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Old 03-31-2012, 12:01 PM   #1
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Weight-Bearing Capability of Hardtop

Will the hardtop (with no added rack system) support a 40lb canoe on foam blocks, plus the added weight of pressure from tie downs?

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Old 03-31-2012, 01:01 PM   #2
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PS: Yes, I read the manual. It says that the hardtop is not load-bearing. But it also says that the hardtop was designed to keep out the elements.

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Old 03-31-2012, 01:06 PM   #3
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We'll send us pics either way if it cracks...
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:28 PM   #4
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Thats interesting-


Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 View Post
Will the hardtop (with no added rack system) support a 40lb canoe on foam blocks, plus the added weight of pressure from tie downs?
Where do you plan to "tieit down" for stability ??

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Old 03-31-2012, 01:33 PM   #5
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Edit- i see you have a 2012

I am sure the foam blocks would help distribute the weight but it would depend where you have to place the foam blocks on the hard top. And where you place the foam blocks depends on curvature and length of canoe. The more blocks the better the weight would be distributed.

Also. How far are you wanting to drive and on what condition of roads and speed of roads. All those things are going to play a role in how tight you have to tie it down, how much it bounces, etc.

How many doors? Length of canoe?

It may be worth investing in a bar system for the back end.

Do you have a hitch on the jeep? I would think a t-support bar at the back and foam blocks at the windshield would suffice.

I am by no means an expert in engineering and no warranty is supplied with my thoughts.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post

Where do you plan to "tieit down" for stability ??

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I was going to throw some rope across the top and then hold onto the ends while driving.

Ratchet straps fore and aft, hooking onto the frame underneath near the bumpers. Maybe straps across the top and into the cabin through open doors. Working on a budget, here.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
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How far are you wanting to drive and on what condition of roads and speed of roads.

What year jeep and how many doors? Length of canoe?

Do you have a hitch on the jeep? I would think a t-support bar at the back and foam blocks at the windshield would suffice.
-Mostly highway ~ 60mph.

-Jeep specs in my signature / canoe length = 14'

-Have a hitch. Durn good idea.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0

-Mostly highway ~ 60mph.

-Jeep specs in my signature / canoe length = 14'

-Have a hitch. Durn good idea.
I ha signatures turned off on my iPhone app.

I would think at highway speeds you don't want to reply just on hard top. A canoe is so open and with the relatively flat sides there is going to be a lot of force applied to the canoe in driving not to mention wind force passing or getting passed by big trucks and potential cross winds.

If it was a kayak I would say it maybe ok. But that open cockpit of a 14 foot canoe can catch wind pretty bad especially since you have a shorter hard top on your two door. When that wind gets caught under the boat it will likely push down more on the hard top.

Maybe a used t-support bar on Craig's list. Not sure if a pickup truck support bar would be tall enough but perhaps. That increases your options on finding one on the cheap!
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:54 PM   #9
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You're taking a hellofa chance--

I have a rack and I carry/portal lots, with no door/gate/window interference-

If you're gonna doit ONE TIME--you can figure outta way to doit, but

If this is gonna be a summer thing--GETTA RACK !!

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Old 03-31-2012, 02:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfish29 View Post
I ha signatures turned off on my iPhone app.

I would think at highway speeds you don't want to reply just on hard top. A canoe is so open and with the relatively flat sides there is going to be a lot of force applied to the canoe in driving not to mention wind force passing or getting passed by big trucks and potential cross winds.

If it was a kayak I would say it maybe ok. But that open cockpit of a 14 foot canoe can catch wind pretty bad especially since you have a shorter hard top on your two door. When that wind gets caught under the boat it will likely push down more on the hard top.

Maybe a used t-support bar on Craig's list. Not sure if a pickup truck support bar would be tall enough but perhaps. That increases your options on finding one on the cheap!
Gotcha, good advice. Not chancing it. Maybe with a T and blocks up front.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:45 PM   #11
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No. Chances are high that it will crack the top. It will end up on the highway or through someone's windshield if it's not properly tied down on a rack.
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:23 PM   #12
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The front of the roof is sitting flush on the windshield, which is bolstered by the roll-bar cross members. Just shore up the space between the rollbar/sound bar and the roof inside. That would take any amount of weight the roll bar can.
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:27 PM   #13
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I knelt and sat on my hardtop while installing the hoist on my garage ceiling. If 210lbs over <1sqft doesn't crush the top, I can't see how ~40lbs spread across two 1sqft foam blocks would do it, no matter how tightly one pulls the straps.

Not saying I recommend crawling around on one's hard top. That was my decision, my risk, and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it again given the choice. I'm just surprised at how delicate and fragile people seem to think the tops are.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:17 AM   #14
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Gobi makes a light bar that is sold independently. It is attached to the windshield bolts the way that racks tend to attach, and gives you a bar for lights over the windshield from one side to the other (very solid). Use one of those, and a T on the hitch, and you can make that a permanent solution. You also get a light bar out of it! And you can rest assured that it'll be safe at any reasonable speed and road condition.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:02 AM   #15
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It says that the hardtop is not load-bearing.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBrito View Post
Gobi makes a light bar that is sold independently. It is attached to the windshield bolts the way that racks tend to attach, and gives you a bar for lights over the windshield from one side to the other (very solid). Use one of those, and a T on the hitch, and you can make that a permanent solution. You also get a light bar out of it! And you can rest assured that it'll be safe at any reasonable speed and road condition.
Just an FYI it's the exact same light bar they use for the racks. I've had a few customers order the light bar from us and then get the rest of the rack later actually. It's not a bad idea, get the light bar in the winter and spend money on lights etc. then get the rest of the rack in the summer after a nice tax return or something.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:08 AM   #17
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I'm not saying it's smart, but i've seen people remove the front freedom panels, climb up through the hole, and sit on the back part of the hard top. Was a pair of girls that probably added up to 240lbs between them. I thought for sure they'd end up in the back seat amid a pile of broken fiberglass, but they've done it a number of times now with no damage.

The top is tougher than it looks.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.L.
I'm not saying it's smart, but i've seen people remove the front freedom panels, climb up through the hole, and sit on the back part of the hard top. Was a pair of girls that probably added up to 240lbs between them. I thought for sure they'd end up in the back seat amid a pile of broken fiberglass, but they've done it a number of times now with no damage.

The top is tougher than it looks.
Fiberglass is plenty strong.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:30 AM   #19
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YUP, it is, but


Quote:
Originally Posted by Phobos View Post
Fiberglass is plenty strong.
The JK hardtop ain't fiberglass !

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Old 04-01-2012, 11:43 AM   #20
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with a "T" bar and a light bar you can keep it off the top.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:55 PM   #21
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Some good ideas. I'm not going to chance disaster and road death because I'm too cheap to get some decent rigging gear. Plus it would be a costly mistake if that top cracks. Then I gotta buy a rack AND a new top
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:58 PM   #22
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---BINGO--good thinkin partner !


Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 View Post
Some good ideas. I'm not going to chance disaster and road death because I'm too cheap to get some decent rigging gear. Plus it would be a costly mistake if that top cracks. Then I gotta buy a rack AND a new top
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
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with a "T" bar and a light bar you can keep it off the top.
NVKID, how do you like that RR light bar for tying down? you get enough clearance between the bar and jeep for bungees / cords/ straps?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
YUP, it is, but

The JK hardtop ain't fiberglass !

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My tj was, when did they change material and to what? I'm too lazy to look it up :/
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:35 PM   #25
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Evidentally they changed in 2007--


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My tj was, when did they change material and to what? I'm too lazy to look it up :/
The hardtop mat'll is a heat/pressure formed poly of some chemical label, it flexs/cracks/is a white dense bi-level plastic, but no glass fiber or threads-

It drills like thick-white-plastic !

There have been years of sudden "crack" reports--some were deserved and some weren't !!

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Old 04-01-2012, 07:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
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NVKID, how do you like that RR light bar for tying down? you get enough clearance between the bar and jeep for bungees / cords/ straps?
Works good to tie off on plus the top half comes off when not in use. (less wind noise and better MPG`s) My yak weighs 60# and I wouldn`t be afraid to haul two.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
Evidentally they changed in 2007--

The hardtop mat'll is a heat/pressure formed poly of some chemical label, it flexs/cracks/is a white dense bi-level plastic, but no glass fiber or threads-

It drills like thick-white-plastic !

There have been years of sudden "crack" reports--some were deserved and some weren't !!

JIMBO
Plastic :/.... Way to go Jeep, just like the front end bolts..
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Works good to tie off on plus the top half comes off when not in use. (less wind noise and better MPG`s) My yak weighs 60# and I wouldn`t be afraid to haul two.
Nice, thanks
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:11 PM   #29
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I carried a light weight Old Town 16' last fall with foam blocks and tie downs with no problems other than the wind blowing it from side to side. I'm getting a rack, though. I can't handle the stress on a windy day.
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:39 PM   #30
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Don't do it ,,get some racks made up .. snap,crackle, pop.

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