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Old 09-04-2013, 07:58 PM   #1
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Alright, so let me start by saying that I degreased my engine bay a week ago, that very day one of my JKS quick disco pins broke off and left the link hanging on the drag link all the way home. I disconnected the links, the link bracket was bent on the axle, so I just tied up the swaybar until I can bend it back to place. Fast forward to today, 7 days of driving with the swaybar disconnected (not bad at all), I'm cruising for 10 mins on the highway going about 70 mph were i began to feel a slight wobble than I hit a small hole in the road which gave me the full blown steering wheel go mad syndrome and it would not let off until I pulled to the side of the road. I came to a complete stop, and went back on the road going 70 again and the jeep felt just fine,, drove for 40 mins no problem. Then, on my way back home, 10 mins Into the drive (again), out of nowhere went into the extreme shaking. I pulled over, and went back on the road and again, perfect all the way home at 75 mph.

I've done my research, but my case sounds different than most... Could being discoed have anything to do with it? Rubber bushing seizing up because the degreaser? Wheel out of balance? Don't know where to start.

Vehicle suspension info: stock except 2" HD OME front coils and JKS links. Wheels are stock as well. Edit: 12,500 miles on the vehicle.

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Old 09-04-2013, 08:04 PM   #2
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Just a guess, but the driving around discoed and the degreaser could have been just enough to finish off the bushings in the track bar. I dought the degreaser has anything at all to do with it though.

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Old 09-04-2013, 08:05 PM   #3
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Nothing unusual. Sorry. Start checking steering and suspension components for looseness, wear or failure.
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:21 PM   #4
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Just a guess, but the driving around discoed and the degreaser could have been just enough to finish off the bushings in the track bar. I dought the degreaser has anything at all to do with it though.
Do you think it might be a combination of being discoed, and that the track bar bolts are a wrong size (from the factory)? I just read a post regarding the track bar bolts being a wrong size, causing a lot of play which then causes DW and floaty steering
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:38 PM   #5
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Do you think it might be a combination of being discoed, and that the track bar bolts are a wrong size (from the factory)? I just read a post regarding the track bar bolts being a wrong size, causing a lot of play which then causes DW and floaty steering
this is what started mine. I never get it at 70 though, and I would never wish that upon anyone. mine only happens between 25-30. eventually I took 2 pieces of 1/4" plate, drilled a perfect 9/16" hole in each (tight enough that I can barely get a 9/16" bolt in), slapped them on like washers and welded them to the bracket. I still get a tiny bit of wobble but I am pretty sure my original wobbles destroyed my RK trackbar bushing. turns out that whole bushing is $10 shipped.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:49 PM   #6
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this is what started mine. I never get it at 70 though, and I would never wish that upon anyone. mine only happens between 25-30. eventually I took 2 pieces of 1/4" plate, drilled a perfect 9/16" hole in each (tight enough that I can barely get a 9/16" bolt in), slapped them on like washers and welded them to the bracket. I still get a tiny bit of wobble but I am pretty sure my original wobbles destroyed my RK trackbar bushing. turns out that whole bushing is $10 shipped.
I'm about to have a friend come by and shake my steering up for me as I watch it. If the track bar does move oppositely of the axle, how would I know if I need to change the bushings, or if its just a matter of re-torquing? I have 12,500 miles on, and never got an alignment after any of my wheeling trips or leveling kit.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #7
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So I drove down the highway today staying at about 70, hit a couple bumps and nothing! A little bump steer but no death wobble. From my understanding, DW should get worse and worse once you get it, this is just weird. Perhaps I have to be going 75+ to get the wobble? Which is also weird...
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:27 PM   #8
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I would get it aligned or learn how to take the measurements yourself.

You should have very little movement within the bushings of the track bar. If its actually shifting you have a issue.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:34 AM   #9
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I would get it aligned or learn how to take the measurements yourself.

You should have very little movement within the bushings of the track bar. If its actually shifting you have a issue.
Agreed. 1/16" toe in is what you should have. No more than 1/8". Here's a how to. Scroll all the way down to SET THE TOE-IN. Click on the green link below the component diagram

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment

Also, even without side to side movement on track bar & drag link (buddy turning steering wheel back and forth) you could have a blown bushing in a control arm. This is hard to see and isn't safe to check visually by putting in gear and going forward and backward (ever so slightly) then hitting the brakes. Don't do it that way!
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:42 AM   #10
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I would get it aligned or learn how to take the measurements yourself.

You should have very little movement within the bushings of the track bar. If its actually shifting you have a issue.
I do have slight back and fourth movement of the track bar... I'm going to check if its wallowed or just needs to be re-torqued.

And to COStrider (I spelled that wrong I'm sure), thanks for the link. I've read that article a couple times before, I definitely see a full front end alignment this week, I hope to be able to do it myself, worse case scenario I take it to Jeep. Hopefully with re-torquing of the track bar, and a full alignment as well as the toe in, it will alleviate. Still strange how I didn't get it yesterday at all... We'll see what happens
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:11 AM   #11
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This is normal.... Well except for the click in which I have no idea what it is. Honestly only hear it on film
http://youtu.be/hb6mrtqw2Ws


Also look for flex within the track bar. I have a friend, his Full traction track bar flexed under load.http://youtu.be/X1c4-6Sy_no
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:43 AM   #12
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If you have knobby tires I found a easy way to check toe yourself.

- jack up and support axle on stands.
-Screw a 3/4-1" screw somewhere close to center in each tire. (In the tread not tire )
-grab the hook end of the tape measure and run across to the other screw. You want to be as close to half way up the tire.
- write down number
- rotate each tire 180 and do the same in the rear.
- write down number
- 1/16 to 1/8 closer in the front is good.

Caster is a angle and can only be measured on a alignment rack. This doesn't mean you can't get a estimate. It's actually pretty easy knowing the stock Jk Has a separation of 6* (caster/pinion) built into the axle.
Stock your pinion angle points up around 2*
Stock caster is around 4* = 6* total
This doesn't change, more caster lowers pinion angle. More pinion angle lessons caster.

Knowing this all you have to do is measure pinion angle. The most accurate way is off the pinion flange on flat ground. Or .... There's 2 flat machined circles on each side of the pumpkin you can get a reading from.

- angle or smart phone angle app
- measure pinion angle

0* means 6* caster
1* means 5* caster
2* means 4* caster (stock)
3* means 3* caster

This worked for me using the circles. I measured around 2 (88*) at the time with lca's
On the alignment rack 4.5* caster
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:23 PM   #13
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Welcome. One way to get the most accurate measurement for toe-in is by lifting each tire of the ground and spinning it while holding a marker very still to create a reference mark. It's hard to do, but its more accurate then going off tread blocks IMHO. Or get that tool the write up mentions from china/harbor freight
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:40 PM   #14
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Welcome. One way to get the most accurate measurement for toe-in is by lifting each tire of the ground and spinning it while holding a marker very still to create a reference mark. It's hard to do, but its more accurate then going off tread blocks IMHO. Or get that tool the write up mentions from china/harbor freight
That's the point of the screws. One end holds the tape measure end other is your measurement point
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:50 PM   #15
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That's the point of the screws. One end holds the tape measure end other is your measurement point
I can't intentionally put screws in my tires, sorry
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:53 PM   #16
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Lol ... The treads blocks (if you have them)
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:04 PM   #17
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Lol ... The treads blocks (if you have them)
Huh?



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Old 09-08-2013, 01:13 PM   #18
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Kjeeper, I'm picking up my tires in about a month or 2, don't think these Duellers will handle a nail lol. And my track bar moves very similar to how that first video shows, but Mine has a tiny bit more give to it, and my axle has very slight movement as well. I don't believe the track bar is bending, although I could be wrong. I took a video, and to best describe it, you see the tires turn, and see the axle and track bar move SLIGHTLY to the right, and when the tires turn left, the track bar SLIGHTLY moves left, but no movement in the axle, and the track bar is very slightly moving, no noticeable movement in the bushing/bolt area. . If I get my KM2s before I get the alignment, I will definitely try the toe in trick.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:15 PM   #19
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Huh?
He's referring to if you have thick enough blocks in the tires (Mud tires) that will take a screw but won't actually hit the tire.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:38 PM   #20
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He's referring to if you have thick enough blocks in the tires (Mud tires) that will take a screw but won't actually hit the tire.
Ahhh. Lol. Nice.

Ya know as opposed to a screw I'd be willing to use those old school flat tacks!
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:44 PM   #21
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Ahhh. Lol. Nice.

Ya know as opposed to a screw I'd be willing to use those old school flat tacks!
Actually ... The longer colored tacks work ok. I tried them to.
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:52 PM   #22
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Actually ... The longer colored tacks work ok. I tried them to.
Stay PC please. Lol. Jk
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:02 PM   #23
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So to update this thread, I had a great mechanic (and friend) take a look under my jeep while I turned the steering wheel and e said the drag link AND tie rod end links on the passenger side were both bad (moved and clunked up and down) and the track bar moves more than it should and he said the way to fix all that is to get the RK steering kit and new track bar. I immediately reminded him that the jeep has 12,500 miles on it and there's no way in hell I'm going to replace all that stuff if I'm still under warranty. I guess the next step is go to the dealer and see if they will replace the parts needed. It will be insane if they don't, that's about 600$ worth of parts.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:04 AM   #24
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So to update this thread, I had a great mechanic (and friend) take a look under my jeep while I turned the steering wheel and e said the drag link AND tie rod end links on the passenger side were both bad (moved and clunked up and down) and the track bar moves more than it should and he said the way to fix all that is to get the RK steering kit and new track bar. I immediately reminded him that the jeep has 12,500 miles on it and there's no way in hell I'm going to replace all that stuff if I'm still under warranty. I guess the next step is go to the dealer and see if they will replace the parts needed. It will be insane if they don't, that's about 600$ worth of parts.
Sadly, you will have to be able to show the dealer what is broken.
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Old 09-10-2013, 06:52 AM   #25
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Sadly, you will have to be able to show the dealer what is broken.
If its what my friend and I seen under my jeep, it won't be an issue showing them the looseness in the track bar, drag link, and tie rod. I just hope i won't have any problems with them try to say its been wheeled too hard or something

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