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Old 09-09-2013, 09:14 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by brighton View Post
Most of the info is in my profile - 35"x12.5"x17" Goodyear MTR tires on 17"x8.5" wheels with a 2.5" Rock Krawler Max Travel Lift. No spacers required.

I only recently installed the flat fenders, but the 2.5" RK lift works perfectly fine with the stock fenders without any rubbing on any of the trails I've been on. The flat fenders will allow me to run 37's if I decide to upgrade in the future.
That's pretty much the setup I am looking into. 2.5 inch lift, with the same size tires and wheels. Thanks.

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Old 09-09-2013, 09:18 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by RKracing View Post
Sure.....you say that now but in a few months........

I wish you luck my fellow brother Jeepper.
ha ha. yeah, I am getting alot of that . I am doing only 2.5 since this Rubicon is my only vehicle. I have to drive this thing to work everyday. My plan is to pay it off and keep it as a second vehicle in the future. But that's years down the road. So in 5-6 years I would revisit this and more than likely lift it higher. I know most people say do it all at once but investing this money now and using it for 5-6 years is enough use for the investment. is your jeep your only vehicle?

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Old 09-09-2013, 09:20 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by RKracing View Post
Just my opinion.....

I have had a few 2.5" lifts.
Most / a lot of the folks then change them out for bigger and better lifts.
They get tired of being left behind and sitting on the front porch when The Big Dog's go 4x4ing. They want to run with the big dog's but that's not gonna happen......

Go for a EVO 4" Long Arm 37" Bad Boy Lift.
You will not need to buy another lift down the road with this
Bad Boy Big Dog set up.
My plan is to lift it the 2.5 inches now and in the future when I am able to afford a second car, I would lift it higher. It may be more expensive to do but it's more practical for me since I need to use it everyday now.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:21 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by rla1999 View Post

That's pretty much the setup I am looking into. 2.5 inch lift, with the same size tires and wheels. Thanks.
The Rock Krawler lifts (and some of the other brands also) tend to give a little more lift than advertised. This is to allow for adding weight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, etc. My lift ended up netting me about 3.0 inches, slightly more in the front, which also removed the factory rake. It sits just about perfectly level now.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:22 AM   #65
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lol, yeah, the itch to upgrade is a sickness. I do agree with others that keeping the lift to the minimum needed is a wise choice.
Sweet. You are in my corner
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:29 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by ElectricJay View Post
Thanks..
The Tereflex Budget Boost is a spacer lift.
Teraflex 1355210 - TeraFlex 2.5" Budget Boost & Shock Adapters for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

You can get this lift and run it with your stock shocks. It comes with shock adapters, Rear Sway Bar Links, Rear Brake Line Brackets and Rear Track Bar Bracket. You move your old Rear Sway Bar Links to the front. Tereflex has a great video on how to install this lift.


I got this kit with shocks. TeraFlex 2.5" Budget Boost with Shocks for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
Also, instead of moving my old Rear Sway Bar Links to the front, I went with JKS Discos. This is exactly what I wanted when I bought it and has served me well. But I am enjoying my Jeep and off roading far more than I could have imagined and enjoy doing more challenging trails. I like the way the quality coil lifts handle (RK, RE. TF etc..)
I hope you enjoy your Jeep as much as I enjoy mine. This is a great community on this forum and have met some awesome people here and on the trail.
Thanks. Yeah, I have noticed that. People in this forum and other people I have met at local Jeep meets are all great. They are often opened to giving good advise.

I am enjoying this jeep greatly. I never imagined I would have liked it so much. I should have gotten a jeep sooner.

I saw the video of the budget boost. It seems to be all I would need. I also checked out Teraflex 2.5 inch lift kit.

| TeraFlex Suspensions

Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:37 AM   #67
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rla1999 I should have asked you about what kind of spacers you meant. If you meant wheel spacers I did not need them because I bought new wheels with the correct back spacing. If you use Stock wheels with 35" tires, you would need wheel spacers.
Thanks for the info. Where do you find the information that shows when you need spacers and when not? From what I have seen in this thread, I can keep my stock rims and add new tires and use a 1.5 inch spacer. With new wheels (17x8.5) and tires (35x12.5x17) I would not need them.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:40 AM   #68
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Hey all,


I am about to do this myself. All the boxes are in the front room. One thing that I did not see mentioned (I could be blind) is about what equipment you intend to add. If you add a bumper and winch that will compress the springs further, so a 2 inch lift goes to a 1.75 lift. I made a few calls to different vendors and settled on a 3 inch lift as I will be putting a new front bumper,winch and rear bumper as well as 35's. so add that tire on the back now.

Ran the numbers and minus the lift of the tires I should net 2.5 ish in a coil lift. I also went with Elka shocks to help smooth out the ride.


As with all lifts if you desire a nice ride u will have to put more equipment in to bring the geometry back into spec.

Good luck!!!!
I want to keep as much of the stock equipment as possible. I want to keep my bumpers and fenders as is and use the max lift I could get while keeping all that in place. from what I have seen, the 2.5 inch lift with 35 inch tires would allow me to keep everything else the same. At least, I hope that's the case
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:49 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by brighton View Post
The Rock Krawler lifts (and some of the other brands also) tend to give a little more lift than advertised. This is to allow for adding weight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, etc. My lift ended up netting me about 3.0 inches, slightly more in the front, which also removed the factory rake. It sits just about perfectly level now.
Good to know. Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:51 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by rla1999 View Post

Thanks for the info. Where do you find the information that shows when you need spacers and when not? From what I have seen in this thread, I can keep my stock rims and add new tires and use a 1.5 inch spacer. With new wheels (17x8.5) and tires (35x12.5x17) I would not need them.
The problem with the stock rims is the backspacing which is something like 6.25" IIRC. You'll need spacers to push the wheels out to avoid rubbing with control arms, sway bar, etc. if you want to run larger tires. Most aftermarket wheels will have much less backspacing and can work without spacers.

Look for a thread called "Largest tires on a stock JK" and it will have more info than you can possibly want regarding tire sizes, wheels, spacers, etc.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:01 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by rubisteph View Post
Cngrats on your new Jeep, I'm just back after a 5 year absence from jeeps with a new rubicon 10A. But I have 22 years of Jeep mod behind me... 2 YJ's, 1 XJ and a TJ.

The only advice I can give you is that the less lift the better. Once you lift, you start playing with driveline angles, gearing, suspension travel , turning radius if you don't go with aftermarket wheels and brake performance. If you want to do it the smart way, I say go with a small budget/leveling kit and maximum 34 inch tires.

But I know tons of Jeep guys with Jeeps built for looks with Jeeps lifted to the sky with way oversized tires and they couldn't even dream of following you with your stock Rubicon.

But hey, I'm an old geezer who learned my way. Build your Jeep to make it your own.
Thanks for the info. I have thought about that alot over the past few days. I am more confident about my decision of getting the 2.5 inch lift with 35 inch tires, while keeping most of my stock equipment and not messing with gears, angles, etc. It seems to work for everyday driving and some off roading. I mean, I live in South Florida where it's 95% flat. So to go off roading I have to drive quite a few miles to get there.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:02 AM   #72
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The problem with the stock rims is the backspacing which is something like 6.25" IIRC. You'll need spacers to push the wheels out to avoid rubbing with control arms, sway bar, etc. if you want to run larger tires. Most aftermarket wheels will have much less backspacing and can work without spacers.

Look for a thread called "Largest tires on a stock JK" and it will have more info than you can possibly want regarding tire sizes, wheels, spacers, etc.
cool. I'll look into it. Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:02 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by rla1999 View Post
Thanks for the info. Where do you find the information that shows when you need spacers and when not? From what I have seen in this thread, I can keep my stock rims and add new tires and use a 1.5 inch spacer. With new wheels (17x8.5) and tires (35x12.5x17) I would not need them.
Any reputable tire store would know what back spacing you need. Brighton said it best
"The problem with the stock rims is the backspacing which is something like 6.25" IIRC. You'll need spacers to push the wheels out to avoid rubbing with control arms, sway bar, etc. if you want to run larger tires. Most aftermarket wheels will have much less backspacing and can work without spacers."

Since you mentioned MPG earlier in this thread, You should consider tire and wheel weight. For example
Goodyear Duratracs 315/70R17 weighs 60 lbs.
BFG KM2 35X12.5R17LT 68 lbs
Mickey Thpsn ATZ P3 315/70R17 65 lbs
DC New Fun Country 315/70R17 66 lbs
Grabber Red Letter 35X12.5R17LT 78 lbs

Wheels can weigh on avg 27 - 34 lbs

That's why GY Duratracs are so popular. It's one of the lightest 35" tires out there. I don't know the physics behind the increased weight (anyone care to chime in?) I felt a little lag in power loss and a couple of mpg's loss. But I knew that going in and I am happy with what I did!

I hope I didn't make your head spin.
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:30 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by ElectricJay View Post
Any reputable tire store would know what back spacing you need. Brighton said it best
"The problem with the stock rims is the backspacing which is something like 6.25" IIRC. You'll need spacers to push the wheels out to avoid rubbing with control arms, sway bar, etc. if you want to run larger tires. Most aftermarket wheels will have much less backspacing and can work without spacers."

Since you mentioned MPG earlier in this thread, You should consider tire and wheel weight. For example
Goodyear Duratracs 315/70R17 weighs 60 lbs.
BFG KM2 35X12.5R17LT 68 lbs
Mickey Thpsn ATZ P3 315/70R17 65 lbs
DC New Fun Country 315/70R17 66 lbs
Grabber Red Letter 35X12.5R17LT 78 lbs

Wheels can weigh on avg 27 - 34 lbs

That's why GY Duratracs are so popular. It's one of the lightest 35" tires out there. I don't know the physics behind the increased weight (anyone care to chime in?) I felt a little lag in power loss and a couple of mpg's loss. But I knew that going in and I am happy with what I did!

I hope I didn't make your head spin.
more great info. Thanks. My decision is becoming clearer
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #75
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If u go with spacers make sure they are hub centric. With 35 tires you will probably need a beefier front track bar currie and Teraflex make the best in my opinion. Teraflex has some good videos about that as well and why. Also the stock steering stabilizer is prone to failure with just stock tires. Also it is the lowest point so you may want to investigate the fox ats. I have the regular fox on there now and it pulls to the left. ( nature of a gas shock) the ats will not do that. And yes some will say u don't need a steering stabilizer.

Trackbar. As you lift the jeep the roll center is off set cause the factory track bars (from and rear) are not adjustable so you will see that your body is shifted to one side (more tire out of the fender then the other) The adj trackbar will move the body back over the frame. The higher the lift the more offset you will have. You will also need anti sway bar extension links as with that lift the antisway will be cocked at an angle.


Hope that helps
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #76
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I know this is a complete 180 from topic, but how about discussing the pros/cons of a 3.5" lift to clear 35s (my goal as well) vs. running up to 37's on metal cloak Overland fenders? Same space under pumpkins as a lift, center of gravity stays lower, factory ride (assuming you like it), etc.

The two disadvantages I can think of are:
-Less articulation w/ factory susp and fenders?
-Non-OEM look of the tube fenders, which to me is actually a plus.

Thanks, all. These forums are the most useful tool in the garage...
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #77
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10" lift 55" super swampers. Do it or your a girl.
......I'm dying over here.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:50 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by ElectricJay View Post
Any reputable tire store would know what back spacing you need. Brighton said it best
"The problem with the stock rims is the backspacing which is something like 6.25" IIRC. You'll need spacers to push the wheels out to avoid rubbing with control arms, sway bar, etc. if you want to run larger tires. Most aftermarket wheels will have much less backspacing and can work without spacers."

Since you mentioned MPG earlier in this thread, You should consider tire and wheel weight. For example
Goodyear Duratracs 315/70R17 weighs 60 lbs.
BFG KM2 35X12.5R17LT 68 lbs
Mickey Thpsn ATZ P3 315/70R17 65 lbs
DC New Fun Country 315/70R17 66 lbs
Grabber Red Letter 35X12.5R17LT 78 lbs

Wheels can weigh on avg 27 - 34 lbs

That's why GY Duratracs are so popular. It's one of the lightest 35" tires out there. I don't know the physics behind the increased weight (anyone care to chime in?) I felt a little lag in power loss and a couple of mpg's loss. But I knew that going in and I am happy with what I did!

I hope I didn't make your head spin.
The added weight requires more energy to get into motion. Remember an object in motion tends to stay in motion and an object at rest tends to stay at rest. The heavier the object, the more force required to change its state.
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Old 09-12-2013, 04:07 PM   #79
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I have a 4 week old Rubicon I am contemplating getting bigger tires as a second pair and lifting it some.

What would you guys recommend I do? Size of tire and lift in inches?

Thanks
Easy. Whatever you end up buying, you should of bought one size bigger.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #80
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I bought 35x12.50x20 federal couarge tires and they rub inside the wheel well when I turn the wheel all the way? Is this common or did I buy the wrong tire? Thanks
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:55 AM   #81
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I bought 35x12.50x20 federal couarge tires and they rub inside the wheel well when I turn the wheel all the way? Is this common or did I buy the wrong tire? Thanks
Probably not the wrong tire. Did you get that size tire mounted on stock rims? If you did, you need spacers.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:41 AM   #82
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Probably not the wrong tire. Did you get that size tire mounted on stock rims? If you did, you need spacers.
The spec is for a 20" rim, so not stock.

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