman View Post
I think the answer is in the above link. Very interesting. I need to listen to it again.
Some other info from that link:
- oil is 85% base oil and 15% additives
- basically 3 companies making synthetic base oil
- basically 4 companies making the additive packages
- break-in oil, from years back, had extra zinc to condition the engine

Since an engine gets conditioned to the oil being used, say conventional oil, you might want to run a new oil, say PAO synthetic, a 1000 miles and then change it, to help remove the left overs from the previous oil. Sort of like a flush, like I said, I need to listen to it again. I wish they had discussed "high mileage" oils, aren't they basically "additional additives" oil?

Question on an exam this oil expert, Lake Speed, had to answer:
Q: When is it appropriate to add aftermarket additives to the crankcase oil?
A: Never
Now, isn't that interesting?
High zinc content is great for engine break-in, especially the rings and valvetrain. The drawback is if zinc gets past the rings and into the exhaust it is bad for the catalytic converter. Thats why oil companies stopped adding extra zinc.

I would agree with Lake Speed's answer. Oil already has anti wear, anti foam, anti-corrosion additives in it. No need to add any aftermarket stuff.
__________________
"Own a Jeep and own a piece of history."

"The Hunter is not concerned with the opinion of the Wolf."
SilverSport is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 09:18 AM   #73
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 195
Quote:
Originally Posted by needforspeed150 View Post
Well the reason I change oil early in a new engine is all the various parts are breaking in and metal shavings, all the metal from the honing of cylinders, and everything else that is finding its best clearances is shedding metal into the oil. In my case it is at 500-1000 then usually 3000 after that unless it has a turbo
Well Grandpa,
Engine manufacturing has changed a lot from the Model T era and shavings aren't left in the engine.

Perhaps you should send out a 500 mile sample to a lab for analysis and see the data that comes back.
davefr is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 09:26 AM   #74
Jeeper
 
Lowerumble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMC03 View Post
IMO your dealer sucks if you get free lifetime oil changes and they told you no. I took mine in at 1000, 4000, 7000. I went for a road trip put 2100 miles on it in a week went to get a part replaced that they dinged up fixing the power doors and they changed it again at 9100 miles even though I didn't ask them, service guy thought I did.They post 5000 miles every time I go in and I change it every 3K.

I think most would agree that 4 oil changes in the first 9100 miles, regardless of synthetic or natural was a waste. There was a post above that made a pretty good argument that unnecessary oil changes could even be detrimental. So being able to take advantage might not even be in your best interest....
Lowerumble is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 09:40 AM   #75
..shall not be infringed!

WF Supporting Member
 
Up Hill Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Up the hill, CA Northcoast
Posts: 4,444
Quote:
Originally Posted by davefr View Post
Well Grandpa,
Engine manufacturing has changed a lot from the Model T era and shavings aren't left in the engine. ....
Actually, the Pentastar, partly because blocks and heads are manufactured without freeze plugs, has a history of problems, including a recall, because of metal shavings left in the engine from the milling process.

Members who have done early changes have found lots of metal shavings in the filter. There have been pictures posted on WF showing the metal in the folds of the filters.

But then, you're probably just a young whipper-snapper who shoots of his mouth without knowing what he's talking about... just sayin'
__________________
2012 JKU Rubicon
Sahara Tan
Auto
3.73


Up Hill Bill
Up Hill Bill is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 09:54 AM   #76
Jeeper
 
enjerhoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Top of the Hill
Posts: 909
Anybody recall ever changing a canister type filter? How about an oil bath in the air filter? Haven't seen those in a while. Been a long time since I pulled off a used oil filter without oil running down the side of the filter. Love the 3.6 filter location. Almost too easy.

Screw the waste idea. And early changing causing damage? LMAO. Sure. OK.

At $25-$40 per change, do you really want to risk your new 35K jeep. You probably do not need to check your tires every week either but you will feel like a moron if you get a flat from a slow leak in the valve stem (yeah yeah TPMS I know, just making the analogy).
__________________
__________________________________________________
Black Forest Green 2012 JKU Sahara, Tinted Windows, Chromed Door Handles, Star Fab Door Stops, Brake controller, Poly Filled Speakers, Black Hole Mod, DIY Grill Inserts, Blinker Mod, Aries Front Bumper, Spyder Rear Bumper, 2" Rancho Lift, Quick Disconnects, 10K Warn Winch, Helix Air Compressor 315/70/17 Duratracs on 17x8.5 Warlords, IL-PU36, X-treme 9008 bulbs & PIAA's
enjerhoo is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 10:45 AM   #77
CG3
no retreat, no surrender

WF Supporting Member
 
CG3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Utah/Mexico/California
Posts: 975
Re: Oil filters removing all things unwanted.
I call wrong on that.
And to back that up, listen to Lake Speed on the above linked interview. IF the particle is the size the filter is designed to filter, you are good to go. If the particles (dirt, metal, whatever) is smaller, it goes right through... if larger, it doesn't go...
And yes.... X2 Up Hill Bill.......
__________________
Carolyn
CG3 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 10:46 AM   #78
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Port Jervis, N.Y.
Posts: 46
I would guess the "free dealer" oil changes are for "scheduled changes". Your owners manual will tell you every 8000 miles.(or 6 mths) I was going to change mine at 3000 and was told to read my owners manual....sure enough. Legally they wouldnt have to do it "free" until the 8000 mile mark or 6 mths....CRAZY !
59 jeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #79
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackforestgreen View Post
careful, you are showing your age. new metals and tighter tolarences have change this. you can add syn in the first 10 miles if you choose to. no ill effects.
+1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC- View Post
So clear something up for me.........engines that now come with sythetic oil from the factory are designed differently from engines that come with dino, such that the dino engines require dino to break in properly, and the synth engines require synth, and there is some magic time peiod where you can switch from one to the other? And just when? is that time period, and is it different depending on which direction you are going?
Engines are not designed for synthetic or conventional, they are designed to a spec. As long as the oil meets the spec you are good to go. From 98-02 the Corvette and Camaro/Firebird came with the same engine. The Vette got synthetic at the factory and the f-body got conventional. I'm sure there are plenty of other examples of this out there.
__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 11:21 AM   #80
Jeeper
 
JMC03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowerumble View Post
I think most would agree that 4 oil changes in the first 9100 miles, regardless of synthetic or natural was a waste. There was a post above that made a pretty good argument that unnecessary oil changes could even be detrimental. So being able to take advantage might not even be in your best interest....
The last one I didnt ask for, I was planning on going in around 11K seeing a lot of the miles I put on where highway, the dealer messed up kind of and did it.. My point was the difference between dealerships.
JMC03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 11:29 AM   #81
Jeeper
 
Jeeperz Creeperz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 897
Bluehen posted on the ticking pentastar thread an independent oil analysis at 4,000 miles on his Wrangler. It is clear that 4,000 on his was just fine for the 1st oil change. Blackstone analysis said the average tested was 3,900 miles.

Post number 1970, in case the link doesn't work and the report doesn't upload

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/upd...ml#post2683873

In case you can't see the small print:

Wear looks good in the first sample from your Wrangler. All metals read in the average range and we think the engine is doing very well. Universal averages for Chrysler’s 3.6 V6 are based on an oil run of 3,900 miles. The fact that you ran your oil longer and still got average wear means your engine is wearing better than most. If you want to try 5,000-6,000 miles next time, it should not be a problem. The oil was in good shape physically, containing no moisture, fuel, or coolant. Insolubles were low at 0.2% showing good oil filtration.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bluehen.blackstone.oil.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	226.7 KB
ID:	152043  
Jeeperz Creeperz is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 11:29 AM   #82
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
Actually, the Pentastar, partly because blocks and heads are manufactured without freeze plugs, has a history of problems, including a recall, because of metal shavings left in the engine from the milling process.

Members who have done early changes have found lots of metal shavings in the filter. There have been pictures posted on WF showing the metal in the folds of the filters.

But then, you're probably just a young whipper-snapper who shoots of his mouth without knowing what he's talking about... just sayin'
+1 on all counts. We found metal shavings in our filter the first three oil changes. On the first change they were from the machining process. The other two appeared to just be wear metals.
__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 03:32 PM   #83
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
SilverSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 21,191
Send a message via Yahoo to SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by oilwell1415 View Post
+1 on all counts. We found metal shavings in our filter the first three oil changes. On the first change they were from the machining process. The other two appeared to just be wear metals.
+2
__________________
"Own a Jeep and own a piece of history."

"The Hunter is not concerned with the opinion of the Wolf."
SilverSport is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 03:44 PM   #84
Jeeper
 
-JC-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wenatchee WA
Posts: 319
I've been curious, where does the notion come from that a particular oil affects an engine breaking in? Is there a paper that discusses this? I've always been told that the driving style affects the breakin........varying speeds, slow and fast accellerations, stop and go, continuous speeds etc. Only since the introduction of synth have I been hearing about oil having any effect on this process.
__________________
'12 JKR
Metalcloak Duroflex 3.5"
OME shocks
35X12.5X17 BFG KM2 on Blackrock Vipers
Hardrock Front and rear full width bumper w tire carrier
M8000s winch
-JC- is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 03:55 PM   #85
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC- View Post
I've been curious, where does the notion come from that a particular oil affects an engine breaking in? Is there a paper that discusses this? I've always been told that the driving style affects the breakin........varying speeds, slow and fast accellerations, stop and go, continuous speeds etc. Only since the introduction of synth have I been hearing about oil having any effect on this process.
Way back in the ages of the dinosaurs when we had flat tappet cams you needed special oil for to make sure they cam and lifters didn't eat each other during the initial break in. At that point we still had not put much effort into metallurgy, manufacturing techniques and the machine work that makes engines all pretty much identical these days. Until we moved beyond any of the traditional domestic engines I think you could make a strong case for the use of a break in oil. It isn't necessary on modern equipment.
__________________
2012 Silver Sport S, Silver, 6 speed, soft top, 3.73s, LSD, PCG, Infiniti, deep tint windows, Pro Comp 1028 wheels, 33" Duratracs, Smittybilt bumpers and steps, KC fog lights, Mopar slush mats and fuel door.

Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
oilwell1415 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 04:19 PM   #86
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 715
oil change

hi, i did my first oil change @ 1000 miles FFREE, next change will be @
3000 miles but i am not at that point., i don't drive much, but my jeep is
the best , i also get many coupons for oil changes for $19.95 from my local
dealer...
firehawk is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 05:00 PM   #87
Jeeper
 
mackdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tropical Nova Scotia
Posts: 30,513
The bottom line is as long as you change your oil at scheduled times or when the indicator tells you to you will be fine. If you change it more frequently than others you're not going to hurt anything by doing that. I talked to a mechanic at an engine rebuild shop and they always recommend changing the oil after 500 Kilometres. Not sure what that is in miles.
__________________


-----Donnie---


Do not argue with and idiot......he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience!
mackdj1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 05:16 PM   #88
Jeeper
 
GonzoBobH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,445
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicondon53 View Post
Unless your engine came from the factory with synthetic oil, you should wait for your engine to " break in " before switching to synthetic. ...And yes,,,, I have always changed oil in a new motor at the 1,000 mile mark.
x2

Some want to change early, to remove metal particles -- and this is something I did as well.

I am waiting before moving to synthetics for the reasons cited above.
__________________
Never owned a Jeep before - 'til now!
2012 Wrangler Unlimited Sport; Gecko green, half doors;
255/80/17 Pizza Cutters; 2.5" Teraflex BB with JKS Quicker Discos
Rigid Dually spots

GonzoBobH is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 06:09 PM   #89
Jeeper
 
Jeeperz Creeperz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 897
I am curious. Has anyone heard of anyone having motor failure for infrequent oil changes? I am not talking about an oil leak or never changing the oil. There are mechanics on this list. Have you?

My ex wife's brother was a shade tree mechanic. He would go 20,000 to 30,000 between oil changes. The oil was the cheapest he could find on sale. He would top the oil off every so often. He usually purchased cars with 80,000 or more on them and then put on another 150,000 with no engine oil related problems. This is anecdotal, I know but so are the "I changed it every 2,000 miles and never had a problem" stories. Would the results have been different if that person did the oil changes at 5,000 miles?

Those Castrol Oil TV commercials did their job...LOL! People changing oil at 1000 miles or less is proof. Unless of course you are racing or doing severe off roading.

The guy I copied the post from (see a few back) actually had his oil tested at 4,000 miles (first time) and guess what, it was fine. Was he just lucky?

The folks that built & tested our engines say under normal conditions, do not let it go past 6 months or 8,000 miles. There is no recommendation to do it earlier for break in purposes. Do you not trust them? If so why do you follow the rest of the owner manual recommendations?

Do you change your transmission, differential, radiator or brake fluid sooner and more often than recommended? Why not? They are just as vital. I bet most don't check these fluids at all even at higher miles.

Do what you want it is your money. I used to belive in the 3,000 mile oil change myth until I started changing it myself and realized the oil I was taking out looked nearly as good as what I was putting in.

Now a days there is an on board computer measuring driving conditions to back up my "unscientific dip stick sight analysis" when I check it between changes.

I am not trying to disparage anyone just save you a few dollars. If spending $20 every couple of months makes you feel better, why not actually send a sample into Blackstone for $25 to learn what is actually going on with your oil until you break the 3,000 mile no matter what habit?

I am not a part of that company and have never used them myself because I believe the experts that are saying 3,000 mile oil changes are a waste.

links:
Tests / Price List

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas-engine.php
Jeeperz Creeperz is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 08-20-2012, 06:45 PM   #90
Jeeper
 
Jeeperz Creeperz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 897
Back on topic. Even though I don't see the need to change it so early, your dealership should do what the customer wants. Either take it up with the service manager or find a different dealer.

Jeeperz Creeperz is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:49 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC