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Old 01-17-2013, 09:18 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by kramer2k View Post
You don't need to remove the ball joints when installing the gussets. I had mine welded on in-place and the ball joints were fine. Just take a wet rag and wrap it around the ball joints. If your welder knows what he'd doing he won't mess things up.
Thanks Kramer. Could you say how many miles you have put on the stock ball joints after the welding was done?

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Old 01-17-2013, 09:27 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by -Lurkerer-

Thanks Kramer. Could you say how many miles you have put on the stock ball joints after the welding was done?
Maybe 1,000 approximately.

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Old 01-17-2013, 10:11 PM   #183
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I'm adding the Pure Jeep C gussets next week. My installer is charging me $75 which is incredible IMO. I doubt I will go with trusses or sleeves since I will do very light off roading like camping. No rocks!!
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:23 PM   #184
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Ball joint failure

Any one have a story about their ball joints failing after welding gussets with the stock ball joints in place?
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:23 AM   #185
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Originally Posted by -Lurkerer- View Post
Any one have a story about their ball joints failing after welding gussets with the stock ball joints in place?
I don't have a story about ball joint failure after welding in gussets; but I do know that the stock ball joints are plastic shit that ARE going to need replacing with over size tires so I just replaced them during the process with Synergy ball joints after welding in the gussets.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:26 AM   #186
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Originally Posted by JEEPDON View Post
I don't have a story about ball joint failure after welding in gussets; but I do know that the stock ball joints are plastic shit that ARE going to need replacing with over size tires so I just replaced them during the process with Synergy ball joints after welding in the gussets.
^^ This.

Might as well do both @ the same time, save on labor costs.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:49 AM   #187
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^^ This.

Might as well do both @ the same time, save on labor costs.
That is what I figured; and with old ball joints out I didn't have to play with wet rags, etc. while welding in gussets.
Course the only labor cost was my own skinned knuckles!!!
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:58 AM   #188
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X10 synergy ball joints
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:39 AM   #189
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X10 synergy ball joints
Just got back from a little cruise around the country side. First trip with the new ball joints on the highway and all I can say is the difference is night and day!!!!! My stock joints only had like 3000 miles on them; but knowing what they are I replaced them anyway and there is no comparison in the drivability on the highway or on gravel roads. So, anyone wondering if they should replace their stockers or not when doing "C" gussets. REPLACE THE DAMN THINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And if you have drivability issues after going to larger tires----REPLACE THE DAMN THINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:14 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by pkmcd99

This thread should scare you, it just brings to light an often over looked part of modifying vehicles, that is some folks buy a lift kit and think that is it and there ready to wheel the hell out of it. Sometimes, like with our Jk jeeps additional planing and modification/fortification IS necessary.
I dont see how a wheel with less back space will increase stress on the axle. Assuming the the weight of the wheel/tire is the same, the point of attachment on the axel is the same regardless of backspace. We are not making the axel any longer, it is just the wheel itself that now sticks out in a deep dish morphology.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:33 PM   #191
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I dont see how a wheel with less back space will increase stress on the axle. Assuming the the weight of the wheel/tire is the same, the point of attachment on the axel is the same regardless of backspace. We are not making the axel any longer, it is just the wheel itself that now sticks out in a deep dish morphology.
Think bigger---- move the vertical centerline of the wheel/tire assembly out ridiculously like 20 feet. What do you think would happen, even tho it is mounted in the same place? Now then, bring it back to the original; if you move the vertical centerline outward, it puts more stress on the bearings, "C"'s, and axle tubes.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:57 PM   #192
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A few folks recommended me wheel spacers to make clearance for my synergy tie rod ends.
I already have 3.75 BS and with 1.5 spacer. That would equal 2.25 BS
I don't want to do this even though people do.

Thoughts ?
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:03 PM   #193
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A few folks recommended me wheel spacers to make clearance for my synergy tie rod ends.
I already have 3.75 BS and with 1.5 spacer. That would equal 2.25 BS
I don't want to do this even though people do.

Thoughts ?
I thought you found some TREs that might work?
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:38 PM   #194
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Plan A, This is plan B
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #195
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Posted this in the axle reinforcement thread. This is all the info I have-

Stock Jeep Wrangler JK. Guy lives on a dirt road. No hard wheeling. Here's what happened to his axle. For those of you near Denver Colorado this is at HCP4x4 on the showroom floor:

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Old 01-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #196
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Sooooo. much. info. Brain on overload.


I have a 2013 JKU Sport (aka D30) with 3.73's. Does that mean that if I want 35's, I'll need:
  • New gears (4.56? 4.88?)
  • New tire carrier
  • C gussets
  • New ball joints


My "offroading" is just basic stuff; camping and bunny trails. This is my DD, no mountain climbing for me, haha.

And how does anyone do all of this at once w/o winning the lottery first?
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:05 PM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COStrider
Posted this in the axle reinforcement thread. This is all the info I have-

Stock Jeep Wrangler JK. Guy lives on a dirt road. No hard wheeling. Here's what happened to his axle. For those of you near Denver Colorado this is at HCP4x4 on the showroom floor:
So.... Your saying this is in the showroom of a place that sales axle upgrades? Showing how weak the axle is without the products they sale and install I presume. Hmmm......
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:25 PM   #198
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Originally Posted by COStrider View Post
Posted this in the axle reinforcement thread. This is all the info I have-

Stock Jeep Wrangler JK. Guy lives on a dirt road. No hard wheeling. Here's what happened to his axle. For those of you near Denver Colorado this is at HCP4x4 on the showroom floor:

Attachment 202902
Ya I think I'm gonna need a little more info before I believe that. Just sounds kind of fishy. Was he running 40's? did he hit something? I just kind of find that hard to believe as I have wheeled the crap out of mine on 35's and am putting on 37's tomorrow, without a sleeve and gusset as I plan to only run like that for a month or 2. Then I will be able to install the ProRock 44 I'm assembling. For the record I have multiple wheeling outings and about 7,000 miles on the Jeep with this setup.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:09 PM   #199
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Y'all do relise that that was a defective axle dont you? One does pop up every few years.
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My jeep's thread http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/che...st-111461.html
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:18 PM   #200
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So quick question does artec make a rear axle kit? will I need one? I have 2012 rubicon on 35 inch tires.

Also can someone explain to me why I need to change my balljoints? Can anyone link me to the recommended parts?

So just to get this straight, in order to run 35s safely, I'm planning on

-full front artec kit
- rear artec kit (if there is one)
- changing ball joints (any suggestions)

Would this be enough?
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:25 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by RacecarBMW
So quick question does artec make a rear axle kit? will I need one? I have 2012 rubicon on 35 inch tires.
-Really no need. The factory axle flange is weak. Northridge will press in bearings and abs tone rings, Ten factory axle shafts complete around $500.

Also can someone explain to me why I need to change my balljoints? Can anyone link me to the recommended parts?
Factory ballpoints use a plastic sleeve the ball rotates in. Won't last long especially running bigger tires. It's a good idea to do the BJ's if welding on C gussets.
Synergy dropped their price to compete with Alloy. I love my synergy BJ's

So just to get this straight, in order to run 35s safely, I'm planning on

-full front artec kit
- rear artec kit (if there is one)
- changing ball joints (any suggestions)

Would this be enough?
Yessir
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:28 PM   #202
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So if there is no need for the rear axle kit what do you recommend I do to make it stronger?

Or do you mean there is no need to make it stronger?
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:31 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchThis!
Y'all do relise that that was a defective axle dont you? One does pop up every few years.
Yes. Wish the conspiracy theorists would think outside the box. Here's some more info on my end; No one at that shop ever even showed me that axle or said anything about it ever (as I stated in the axle reinforcement thread) until after I ordered TF gusset and sleeve kit. I did so based on my high speed backcountry desires and after learning about avoiding possible issues with the front axle from this forum.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:33 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by JKASS

So.... Your saying this is in the showroom of a place that sales axle upgrades? Showing how weak the axle is without the products they sale and install I presume. Hmmm......
LOL. Did you out that one together yourself?! Wow, you rock at comedy! Ha
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:38 PM   #205
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Originally Posted by chrisfp88

Ya I think I'm gonna need a little more info before I believe that. Just sounds kind of fishy. Was he running 40's? did he hit something? I just kind of find that hard to believe as I have wheeled the crap out of mine on 35's and am putting on 37's tomorrow, without a sleeve and gusset as I plan to only run like that for a month or 2. Then I will be able to install the ProRock 44 I'm assembling. For the record I have multiple wheeling outings and about 7,000 miles on the Jeep with this setup.
I would be happy to get more info tomorrow when I go back to pickup my Jeep. I want to know more too, but snapped some quick shots and posted all I knew at the time as I left.

I'm not a metallurgist- maybe it only came down to a defect in the steel, production, or other aspect. Or could just be failure under thrashing on a dirt road for years.

Just trying to post up some info relative to the thread so you all can make your own mind up and those of you who know about steel and lived nearby could go take a peak at it yourself and maybe shed some light on it firsthand.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:53 PM   #206
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Yessir
Ten Factory MG22157 - TEN Factory™ 32 Spline Grande Rear Axle Kit for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with Dana 44 Axle Rubicon Model - Quadratec

Would that be enough for the rear axle? I have a rubicon with 35 inch tires.

Do I even need to do anything to the rear?
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:01 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by RacecarBMW

Ten Factory MG22157 - TEN Factory™ 32 Spline Grande Rear Axle Kit for 07-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with Dana 44 Axle Rubicon Model - Quadratec

Would that be enough for the rear axle? I have a rubicon with 35 inch tires.

Do I even need to do anything to the rear?
You're asking all the right questions. I would also like this answered if possible...
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #208
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Originally Posted by hbgirl
Sooooo. much. info. Brain on overload.

I have a 2013 JKU Sport (aka D30) with 3.73's. Does that mean that if I want 35's, I'll need:
[*]New gears - 3:73's might make you want to upgrade gears but they will work fine.[*]New tire carrier - Yes. Some people will swear that they have put a 35 on their stock tire carrier but eventually the sheet metal will pay the price.[*]C gussets - Yes. Just good insurance.[*]New ball joints - Obvious mixed opinions on this one. I personally didn't want to upgrade since I only had a few thousand miles on the stock joints. So far no issues but time will tell if it was a bad decision.
:confused
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:10 PM   #209
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The rear is fine. I would rather save for a PR 44 then dump money in my stock axle.
I honesty think most of the axle upgrades people do are overkill for what they do anyways.

The way i look at it. Caster/pinion separation on the stock housing blows and I'm running low caster for my front Ds.
I would rather save for a PR 44(with 10 degrees separation) and sell my stock axle to recoup some $$.

And yes... Contact Dave at NR. He will put together the axles for you. Obtaining new tone rings and buying complete axles let's you save the stocks for trail spares.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:20 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COStrider
Posted this in the axle reinforcement thread. This is all the info I have-

Stock Jeep Wrangler JK. Guy lives on a dirt road. No hard wheeling. Here's what happened to his axle. For those of you near Denver Colorado this is at HCP4x4 on the showroom floor:
Looks like slag split to me. Sometimes (not often), during steel manufacture, if the heat is a little too high, not all of the slag will float and skim. This leaves slag, which normally stays close together, in the steel as it is being formed. I've seen it several times in pipe testing. The area around the break would look weird on either x-ray or ultrasound.

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