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Old 07-01-2011, 09:26 PM   #1
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What is lockers

I have a jk and am a newbie, just wondering what lockers are and how much they are

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Old 07-01-2011, 09:28 PM   #2
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I have a jk and am a newbie, just wondering what lockers are and how much they are
They're for books and jackets and hiding your bag of weed.

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Old 07-01-2011, 09:33 PM   #3
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They're for books and jackets and hiding your bag of weed.
Nice very helpful as well I'm sure.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:41 PM   #4
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Lockers provide power to both wheels on a given axle. A Jeep comes with three types of carriers in a differential; open, limited slip, and lockers that can be open or limited slip when not locked. When you put your Jeep in 4 wheel drive you are not really providing power but to two wheels, one in rear and one up front. Lockers front and back gives power to all wheels.

Rubicons come stock with lockers while the Sport and Sahara do not. You can have a option for the Sport and Sahara to have rear Trac-Loc's which are limited slip. What limited slip does is if the wheel with traction slips the power is transferred to the other wheel on the same axle. This is done in the carrier which is in the diff. The front on the non Rubi's are open and only one wheel has power when in 4wd no matter what. So if that wheel leaves the ground the front axle no longer has any traction to it.

There are several types of lockers. The Rubicon uses a E-Locker which is activated by a coil through voltage. Many that buy aftermarket get air lockers which uses a air compressor to send air to the locker and locks it, there is also a manual locker that uses cables to lock, and a automatic locker that locks anytime there is power from the driveline.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcollins
I have a jk and am a newbie, just wondering what lockers are and how much they are
If you do not have a rubicon then you have positive traction. That means that the wheel with the least amount of resistance (the one that's spinning and not getting traction) on an axle gets the power. A locker allows both wheels receive power by locking together the axle shafts at the carrier in the middle.

Essentially what it means is if you are in two wheel drive and one wheel looses traction without a locker then you aren't going anywhere. If you are in 4wd then and you loose traction to one front and one back wheel then you are stuck again.

Kind of confusing but let it sink in.

There are many different types, check out the net and you can get a lot more info.
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:45 PM   #6
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:51 PM   #7
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So whats the most popular type of locker that has least possibility of failure?

Also air lockers will need compressed air to operate, where do the tank and compressor go?
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:53 PM   #8
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Lockers allow for a true 4x4, when one wheel become suspended a lot of the force gets applied to that wheel, sometimes making the one with actual traction less adequate, it still gets power, but not enough. This is because the torque the engine generates is dropped when one of the tires loses traction, therefore not having the power to give a adequate force to the tire that is on the ground. Lockers will distribute power to both wheels equally regardless if one is suspended or not. The locker is installed inside the differential. And yes, they are awesome, I run an ARB (Pneumatic) locker in the rear, I'm still saving for the front.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:02 PM   #9
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So whats the most popular type of locker that has least possibility of failure?

Also air lockers will need compressed air to operate, where do the tank and compressor go?
Depends on what you want. An selectable locker or an automatic.
The reliability of a locker come from the quality of the installation.
The popular location of the compressors are on the battery tray on the drivers side. That's where I have mine.

I decided to go with ARB. And I am really happy. I didn't want an automatic locker, yes they are cheaper, but I wanted the power to choose when I want to be locked.

Popular auto choices are detroit, whick work on Centrifugal force.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:12 PM   #10
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Air Lockers are very popular. ARB being the best but also heard good things about Yukon Zip air lockers. There is a lot of cost just in the fact you need a compressor set up. But then too, if you get a good one you can use it to air up after a day on the trail.

I went with the e-locker myself but only up front. I had the Trac-Lok rear and didn't see the rush to upgrade them but wanted to upgrade the open fronts right away. Eaton makes a very good e-locker for the D30 fronts, 4 pin lock. Their d44 aren't as great, 2 pin lock. After running around the trails I found the combo of E-Lockers up front and LSD in rear work real well together and have no plans of upgrading anymore at this time.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #11
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So you put a locker on your d30? I run 35s on my stock TJ sport axles but the only offroading there is to do around here (South Florida) is mostly sugar sand. Theres no mountains and almost 0 hard ground everything is sand. What lockers (if any) do you recommend? I havent really done much off roading in the past but the few places I can find I have so much fun that I want to do more.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:56 PM   #12
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A lunchbox locker is not recommended for anything over a 33" tire. Ox lockers have a good reputation and arb's do as well. I run a lockrite but im in louisiana mud on 33's.
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Old 07-02-2011, 12:29 AM   #13
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So you put a locker on your d30? I run 35s on my stock TJ sport axles but the only offroading there is to do around here (South Florida) is mostly sugar sand. Theres no mountains and almost 0 hard ground everything is sand. What lockers (if any) do you recommend? I havent really done much off roading in the past but the few places I can find I have so much fun that I want to do more.

Yes, Eaton E-Lockers came highly recommended for d30"s their d30 e-locker is a 4 pin system. So far they have worked great. Really can't even tell they engage they are so smooth. I added gussets also.
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Old 07-02-2011, 01:05 AM   #14
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A lunchbox locker is not recommended for anything over a 33" tire. Ox lockers have a good reputation and arb's do as well. I run a lockrite but im in louisiana mud on 33's.
In 5 yrs of wheeling and forums I have never head this and know manny who have run auto lockers successfully for years on 4x4's with 35's plus without issue.
Op auto lockers are the most reliable type of locker cause there is less that can fail with one then a selectable locker. However a selectable locker is ideal cause you can turn the locker on and off as you please. Running a auto locker on DD/WW does have its down falls if you live in a snowy climate that a selectable wont.


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Old 07-02-2011, 03:25 AM   #15
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They're for books and jackets and hiding your bag of weed.
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and LSD
And all this talk about dealers, too. Just what kind of vehicle and "brotherhood" am I paying for here?
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:27 AM   #16
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soooo.... I guess my next question should be. since I dont have the $ to buy lockers for both atm. Which to do first? my guess is rear. And, do I need to upgrade my axle shafts since I run 35s? Then, since Im upgrading all that stuff is it cheaper (better) to buy better axles with lockers installed?

Geez its never ending lol
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:35 AM   #17
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I would recommend the front first. As far as the other questions, that's up to you.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:18 AM   #18
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On a JK for 35's you dont need to upgrade shafts and you defidently dont need tons. Axle swaps are pretty expensive alone let alone buying one with a locker in it already. As to where to run a locker first, front or rear. It depends on the type of wheeling you do. With mud and general trails lock your rear up first. But if you gonna rock crawl then go front locker first.


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Old 07-02-2011, 11:29 AM   #19
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On a Rubicon you can't do front alone. It is rear or all or none.
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Old 07-02-2011, 12:15 PM   #20
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On a Rubicon you can't do front alone. It is rear or all or none.
with the JK rubicon locker bypass. It lets you run them in 4HI but not seperately? Just double checking. Thanks.


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Old 07-02-2011, 12:19 PM   #21
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with the JK rubicon locker bypass. It lets you run them in 4HI but not seperately? Just double checking. Thanks.


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If you are referring to the mod to bypass the computer control then yes, you can lock them in 4 high and you could also wire them to switch independently. But not stock.
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Old 07-02-2011, 01:26 PM   #22
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If you are referring to the mod to bypass the computer control then yes, you can lock them in 4 high and you could also wire them to switch independently. But not stock.
Thanks . Knew about stock and the computer bypass to run them in 4H but just wasnt 100% positive on running them indapenditly.


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Old 07-02-2011, 03:15 PM   #23
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On a JK for 35's you dont need to upgrade shafts and you defidently dont need tons. Axle swaps are pretty expensive alone let alone buying one with a locker in it already. As to where to run a locker first, front or rear. It depends on the type of wheeling you do. With mud and general trails lock your rear up first. But if you gonna rock crawl then go front locker first.


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I was referring to my 2000 TJ sport
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:41 PM   #24
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I was referring to my 2000 TJ sport
My bad. Op posted about his JK in the JK tech section so I missed that you said you had a TJ in your post. So just miss read your post. Brain was in JK mode lol. 35's on your TJ stock axles. The D30 front is good but if your gona go hard on them then I would upgrade your shafts. As to your rear axle. The TJ came with the turd dana 35 from the factory but had a D44 option. The D35 is good for up to 33's open. The D44 is good for a locked for 35's. The ideal rear axle for 35's imo is the F8.8 from either ecgs or right out of a exploder but that really only needs to be a thought if you got the D35. If you got the D35 a third option is getting a super 35 kit. Like the F8.8 and D44 you can run 35's locked just fine.
As to locker. Run a rear one first as long as you got an upgraded axle as a rear locker will benifet you the most for where you wheel.


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Old 07-02-2011, 05:14 PM   #25
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thx for the info. I do have the D35 in the rear so I guess my best option is to go ford 8.8 or maybe a d44 but if Imma do it, I might as well do it right the first time.
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:31 PM   #26
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thx for the info. I do have the D35 in the rear so I guess my best option is to go ford 8.8 or maybe a d44 but if Imma do it, I might as well do it right the first time.
haha yep. The TJ Dana 44 if you find one. Not cheap but is a direct bolt in swap. The ECGS F8.8 is a nice option and is a direct bolt in but will run you 2K+ depending how you want it built. Then there is one out of a exploder. If you got fab/welding skills its likely gonna be the cheapest option to look at.


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