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Old 02-09-2013, 08:39 PM   #1
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Why are lift kits so confusing!

So I was thinking it would be nice to get a 3 or 3.5in lift for my jk. After researching, im more confused than I thought I would be.
It seems like everybody says the full kits are no good for some reason or another, so is it better to buy all the parts individually?
The only thing I have figured out is you want good shocks and good springs. what other parts will I have to buy, and recommended parts? Are there any good kits that include everything?
It seems like adjustable shocks are the way to go? What advise do fellow jeepers have?

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Old 02-09-2013, 08:49 PM   #2
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What size tires do you want to run an what kind of wheeling if any do you want to do(be completely honest with yourself)

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Old 02-09-2013, 09:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Torfer View Post
It seems like everybody says the full kits are no good for some reason or another, so is it better to buy all the parts individually?
Who says that? There are some great kits out there...TeraFlex, Rock Krawler, OME, Full Traction, AEV, MetalCloak. Take your pick.

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Originally Posted by Torfer View Post
The only thing I have figured out is you want good shocks and good springs.
True. See above. Bilstein, Rancho, Fox...all make good shocks. The springs that come with the good kits are usually adequate.

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Originally Posted by Torfer View Post
what other parts will I have to buy, and recommended parts? Are there any good kits that include everything?
It seems like adjustable shocks are the way to go? What advise do fellow jeepers have?
Be aware, for a 3.5" lift, you're gonna need new driveshafts...eventually. You'll need adj control arms and adj track bars; brake line extensions; possibly high steer components, depending on the lift.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:48 PM   #4
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sticking with 2.5 inches of lift will minimize other suspension components you will need. You will be fine buying the teraflex 2.5 coil lift with some new shocks for 800 bucks and not needing anything else. You can add adjustable control arms and adjustable tracbars, but it would probably be overkill. These are components you can always add later, so you can see if you really need them. I do read a lot of threads stating that front adjustable lower control arms remedy the flighy steering that could sometimes occur with a lift.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:52 PM   #5
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sticking with 2.5 inches of lift will minimize other suspension components you will need. You will be fine buying the teraflex 2.5 coil lift with some new shocks for 800 bucks and not needing anything else. You can add adjustable control arms and adjustable tracbars, but it would probably be overkill. These are components you can always add later, so you can see if you really need them. I do read a lot of threads stating that front adjustable lower control arms remedy the flighy steering that could sometimes occur with a lift.
HIJACK:

Based solely on your avatar, I'll share this: I once shot Jerry at a solo concert at Constitution Hall in D.C. It was, well, memorable.

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Old 02-10-2013, 09:38 AM   #6
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Re: Why are lift kits so confusing!

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HIJACK:

Based solely on your avatar, I'll share this: I once shot Jerry at a solo concert at Constitution Hall in D.C. It was, well, memorable.

If you have no idea what I'm babbling about: ignore...carry on.
What year?

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Old 02-10-2013, 12:28 PM   #7
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What size tires do you want to run an what kind of wheeling if any do you want to do(be completely honest with yourself)
My next tires will be 33s but would like room for 35s in the future. Because this is my DD, I know I will be on the road more than off. But I enjoy the trails, being in hard to get to locations, and a good challenge.

Quote:
Be aware, for a 3.5" lift, you're gonna need new driveshafts...eventually. You'll need adj control arms and adj track bars; brake line extensions; possibly high steer components, depending on the lift.
Will I have this problem with a 3" lift? Also, what is eventually? a couple years, or months?

So, in the long run it sounds like a 2.5" lift is the better way to go?
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:55 PM   #8
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What year?

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God...I wish I could remember, exactly. I'm gonna say 25 years ago? I had a 6.6-liter special edition Trans Am (no mullet, thanks), and actually got stopped for speeding in a D.C. parking lot.

Good times.

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My next tires will be 33s but would like room for 35s in the future. Because this is my DD, I know I will be on the road more than off. But I enjoy the trails, being in hard to get to locations, and a good challenge.
In that case, I'd steer clear of 15" wheels, which can have balancing issues with 35" and larger tires. Doesn't happen to everyone, but if you go with 16s or 17s you'll be better equipped to move up in tire size, IMO.

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Will I have this problem with a 3" lift? Also, what is eventually? a couple years, or months?
Wish I could give you a definitive answer, but I can't. Some folks never have ds issues with lifts 3" and higher; some have em within 6 months of the lift install. As with anything Jeep related, it depends on how you treat your Jeep...

I will say this: I installed a 1310 JE Reel front ds at the same time as my 3" Full Traction lift. The engineers at Full Traction recommended it, and I really didn't wanna take the chance of having my stock ds blow a CV joint in the middle of nowhere.

Could I have waited? Sure. But why be a victim?

Considering that I have a tendency to be hard on my Jeep, I'm glad I made a preemptive strike, in the case of the front shaft.

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So, in the long run it sounds like a 2.5" lift is the better way to go?
My personal opinion...yes. And this is something I wouldn't have said maybe six months ago.

In fact, some of us were just having a discussion on lift height vs hassles, in another thread. Check it out here: Lift Question
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:11 PM   #9
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On my DD I have an OME HD lift, 15" MB72's with 35"KM2's and have no issues. Last year I put on roughly 29k miles. It is sitting right where I want it and love the shoes for both on and off road. I won't change anytime soon if at all. My gears are 3.73 and the only spot I have a little difficulty is going up one mountain near my house. It is on the highway and people always slow down before it. If I get up to 75 by the time I reach the top, some 2 miles later, I am cruising at 67-68. If traffic is being stupid then I am at about 55-60. lol.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:19 PM   #10
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It looks like im leaning towards the Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift... But the 3.5" x factor mid arm system is still tempting
With Bilstein 5100 or rancho rs9000xls
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:21 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Torfer
It looks like im leaning towards the Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift... But the 3.5" x factor mid arm system is still tempting
With Bilstein 5100 or rancho rs9000xls
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:34 PM   #12
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My advice: go with the 2.5", unless you really think the extra 1" of lift is gonna be a factor.

You'll save a ton of $$ and hassle.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:46 PM   #13
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It looks like im leaning towards the Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift... But the 3.5" x factor mid arm system is still tempting
With Bilstein 5100 or rancho rs9000xls
That's the route I just went and love every bit of it. We did the install in my garage with a jack and jack stands. I went with the 315/70/17 Duratracs and got a great deal plus a $40 mail in rebate. The alignment was off a hair and my guy balance the tires almost perfectly. Rides true and quiet too!!! Good luck
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:31 PM   #14
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You could always go with the Rock Krawler 2.5" X-Factor. That's the direction I went and the lift I just ordered. Also went with the Rancho RS9000XL and 315/75R16 Duratracs.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:24 AM   #15
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Reading reviews on the RK lift they all recommend a 4.5 BS. Anyone know if 4.75 will work? That X-Factor lift looks pretty nice. Let me know how you like it and the RS9000XL. Those are the same shocks I am thinking of getting. Moving the rear axle back an inch kinda worries me a little though.
Also, my rubi had the electronic sway bar disconnect is this still going to work properly?
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torfer
Reading reviews on the RK lift they all recommend a 4.5 BS. Anyone know if 4.75 will work? That X-Factor lift looks pretty nice. Let me know how you like it and the RS9000XL. Those are the same shocks I am thinking of getting. Moving the rear axle back an inch kinda worries me a little though.
Also, my rubi had the electronic sway bar disconnect is this still going to work properly?
How much are you looking to spend to achieve ? Wheel travel, looks, ride comfort,
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #17
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My advice: go with the 2.5", unless you really think the extra 1" of lift is gonna be a factor.

You'll save a ton of $$ and hassle.
Ditto. I have a 3.5" lift with 305/70/17s. I love it. But if I had to do over I'd probably go with 2.5". A 33"-34" tire will look better (IMO!)- and if you're only doing mild trails you don't need all the extra flex you'd get from a taller lift. A 2.5" lift avoids a number of geometry issues (caster, driveshaft mainly) like someone already mentioned. While I am okay on all fronts for now- I expect the driveshafts will have to be replaced at some point. No need to worry about it if you have a 2.5" lift. You'll probably spend less to start- and theoretically spend less down the road too. '
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #18
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Ditto. I have a 3.5" lift with 305/70/17s. I love it. But if I had to do over I'd probably go with 2.5". A 33"-34" tire will look better (IMO!)- and if you're only doing mild trails you don't need all the extra flex you'd get from a taller lift. A 2.5" lift avoids a number of geometry issues (caster, driveshaft mainly) like someone already mentioned. While I am okay on all fronts for now- I expect the driveshafts will have to be replaced at some point. No need to worry about it if you have a 2.5" lift. You'll probably spend less to start- and theoretically spend less down the road too. '
^^ Wise advice.

The only thing I'd do over again with my build is go with a 2.5" lift, for the very reasons JeepHerz listed above. Don't get me wrong, I have no issues with my Full Traction lift, performance-wise, but the 2.5" would've saved me a ton of cash and, quite frankly, would look better. At least IMO.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:28 PM   #19
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Trofer,

I before you jump into mix-n-match, full kits and start throwing money at a system your not fully understanding, I HIGHLY recommend that you take a day or so to read thru ALL 27 pages of this thread. MetalCloak Suspension Build - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

it really explains the different springs, shocks, how things work and will allow you to figure out what YOU want to build for your needs.

33' tires is about what is on your jeep now with no lift. you can go 35" tires with no lift and a fender trim or flat fenders http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/35s...im-207931.html

or 37" tires no lift and Metal Cloak fenders.

read the threads, figure out what your needs are and let us know and we will be happy to give you another 50 opions
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:35 PM   #20
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I went with the AEV 2.5" and am very happy with it. Rides great and handles better. It's a Jeep so I didn't expect a caddy ride quality, but I got a nice, smooth ride on road and off. It would be even better I'm sure if I ran more weight since it was designed around heavy bumpers and winches. I'm only running a PS Brawler Lite in front and TF tire carrier in rear. I will probably add a rear bumper and some Rubi rails which won't add much weight. I gained more than 2.5", but have no problems with vibes or the DS.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:09 PM   #21
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If I did one of these "Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift" on my Rubicon would my Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect still work??
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #22
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It looks like im leaning towards the Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift... But the 3.5" x factor mid arm system is still tempting
With Bilstein 5100 or rancho rs9000xls
Great choices! Can't go wrong with any of the above...
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:05 PM   #23
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If I did one of these "Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift" on my Rubicon would my Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect still work??
Yes. However, the MT kit also adds a manual pin disconnect method that you would want to use when fully flexing the system out all day.

It will be up to you to decide when to use each of the two disconnect methods...
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:17 PM   #24
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Cool. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:14 PM   #25
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Thanks Darkfire for the good read. I am about half way through it. Only now, I'm really interested in the MC lift. Its a little out of my price range... But looks like a pretty nice revolutionary product.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:54 PM   #26
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Thanks Darkfire for the good read. I am about half way through it. Only now, I'm really interested in the MC lift. Its a little out of my price range... But looks like a pretty nice revolutionary product.
the nice thing is that you build as you go. but it is all about WHAT YOU WANT in a lift! Matson will help you out with what ever questions you have.

as a note I am NOT SELLING their product, I do not have their lift ( wish I did) but I do have their fenders and the costumer service is AWSOME, Matson again is great to deal with.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:25 AM   #27
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Reading reviews on the RK lift they all recommend a 4.5 BS. Anyone know if 4.75 will work? That X-Factor lift looks pretty nice. Let me know how you like it and the RS9000XL. Those are the same shocks I am thinking of getting. Moving the rear axle back an inch kinda worries me a little though.
Also, my rubi had the electronic sway bar disconnect is this still going to work properly?
This is in large part due to how RK designs their control arms. Your stock control arms angle "IN" with a focus on tire clearance. RK chooses to angle their control arms "UP" with a focus on ground clearance. By doing that they sacrifice wheel offset and cause problems when you want to run stock wheels or wheels based on JK's stock geometry like AEV that have an offset of 5.2.
Here is a shot of a RK control arm next to a Metal Cloak one to get an idea of the ground clearance you get...



Metal Cloak takes a stock approach and choose to angle their control arms "IN" instead of up. This retains more of a stock geometry and allows you to run wheels like AEV or anything even up to 5.5 (Lower number, farther out). Here is a shot of the MC arm to get a sense of what I'm talking about...



Ultimately, its up to you and what you need. If you have a wheel you like that can clear the RK arms and think that the slight increase in ground clearance is crucial then go with RK. If you want to prevent sticking your wheels out to far and retain a more stock geometry than MC is a better option.

I have been researching JK suspensions for a while and each company has different philosophies that set them apart from each other. AEV, RK and MC are probably your top 3 and they are all great quality kits with proven customer service. You won't go wrong with any of them. Its now more up to your personal use to determine which kit would work best for you.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:51 PM   #28
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Thanks Matador,

That is a great picture explaining the difference. I think I am going to have to call MC, I am very interesting in there lifts after a lot of reading. I just wish there was more reviews on longevity and whatnots. Sounds like it has a nice on road feel (which my Jeep sees more of) with excellent flex... ug so many choices.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #29
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Thanks Matador,

That is a great picture explaining the difference. I think I am going to have to call MC, I am very interesting in there lifts after a lot of reading. I just wish there was more reviews on longevity and whatnots. Sounds like it has a nice on road feel (which my Jeep sees more of) with excellent flex... ug so many choices.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/members/matador-69130.html
Unfortunately they are new and no one will know about their longevity so it's a risk when compared to RK but I believe in their design ideas and I'm going to take the risk. Their kit has been in testing for over 2 years so far and they say it looks like new. I think thats why they haven't been able to lock down their warranty, they don't know how long their parts will last under hard conditions and their breaking point.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:05 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Torfer
Reading reviews on the RK lift they all recommend a 4.5 BS. Anyone know if 4.75 will work? That X-Factor lift looks pretty nice. Let me know how you like it and the RS9000XL. Those are the same shocks I am thinking of getting. Moving the rear axle back an inch kinda worries me a little though.
Also, my rubi had the electronic sway bar disconnect is this still going to work properly?
I just talked to Rock Krawler about this the other day, because I want to get the Rugged Ridge wheels (which are 4.75) to go with my 2.5" max travel, and they told me they would be fine.

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