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Old 10-26-2012, 02:57 PM   #151
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:01 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travis29 View Post
How about minimun gear ratio for each tire size.
(new tire size/stock tire size) * stock axle ratio = new axle ratio

Round up to the nearest available since bigger tires are heavier.

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Old 10-26-2012, 04:36 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by travis29 View Post
How about minimun gear ratio for each tire size.
Good point, this is something I had only done minimal research on. I have an '07 with 4:10 and 6-speed, so everything I had been told is that is about the min for 35" tires on my rig. (so far I am happy with it)
I know there is a vast differance between the 3.8 and 3.6 torque so I suppose there should be lists for each JK engine as well as to take into account manual vs. auto.

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(new tire size/stock tire size) * stock axle ratio = new axle ratio

Round up to the nearest available since bigger tires are heavier.
That is a good rule of . . . thumb. <=== Thumb
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:43 PM   #154
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I've convinced myself that the gussets will be enough to handle my light to moderate wheeling, but I really wish it didn't cost so damn much to add the truss...
This is exactly where I settled. I'm doing the Synergy C Gussets and Synergy front LCA skids and rear EVO LCA skids. I'm hoping I don't need the sleeve/truss.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:56 PM   #155
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Good thread Im going to check mine tonight
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #156
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I picked up gussets and lca skids from Artec to handle my 35's. I wanted to add the truss as well, but doing so raises the labor cost by about $500! The problem is that installing the truss requires the welder to do several additional hours of work (removing and then reassembling the axle).

I've convinced myself that the gussets will be enough to handle my light to moderate wheeling, but I really wish it didn't cost so damn much to add the truss...
Someone who welds can truss an axle in no time with out using a lot of material. People act like they are going to run 44's on there JK's when it comes to trussing for some reason.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:10 PM   #157
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Okay, so I've read through this whole thread and have a couple of questions just so I can understand better.

I get that gussets beef up the C's, so I'm good on that (and will be performing this mod as soon as I get my Jeep), but what is the weld-on mod for the axle tube, sleeve or truss?

Either way, which is better, external or internal changes to beef up the axle?

I'm a weldor by trade so will likely do the welding myself after my soon-to-be best friend, the mechanic, tears everything apart for me to get in there.

Also, since everything is going to be torn down already, would it make sense to go ahead and change out the ball joints while it's on the rack?

I want to do as much as I can at one time. I don't mind paying up front if it means I will have less problems later.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:31 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by rivershark2005 View Post
Okay, so I've read through this whole thread and have a couple of questions just so I can understand better.

I get that gussets beef up the C's, so I'm good on that (and will be performing this mod as soon as I get my Jeep), but what is the weld-on mod for the axle tube, sleeve or truss?

Either way, which is better, external or internal changes to beef up the axle?

I'm a weldor by trade so will likely do the welding myself after my soon-to-be best friend, the mechanic, tears everything apart for me to get in there.

Also, since everything is going to be torn down already, would it make sense to go ahead and change out the ball joints while it's on the rack?

I want to do as much as I can at one time. I don't mind paying up front if it means I will have less problems later.
If you are going to have it all the way down it maks since to go ahead and sleeve it and maybe build a small truss afterwards.

Its not a bad idea to change the ball joints while you are at it. Thats what I did.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:32 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchThis! View Post

Someone who welds can truss an axle in no time with out using a lot of material. People act like they are going to run 44's on there JK's when it comes to trussing for some reason.
Actually, it takes many additional hours to fully disassemble (remove) an axle and then add a truss, which is why I didn't have it done... yet. That added labor is pretty damn expensive for those of us who can't weld.

Gussets and skids are fast and cheap, a truss isn't.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:04 PM   #160
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Actually, it takes many additional hours to fully disassemble (remove) an axle and then add a truss, which is why I didn't have it done... yet. That added labor is pretty damn expensive for those of us who can't weld.

Gussets and skids are fast and cheap, a truss isn't.
Why do you think you have to tear it down? The only thing you can mess up is the seals. Just take your time and dont get them to hot.
You dont have to worry about outer seals so it goes that much faster.


Yes I have done this a few times, not just read about it on the net. Did a small truss on my JK in about 45 mins while still on the jeep.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:16 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by WatchThis! View Post

Why do you think you have to tear it down? The only thing you can mess up is the seals. Just take your time and dont get them to hot.
You dont have to worry about outer seals so it goes that much faster.

Yes I have done this a few times, not just read about it on the net. Did a small truss on my JK in about 45 mins while still on the jeep.
My preferred welder, who is awesome and has a ton of Jeep experience btw, told me that he doesn't like doing the Artec truss without fully removing the axle.

I took his word for it.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:28 PM   #162
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Good point, this is something I had only done minimal research on. I have an '07 with 4:10 and 6-speed, so everything I had been told is that is about the min for 35" tires on my rig. (so far I am happy with it)
I know there is a vast differance between the 3.8 and 3.6 torque so I suppose there should be lists for each JK engine as well as to take into account manual vs. auto.



That is a good rule of . . . thumb. <=== Thumb
This is a list I would be interested in seeing as well. I'm running 35's with the 3.6 and 3.73 gears and was considering changing it but the shop that did my wheels and tires insisted that I give the stock gears a go before changing them. So far I've had zero issues either on or off road.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:52 PM   #163
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Subscribed! Very informative thread so far! This has lead me to a question of my own (may also be on some other readers minds as well). Im currently looking for a used JK, and am now wondering if there is anything in particular I can look for (more so visually - hard to take a Jeep apart you don't own yet) that might indicate major/minor wear on the front axle, C's, ball joints, etc?
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #164
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the aftermath of 5:13's and 37's
gonna do the full Artec kit and cross my fingers
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
My preferred welder, who is awesome and has a ton of Jeep experience btw, told me that he doesn't like doing the Artec truss without fully removing the axle.

I took his word for it.
I posted up about fabing up a truss not doing the artic.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:57 PM   #166
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the aftermath of 5:13's and 37's
gonna do the full Artec kit and cross my fingers


Awesome, in a bent metal kind of way!
But sad because that was probably a heart breaker when it happened.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:15 PM   #167
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The Rc duels could not even save her lol
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:36 PM   #168
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I did sleeves and gussets with 21 street miles on it, taking no chances. I had it done at the same time as the lift. I went with the Evo set up.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:25 PM   #169
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The Rc duels could not even save her lol
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:08 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paleh0rse
My preferred welder, who is awesome and has a ton of Jeep experience btw, told me that he doesn't like doing the Artec truss without fully removing the axle.

I took his word for it.
Your welder is right. I considered trying to weld the truss while the axle was in but I don't think it is physically possible to install it without removing the axle since you just cant get to all of the locations. I installed the gussets and skids a few weeks ago but will wait until it warms up before I pull the axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbo1220
the aftermath of 5:13's and 37's
gonna do the full Artec kit and cross my fingers
That is painful to even look at. How far out were you when it happened?
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:51 PM   #171
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:47 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Snazzmeister View Post
This is a list I would be interested in seeing as well. I'm running 35's with the 3.6 and 3.73 gears and was considering changing it but the shop that did my wheels and tires insisted that I give the stock gears a go before changing them. So far I've had zero issues either on or off road.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #173
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Moto: did you happen to see something similar to this for the 3.8 V6?
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #174
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moto: Did you happen to see something similar to this for the 3.8 v6?
Attachment 196512
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:19 AM   #175
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Thanks :thumbs up:
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #176
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Great thread! This is why I like JW Forum.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:43 AM   #177
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Fortunately it happened on my street doing about 15mph. Could have bee real ugly had it happened while wheelin or on a highway at speed' yeah it sucked snapped right in two
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:43 PM   #178
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Fortunately it happened on my street doing about 15mph. Could have bee real ugly had it happened while wheelin or on a highway at speed' yeah it sucked snapped right in two
for being lucky - glad that didn't happen out in the middle of nowhere.

You have me reconsidering my plan to do C's now and a truss later.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:37 PM   #179
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This thread has been an eye-opener.

I am running 35s with a 2.5" aev lift on a 2013 JKUR and would like to reinforce my axle.

Thinking that Synergy gussets would be a pretty good starting point I just got a quote for having them fitted locally. The place strongly recommend changing ball joints at the same time because of the likelihood of damaging them during welding. This runs the price about $800 higher. Do you really have to replace the ball joint to fit a gusset? What are the chances of damage during welding?

Very new to this whole game, and would like to allow my credit card to recover following the lift/ wheel switch so if I can get away with.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:45 PM   #180
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This thread has been an eye-opener.

I am running 35s with a 2.5" aev lift on a 2013 JKUR and would like to reinforce my axle.

Thinking that Synergy gussets would be a pretty good starting point I just got a quote for having them fitted locally. The place strongly recommend changing ball joints at the same time because of the likelihood of damaging them during welding. This runs the price about $800 higher. Do you really have to replace the ball joint to fit a gusset? What are the chances of damage during welding?

Very new to this whole game, and would like to allow my credit card to recover following the lift/ wheel switch so if I can get away with.
You don't need to remove the ball joints when installing the gussets. I had mine welded on in-place and the ball joints were fine. Just take a wet rag and wrap it around the ball joints. If your welder knows what he'd doing he won't mess things up.

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