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Old 05-19-2010, 09:24 PM   #1
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Upgraded Rubicon springs/shocks on my Sahara

Mine: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2DR w Hard top
Donor: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited w Hard top

My spring codes: 14/15/55
New spring codes: 18/18/58

RESULTS

Job duration: 1 hour 45 mins, replaced all springs and shocks and steering stabilizer.

4 shocks + 1 steering stabilizer + 4 springs. Arrived cherry as you can see. This Rubicon was driven from the dealer to the shop directly, and these are 82 mile take-offs:





2 Rubicon front springs, both 18's:



2 Rubicon rear springs, both 58's:



Comparing the front spring. Barely any taller, maybe a 1/2 coil. Looks like the same thickness to me:



Front spring installed, cakewalk. When you disconnect everything properly, the springs just fall out:



Front shock part numbers. Sahara: 52126711AD/Rubicon: 52126712AD



Same length, nothing really difference in appearance:



Another pic comparing the front springs:


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Old 05-19-2010, 09:24 PM   #2
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CHECK OUT the difference in steering stabilizers:



The Rubicon stabilizer HAS to go in this direction. In the next pic you will see why. Notice one side of the shock body is a lot bigger:



The thin side has just enough clearance here. The thick body side would have rubbed on that bracket:



Rear shock comparo. Sahara: 52126751AC/Rubicon: 52126752AC



Comparing rear springs, again, maybe a 1/2 coil difference in height, not much:



HEIGHT RESULTS!! 3/4" lift in front, 1" lift in rear.



The lift height is just what I wanted, so I hope I like the ride. If I dont, I will take all this off, go back to my Sahara springs/shocks, and get a Teraflex leveling kit for a guaranteed 1" lift.

I am pleasantly surprised with the first drive. Its not too rough at all. Lot better than I was expecting. I'll test a couple more days but I do think i'll be keeping these in. Can't really tell the difference in a 3/4" lift when driving of course, so thats not too exciting. I may look into the Terflex leveling next if I want just a tad more. I could go a tiny bit higher while keeping these tires.

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Old 05-19-2010, 09:30 PM   #3
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I've been told if you have the tow package you have the same springs as the Rubi and only need to change shocks. True??
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hig4s View Post
I've been told if you have the tow package you have the same springs as the Rubi and only need to change shocks. True??
no. the 4 door springs are very different than the 2 door springs. you need to get your codes off your springs to see if an upgrade will be worth it.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hig4s View Post
I've been told if you have the tow package you have the same springs as the Rubi and only need to change shocks. True??
Possibly. An informal survey was done on another forum and the results showed that there is no hard and fast rule regarding which springs were in which vehicle.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plac View Post
CHECK OUT the difference in steering stabilizers:



The Rubicon stabilizer HAS to go in this direction. In the next pic you will see why. Notice one side of the shock body is a lot bigger:



The thin side has just enough clearance here. The thick body side would have rubbed on that bracket:



Rear shock comparo. Sahara: 52126751AC/Rubicon: 52126752AC



Comparing rear springs, again, maybe a 1/2 coil difference in height, not much:



HEIGHT RESULTS!! 3/4" lift in front, 1" lift in rear.



The lift height is just what I wanted, so I hope I like the ride. If I dont, I will take all this off, go back to my Sahara springs/shocks, and get a Teraflex leveling kit for a guaranteed 1" lift.

I am pleasantly surprised with the first drive. Its not too rough at all. Lot better than I was expecting. I'll test a couple more days but I do think i'll be keeping these in. Can't really tell the difference in a 3/4" lift when driving of course, so thats not too exciting. I may look into the Terflex leveling next if I want just a tad more. I could go a tiny bit higher while keeping these tires.
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. Did you notice a difference when compressing the shocks by hand? I changed out my stock shocks with aftermarket gas shocks and there was a huge difference. The stock shocks were very easy to compress by hand, while I could barely move the Bilsteins, which made them a bear to install.

It looks like your jack is under the axle. Did you use jack stands on the frame as well? What exactly did you have to unbolt to get the springs to fall out? You said the front spring install was a "cakewalk", what about the rear?

Just a note to anyone thinking about the SS. The 2010 SS is beefed up on all Wranglers, not just the Rubicon.

I have been considering this for a while. Not necessarily to gain height, but to just have the "best" springs.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:09 AM   #7
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Looks like that was a fun few hours of wrenching. Cool mod.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:39 AM   #8
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To the OP how much did all of this run you? I'm going to be getting new tires on monday and getting rid of the stock pieces of garbage. I'm planning on going up a few sizes and a little more lift never hurt.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. Did you notice a difference when compressing the shocks by hand? I changed out my stock shocks with aftermarket gas shocks and there was a huge difference. The stock shocks were very easy to compress by hand, while I could barely move the Bilsteins, which made them a bear to install.

It looks like your jack is under the axle. Did you use jack stands on the frame as well? What exactly did you have to unbolt to get the springs to fall out? You said the front spring install was a "cakewalk", what about the rear?

Just a note to anyone thinking about the SS. The 2010 SS is beefed up on all Wranglers, not just the Rubicon.

I have been considering this for a while. Not necessarily to gain height, but to just have the "best" springs.
No difference in shocks by hand. Mine only had 18k miles anyway, so it was basically new for new. I'm sure Bilsteins would be stiffer, i've had a few of those.

I most definitely started with jack stands under the frame. You need a real tall jack to do that, I have an "SUV" jack which has the removable 4-6" height extension.

You unbolt the wheels (obviously), lower shock mount, lower sway bar mount. I usually undo the brake line bracket also to make sure you dont accidentally put pressure on your lines. (10mm). You do one front side at a time with another jack. You support it while you unbolt everything above. If you find just the right height you can pull the bolts out w 2 fingers.

Rear is even easier, because you do both sides at same time. You put jack under the middle, but make sure it can drop down until it STOPS. Like all the way. To be safe with that you unbolt the lower shock, lower swar bar link after shock is out of the way, then also the brake line bracket. ADditionally, i pull out 1 snap out of the wire loom in the brake area to give extra room for the wiring to droop. Then you lower your center jack slowly watching the brake lines and wire loom on each side. It should droop FULLY without any issue or stretching. IF it doesnt drop far enough your jack may not be going low enough to let it.

Good to know the steering stabilizer info. I thought I got lucky. Well, I suppose I did, since these are 2010 take-offs anyway.

I put these on really for the same reason. To have the "best" plus gain a small increase as noted. These are stiffer than non-Rubicon springs, but only slightly. I have less body roll it seems.

When I look at this pic, it looks like the new spring is thicker for sure:

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Old 05-20-2010, 07:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger View Post
Looks like that was a fun few hours of wrenching. Cool mod.
ah just 1.5 hours not including pulling out all my tools. but i'd done a teraflex job before so i was familiar. first time, maybe 2-2.5 hours.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:45 AM   #11
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To the OP how much did all of this run you? I'm going to be getting new tires on monday and getting rid of the stock pieces of garbage. I'm planning on going up a few sizes and a little more lift never hurt.
i got a sick deal (in my eyes.) Ebay. So keep your eyes out.

This dude:
http://stores.ebay.com/JPMs-Garage

4 springs $80 (+$30 shipping)
5 shocks $80 (+$22 shipping)
$212 to my doorstep

The only reason im super stoked is because all this had 82 miles on it. You might be able to find it for half the price somewhere, but not with that amount of miles on it.. this is sort of like getting a brand new Jeep again.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:11 AM   #12
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FRONT
Shock Absorber Lower Nut 56 ft. lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut 75 ft. lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Bolt 75 ft. lbs.

REAR
Shock Absorber Lower Nut 56 ft. lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link Nut/Bolt 75 ft. lbs.
Stabilizer Bar to Link Nut 66 ft. lbs.
Track Bar Frame Bracket Nut 125 ft. lbs.
Track Bar Axle Bracket Bolt 125 ft. lbs.

Wheel Lug Nuts 85-125 ft. lbs.
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:03 AM   #13
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FIXED PICS, couldnt edit the original post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plac View Post
Mine: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2DR w Hard top
Donor: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited w Hard top

My spring codes: 14/15/55
New spring codes: 18/18/58

RESULTS

Job duration: 1 hour 45 mins, replaced all springs and shocks and steering stabilizer.

4 shocks + 1 steering stabilizer + 4 springs. Arrived cherry as you can see. This Rubicon was driven from the dealer to the shop directly, and these are 82 mile take-offs:





2 Rubicon front springs, both 18's:



2 Rubicon rear springs, both 58's:



Comparing the front spring. Barely any taller, maybe a 1/2 coil. Looks like the same thickness to me:



Front spring installed, cakewalk. When you disconnect everything properly, the springs just fall out:



Front shock part numbers. Sahara: 52126711AD/Rubicon: 52126712AD



Same length, nothing really difference in appearance:



Another pic comparing the front springs:

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Old 11-04-2013, 07:06 AM   #14
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Fixed pics part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by plac View Post
check out the difference in steering stabilizers:



the rubicon stabilizer has to go in this direction. In the next pic you will see why. Notice one side of the shock body is a lot bigger:



the thin side has just enough clearance here. The thick body side would have rubbed on that bracket:



rear shock comparo. Sahara: 52126751ac/rubicon: 52126752ac



comparing rear springs, again, maybe a 1/2 coil difference in height, not much:



height results!! 3/4" lift in front, 1" lift in rear.



the lift height is just what i wanted, so i hope i like the ride. If i dont, i will take all this off, go back to my sahara springs/shocks, and get a teraflex leveling kit for a guaranteed 1" lift.

I am pleasantly surprised with the first drive. Its not too rough at all. Lot better than i was expecting. I'll test a couple more days but i do think i'll be keeping these in. Can't really tell the difference in a 3/4" lift when driving of course, so thats not too exciting. I may look into the terflex leveling next if i want just a tad more. I could go a tiny bit higher while keeping these tires.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:44 PM   #15
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wow, thats some dedication to come back 3 years later and fix those pics.

I have 52126317AC's up front now, would going to the 18AC's make any difference at all in my ride height?

Thanks
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:45 PM   #16
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ha... well someone PM'd me and asked for it.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cringer View Post
wow, thats some dedication to come back 3 years later and fix those pics.

I have 52126317AC's up front now, would going to the 18AC's make any difference at all in my ride height?

Thanks
Not enough to make it worth the trouble.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:49 PM   #18
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ya.. 1 step isnt worth the trouble.. 2 isnt really either.. you need a 3 step increase to make it worth your while.

although.. you can find the 4 piece spring kits on ebay for like $120 shipped.. thats pretty cheap. even if you only get a 1/2" lift. and you retain nice oem fit.

after i do this, i buy the JKS lower control arm kit to fix the caster. find my video on that under "LastHumansGarage" on youtube.

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