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Old 10-16-2013, 10:29 AM   #31
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Does anyone know if traditional carnuba wax actually protects at all? From UV or crap (like bird shit, sap, salt, etc)?

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Old 10-16-2013, 10:36 AM   #32
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I don't know guys, a new car should not need a clay bar, polish and a wax.

Knock yourselves out though.

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Old 10-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by RaiderRUBICON View Post
I don't know guys, a new car should not need a clay bar, polish and a wax.

Knock yourselves out though.
I mean we don't *need* Jeeps, but we have them anyways.
That doesn't seem like a good argument not to do it. :P

I'd really like to hear a legitimate case of someone screwing their paint up by hand waxing the day they got a new car.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:45 AM   #34
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I don't know guys, a new car should not need a clay bar, polish and a wax.

Knock yourselves out though.
Very untrue with respect to your clay bar comment.

You can clay bar on monday and have sediment embedded in the clear coat by Tuesday. Take a new vehicle from the dealer, clay bar a strip across the hood and rub your hand across the clayed and un-clayed sections. NOTICEABLE.

I agree with the polishing comment. Polishing will basically remove swirls that occur over time from washing, waxing and brushing against a vehicle while dust and dirt are present. Polishing removes those micro scratches prior to sealing/waxing. Not too many or enough of those present on a new surface to justify the effort.

I HIGHLY recommend claying a new vehicle and waxing/sealing after claying.

Claying removes surface impurities
Polishing removes micro and hairline scratches and swirls
Sealing/Waxing protects the surface
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:47 AM   #35
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Did my 2010 and my 2012 both using Turtle Ice Premium car care. My '12 was done 2 days after I picked it up from the dealer. I use this on all surfaces, plastic, metal, rubber, inside and out, no white residue, no streaks, no fading, can be used in direct sunlight. Contains some kind of polymers. Very easy to use. It almost seems to repel dust and sure makes my time at the car wash shorter. All good.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:47 AM   #36
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Very untrue with respect to your clay bar comment.

You can clay bar on monday and have sediment embedded in the clear coat by Tuesday. Take a new vehicle from the dealer, clay bar a strip across the hood and rub your hand across the clayed and un-clayed sections. NOTICEABLE.

I agree with the polishing comment. Polishing will basically remove swirls that occur over time from washing, waxing and brushing against a vehicle while dust and dirt are present. Polishing removes those micro scratches prior to sealing/waxing. Not too many or enough of those present on a new surface to justify the effort.

I HIGHLY recommend claying a new vehicle and waxing/sealing after claying.

Claying removes surface impurities
Polishing removes micro and hairline scratches and swirls
Sealing/Waxing protects the surface
I would agree that the polishing really did nothing for me. The paint felt great after clay baring and waxing though. So this makes sense with my experience.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #37
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Did my 2010 and my 2012 both using Turtle Ice Premium car care. My '12 was done 2 days after I picked it up from the dealer. I use this on all surfaces, plastic, metal, rubber, inside and out, no white residue, no streaks, no fading, can be used in direct sunlight. Contains some kind of polymers. Very easy to use. It almost seems to repel dust and sure makes my time at the car wash shorter. All good.
So your jeep doesn't look like an ice cream sundae with chocolate melting all off of it?

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Old 10-16-2013, 01:36 PM   #38
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Lots of good information here... When I get a new car, I usually:

- Wash
- Clay
- Wash again
- Dry
- Polish
- Seal
- Wax Topper

For the first wash, use something like Dawn dish detergent. This will help remove all the silicone/shitty waxes that the dealer used.

Then clay while wet (even soapy if you want). This will keep the clay lubricated)

Wash the car again. Use dawn in a NEW BUCKET OF WATER!!!

Dry with a leaf blower, then towel off.

Polish with the polish of your choice. (too many to choose from, and everyone likes what they use)

Seal with a polymer sealant system. Zaino and Klasse are my favs, but there are so many others.

Top the sealant with a carnauba wax topper if the sealant can handle it. Z and Klasse can handle it, but I usually use S100 wax, which is very soft, and easy on the sealants. Goes on like butter, just wipe on, wipe off...

BTW - Don't use Dawn once you have polished, sealed, waxed. It will eat it right off. Use a car wash soap, preferably one that works well with your sealant...

Try to avoid the stuff from your local auto parts stores. It's cheap for a reason. Griots Garage makes quality stuff, and check out http://autopia.org for a great detailing forum to get more ideas of what people are using...
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:48 PM   #39
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I would agree that the polishing really did nothing for me. The paint felt great after clay baring and waxing though. So this makes sense with my experience.

Clay is important for new cars, sometimes they have rail dust on them which the clay does a great job removing. Dawn is a good soap for the first wax or to remove wax as mentioned by the poster above me.

The dealer typically does a half ass detail job, or runs it through a car wash, and you want the junk they use off. I tell the dealer not to detail the vehicle, just PDI it, gas it, and leave the detailing to me. Then we both walk around the vehicle on delivery to be sure there's nothing wrong with it. The new car department makes a few more $$ and I don't have to worry about someone detailing it who doesn't care, or puts lousy products on it.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:58 PM   #40
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I bought a car once that still had the cosmoline on it. I clayed 2 times before I got all the sticky stuff off the car and out of the crevices...
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #41
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I bought a car once that still had the cosmoline on it. I clayed 2 times before I got all the sticky stuff off the car and out of the crevices...
Wow! I like the method you use!
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:18 PM   #42
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Wow! I like the method you use!
They peeled the cover off, and most of the goo... There was still tons of it though. but no scratches!!!!
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:12 PM   #43
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My favorite tool in the detail arsenal...the foam cannon. Great for getting dirt/sand/mud loosened off without scratching the paint.


Untitled by zerind, on Flickr
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:23 PM   #44
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Great thread...thanks everyone. Waiting anxiously for my new Jeep to arrive. I work hard to take care of my vehicles to make 'em last and learned a few things here. Will order up some new products so they are here on delivery day!
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:37 PM   #45
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My favorite tool in the detail arsenal...the foam cannon. Great for getting dirt/sand/mud loosened off without scratching the paint.


Untitled by zerind, on Flickr
I agree, all the neighborhood kids come out when I break out the foam cannon just to watch.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:45 PM   #46
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I did it by hand actually, so that's good to hear. I did a clay bar, ultimate polish, and ultimate wax (meguiars) all by hand.

Really sad to hear about the Honda. What ended up happening with it? How long did it take for the issues to show up? What year was it? Sorry for all the ?'s.

I did mine 2 days ago, and haven't noticed any swirls at all in my paint.
It started to appear a few days after. It started with a little hair line "crack" in the clear coat then spider webbed out. It was a 2008 honda civic. I've always used my porter cable on my mustangs, and never had a problem. When we sold the car it had got pretty bad on the roof. You could take a finger nail and peal it back. The hood and fenders were painted under honda's paint warranty.

I really think you are fine.

EDIT: But if you want to get into DIY detailing. Autogeek has some great writeups and equipment to get you started.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:05 PM   #47
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I am a huge fan of Opti-Coat, I ended up stripping and claybarring my Jeep, alcoholing the panels, then Opti-Coat. I've had a few run-ins with some Arizona pinstriping, only affects the hard top, no scratches in the paint so far!
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:33 PM   #48
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I plan to have a local detail shop near me clay bar it and liquid glass it in the near future. First things first, 2.5" lift and BFG KM2s!

The shop I go to does a good job and is reasonably priced. The detailer has years of experience.




I'm a fan of liquid glass products. They seem to work well and last a long time from my experience.

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