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Old 03-01-2012, 02:27 AM   #451
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Cost of resolving is a new head plus remove/replace costs. Or $0 for you under warranty.

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:55 AM   #452
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Cost of resolving is a new head plus remove/replace costs. Or $0 for you under warranty.
Guys

Any idea how much would the "head" cost, after the purchase, that thing will spend two months on the seas all the way to Central Asia. if something breaks, then the replacments will take the same time to arrive... awful shipping cost plus warranty will definetly voided...

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Old 03-01-2012, 06:34 AM   #453
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....sorry not for 30K! To each his own...statistics be damned.
This ^
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:53 AM   #454
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Understood but It's not overreacting if it it's your low mileage jk sitting in the shop or left you stranded. I'm sure most people don't have problems but I'm not liking the odds and we have also decided to wait for 2013 in order for Jeep to further sort things. We drove 2 2012 JKU's one leaked and one whistled...both hardtops - my wife was like sorry not for 30K! The power increase was nice but not enough to get us to jump on it right away. I was more concerned with the beta (in the JK) motor....nothing wrong with a little patience. our 2010 JK is just fine and we plan to keep it. I also hold off on first year firearms purchases, another item I'd prefer not to return to the dealer due to malfunctions..Hi Points have great warranties but that does not help you when you need it most. To each his own...statistics be damned.
Early on my gut feeling was to wait for 2013, then a twist of fate forced me to wait. Glad I did. I do think the 2012 was an improvement over the older models especially if it is an automatic transmission equipped Wrangler you're after.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:15 AM   #455
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Guys

Any idea how much would the "head" cost, after the purchase, that thing will spend two months on the seas all the way to Central Asia. if something breaks, then the replacments will take the same time to arrive... awful shipping cost plus warranty will definetly voided...
Head alone is $455 and that is with a core return, so your freight is two way.

I know that you have expressed some strong feelings about diesel's, but your location does provide you access to the 2.8l CRD Wrangler that is built for export to the rest of the world....
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:41 PM   #456
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Guys,

one more question, i consired this issue somewhat "isolated to some affected" vehicles so would like to take my chances on 2012, but if it ever happened to strike my purchase, how much in dollars will it be resolved without involving dealer warranty thing? i mean i will not be having this 5 year/100k warranty thing...

The 5 year / 100k powertrain warranty is included with all Wranglers.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:47 PM   #457
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The 5 year / 100k powertrain warranty is included with all Wranglers.
In the country of their purchase.

If you export the Wrangler to some other country, like the OP, well.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:55 PM   #458
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I have a JKU '12. I did not have ticking (that I noticed) BUT... at around 9100 miles, I had to have my 2nd cylinder replaced. They said it was a factory defect. Manufacture date of 9/11. I had a loaner for 10 days. It runs great now. The only indication that I had was my check engine light when on/off several times so I took it in. It wasn't until the 2nd time of bringing it in did they "discover" the problem.
Same scenario for me, although I had noticeable ticking.

My dealer called today to report that mine is all done. I'll be picking it up tomorrow. Man, driving a Ram 1500 for a couple of weeks really made me miss the Wrangler.
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:43 PM   #459
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Early on my gut feeling was to wait for 2013, then a twist of fate forced me to wait. Glad I did. I do think the 2012 was an improvement over the older models especially if it is an automatic transmission equipped Wrangler you're after.
Cool story, bro.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:20 PM   #460
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Getting it fixed and back will be great bluehen....I was jonesin will mine was under the knife.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #461
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Getting it fixed and back will be great bluehen....I was jonesin will mine was under the knife.
Got her back and she sounds and runs great. Props to Pete at I.G. Burton Chrysler/Jeep, who did the work.

I was reading through the paperwork. They did a cylinder leakage test before the head replacement and she had 80% leakage from cylinder #6 and 60% leakage from cylinder #2.

Glad to be back in my ride. If the weather's nice enough this weekend, I'm going to pick up my 2012 DE surf fishing sticker and take a spin on the beach to celebrate.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:28 PM   #462
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Glad to hear it's back on the road!
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:23 PM   #463
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Angry Damn...........

.............. build date 7/11

1. about 5400-mi on her now
2. At 1300-mi it was towed in 2-times, as I blew 2 coil-packs (same one twice)
3. After the 2nd repair, the dealer blew the coil-pack as he was leaving the shop for a test drive
4. The "STAR" team came up with a "band-aid" repair, and so far OK

Yesterday, I noticed this same odd sounding ticking noise on the drivers side of the engine! Deep, tick, not that ordinary click we are all use too

This would be failure 4, if we count it dying on the dealer

I am not at my wits end with this thing

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Old 03-02-2012, 04:40 PM   #464
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Well I took mine in today and the Service manager called me at 10:30 to pick it up. I went in and talked to them and they told me they checked it with a new one on the lot and they both had the ticking. The result from them was it is normal injector ticking. I really have to say that this does not suprise me that it is NORMAL. I told him that I would drive it and see what happens considering it has a 100,000 mile warranty on the engine. I told them that I believe if it is a serious issue it will rear its ungly head before the 100,000 miles and they will have to fix it anyway. I then thanked them for looking at it and left. We will now play the waiting game and see what happens.
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:07 PM   #465
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Took the wife's Overland in earlier in the week and still don't have it back. They replaced cam phasers on the driver's side and the intake. Once they finished that up they called and said it now had a ticking on the passenger's side and were looking into that as well. They gave me a call today and it should be ready tomorrow.

Her Jeep didn't throw one code... nothing. I just noticed it was louder than my ticking and once mine was fixed her Jeep was just screaming. I'm glad I took it in now as that is our traveling Jeep.
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:44 PM   #466
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My 2012 was fine with no ticking and then it started after the first oil change at 2000 miles. I put in mobile one 5w 30 and then, bam, slight tick. I will try another oil next change and see if the ticking changes. Or if it quiets down after a few thousand miles as the oil gets thicker with whatever oil gets dirty with. This is a slight ticking and I really don't care because of the good warranty these things have now. Besides, I truly think there is a direct correlation to oil viscosity and oil brand/type here. I bet switching to a more slick synthetic causes slower moving head parts to really move around more freely. Maybe everyone with a ticking should try draining their oil and putting in the next higher viscosity? I will try 0w 40 next time if I stick with mobile one.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:35 AM   #467
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Mine is in the shop now for this. Build date 10/11.

The drivers side has been doing it for the last 1100 miles. The tick sounds like an exhaust leak and has steadily gotten more pronounced.

As of yesterday the passenger side started the same tick.

There have been no MIL or check engine lights.

I'll post up my experiences with getting it fixed (hopefully) soon.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:26 PM   #468
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Got the "we compared it to other vehicles" and "no mil" verdict.

Let round two begin.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:48 PM   #469
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My 2012 was fine with no ticking and then it started after the first oil change at 2000 miles. I put in mobile one 5w 30 and then, bam, slight tick. I will try another oil next change and see if the ticking changes. Or if it quiets down after a few thousand miles as the oil gets thicker with whatever oil gets dirty with. This is a slight ticking and I really don't care because of the good warranty these things have now. Besides, I truly think there is a direct correlation to oil viscosity and oil brand/type here. I bet switching to a more slick synthetic causes slower moving head parts to really move around more freely. Maybe everyone with a ticking should try draining their oil and putting in the next higher viscosity? I will try 0w 40 next time if I stick with mobile one.
If it were me, I'd stick with the factory recommended oil weight and document each oil change. You've got a 5 yr 100k mile warranty, don't give them any reason to wiggle out by saying you used the wrong grade oil.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:57 PM   #470
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My Plan:

1. Do all maintenance as required to keep warranty in force.
2. Unless the engine falls out of the Jeep drive it as I would with no clicking.
3. At 90,000 miles if it is a problem go to the dealership for warranty work.
4. Enjoy my Jeep!

I have better things to do than worrying about something I am not sure is happening.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:02 PM   #471
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My Plan:

1. Do all maintenance as required to keep warranty in force.
2. Unless the engine falls out of the Jeep drive it as I would with no clicking.
3. At 90,000 miles if it is a problem go to the dealership for warranty work.
4. Enjoy my Jeep!

I have better things to do than worrying about something I am not sure is happening.
To me that sounds like a good plan!
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:18 PM   #472
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I would add 1a, if you're really unsure, have the dealer do all the work needed to keep the warranty in force, because if the dealer then tries to deny warranty under the assertion "you should have known something was wrong!", you can then point out that he had the vehicle in his shop every 4,000 miles so if his trained mechanics didn't think anything was wrong when they touched the car, how were you supposed to know?

Of course, that adds expense, but this is a $35,000 car (sigh!) so...
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:55 PM   #473
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If it were me, I'd stick with the factory recommended oil weight and document each oil change. You've got a 5 yr 100k mile warranty, don't give them any reason to wiggle out by saying you used the wrong grade oil.
Sorry but you don't know what you're talking about. 5w 30 is recommended but switching to another SAE Chrysler approve oil weight is fine as well. No warranties are voided by switching. Every engine is different even if they come from the same plant and castings. If 40w runs better in your engine than 30w by all means you should switch.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #474
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I would add 1a, if you're really unsure, have the dealer do all the work needed to keep the warranty in force, because if the dealer then tries to deny warranty under the assertion "you should have known something was wrong!", you can then point out that he had the vehicle in his shop every 4,000 miles so if his trained mechanics didn't think anything was wrong when they touched the car, how were you supposed to know?

Of course, that adds expense, but this is a $35,000 car (sigh!) so...
Not necessary. I document every gallon of gas, car wash, windshield washer fluid, oil change etc for tax purposes. It does not have to be done at the dealership.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:22 PM   #475
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Sorry but you don't know what you're talking about. 5w 30 is recommended but switching to another SAE Chrysler approve oil weight is fine as well. No warranties are voided by switching. Every engine is different even if they come from the same plant and castings. If 40w runs better in your engine than 30w by all means you should switch.
Sorry but you are talking out of your *ss. If you wind up in court and you can show the judge the book they gave you with the Jeep and the viscosity in the book matches your stack of oil change receipts, you are miles ahead. Good luck trying to explain to the judge why you in your independent judgment switched to a different "SAE Chrysler approve oil weight" because your engine is "different" even though it is "from the same plant and castings."

And yes, I am aware of Magnuson-Moss. But as they say, if you have your choice between the law and the facts, take the facts. And I would add, if you can have both, take both.

But hey - that's just my opinion, it's certainly not legal advice. But I do think that, from a practical standpoint, you will find it easier to get your warranty honored if you just follow the owner's manual.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:30 PM   #476
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Not to stir the pot, but my dealer does oil/filter changes & system safety checks for the same price as the local oil change shops. They also offer discounts for multi change packages. I've given up changing my own oil, too old, have to go to the oil change shops to get rid of the old oil anyway. Just easier to go to the dealer.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:44 PM   #477
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Not to stir the pot, but my dealer does oil/filter changes & system safety checks for the same price as the local oil change shops. They also offer discounts for multi change packages. I've given up changing my own oil, too old, have to go to the oil change shops to get rid of the old oil anyway. Just easier to go to the dealer.
I changed my oil for the first time on my own when my jeep hit 900 miles...it was fun and all but I found out I get my first 4 oil changes free from the dealer (not sure why they didn't mention that when I bought it) and even still the Jacksonville Jeep dealer has $14 oil changes with 6 qrts of 5w-30 and a mopar filter...hard to beat that...
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:10 PM   #478
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Oil change with filter is $21 in Oakland County.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:52 PM   #479
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Sorry but you are talking out of your *ss. If you wind up in court and you can show the judge the book they gave you with the Jeep and the viscosity in the book matches your stack of oil change receipts, you are miles ahead. Good luck trying to explain to the judge why you in your independent judgment switched to a different "SAE Chrysler approve oil weight" because your engine is "different" even though it is "from the same plant and castings."

And yes, I am aware of Magnuson-Moss. But as they say, if you have your choice between the law and the facts, take the facts. And I would add, if you can have both, take both.

But hey - that's just my opinion, it's certainly not legal advice. But I do think that, from a practical standpoint, you will find it easier to get your warranty honored if you just follow the owner's manual.
LOL! Defensive, or sensitive... Whatever you feel, ok with me. Don't worry I won't take nonsense legal opinion advice from someone with little mechanical knowledge. It's alright, fluid dynamics and mechanical engineering are indeed tough concepts to grasp.

Anyways. Recommendations are just that. Recommendations for the average Joe don't know. I'd rather fix my mass produced hand crafted by robots and underpaid union workers Jeep and make a slight tweak to have it twice as long as the average person. Have fun documenting everything you do instead of taking the insentive to correct mediocrity in a manufacturing process. I'll pass on trusting the brilliant Chrysler engineers and their recommendations. Thanks.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:21 PM   #480
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LOL! Defensive, or sensitive... Whatever you feel, ok with me. Don't worry I won't take nonsense legal opinion advice from someone with little mechanical knowledge. It's alright, fluid dynamics and mechanical engineering are indeed tough concepts to grasp.

Anyways. Recommendations are just that. Recommendations for the average Joe don't know. I'd rather fix my mass produced hand crafted by robots and underpaid union workers Jeep and make a slight tweak to have it twice as long as the average person. Have fun documenting everything you do instead of taking the insentive to correct mediocrity in a manufacturing process. I'll pass on trusting the brilliant Chrysler engineers and their recommendations. Thanks.
Sounds good. If you have a problem, have fun explaining to the dealer, Chrysler, and potentially a judge or jury why your expertise on fluid dynamics and mechanical engineering trumps their claims to the contrary.

Look, if you want to have a discussion about the very best possible oil to use in a particular engine, engineering concepts have a place. Certainly there are manufacturing variances and there very well may be particular engines that would prefer a different viscosity. I never suggested there was a mechanical problem running a different grade oil - I suggested your best bet for warranty purposes was to follow the owner's manual.

And guess what - if you have a 2012 Wrangler and you're worried about your engine with 5,000 miles on it, you need to concentrate on making sure you take the necessary steps to prevent invalidating your warranty, or giving the dealer/manufacturer anything to hang their hat on in that respect. All this nonsense about switching grades of oil is just going to cause someone more problems getting their warranty honored.

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