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Old 08-24-2012, 03:16 PM   #1
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Unadulterated Truth w/35s

So its clear that the front axles in the Jk series wranglers are not a great choice when upgrading your tires to 35". This isnt a thread to dispute the stronger and latger ring gear etc of the dana 44 over the dana 30. It is however a real world experience and no Magazine journalist article on the truth of the axle durability. We know the axle tubes and knuckles are less than desirable on the Jk front options. But are they really so delicate they bend and disfigure even with simple dailey driving? Are sleaves and gussets necessary for the weekend warrior? Im tired of explaning my opinion, this is a question ive posted to show a non member. Be nice, stay on topic. Any experiences are helpfull. Thanks in advance everybody.

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Old 08-24-2012, 03:20 PM   #2
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I swapped to 34x10.50-15 LTBs the moment I pulled in the driveway with my '12. Drove on those for about (~5,000 miles) three months (two light wheeling trips on rocks) and when I went to get an alignment immediately after a "proper" lift and 35s the specs were already indicating my Cs were leaning in at the top. I was really disappointed in the lack of durability.

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Old 08-24-2012, 03:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frshmt
I swapped to 34x10.50-15 LTBs the moment I pulled in the driveway with my '12. Drove on those for about (~5,000 miles) three months (two light wheeling trips on rocks) and when I went to get an alignment immediately after a "proper" lift and 35s the specs were already indicating my Cs were leaning in at the top. I was really disappointed in the lack of durability.
Yikes. Ive suspected and preached this weakness. Great input. What was the repair bill, or was is still in adjustable correction range?
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #4
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Any preference on gussets? Any affect on factory warranty by having some welded in?

I'm on 35's with the D44 front axle, but this is definitely an issue I don't want to encounter regardless of what axles I have.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmcd99

Yikes. Ive suspected and preached this weakness. Great input. What was the repair bill, or was is still in adjustable correction range?
X2

At what point can a bent C cant be "fixed"?
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metonymy View Post
Any preference on gussets? Any affect on factory warranty by having some welded in?

I'm on 35's with the D44 front axle, but this is definitely an issue I don't want to encounter regardless of what axles I have.
The C's are weak regardless of the axle.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:24 PM   #7
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would anyone be so kind as to show a picture of your sleeve/gusset work - preferably before & after?
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:35 PM   #8
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Sleeve can't really be seen.

Not my gusset job btw
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Sleeve can't really be seen.
Sure they can if you know what you are looking at.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #10
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My front is also trussed but I don't have a pic of it on my phone
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10
Sleeve can't really be seen.

Not my gusset job btw
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:47 PM   #12
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Man, I am knee deep in this issue right now and was just putting together an info-type packet to show my wife (all out-the-door-with-shipping pricing, or Q's free shipping).

Evo sleeve (sealed) and gussets are $234.99
Tereflex sleeve and gusset (not above and below) with Superior seal caps is $220.97

Evo sleeve (sealed) and the comprehensive rustyoffroad gussets (6 pieces) is 260.99

My choice, I think, is tereflex sleeve, Superior seals and rustyoffroad gussets is $239.98

JKS makes gussets (above and below) for $107.50

But the "Bombshell" kit is from Rockslider.com which is everything, to include outer sleeve welds, inner sleeve, etc for 357.89. The outter sleeve welds alone are 2231.89.

Soooooooooooooooooo many choices. But saying that, I am sure of this, even with my 255/80/17 pizza cutters (not heavy at all) -- I am beefing it up with something.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:52 PM   #13
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I was told by Jeep they absolutely will not replace the axle, because it was clearly being abuse well beyond the intended purpose of the vehicle. The fix cost? I pull slightly left to keep it straight.

Seriously, though- only the internals of the axles are covered and that does not include the shafts at all. I would know- my right rear shaft has been tweaked at the flange since two weeks after purchase and they refuse to do anything about it.

Weld away on the axle housings because A- it's not gonna be covered anyway… and B- it's very expensive to properly fix it; so basically, once they're bent… they're bent. I could still go in with adjustable ball joints, but I rotate aggressively as it is so tire wear will be minimal. I'll gusset the front ASAP and when the ball joints are ready to be replaced, I'll get the Poly Performance ones.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:53 PM   #14
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Also check out POLY PERFORMANCE - YOUR OFF-ROAD SOURCE - JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY 4X4 | ATV/UTV | MOTO | SNOW | RALLY | RC - www.polyperformance.com as they have some awesome stuff for fortifying your rig on a budget.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:58 PM   #15
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Man your service department sucks. I know a guy who had a shim come out on his aftermarket gear set and ruined the gears. All he had to do was suply the new gears and they did the work under warranty. This was on a jeep with 37's.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frshmt
I was told by Jeep they absolutely will not replace the axle, because it was clearly being abuse well beyond the intended purpose of the vehicle. The fix cost? I pull slightly left to keep it straight.

Seriously, though- only the internals of the axles are covered and that does not include the shafts at all. I would know- my right rear shaft has been tweaked at the flange since two weeks after purchase and they refuse to do anything about it.

Weld away on the axle housings because A- it's not gonna be covered anyway… and B- it's very expensive to properly fix it; so basically, once they're bent… they're bent. I could still go in with adjustable ball joints, but I rotate aggressively as it is so tire wear will be minimal. I'll gusset the front ASAP and when the ball joints are ready to be replaced, I'll get the Poly Performance ones.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:18 PM   #17
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This is some interesting info. I would imagine the stock 32s on my rubicon would t be enough to cause such damage. Am I correct in thinking this?
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
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This is some interesting info. I would imagine the stock 32s on my rubicon would t be enough to cause such damage. Am I correct in thinking this?
Ive herd of the stock set up doing this, but its under more demanding driving conditions.
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmcd99

Ive herd of the stock set up doing this, but its under more demanding driving conditions.
A good pothole whack
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:05 PM   #20
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A good pothole whack
Seriously?
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:23 PM   #21
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Seen mention of it.

I had an alignment done back when I was all stock. No wheeling.
Camber spec was 0.2 and 0.9
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:27 PM   #22
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Two weeks after I bought it I may have dropped the front end from about 24" in the air. It was probably that same spot that I bent the right rear axle flange.

That MIGHT have had something to do with it.

Wish I had taken it seriously and gusseted first. I would very strongly recommend to ANYONE who plans to actually wheel a JK… gusset the tar out of the front axle ASAP.

Here's my right rear wheel. Look closesly; you can see the caliper pulsing back and forth:



Here's the alignment specs at around 5,000 miles… I don't know WTF it means, but Rock Krawler told me it appears my Cs are leaning inward.



I'm getting it realigned ASAP, as that shop did a treacherous job and I have recently set up a new sponsor on our local message board who swears they can get me driving perfectly straight.
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Old 08-25-2012, 01:31 AM   #23
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Wow, check out this kit. Looks like the whole kit/kaboodle without tearing into the axle itself.

This a good deal?

Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:05 AM   #24
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Still learning about all of this....can someone simplify for me what the Gussets are doing compared to the Sleeves? Is just doing Gussets helping or is it pointless to do one and not the other?

Also....I don't weld, I barely wrench at this point, so I don't see me doing a project like this myself. Any ideas what I could expect to pay a shop to install Gussets and/or Sleeves?

Thx
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:20 AM   #25
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:24 AM   #26
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:06 AM   #27
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Gussets are to keep the "C"'s from opening up. Sleeves help keep the tube from bending. Both are week points on axes. Not just the Jk's, but all SFA vehicles.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:08 AM   #28
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From what I gather, and I am a noob too. The sleeves keep the axle tubes from bending, the gussets spread the load from the c's to the axle tube to keep form bending.

^^^ beat me to it
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:15 AM   #29
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WatchThis! and traitor08 have it right. If you gusset the Cs they'll help to protect the Cs, but then load is spread along the tube, which makes the sleeves (or a full truss) more important.

The reason this is a bigger problem on the JK than it was on previous models is the JK has a ~5" wider axle. This is because they went to a V6 in 2007 instead of the I-6 in previous years. The frame had to be wider, so the body had to be wider, so the axles had to be wider. That 5" means an awful lot in terms of leverage and rigidity.

The Artec kit is very nice- that's what I'm planning to do, now that they've officially released the system. I have a buddy who installed an Artec rear truss/gusset/bracket system on a 8.8 for his TJ and he said everything was dead perfect as far as fit and finish.
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:43 AM   #30
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Okay thank you everyone. That helps me understand much better.

This is the Artec kit we are talking about correct?: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

How involved is installing this kit? I understand it is welded on and not something I'm doing but if I call around looking for a shop I'm wondering what is reasonable for them to say in terms of the work involved.

Also...why are we only talking about the front end? Is the rear axle more beefy because it is the main drive axle?

Thanks again!

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