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Old 10-28-2013, 11:08 PM   #1
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When to do first oil change?

Hey guys, so I'm hearing differing opinions on the best time to do my first oil change, and I was looking for some opinions and experiences.

I've heard it's best to dump the oil at 500-1000kms to flush out any metal shavings and assembly lube from the engine, and then today a service manager at Jeep told me the factory uses special oil with additives that treat all the seals and recommended I leave it as long as possible. . I suspect he's full of sh!t but he has me confused because normally the stealership would be trying to push an oil change on me, so i don't know what to think.

Please post up your first oil change experiences please.

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Old 10-29-2013, 12:16 AM   #2
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I am a long time engine builder. When I build an engine, I change oil after the cam break in. On our new, vehicles, I change the first time at 1000 miles.
That includes our new Ford Diesel and our new cars. Then I change the diesel at 5000 miles and the cars at 3000 miles. I have never had an engine failure with these procedures.
I think the additive statement is not accurate.
For flat tappet, high lift cams, you need an break in additive, not needed for roller cams.

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:58 AM   #3
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Best to do first oil & oil filter change at 1,000 or so miles.



In regard to the
2014 Wrangler, 3.6L Pentastar engine:

Chrysler/Jeep Oil filter part number is
68191349AA

(Note: No aftermarket oil filters to replace the
68191349AA are available as of today 10/29/13)

Jeep recommends you use SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, such as MOPAR, Pennzoil, and
Shell Helix.
- 6 quarts when changing oil filter
(5.7 Liters)

24mm oil filter cover removal
13mm socket for drain plug

For Fumoto Oil Drain Valve if you plan on installing same, you want an F106 .

Resetting the change oil indicator:
With the engine off turn the key to the run position but do not start the engine. Depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor 3 times within the first 10 seconds of turning on the key. The change oil indicator should not return until the next interval.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:04 AM   #4
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I just changed mine at 2014 miles, Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic and OEM filter.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney201 View Post
I am a long time engine builder. When I build an engine, I change oil after the cam break in. On our new, vehicles, I change the first time at 1000 miles. That includes our new Ford Diesel and our new cars. Then I change the diesel at 5000 miles and the cars at 3000 miles. I have never had an engine failure with these procedures. I think the additive statement is not accurate. For flat tappet, high lift cams, you need an break in additive, not needed for roller cams.
This is very good info. Real world experience from a fellow member.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:24 AM   #6
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I just changed mine at 2014 miles, Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic and OEM filter.

From what I understand, Mobil 1 no longer meets the Chrysler MS-6395 spec and is not recommended by Chrysler. I've used Mobil 1 for years but will not be using it in my or my son's, 2014 JK's. My guess is Mobil 1 would be just fine to use but I don't want to have an engine warranty issue and have a stealership say I contributed or caused the issue using an oil that did not meet Chrysler MS-6395 specs.

So, I will be using Penzoil Platinum, Advance Full Synthetic Motor Oil.
Will probably use 5W20 but would also use 5W30. Penzoil Platinum is usually less expensive then Mobil 1.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:26 AM   #7
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I mentioned the Fumoto earlier in this thread, so for those not familiar with the valve, here is more in regard to it:

Fumoto Oil Drain Valve:







When installing the Fumoto, use the blue fiber washer that comes with the valve only. Again, just the blue fiber washer that is provided by Fumoto, no crush washer.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:33 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by billarf View Post
From what I understand, Mobil 1 no longer meets the Chrysler MS-6395 spec and is not recommended by Chrysler. I've used Mobil 1 for years but will not be using it in my or my son's, 2014 JK's. My guess is Mobil 1 would be just fine to use but I don't want to have an engine warranty issue and have a stealership say I contributed or caused the issue using an oil that did not meet Chrysler MS-6395 specs.

So, I will be using Penzoil Platinum, Advance Full Synthetic Motor Oil.
Will probably use 5W20 but would also use 5W30. Penzoil Platinum is usually less expensive then Mobil 1.
I find it strange that Mobil 1 is good for some of the fastest most powerful cars on the planet but not a wrangler? I wonder what part doesn't meet their specs.

NVM I found it

Question: Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?-- Josh Eads, Cabot, ARAnswer: Chrysler’s latest revision to the MS-6395 specification calls for a field trial spanning multiple seasons over two years. While we fully expect the exceptional performance of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to meet Chrysler’s specification requirements, at this time we are in the process of evaluating our timeline to start this testing.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:39 AM   #9
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I am using Mobil 1 in mine. Straight from the Mobil 1 site:

Quote:

Question:
Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395
Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?
-- Josh Eads, Cabot, AR

Answer:
Chryslerís latest revision to the MS-6395 specification calls for a field trial spanning multiple seasons over two years. While we fully expect the exceptional performance of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to meet Chryslerís specification requirements, at this time we are in the process of evaluating our timeline to start this testing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by machz View Post
I find it strange that Mobil 1 is good for some of the fastest most powerful cars on the planet but not a wrangler? I wonder what part doesn't meet their specs.

NVM I found it

Question: Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?-- Josh Eads, Cabot, ARAnswer: Chryslerís latest revision to the MS-6395 specification calls for a field trial spanning multiple seasons over two years. While we fully expect the exceptional performance of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to meet Chryslerís specification requirements, at this time we are in the process of evaluating our timeline to start this testing.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:43 AM   #10
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I'm guessing this is the one I want to run a hose ?

Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:54 AM   #11
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I'm guessing this is the one I want to run a hose ?

Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive


The F106N has a nipple that is 14mm-1.5 inches long. Some do worry about ground clearance with the nipple. Fumoto cautions about ground clearance with the N. Many would probably recommend you with the F106 that has no nipple or the Fumoto F106S. I bought the Fumoto F106S. The F106S S-Type Oil Drain Valve has very short nipple (5mm or 0.2 inches) which still allows you to attach a hose to it for convenient draining. One place to View or buy is here: http://www.qwikvalve.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1

Note: If you desire a "safety clip" you can get the 5/8" clip at The Home Depot / hardware store for less then a buck. In over 12 years of using Fumoto's I have never used a clip. The Fumoto locking mechanism is very good. Of course the clip really locks it.

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:02 AM   #12
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For those commenting on my earlier Mobil 1 post. I only threw out the fact that Chrysler says Mobil 1 does not meet it's MS-6395 spec. For this reason and this reason only, I personally will avoid Mobil 1 until it does reach spec. Mobil 1 is an excellent oil, but again, I am not going to give a stealership/Chrysler any excuse to hassle me on engine warranty work. Just not worth the hassle. Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic is the way I will go for now.

Also, I do not get into discussions on oil, etc. so no further comment on this by me. 8-)
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:04 AM   #13
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O NO, another oil thread!
For what its worth dealer told me first change at 5k and every 5k after that and if you believe the paperwork they put Mobil 1 in for the first change.
For what its worth i did some BAD things to my old honda civic, got to the point where it was burning / leaking oil and so i just keep adding, never changed the filter or anything and it did about 70k like that before i sold it still running strong at 150k (it was a pos car which is odd for honda but whatever, different story). I dont think the new engines / oil tech is as sensitive as it use to be why you get so many different ideas. I agree with the idea that you change the oil when it needs it based on tests BUT i'm far to lazy keep track of things like that, 5k, new oil, moving on.
good luck.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:17 AM   #14
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The F106N has a nipple that is 14mm-1.5 inches long. Some do worry about ground clearance with the nipple. Fumoto cautions about ground clearance with the N. Many would probably recommend you with the F106 that has no nipple or the Fumoto F106S. I bought the Fumoto F106S. The F106S S-Type Oil Drain Valve has very short nipple (5mm or 0.2 inches) which still allows you to attach a hose to it for convenient draining. One place to View or buy is here: Search results :: Qwik Valve

Note: If you desire a "safety clip" you can get the 5/8" clip at The Home Depot / hardware store for less then a buck. In over 12 years of using Fumoto's I have never used a clip. The Fumoto locking mechanism is very good. Of course the clip really locks it.

Great thanks for the info
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #15
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:01 AM   #16
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Everyone has their own opinion when to do it. I'm more in line with mooney. I did the first at 1,500 and the second at 3,000. Since I change it twice per year regardless (3.8) I don't use synthetic.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:12 AM   #17
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We had ours changed initially at 1,000 miles. We will be having it changed every 3 months. That will probably work out to around every 2,000 miles between changes.

The dealer is paying for it, not us.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:45 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the good info guys!

One thing I am still a bit curious about is the "break in additive".. Anyone else have any further info on this?
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:59 AM   #19
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First oil change on 2014 Wrangler

I plan on changing my oil this week. I have about 280 miles on my 2014. Using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Then another oil change at 1000 miles with Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance. Then change oil ever 5000 miles along with a tire rotation. I recently picked up 2 original filters from my local dealership for about $7. each.

I don't understand why Mobil 1 is not Chrysler certified. Since it is has been tested in the artic, Las Vegas taxi cab, and is the most used oil in Nascar.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:02 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=nyte289;7554113]I plan on changing my oil this week. I have about 280 miles on my 2014. Using Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30. Then another oil change at 1000 miles with Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance. Then change oil ever 5000 miles along with a tire rotation. I recently picked up 2 original filters from my local dealership for about $7. each.

I believe it's better to run conventional for first few thousand miles, then switch. I hear it allows for better break in.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:04 AM   #21
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Does anyone with a 14 see the oil change intervals they recommend? Mine says every 10,000 which I think is a bit much
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:11 AM   #22
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Does anyone with a 14 see the oil change intervals they recommend? Mine says every 10,000 which I think is a bit much
I'm pretty sure my manual says 8K, but you can use the on board oil reminder. I think the manual says under no circumstances go over 10K.

No - I consider mine in the heavier duty class since I tend to have shorter trips and off road. So I don't wait that long (i'm too old school I suppose). So I just do every 5k and rotate tires then too. I use conventional oil and either do it myself or get the 4 pack from dealer at $17.00 each (pretty cheap). The 4 pack deal requires you to do them all within 12 months and no way I'll get even 20K in 12 months - so I just do them early.
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:28 AM   #23
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I'm pretty sure my manual says 8K, but you can use the on board oil reminder. I think the manual says under no circumstances go over 10K.

No - I consider mine in the heavier duty class since I tend to have shorter trips and off road. So I don't wait that long (i'm too old school I suppose). So I just do every 5k and rotate tires then too. I use conventional oil and either do it myself or get the 4 pack from dealer at $17.00 each (pretty cheap). The 4 pack deal requires you to do them all within 12 months and no way I'll get even 20K in 12 months - so I just do them early.
Oh that's a pretty good deal I'll have to see if my local stealership has the same thing. At that price it's not even worth it trying to do it myself.

As far as 10,000 I haven't actually loaded up the manual (with the included disk) but they gave me a printout of the maintenance schedule which basically says to bring it in every 10,000. I have a real short drive to work everyday so I'll be doing the same thing you do.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:50 AM   #24
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I did my first change at 5k miles, then every 6 mos afterwards (5-6k miles)

I've gone over 10k on my Yukon for oil changes and it has no issues at 160k miles. My Yukon isn't just a grocery getter either. Made several trips from NOLA to ATL pulling heavy loads

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Old 01-20-2014, 09:06 AM   #25
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I have almost 3k miles and I bought it mid September. I should probably get an oil change today. Just out of curiosity why is my mileage so much better now I mean I average 17.5 mpg that's mainly city driving. The first 1k miles was horrible like 13mpg. I'm not complaining just wondering if that's part of the breakin process. I've had my 3.5" lift 35" tires and aftermarket bumpers and winch since 2 weeks after I had purchased it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:16 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billarf View Post
From what I understand, Mobil 1 no longer meets the Chrysler MS-6395 spec and is not recommended by Chrysler. I've used Mobil 1 for years but will not be using it in my or my son's, 2014 JK's. My guess is Mobil 1 would be just fine to use but I don't want to have an engine warranty issue and have a stealership say I contributed or caused the issue using an oil that did not meet Chrysler MS-6395 specs.

So, I will be using Penzoil Platinum, Advance Full Synthetic Motor Oil.
Will probably use 5W20 but would also use 5W30. Penzoil Platinum is usually less expensive then Mobil 1.
I just can't get enough of this story, when Mobil 1 is one of the best synthetic oils on the market.
My Jeep Chrysler dealer Only uses Mobil1 oil in there synthetic oil changes.


I really hate the whole thread if you need to ask when to change your oil you should probable be taking a bus.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mooney201 View Post
On our new, vehicles, I change the first time at 1000 miles.
and the cars at 3000 miles. I have never had an engine failure with these procedures.
I think the additive statement is not accurate.
For flat tappet, high lift cams, you need an break in additive, not needed for roller cams.
X2. Recommend have the dealer do it you can buy a 4 pack and for the price its not worth messing with and they will have a record of it if you have any warranty issues.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:15 AM   #28
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I almost hate to jump into another oil discussion but what the heck. There is no technical reason to do your first oil change before it recommended. A lot of folks do it for peace of mind. I suppose they fear that metal shavings so big you can read part numbers off them are circulating through their engine carried by the oil AND passing though the filter. Sorry that's not reality unless there is something wrong with your brand new engine. Now that can happen so if you want to do something to give you a little comfort with your new engine pull the filter. It doesn't get much easier than the 3.6 and inspecting the cartridge is cave man simple. Look for excess material. The first oil change I did on my JK had very little material. Maybe 5 or 6 tiny bits. Nothing shiny or magnetic. That was at 5000 miles. Now if I'd found a lot of trash or worse yet real metal that would have been different. With trash I'd have pulled the new filter 1000 miles later to see if it stopped. If it was metal I'd have reinstalled the filter and headed to the dealer and made it their problem. My point is throwing away clean oil really make little sense. Do filter inspections if you want to see if something bad is going on.
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:16 PM   #29
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Do filter inspections if you want to see if something bad is going on.
This is why I do my initial oil change early:

Synthetic vs conventional oil (not what you think)
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:23 PM   #30
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My point is throwing away clean oil really make little sense.

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