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Old 10-15-2012, 07:12 AM   #1
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whats required with a lift? 2Door.

Ok, I'm about ready to order a 2dr to replace my TJ. Have to order since most of the dealers around here have automatics and 3:21 gears. Two things I don't want.
Looking at 35's and probably a 2.5" lift, brand TBD

I have read something about drive shafts. Whats the deal there, I can't seem to find a solid answer regarding if they need replacing when lifting. If so whats the magic number lift to stay under and be safe?

The wife won't be too pleased if I need new drive shafts a month after buying a new vehicle!
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:16 AM   #2
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If you stay at 2.5" you should not need a new driveshaft. There is a good chance you will need an exhaust spacer though so your exhaust clears the driveshaft. Teraflex makes one that can be bought for around $50

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Old 10-15-2012, 07:19 AM   #3
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2 1/2" lift-- you should be ok with stock DS!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:22 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Paul04tj View Post
Ok, I'm about ready to order a 2dr to replace my TJ. Have to order since most of the dealers around here have automatics and 3:21 gears. Two things I don't want.
Looking at 35's and probably a 2.5" lift, brand TBD

I have read something about drive shafts. Whats the deal there, I can't seem to find a solid answer regarding if they need replacing when lifting. If so whats the magic number lift to stay under and be safe?

The wife won't be too pleased if I need new drive shafts a month after buying a new vehicle!
What gear ratio are you getting? Assuming 3.73, unless you say otherwise. I've got a '12 with 3.73 and 35's, and it's close, close, to being okay. Still, generally can't use 6th gear on the freeway unless it's flat, headwind and incline free. Going to 4.56 gears soon.

Drive it and see. Kinda subjective. Peeps post that they're happy with 35's and 3.21 gears. Personally, I think they drive to the corner convenience store and back, and don't know what they're talking about, but hey...

For a 2.5" lift you should be fine with the stock ds. Buy a good lift, though, like OME, TeraFlex, Rock Krawler or AEV. Not a place to get cheap.

For 35's you're gonna need a new tire carrier, MIGHT need to trim your pinch seams, and I'd strongly recommend getting gussets welded to your front axle C's, if you're gonna wheel it.

Other than that, it's all gravy.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:28 AM   #5
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2 1/2" lift-- you should be ok with stock DS!!
If words cost cash, I'd be flat broke. My man here ^^knows brevity. Nine. Impressive.

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Originally Posted by alabamajeep View Post
If you stay at 2.5" you should not need a new driveshaft. There is a good chance you will need an exhaust spacer though so your exhaust clears the driveshaft. Teraflex makes one that can be bought for around $50
^^ True, though disgustingly long-winded compared to the Don. Alabama, you embarrass all of us.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:44 AM   #6
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Wouldn't you want a 4" lift to run 35s? I know I had to do a 4" just to clear 33's. I'd have had to go to a six inch lift for 35's to clear and that still doesn't leave a lot of room to articulate.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:49 AM   #7
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Wouldn't you want a 4" lift to run 35s? I know I had to do a 4" just to clear 33's. I'd have had to go to a six inch lift for 35's to clear and that still doesn't leave a lot of room to articulate.


On a JK? No...you can run 33's with no lift, barring max flex, and 35's with a 2.5" lift. Even 37's with the 2.5", if you trim the fenders or run flatties.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:12 AM   #8
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Wouldn't you want a 4" lift to run 35s? I know I had to do a 4" just to clear 33's. I'd have had to go to a six inch lift for 35's to clear and that still doesn't leave a lot of room to articulate.

Typical YJ thinking. 6" lift and 3" body lift to use 35" tires.

2.5" lift on a JK will work for 35's.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:44 AM   #9
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What gear ratio are you getting? Assuming 3.73, unless you say otherwise. I've got a '12 with 3.73 and 35's, and it's close, close, to being okay. Still, generally can't use 6th gear on the freeway unless it's flat, headwind and incline free. Going to 4.56 gears soon.

Drive it and see. Kinda subjective. Peeps post that they're happy with 35's and 3.21 gears. Personally, I think they drive to the corner convenience store and back, and don't know what they're talking about, but hey...

For a 2.5" lift you should be fine with the stock ds. Buy a good lift, though, like OME, TeraFlex, Rock Krawler or AEV. Not a place to get cheap.

For 35's you're gonna need a new tire carrier, MIGHT need to trim your pinch seams, and I'd strongly recommend getting gussets welded to your front axle C's, if you're gonna wheel it.

Other than that, it's all gravy.

I've gotten mixed messages there as well.
These quote are from another forum.

Quote:
I have the JKU (4 door) with 35's, manual and 3:73's and live in a mountainous area at 4400ft and it's just fine, absolutely NO problems at all.
I had a 2010 with 285's and the '12 still has alot more power than that did.

The 2 door is 500 pounds less, so you should be in great shape!
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I have a 2012 with 5 speed auto and run 35's with a 373 rear. I hardly noticed any loss of power compared to stock which was the stock Rubicon tires. my COD rubicon Also has. 2.5 inch Teraflex lift on it.
I know my TJ on 31's and 3:73's is bearable on the highway, (which I drive up to 500 miles/week for work) Top and doors off and forget 5th gear. When I had 3:07s 5th gear was down hill.

I can pull my boat on the highway and not have much issse in fifth. (Boat and gear are only about 800lbs)
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:28 AM   #10
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Paul, I'm thinking about getting this Rubicon Express lift kit for a 2011 Sahara 2dr from one of the sponsor/vendors here: Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Coil Suspension System With Mono Tube Shocks RUB-RE7121M

Also, if needed I'll add this 3 link upgrade kit: Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Long Arm 3-Link Suspension Upgrade Kit, Rear RUB-RE7333

I'm prolly gonna run a set of 12.5" wide MT 33s on a set of 15x10 Alloys, but I think it's also high enough for your 35s too. If anybody has experience with the Rub Express setup pls chime in & thanks!
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:32 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by chim-chim7 View Post
Typical YJ thinking. 6" lift and 3" body lift to use 35" tires.

2.5" lift on a JK will work for 35's.


your right... sorry guys. I thought you were talking about your TJ.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:53 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Paul04tj View Post
I've gotten mixed messages there as well.
These quote are from another forum.
I know my TJ on 31's and 3:73's is bearable on the highway, (which I drive up to 500 miles/week for work) Top and doors off and forget 5th gear. When I had 3:07s 5th gear was down hill.

I can pull my boat on the highway and not have much issse in fifth. (Boat and gear are only about 800lbs)
Yeah, the whole gearing thing is really subjective. I try to tell peeps, hit 2500 rpms on a JK, and you're good to go. Nevertheless, there are folks on here running 35's on 3.21 gears, and say they're happy.

There are a lot of variables. If you drive in a city, and rarely hit the freeway, you might not really notice the power loss. A manual will do better than an auto. Live where it's flat? Much less of an issue. Weight and tire width...all factor into the end result.

As I mentioned, I've got a '12 JKU (manual) with 35's and 3.73 gears. I live in Wisconsin. Pretty flat. Rarely use 6th gear on the freeway, and generally can't on hills or in a strong wind, or when trying to pass, without bleeding speed like I'm gutshot. I drove to the East Coast recently, and going through the PA mountains there were even a few times I couldn't get outta 4th. I've added a fair amount of weight to my Jeep with bumpers and other mods, but some of that is offset by the fact that I run a soft top year-round.

With my current setup, pulling an 800-lb boat would be miserable, I suspect.

Here's a thread from a member named Pieface that'll give you a better idea of what I'm talking about, rpm and gear-wise. First page deals with his 2012; second goes into the 3.8L engines. Lots of info there, regardless of your Jeep's engine. If you can parse the bs from the gold, should give you a pretty solid foundation of knowledge to make a decision on what, if anything, you wanna do, in terms of gearing.

Want 35s dont want to REGEAR ??
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:01 PM   #13
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If words cost cash, I'd be flat broke. My man here ^^knows brevity. Nine. Impressive.



^^ True, though disgustingly long-winded compared to the Don. Alabama, you embarrass all of us.

OK wolfman-- so I am short and to the point. Others here would make good politicians!!Haha!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:30 PM   #14
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OK wolfman-- so I am short and to the point. Others here would make good politicians!!Haha!!


It was a compliment...and at the same time a statement on my blabbiness; it might seem like I'd be a good politician, but I'd get tossed out of all parties fairly quickly. I can't abide dissemination, or bullshit in any form.

One of my greatest joys on going freelance was the ability to refuse covering politics; haven't done it since last presidential election, and couldn't be happier.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:14 PM   #15
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It was a compliment....
I took it that way--- just had to see if I could ruffle your feathers!! They don't call me the Instigator for nothing!!
But back to the OP, since I don't drive a '12; I never think about the exhaust problem with a 2 1/2" lift-- ya gotta put in a spacer!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:50 PM   #16
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The driveshaft on my 2012 with the 2.5" TF coil lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks was resting right on top of the crossover before the exhaust spacer. $50 spacer or a new driveshaft. Take your pick.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:30 PM   #17
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Just installed the OME 2.5" Lift. Still running stock 255/75-17's. This gives you an idea of the clearance.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:34 PM   #18
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Just installed the OME 2.5" Lift. Still running stock 255/75-17's. This gives you an idea of the clearance.
Looks great!
If you don't mind my asking? Will you be going with 35s & why did you pick OME over Rub Express 2.5 or other lift kits?

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