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Unlimited door removal: all you have to do is...yeah, right...

8K views 82 replies 47 participants last post by  JJH79 
#1 ·
Well as you might have deduced, my door removal experience was less than stellar.

The wiring disconnect was a bit of a hassle, not bad, but it could have been done so much better, but it's livable.

So I lift the driver's door off the hinges and start for the storage area, and wow, this thing is getting heavy! I guess if you're a young whipper-snapper you might see it differently, but if you ask me, it's not necessarily a one-person operation as might be suggested.

Well, I got the door off and was so glad to set it down! But, next, I was in for the really hard part - getting it back on!

The reinstall issue is three part: me (or lack of me) to hold the door in position, the few places to hold the door, and a less than optimal design on the door pins and hinges.

Starting with the latter, the door pins and hinges, the problem is that two pins have to be inserted into two holes at exactly the same time. It sounds easy when you say it fast like that. But, I thought in this century we were more into the MMI (man-machine-interface). So how could this be better? Simple. Just make the top pin and hinge a bit longer, say 3/8" - 1/2" longer than the lower pin. That would let you get one pin started at a time. You can focus on getting the top pin aligned and started, let the door down just a little to engage the pin and you would have a lot more stability to align the bottom pin - like one thing at a time.

To this end, since I can't modify the door hinge, I'm going to make a poly extension for the top and bottom door pins. The bottom extension will be just enough to cover the pin threads to protect both them and the paint on the hinge. The top extension will be about 1/2" longer which will again, protect the threads and paint and allow the top pin to be started first and then the bottom pin can be aligned and inserted.

Once the door is in place the poly extensions can be removed and the cap screws can be installed. I think that will help a lot.

As for the lacking of hand-holds to hold and align the door, not sure what I'll do about that, and for the lacking of me, I guess I'll start going to the gym and lift weights.
 
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#4 ·
start by rolling down the windows. After removing the door pins, electrical connection, and check strap stand on the inside of the door and reach through the window and grasp the door handle. With your other hand, grab the check strap at it's thickest part and lift up on the door.

When the check strap is removed, be careful that you don't let the door swing all the way open or the side mirror hit the cowlside making a nasty dent.
 
#9 ·
#7 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the comments, but getting the door off wasn't a problem it's getting it back on.
 
#10 ·
First time was a pain. Now they come off and go back on in a snap.

Once you find a grip that you're comfortable with, the hinge alignment is easy.

Holding the door about 90 degrees from the side was what really made it easy for me.

I'm 42, so I'm not sure if I qualify as young. But I still get carded everywhere I go.
Hahaha.....
 
#16 ·
First time was a pain. Now they come off and go back on in a snap.
It's a snap for you younger guys. This door is heavy; I had a very difficult time handling it.

...Once you find a grip that you're comfortable with, the hinge alignment is easy.
It may not be as hard, but you're comparing yourself as a younger, stronger guy to an older, not-nearly-as-strong-as-I-used-to-be guy. I'm too young to be this old! I find that getting older isn't good for you! :eek:

...Holding the door about 90 degrees from the side was what really made it easy for me.
I realized that would have helped after I had the door back on and had some brain time.

...I'm 42, so I'm not sure if I qualify as young. But I still get carded everywhere I go.
Hahaha.....
Young whipper snapper! :)
 
#14 ·
I've been wondering how I'm going to do this myself, I have a bad back. At 80lbs a door I could get them off but I'd probably spend a week in the hospital afterwards. I thinking some kind of crane to do this. It may cost some $$$$ to come up with it but for me it's about the only option for doors off. I'm thinking some kind of gantry crane setup. I'm sure I can come up with something. They have hardtop hoist why not door hoists.
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
Found on another thread:


I am not saying they are light by any means. Even at just 60lbs, with back issues and the awkward movements involved in removing and replacing the doors is plenty to flare up any back problems.

dp
You're right! Even if one doesn't have a back problem, as we age, we have to be more careful about weight, the back, and motions or we can induce a nagging back problem.

E.g. one of the worst things we can do with our back is lift and twist - a motion commonly used to shovel snow.
 
#20 ·
I need to take a video of how I do mine. I kinda press the door straight up with my right hand from the middle of the window frame, prop the bottom of the door on my right thigh, support the bottom of the door with my left hand. Then I gently squat down while guiding the pins into the holes. lol! Sounds ridiculous, I know, but it helps me control the door and ease the pins into the hinges. This is for driver side. I just reverse everything for the other side.
 
#22 ·
Sounds like an excellent method.

The problem is, different methods work with differing degrees of success based on one's physical size, shape, and ability. Although I climb trees (well, a rope installed in a tree) for fun and exercise, I would approach a squat with a 60+ lb door cautiously. Unfortunately, my mind tells me I can, my back and knees don't agree.

But, I'm sure gonna think about this; that may be a workable method for me.
 
#23 ·
To the OP how old are you ? and i never would have thought they were that heavy.... then again i guess being 30 years old would make me a young whipper-snapper huh ? lol
 
#33 ·
lay your hands on a couple of those large stick on refrigerator magnets , the kind that have advertisements on them are sometimes 4x6 inches, then place one above each hinge during replacement. They don't get in the way and they protect your paint if one of your pins miss the target.
 
#35 ·
Roll down the windows. It was a struggle trying to get them back in the first time. I think I held the door for closer to 1 minute trying to align up the hinges. Anyways, it doesn't take too long now, maybe 5 seconds.

I also don't think the door is very heavy. I can hold it by the top window seal and lift it overhead and I'm only 5'7" and 165lbs.
 
#36 ·
Doesn't help with the alignment issue other than giving you more practice but the ACE door hangers are nice to keep you from having to bend over.

Having them about the same height is easier than picking them up off the floor or a cart. Aligning the pins gets to be easy after you do it a few times.
 
#38 ·
Doesn't help with the alignment issue other than giving you more practice but the ACE door hangers are nice to keep you from having to bend over.

Having them about the same height is easier than picking them up off the floor or a cart. Aligning the pins gets to be easy after you do it a few times.
I prefer the "Home Depot" bracket method. I don't like the idea of them hanging by the hinges only w/ no additional support.
 

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#37 ·
The Outlaws pins can be left on permanently. I never put the lower nuts back on ever but haven't found a need for the extended pins either. I sort of use Archer's method but opposite. I find it easier to roll the window down and reach through from the OUTSIDE and grab a feature on the door panel. "Outside" hand is under the pinch weld at the bottom of the door. This way you can easily see the pin/hinge alignment. First couple of times I put painters tape on the hinges/panel. I don't make my wife pull the doors but she can do the harnesses w/ her eye's closed now.

NEVER pull the retention strap until you're ready to remove the door! And I don't recommend not having a hand on the door at any time it's open w/ the strap removed. Way to many dinged cowl panels on here.
 
#42 ·
Not sure the hinge studs are easily removable on the doors.
 
#44 ·
It takes 2 seconds to disconnect the harness.
 
#46 ·
:worthy: Hadn't thought of that one. They're really not that bad though.
 
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