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Old 09-15-2013, 04:05 PM   #1
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water fording question

I recently went off roading with a few friends. I have a 2013 unlimited with new rims and tires (285/70, which I believe are 32 or 33 inches and 17 inch rims). I drove through water for the first time. Along with me, many other trucks and Jeeps went through the water. I am concerned that I may have for a brief time exceeded the 30" limit. I am also concerned that i messed something up by not switching to 4 Low, as I had my Jeep in 4 High the entire time. The Jeep doesn't seem to be running any different since going through the water last night. I didn't drive very fast through the water. I also opened my intake where the air cleaner is to check for any mud or sloppy water and it was fine. I'm not sure if my breathers could have been affected, or anything from not switching to 4Low. I also did not shift gears or use my clutch while in the water (Manual Tranny).

I love this site and know you guys are much more knowledgeable about this kind of thing. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 PM   #2
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Changing fluids would be cheap insurance just in case.
Extend your breathers, super easy:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ext...se-185089.html

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Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 PM   #3
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I did the same thing last night, in fact I had water coming up over my hood (my left side hit a rut, luckily my right side stayed above water)..

I don't have a snorkel - looking back it was a terrible decision

But, and I'll need confirmation here, I think you are fine as long as you didn't sit in it for an extended period of time - on most vehicles it is wise to change the front and rear diff oil after fording water - or spending a long time submerged - but IDK what Jeep recommends for the JK (this was on my discovery that I read that in the owners manual)

I was in 4hi and forgot to turn off my ESC so it was cutting the throttle and I assumed it was taking in water and losing power and I almost crapped myself - but I crawled out of the pond and everything was good - in fact I've driven about 50 miles and everything sounds great and runs fine.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:20 PM   #4
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Glad ur enjoying ur rig!
Don't sweat a thing. At the worst, my may have moisture inside ur diffs if the water was above the top of the pumpkins. If so, just grab 4 qts of fluid and some high temp silicone and have a quick change. If u plan on more fording, u might want to add some breather extensions that u can find with a search on here. Also, if u plan on this often, add a spark plug wrench and an extra air filter to ur "kit." Filter in case u get urs saturated, and the socket in case u stall under water. Turn off (or it may have stalled) and pull all plugs to drain any water from cyls. Put back in and continue venture!
Troy
Btw, u can use 4 hi, 4lo, or 2hi...doesn't hurt a thing.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgjason View Post
Changing fluids would be cheap insurance just in case.
Extend your breathers, super easy:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ext...se-185089.html
X2 extend the breather hoses for axles and transfer case they are very low and often disconnected from the axle as sometimes they just are not connected very well. As for 4 lo... If you didn't need 4 WD for traction you could have done the same thing in 2WD doesn't matter unless you end up needing the traction so you didn't hurt anything by not being in 4Lo.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:11 PM   #6
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you guys are the best, how exactly do i change the fluid in the front and rear? I'm not the best mechanic and don't want to mess anything up. I will probably never do it again, it has me so paranoid. If I drive it a day before I change the fluid, will this be bad? I work 13 hours a day for the next 4 days, and don't have much spare time. I also notice it has a vibrating noise coming from the drive train or differential (not sure if thats the proper name), but it always kinda had noises coming from there.
If I did exceed the 30" it was only for a few seconds, but now every noise has me nervous.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:21 PM   #7
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its fine, I have had water above my pedals on a few occasions.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodabengal View Post
you guys are the best, how exactly do i change the fluid in the front and rear? I'm not the best mechanic and don't want to mess anything up. I will probably never do it again, it has me so paranoid. If I drive it a day before I change the fluid, will this be bad? I work 13 hours a day for the next 4 days, and don't have much spare time. I also notice it has a vibrating noise coming from the drive train or differential (not sure if thats the proper name), but it always kinda had noises coming from there.
If I did exceed the 30" it was only for a few seconds, but now every noise has me nervous.
Guessing since you only did it once that probably not too much water got in there but hard to say. If your not driving a lot it will probably be ok but when water mixes with the diff fluid it does not lub as well so I would not let it go for long. You will know if you got water in the diffs when you change the fluid as it will be a grey or milky color. If the fluid is still dark you didn't get water in the diffs. Hope that helps.
A little advise, just because people drive theirs and all seems fine doesn't mean it is. I would check mine after something like this if I didn't have extended breathers.
Edit: Guessing you could do a search on changing the diff fluid. The diffs have drain bolts on the bottom of the diff you should be able to see them. Drain the fluid if it is dark just refill if it is not dark I would pull the cover and spray clean reseal then fill.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:19 PM   #9
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Not a huge rush, even if u got water inside diffs. Just get the fluid and change it next time ur off. Will take an inexperienced person maybe 2-3 hours total.
1- remove cover bolts.
2- tap with hammer on seams pretty hard to break free...do NoT use a prybar. Be ready with a tub to catch oil!
3- let drain into pan.
4- clean mating surfaces with a knife or something...most important step btw.
5- clean with brake fluid (mating surfaces).
6- put a continuous bead of high temp gasket maker around whole mating surface of cover.
7- put on and torque bolts. Cant remember torque. Either search, or ask and I will look it up when I get home. (35ft lbs??)
8- pull plug on cover and fill until oil comes out...its full.
9- let sit for an hour while u drink a beer and gloat to wife and kids.
10- find another puddle!
Good luck.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getnoff View Post
Not a huge rush, even if u got water inside diffs. Just get the fluid and change it next time ur off. Will take an inexperienced person maybe 2-3 hours total.
1- remove cover bolts.
2- tap with hammer on seams pretty hard to break free...do NoT use a prybar. Be ready with a tub to catch oil!
3- let drain into pan.
4- clean mating surfaces with a knife or something...most important step btw.
5- clean with brake fluid (mating surfaces).
6- put a continuous bead of high temp gasket maker around whole mating surface of cover.
7- put on and torque bolts. Cant remember torque. Either search, or ask and I will look it up when I get home. (35ft lbs??)
8- pull plug on cover and fill until oil comes out...its full.
9- let sit for an hour while u drink a beer and gloat to wife and kids.
10- find another puddle!
Good luck.
Troy
I would only recommend the above if the fluid is off color as you don't have to reomve the cover unless it is already leaking or you really need to clean it out. I.e if you got water in the diffs The diffs have a drain bolt on the bottom of the diffs I don't remember it always being this way but I know on my 2012's and now my 2013 it is the case.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:29 PM   #11
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Sorry to be off topic abit, today i went wheeling for basically the first time and went up a steep embankment in 2wd and lost all power and stalled it. Started it back up into 4hi and revved to get up the hill and the clutch just smoked up and stunk for awhile. Stink is gone now.
Anyone have trouble getting up hills without smoking the clutch?
I should of been in 4lo. Hope i didnt hurt it any...
3.21 gears....
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:51 PM   #12
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DIFF FLUID CHANGE
I would just drain and fill without removing the cover unless its really milky, just to make things easier. If you do open the cover for a good cleaning I would check out "lube locker" gasket to make life a bit easier. I haven't used it but have heard good things except for them recommending to over torque the bolts to 35ft/lbs were they tend to snap. 25ft/lbs is what you want. It's a bit pricy, but is reusable.

Here is a write-up I used to change mine. http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?7...hange-Write-Up

I did a video that's not the greatest but will give you an idea what your up against.
http://youtu.be/0Q9vrFv-bKI
It's not all that hard, but I would recommend a pump vs a pour spout for the front diff. Also safety glasses are a good idea so dirt doesn't fall on your eye.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeyfoster8 View Post
Sorry to be off topic abit, today i went wheeling for basically the first time and went up a steep embankment in 2wd and lost all power and stalled it. Started it back up into 4hi and revved to get up the hill and the clutch just smoked up and stunk for awhile. Stink is gone now.
Anyone have trouble getting up hills without smoking the clutch?
I should of been in 4lo. Hope i didnt hurt it any...
3.21 gears....
your transfer case's hi gear is designed for 60+ kind of speeds, if you are on dirt there is absolutely no reason to not be in 4 low. when we go wheeling we arrive at the location, put it in low, and it stays there until we leave. you are just making it harder on your jeep for no reason!

the only time 4h actually comes in handy would be way up north where some commutes involve snow covered highways.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeyfoster8 View Post
Sorry to be off topic abit, today i went wheeling for basically the first time and went up a steep embankment in 2wd and lost all power and stalled it. Started it back up into 4hi and revved to get up the hill and the clutch just smoked up and stunk for awhile. Stink is gone now.
Anyone have trouble getting up hills without smoking the clutch?
I should of been in 4lo. Hope i didnt hurt it any...
3.21 gears....
That is a pretty big stretch off topic. I would start up a new thread next time. If your off road (less than 25mph) always use 4-low. Make sure your stopped or going less than 5mph to engage/disengage with it in N. I liked stopped but you may have to move a foot on occasion to get it to drop in. When in 4-low you should get off the clutch as fast as possible. It drives more like a tractor where you don't need to gas it much if at all to get going. When it's moving you can even use a bit of break and keep moving, so there is not much reason to feather the clutch.(SIDE NOTES Use 1st or 2nd down steep inclines vs breaks. Look into disconnecting your swaybar links for a smoother off-road ride and more traction). As an added bonus you can start it without clutching in 4-low if you get stuck in some water. When stalled you can put it in R if needed.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:35 AM   #15
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Sorry if this is also a bit off topic, but when I make a grilled cheese sammy, is it ok to use two heals if I am out of bread?
Troy





J/k!!!
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:48 AM   #16
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LOL

Just not boot heels. The toe cheese will smell like burnt clutch.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:11 PM   #17
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Thanks to everyones help I was able to change the oil in the front and rear Differentials very easily. It has a slight milky look to it, but i'm not sure what to look for as far as milky oil. Should I worry about the transfer case or tranny fluid??

Thanks again for all the help everyone, It's great to have such a good group to look to for help
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:03 PM   #18
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May as well check them all if it was a bit milky.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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Changed all my fluids....the Mopar stuff was expensive. Was feeling all good about myself, and read about some people running the Jeep, and rechanging the fluids to flush the system. Is this necessary? It cost big $$$ to change the fluid, hoping I don't need to rechange in 500 miles or something???

Any thoughts? And, thanks again for all the help.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:47 PM   #20
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Keep an eye on it for a few weeks. If everything looks good I wouldn't worry, if it gets milky again you probably need a good flush as some contaminated fluid was still in the system somewhere.

After you have that taken care of, extend the breathers so you don't have an issue in water so easily.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:10 PM   #21
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