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Old 09-21-2012, 09:58 AM   #1
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What is the amperage generated by the alternator on a 3.6?

Anyone know off the top of their head?

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Old 09-21-2012, 10:04 AM   #2
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160 if i remember right.

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Old 09-21-2012, 10:16 AM   #3
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:29 AM   #4
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Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:34 PM   #5
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The output also depends on the RPM (in case you are trying to calculate a load or something). So, it's not just 160A at idle. Not sure if that matters to you.
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Old 09-21-2012, 06:00 PM   #6
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I've put on one set of lights and am thinking about another set which would pull about another 200 watts possibly up to 400 total so around 35 amp of additional load plus losses. Winch will be coming eventually too.
I was just trying to get an idea of what the upper bound is to determine if an alternator upgrade would be in my future. It is looking like that is going to be the case since I am really not wanting to add a 2nd battery. I don't even know where I would put one other than inside the cab & THAT is not going to happen. I guess an under-chassis battery box would work but that is not desireable either.
Upgraded an old ford alternator from 65 to 150 amp after the cooling fan, 600 watt stereo, electric fuel pump & AC so I assume the lights would put me in the same situation.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:41 PM   #7
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You dont have room where the current battery is for a dual setup?
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:00 PM   #8
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Put an iceberg altenator in if ya need more juice.200a kits and 250a
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSport
You dont have room where the current battery is for a dual setup?
It looks pretty full under the hood

Granted I have not specifically measured but I will now just out of curiosity
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkmcd99
Put an iceberg altenator in if ya need more juice.200a kits and 250a
Iceburg
Ok. I would imagine 200 would work for my purposes.
Noted for reference
Thanks much
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:51 PM   #11
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dual batteries fit fine in a 2012 with the 3.6. It's not much different than the 3.8. I am running dual batteries. Mountain Off Road (M.O.R.E) makes a tray that works. I also have a tray from Benchmark Designs before they flopped that I made work. They sent me the tray without a clamp or anything else. I made it work by fabbing my own top clamp. They stacked the batteries vertically, however, which is not as convenient as the MORE setup, so I ended up buying that one.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBrito View Post
dual batteries fit fine in a 2012 with the 3.6. It's not much different than the 3.8. I am running dual batteries. Mountain Off Road (M.O.R.E) makes a tray that works. I also have a tray from Benchmark Designs before they flopped that I made work. They sent me the tray without a clamp or anything else. I made it work by fabbing my own top clamp. They stacked the batteries vertically, however, which is not as convenient as the MORE setup, so I ended up buying that one.
Can you provide a pic of your setup under the hood? You have my curiosity going now.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjerhoo View Post
Can you provide a pic of your setup under the hood? You have my curiosity going now.
Unfortunately, I didn't really take any pictures. But, I found these on my cell phone from the install:

This is the tray from Benchmark installed, fits the 2 yellow tops vertically mounted.

Actually, it has a gap, that I had to make a spacer for so the batteries wouldn't move around. I used a 1.5" wide piece of wood to keep them tight. They also only delivered exactly what you see there, so I had to fab a top clamp that would hold the batteries in place. But, go it installed, and it worked out okay.

This is the way the batteries sit in the tray:

Looks like they fit just right, but there was extra space.

I recently decided to ditch that setup, because I really liked the horizontal mount position for the batteries. Went with the M.O.R.E. tray that just came out. You can see a picture here:
Jeep Dual Battery Tray for '12+ Wrangler JKs from Mountain Off-Road (M.O.R.E.)
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjerhoo View Post
It looks pretty full under the hood

Granted I have not specifically measured but I will now just out of curiosity
There's miles of thread and pictures among these forums for dual battery setups. Many are expensive and complicated store bought kits. I like simplicity and if was to install one, would simply use a Marine dual battery switch that chooses 1, 2, or both.
For boon docking, stay with one for DVD watching, inverter use, etc....then switch over for a fresh starting battery in the morning.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:43 AM   #15
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I designed my own, though its not really a design per say. I just used a "Smart Isolator" -- this is essentially just an automatic marine switch as tropical36 mentions. The difference is that you don't have to manually switch it, it automatically chooses between 1 battery, or both.
I used the Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Isolator. You simply connect it inline between the positive battery cable you use to connect the two batteries in parallel. It has an optional "Boost" and "Status" cable. Once connected, it senses the voltages of both batteries and also looks for alternator voltage. What it does is isolate the batteries (disconnect them) when there is no charging voltage coming from the alternator. That way, you can drain your aux battery and still have a main battery fully charged. When it detects that the alternator is running, it makes sure that your main battery is fully charged, then when that is fully charged, it switches in the aux battery for charging.

So pretty much the exact function of a marine selector switch, except it does this automatically, and you never forget to isolate or combine as can happen with a manual switch. Also, the Boost cable, allows you to connect a switch that will let you hook the batteries together manually to boost yourself, or get extra current draw capacity like for winching. The Status cable lets you hook up an indicator LED that will let you know if the batteries are connected together or isolated.

The wiring is simple, not any more complicated than a marine switch, except for the boost and status cable if you choose to wire those into the cabin, but again, those are optional. I know people worry that the switch might fail, but if it does, you can simple unscrew the two sides and hook them together and you're good to go. Plus, they're designed to fail in isolation mode, and the Status LED is also helpful in figuring out if something is not working as it should either with the isolator or the batteries, or the charge system.

Things have gotten pretty nice!

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