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Old 06-08-2013, 07:36 PM   #5041
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:31 PM   #5042
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If we would all just stop using bad gasoline, we wouldn't have to worry about all of this.

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Old 06-09-2013, 06:04 AM   #5043
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Originally Posted by Trek7.2FX View Post
If we would all just stop using bad gasoline, we wouldn't have to worry about all of this.
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:21 AM   #5044
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:55 AM   #5045
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If we would all just stop using bad gasoline, we wouldn't have to worry about all of this.
Now that right there is funny, don't care who you are!
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:43 PM   #5046
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So I've been reading the hoopla about the temp gauges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. 1. I'm quite sure these gauges aren't meant to be as accurate as everyone here thinks they should be. 2. These engines should all be running about the same temp if they all have the same thermostat. 3. If these engines can't cool off and the thermostat never closes we'd be getting overheat/boil over issues. Nonetheless I'm a believer in a cooler engine regardless, I've removed the top engine cowl, the rear weather strip on the hood(jury is out on rainwater) and thinking about removing the front weather strip that's double sided taped to the grill ( again, rain water and bugs). Id also love to remove that huge hunk of foam on top the drivers side head. Input?
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:55 AM   #5047
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Sitting at the dealer right now waiting for them to determine if the head needs replacing
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:50 AM   #5048
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Originally Posted by Trek7.2FX View Post
If we would all just stop using bad gasoline, we wouldn't have to worry about all of this.
I think it's the kool-aid from another Thread.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #5049
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Well as another 2012 to the list, they are replacing my driver side head, will take 2-3 days.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:53 PM   #5050
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I have a 2012 with 5687 miles on it now , is there a certain mileage that these problems happen or it could happen any time? What kind of noise does it make , is it a pretty loud ticking noise or something else?
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #5051
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I have a 2012 with 5687 miles on it now , is there a certain mileage that these problems happen or it could happen any time? What kind of noise does it make , is it a pretty loud ticking noise or something else?
No, there is no clear pattern. You can have no ticking and still throw a CEL code. Best to not worry and drive it as you normally do.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:03 PM   #5052
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Originally Posted by rox-n-mud View Post
So I've been reading the hoopla about the temp gauges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. 1. I'm quite sure these gauges aren't meant to be as accurate as everyone here thinks they should be. 2. These engines should all be running about the same temp if they all have the same thermostat. 3. If these engines can't cool off and the thermostat never closes we'd be getting overheat/boil over issues. Nonetheless I'm a believer in a cooler engine regardless, I've removed the top engine cowl, the rear weather strip on the hood(jury is out on rainwater) and thinking about removing the front weather strip that's double sided taped to the grill ( again, rain water and bugs). Id also love to remove that huge hunk of foam on top the drivers side head. Input?
Bump
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:32 PM   #5053
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So I've been reading the hoopla about the temp gauges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. 1. I'm quite sure these gauges aren't meant to be as accurate as everyone here thinks they should be.
That is a good question. I have seen gauges for liquid oxygen that are thousands of dollars each have accuracy only within 5-10% of the real number. However those are analog gauges. I believe the temperature gauges in our JKs take a digital input from the coolant temperature sensor so the accuracy should be better than an analog gauge. Still the temp gauge is only meant to give us a basic visual on the engine temp. The gauge does work, I did a test on a long hill with the JK in gear. I coasted down the hill without giving it any gas, the temp gauge did go down.

Some scan tools can get an exact engine temperature down to the degree when hooked up to the OBD. I wonder how many temp sensors there are and if there is one on each head. I have a decent scan tool that hooks up to a laptop so I may do a little more investigating.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:35 PM   #5054
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That is a good question. I have seen gauges for liquid oxygen that are thousands of dollars each have accuracy only within 5-10% of the real number. However those are analog gauges. I believe the temperature gauges in our JKs take a digital input from the coolant temperature sensor so the accuracy should be better than an analog gauge. Still the temp gauge is only meant to give us a basic visual on the engine temp. The gauge does work, I did a test on a long hill with the JK in gear. I coasted down the hill without giving it any gas, the temp gauge did go down.

Some scan tools can get an exact engine temperature down to the degree when hooked up to the OBD. I wonder how many temp sensors there are and if there is one on each head. I have a decent scan tool that hooks up to a laptop so I may do a little more investigating.
Let me know
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:08 PM   #5055
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No, there is no clear pattern. You can have no ticking and still throw a CEL code. Best to not worry and drive it as you normally do.
Did not know about the check engine light part, the answers a lot of my question. Thanks a lot
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:18 PM   #5056
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I am somewhat encouraged by the fact that there have been no more posts about AC heads failing.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:37 PM   #5057
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I am somewhat encouraged by the fact that there have been no more posts about AC heads failing.
I thought someone had an issue but I could be wrong. My boss has a 2013 grand Cherokee Overland with AC heads and he has a ticking noise just like my 2012 wrangler does. It was a low tick so I never thought mine had an issue until it threw the CEL last Thursday. mine has 24000 miles on it and his 3000 miles.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:40 PM   #5058
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I am somewhat encouraged by the fact that there have been no more posts about AC heads failing.
Yeah, that's better than having a lot of failures but it could mean that there has been an improvement that will make the heads last longer but still fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles.

It is going to be pure speculation unless Chrysler makes an official announcement about the problem that goes far beyond the pathetic statement they made originally about a combination of factors like driving conditions and fuel quality contributing to the problem.

It looks to me like if they really had a fix they would come out and say so. This has to be hurting sales.

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Old 06-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #5059
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Originally Posted by rox-n-mud View Post
So I've been reading the hoopla about the temp gauges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. 1. I'm quite sure these gauges aren't meant to be as accurate as everyone here thinks they should be. 2. These engines should all be running about the same temp if they all have the same thermostat. 3. If these engines can't cool off and the thermostat never closes we'd be getting overheat/boil over issues. Nonetheless I'm a believer in a cooler engine regardless, I've removed the top engine cowl, the rear weather strip on the hood(jury is out on rainwater) and thinking about removing the front weather strip that's double sided taped to the grill ( again, rain water and bugs). Id also love to remove that huge hunk of foam on top the drivers side head. Input?
Bump
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:59 PM   #5060
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Thermostat never closes? Did you mean never opens?
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:13 PM   #5061
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Thermostat never closes? Did you mean never opens?
Thermostat would closed but not stay closed very long when a motor is running hot. The cool coolant gets released from the radiator into the motor, term closes, motor heats the coolant, opens the therm again lets the hot coolant into the radiator and the cycle starts again. If conditions warrant and the coolant in the motor heats, opens the therm but the coolant in the radiator hasn't been able to cool down sufficiently you start approaching an over heat stage, it just can't keep up.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:44 PM   #5062
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With the engine at operating temp, the thermostat should never completely close, especially with the thermostat in the upper hose. In sub zero cold it may partially close and in hot weather it will never close at all.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:52 PM   #5063
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With the engine at operating temp, the thermostat should never completely close, especially with the thermostat in the upper hose. In sub zero cold it may partially close and in hot weather it will never close at all.
It does close.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:58 PM   #5064
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My 2012 warms up so fast (in the sense that it starts putting out good heat through the air system within about 1 minute of starting in near freezing temps) the thermostat must close and stay closed for a while.....
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #5065
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My 2012 warms up so fast (in the sense that it starts putting out good heat through the air system within about 1 minute of starting in near freezing temps) the thermostat must close and stay closed for a while.....
Therm is totally closed at startup. Mines fast too, they must put a small closed loop in the system to get heat in the cab quick, it's nice.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:08 PM   #5066
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It does close.
With the engine cold and first started, the t-stat is closed. Coolant circulates thru the block and heater core only. Once the engine warms up to operating temp and the thermostat opens it doesn't close until the engine is shutoff and cools down. But you don't have to take my word for it and it isn't worth arguing about.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:19 PM   #5067
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:33 PM   #5068
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:30 AM   #5069
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:18 AM   #5070
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Try wearing a cup next time and it won't hurt you so much. I guess you missed the word "partially".

BTW that was strike three. Have a seat on the bench. LOL

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